Surfing Tips for Beginners and Experienced Surfers

Different Types of Surf Breaks | A Comprehensive Guide

November 9, 2022by Dan Harmon

Surfing allows you to be in a deep relationship with the ocean and the land that meets up with the sea. This relationship makes you understand that no two waves are alike and how the same goes for how every wave is produced. Looking from a distance, it might seem like the waves all behave and are formed the same. But, looking a little closer and going in and under the surface, you will understand how waves come to be a few different ways. Surf breaks are permanent obstruction that causes waves to break. This obstruction forms barreling waves or other waves that can be surfed before it sooner or later collapses. This article introduces you to the different types of surf breaks and what makes each one unique. Types of Surf Breaks Explained There are about a dozen different types of surf breaks. Some are permanent, and some are semi-permanent. But, in surfing, three main types produce the style of wave that riders can surf on. These three surf breaks are what we’ll break down in this guide. The Beach Break A beach break comes to pass where waves break on a usually sandy bed. One of the perfect examples of a beach break is the classic Hossegor Beach in southern France. This spot is famous for waves of up to 20ft. This surf spot where waves break over sand is the most common lineup for surfers. It delivers mellow waves for beginners to learn to surf while offering powerful waves and pounding shore breaks for advanced riders. A beach break’s peak continuously moves from one week to another as the sandbars shift around the ocean floor. This movement happens from one side to another, causing an effect on the currents, swells, and tides. This shifting causes the constant change of waves. One day you could be surfing perfect peeling lefts, and the next day be surfing close-out waves in the exact same spot. Today, the surf break could be in one place, and in two days, it could be a hundred yards down the shoreline. Paddling out on a beach break is usually more challenging as there isn’t always a clearly defined channel through which waves are not breaking. This is the same when trying to figure out where to sit in the lineup. On the other hand, this type of surf break is safer than others because the sand bottom sits relatively a minor threat, and rip currents are less predictable and often more substantial. These are often considered softer options than their rock-bottomed counterparts. It can be rare to find a beach break that offers very long rides. This is why they are often characterized as average waves and closeouts when in reality, they can be excellent for both beginners and advanced riders. 10 Best Beach Breaks Black’s Beach (San Diego, CA) Hossegor (Hossegor, France) Puerto Escondido (Mexico) Ocean Beach (San Francisco, CA) Martha Lavinia (Australia) Fernando de Noronha (Brazil) Outer Banks (North Carolina) Bay of Plenty (New Zealand) Supertubos (Peniche, Portugal) Duranbah (Tweed Heads, Australia) The Point Break The place where waves hit a point of land or rocks jutting out from the coastline is the point break. This type of surf break was named after the Swayze/Reeves film entitled “Point Break.” One of the most famous examples of point breaks is Bells Beach in Australia. What makes it a point break? A point break is a phenomenon. It is when lines of swell hit a stretch of land at a sloping or even oblique angle. This breaks along and around the ground instead of directly towards it. This makes them more likely to form alongside a headland, then break over sand or rock. The good thing about it is that its resultant waves generally peel for far longer than the other types of surf breaks like a beach break. The long and racy rides it offers are best for advanced riders but aren’t advisable for first-timers and beginners. Paddling out at a point break is pretty easy as you can always move around the breaking wave. Also, point breaks usually have only one take-off point and travel in one direction. This means that you may have to get in line and wait your turn to catch a wave. Quality over quantity is what point breaks are all about since the length of the waves makes it worth all the paddling. So much that intermediate and advanced surfers prefer point breaks as they can be great places for riders to perfect tricks and improve style. This type of surf break is also a test of a surfer’s ability to “read” a wave’s pace, including how to link numerous turns together with the proper flow and precision. Pro surfers Fanning and Parkinson reared on the long right-handers of Australia’s Gold Coast, making them point break virtuosos. There aren’t a lot of high-quality point breaks in the UK and Ireland regions. But, there are certainly a few ones worth traveling to outside of their territories. 10 Best Point Breaks Jeffrey’s Bay (South Africa) Kandooma (Maldives) Burleigh Heads & The Superbank (Gold Coast, Australia) Scorpion Bay (Baja California, Mexico) Oaxaca (Mexico) Chicama (Peru) Rincon and Malibu (California) Mundaka (Spain) Lafitenia (St. Jean de Luz, France) Ribeira d’Ilhas (Ericeira, Portugal) The Reef Break The Cloudbreak in Fiji and Jaws in Maui are the perfect examples of reef breaks. As the name suggests, this type of surf break happens when a wave breaks over a coral reef or a rocky seabed. It may occur close to the shore or well offshore from the shoreline. The reef break is often seen as the most demanding break since they are incredibly shallow and may cause unpredictable consequences. Moreover, they are common in tropical surf destinations and often deliver reef passes or deep channels for safe paddling out. This type of surf break usually pumps perfect barreling waves that break in the same spot. Unlike beach break, reef break is not in … Read more

Top 10 Best Surfboards for Intermediate Surfers

August 2, 2022by Luke Morris

Before deciding to buy the best surfboards for intermediate surfers, you should be asking yourself: Am I an intermediate surfer? Go and pick a more experienced surfer who’ll watch you surfing and let him/her observe how your surf level is. This is an excellent way to be more confident in buying the most suitable surfboard that’ll match your skills. Moreover, intermediate surfers are the ones who can paddle out alone while remaining stable on board. They’re already familiar with the wave movements and can move with them. Going beyond the whitewater is typically where an intermediate surfer wants to surf. So, we ask you again, are you an intermediate surfer? Well, this post will only mention surfboards best for intermediate surfers. We include all types of surfboards to fit your needs: fish, wake surf, foam/soft top, fiberglass, and the classic longboard! The Top 10 Best Surfboards for Intermediate Surfers Read through all the boards before making a choice. Let’s get it started! South Bay Board Co. Soft Top Surfboard North Gear Ocean Beach Foamie Surfing Thruster Surfboard BIC Sport DURA-TEC Surfboard Wavestorm 8′ Classic Surfboard Wave Bandit Shred Sled 48” Twin Surfboard BIC Sport G-Board EVO Soft Surfboard StormBlade Longboard Surfboard South Bay Board Co. Tortuga Longboard Grande Juguete 6′ Surfboard Wave Bandit Ben Gravy Performer Surfboard 1. South Bay Board Co. Soft Top Surfboard If you’re an intermediate surfer, perhaps the South Bay Board Co lineup of soft-top surfboards is right for you. These surfboards are for the casual surfer. It is an all-inclusive package that comes with surfboard fins, fin screws, a leash plug crew, and a surfboard leash. You can return the product within 30 days if you aren’t satisfied with its performance. These surfboard series include three models such as the 7′ Ruccus, 8′ Verve, and 8’8 Heritage Surfboard. Ruccus surfboard is ideal for kids as well as for experienced surfers weighing up to 170 pounds. The other models are suitable for older kids and adults who can perform faster paddling. The weight capacity is 200 and 230 pounds, respectively. Its top deck is built with IXPE foam resulting in croc skin texture for better balance and control. The diamond weave slick HDPE on the bottom section enhances your surfing speed for a more thrilling ride. 2. North Gear Ocean Beach Foamie Surfing Thruster Surfboard Are you looking for a cheaper surfboard that can satisfy your surfing level? This 6-foot Ocean Beach Foamie Surfing Thruster Surfboard might be the most low-priced board on the list. Each part of the board is carefully inspected to ensure its quality. A quality product within your budget is indeed possible with North Gear. Due to the careful assembly done by the company, the board became robust and resilient to ocean waves. Its deck, core, and hard-slick bottom are designed with expanded polyethylene, expanded polystyrene, and polypropylene, accordingly. Therefore, the board isn’t just sturdy but also durable that could last for years of surfing. Also, it is a cost-effective product. It freely includes removable fins, a leash, and a traction pad for a more enjoyable surfing experience than ever before. The maximum weight it can carry is 100 kilograms. 3. BIC Sport DURA-TEC Surfboard Are you familiar with the BIC ballpoint pen? BIC brand is now entering sports marketing; thus they’re producing surfing products for quite some time. The fact is, year after year, BIC is one of the manufacturers of surfboards that creates the best-shaped boards around the globe. BIC Sport DURA-TEC Surfboard is suitable for both learners and intermediate surfers because of its shape design. Additionally, it is the top choice under the BIC Sports brand. BIC Sport DURA-TEC is in a collective form meaning there are many surfboard models under the series. It includes 5’10 Fish, 6’7 Shortboard, 7’3 Mini Malibu, 8’4 Egg, and 9’4 Magnum. And other models such as the Mini Nose Rider and Natural Surf 2. These boards have nearly the same features to offer. They’re all made of high-density core foam and an outer polyethylene shell for the easy wave-riding experience. Further, board construction is also bulletproof. For added control and comfort, there’s now an integrated 3D traction pad. Other accessories included are a thruster tri-fin setup and inside foil technology. 4. Wavestorm 8′ Classic Surfboard This is another surfboard product made by Wavestorm. It is almost the same as the Brushed Graphic Longboard aside from its UV-resistant design. Its colorful stripes design will not quickly fade even though UV rays frequently strike it. That’s why everyone likes the board because of its upkeep appearance. Thanks to Graphic Film Technology for making this possible. Those who are starting to learn how to surf can depend on this board because of its lightweight construction. It is incredible because you can jump on using an intermediate level surfboard during the training so that no more considerable adjustments to be done to the actual competition. There’s a removable ankle leash in case you want to show more daring surfing exhibitions. Or, in other words, remove the leash when you feel your surfing skill is leveling up. It is made of HDPE material which adds stability and durability to the entire board while surfing. Going through stronger waves is never a challenge with Wavestorm Classic Surfboard. The board can be conveniently held as it is equipped with durable extruded polystyrene and a three marine-ply stringers system. Are you a bit clumsy? The EBS cross-link located on the deck and rails can handle your clumsiness and enhances your stability. 5. Wave Bandit Shred Sled 48” Twin Surfboard When we say California, the first thing that enters our mind is the best surfers in the world. Look around that beautiful city, and you’ll find surfers all day long. With that factor, we can conclude that the best surfboards are also produced in the said country. Well, we are correct as Wave Bandit Shred Sled 48 Twin Surfboard is designed in California. Surfing on smaller waves is where this board … Read more

Why Do You Wax A Surfboard?

January 6, 2022by Luke Morris

If you’ve just bought a new surfboard, the last thing you want to do is smear some gunky wax all over it and “ruin” its gleaming, smooth surface. But, unless you bought the board solely for display purposes, you’ll have to do precisely that. So, why do you wax a surfboard? Is it really necessary to smear its smooth surface with wax? Yes, it is essential to wax your surfboard. A surfboard isn’t all you need in surfing but waves and wax, too. The wax on your board determines whether you have a good session or a bad one. Read along to understand the need to wax your surfboard. This article explains everything about the wax’s relation to your surfboard and what it does to your performance. Why Do You Wax A Surfboard? When wet, surfboards are slippery. The most significant way to ensure that you don’t slip off your board in varied water temperatures is to apply wax to your board. The texture of a soft top’s deck changes when exposed to cold and warm water. Applying a layer of wax to your board can help you maintain a higher level of traction in all conditions. In short, nothing holds you to the board save a small layer of wax for grip. How Is A Wax For Surfboard Made? Paraffin, beeswax, and other hard waxes are used to make surf wax. Every company has its own top-secret, sticky formula. Because the major component – paraffin – is produced from oil, which is not the most environmentally friendly product, natural substitutes such as beeswax, vegetable oils, pine resin, soy, and others are now being employed. Are There Different Types of Wax For Different Temperatures? Yes. Waxes naturally tend to become soft at higher temperatures and hard at lower temperatures. That is why different waxes are required for different temperatures. Each wax has the perfect hardness/tackiness point at a different temperature range. A higher-temperature surf wax is required for surfers who live in more tropical locations (such as Hawaii or Australia). In different environments, surf wax is necessary for individuals surfing in cooler climes. Let’s have a look at the various temperatures so you’ll be prepared when the time comes. Cold Water Wax If you plan on surfing in temps of 60 degrees or lower (don’t forget to wear a wetsuit), cold-water wax is recommended. This is meant to keep your board in the best possible condition, even when the weather drops below freezing. Keep this wax in a cool, dry place to prevent it from melting in hot weather. It’s also vital to avoid using it in hotter or tropical locations because it won’t be able to endure the heat. The majority of surf brands provide their popular selections in various temperatures. This implies you won’t have to swap brands to get a good product at a different temperature. If you live in a colder climate, your local store will most likely have the right product; similarly, if you live in a tropical environment, you’ll most likely discover tropical and warm wax. Cool Water Wax Cool surf wax is suitable for water temperatures ranging from 58 to 68 degrees. Cool Water Wax mixtures perform well in cooler conditions to retain grip and traction, but they won’t hold up as well when the weather warms up. Warm Water Wax Warm water wax is required for water temperatures ranging from 58 to 75 degrees. Because these are less resistant to high temperatures, following the manufacturer’s instructions is critical for maximum board traction. Tropical Water Wax If you plan on surfing in waters that are 75 degrees or above, you’ll need a tropical surf wax to preserve your board traction. These are made to resist higher temperatures, so they won’t melt when it becomes too hot outside or when exposed to direct sunshine. In addition, these temperatures are often more challenging to work with than other wax temperatures. Wax Application Knowing when and how to apply surf wax is critical to a successful surfing session. For starters, if you don’t apply enough wax, staying upright on your board will be tough, if not impossible. This is especially critical for newcomers who are still learning the ropes. On the other hand, putting too much wax on your board can make it overly slippery. This is essentially a waste of wax because you’ll be right back where you started—except with a dirty board to clean. When To Apply Surf Wax “One board, one wax job,” as the saying goes, which sounds fantastic but in practice probably means getting a new quiver of boards every few months, which we think you don’t. The majority of surfers like to wax their surfboards before each session. Obviously, this will build up to a thick, heavy, grey layer of ungrippy wax that will need to be replaced over time. Whether you have OCD or not, the frequency with which you wax your surfboard will vary, but in general, de-waxing with the change of the seasons (4 times per year) or every time you go on a surf trip should be enough. It’s also worth considering whether a fast combing with a wax comb is preferable to apply more wax. How Far Forward Should You Wax A Surfboard? To catch the front foot on those frontside fin chuck/tail blasts, surfers like John John Florence wax almost all the way to the nose. You won’t be doing many of those in a typical session, but you could want to get forward into small tubes. It’s better to have the wax all the way up to the nose and not need it than to be slipping and sliding away if you need it. Choosing The Best Surf Wax Aside from water temperature, there are a few things you should consider in picking the best surf wax. Here’s all you need to know about surf waxes if you’ve mixed up your base and top coats and don’t know where to start! Basecoat … Read more

What Is a Riptide? | Is It the Same as a Rip Current?

December 31, 2021by Luke Morris

Riptide and rip currents — are two terms that are often used interchangeably by media and beachgoers alike. Although both of them are powerful and dangerous phenomena that lurk beneath the water’s surface, these two are not quite the same thing. A riptide is a strong flow of water within enclosed tidal areas such as harbors and estuaries. It’s caused by a tide that pulls water through an inlet along a lagoon or barrier beach wherein the water flows out to the sea. Oftentimes, people don’t know how severe a riptide is until they get swept away by it hundreds of meters away from the shore. In this post, you’ll learn about the dangers of riptide and rip currents, as well as their differences. We’ll also share with you some safety precautions you can do to avoid being carried away by these death traps. What is a riptide? In June 2021, news broke about a father and child who died after being swept away by a riptide in Apollo Beach Nature Preserve. The man who rescued them was also reported to be missing. Sadly, the rescuers said that it’s unlikely he’ll be found alive. The thing about riptides is that they can’t be seen with the naked eye. You won’t be able to feel anything while you’re being swept away. You’ll look back at the beach and see that you’re already miles away from the shore — and that’s when the panic starts to kick in. Before we discuss more of the risks, you must first understand how riptides are formed. Because of certain confusion with the terms, a riptide is often mistaken as the same as rip currents; however, the former is caused by tidal movements, as opposed to the latter which is caused by wave action. Unlike rip currents, riptide is also predictable as it is influenced by the rise and fall of the water level in the ocean. Riptide is a powerful current that often takes place in coastal regions, but it can also happen in constricted areas such as bays, large lakes, and lagoons. Even if there are no waves, riptides can occur, especially if they’re next to man-made structures like piers and jetties. Coastal engineers refer to riptide as flood jets and tidal jets because of the large amounts of sand it carries. Later on, this sand will form sandbars under the ocean and in the inlet’s channels. Riptide is also characterized by strong offshore currents. If the water flow is stabilized, the water that flows to the ocean is more consistent. The more constricted the flow is, the stronger the riptide will be. This increases the risk of being pulled a thousand feet offshore by the falling tides. When there’s a riptide, no boats sail out because the waters could be life-threatening. Not even the best kinds of swimmers will be able to swim against these currents. That’s why local governments put up signs of warnings in danger zones, but sadly, some people disregard these signs. The riptide in Shinnecock Inlet in New York that extends more than 980 ft (300 meters) offshore is an example of a current you don’t want to be swept away in. Another dangerous place where riptides occur is Australia. Every year, more than 20 people die here because of these dangerous currents. That’s more than the combined total of the victims of other natural calamities such as cyclones and floods in this country. How to Survive a Riptide The natural reaction when you get pulled away by a riptide is to get overwhelmed by panic and fatigue. However, not knowing what to do in this kind of situation may end up in death. In the worst-case scenario that the waters take you offshore, you must remember these things to avoid drowning. To escape and survive the strong currents generated by rip currents, the best thing you can do is to stay afloat as much as you can and keep your head above the water. Let your body flow in the direction where the current is going. It’s better to be swept away far from the shore and live than die trying to swim against it. Wave for help and hope that a lifeguard or a boat will see you. Raise one arm or yell if you can. It’s paramount that you stay calm. Panicking and paddling against the current will only cause you to lose energy. Control your breathing. Refrain from thinking negative thoughts and instead focus on facts. Remember, riptide is a natural hazard, but its currents won’t pull you underwater, unlike undertows. What are rip currents? Warning signs are useless if you don’t know how to differentiate riptides from rip currents, but since news and some people use these terms in similar ways, things can really get confusing. Rip currents are strong, narrow currents that are often found near beaches. They are formed when the waves that are breaking to the shore pile along the beach, then move directly away from the shore by cutting through the breaking waves. They are formed when there’s a depression in the sand that creates a channel underneath where the water flows back out to the ocean. Take a look at the video below to see what rip currents look like when seen from an elevated place. A rip current doesn’t look like what it seems. By observing it from above the water’s surface, a rip current is seen as a darker and calm spot. This is why a lot of swimmers mistake it as the safest area to swim in, when in fact it’s the most dangerous. According to NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), rip currents kill 100 people every year. With a speed that can reach up to 8 meters per second, these currents can take you 100 meters away from the shore in just a manner of minutes. The location of a rip current is unpredictable, which further adds to its long list of dangers. … Read more

What Are Lifeguard Flags? | Understanding Beach Warnings

December 23, 2021by Luke Morris

The beach is an ever-changing and dynamic environment. It might be enjoyable, but it can also be unpredictable and dangerous for those who are unaware of its potential dangers. This is why professional lifeguards who know their way around the beach utilize a system of lifeguard flags and signs to inform visitors about the crucial information they need to know. Understanding lifeguard flags can easily differentiate a lazy and enjoyable afternoon at the beach from a traumatic trip to the emergency room. What are lifeguard flags? Read on to find out what each color means for your day at the beach and more. What Are Lifeguard Flags? Lifeguard Flags have been used by lifeguard agencies in the US and worldwide for decades to inform swimmers of conditions, warn of hazards, mark safer swimming zones, and inform beachgoers about regulated areas. The Worldwide Life Saving Federation produced international warning flag criteria in 2004 to maintain global consistency. The International Standards Organization has partly adopted these rules, and the USLA (United States Lifesaving Association) endorsed them. By adhering to these warning flag rules regularly, lifeguard agencies may guarantee that everyone understands what they mean and improve their effectiveness. These flags are only allowed to be used on beaches when USLA-certified lifeguards are on duty. Flags are not a replacement for adequately trained and equipped rescuers; instead, they are tools to employ around the coast. How Do Lifeguard Flags Work? To be truly effective, the usage of warning flags to alert the public to current hazard levels must be constant, based on objective, measurable criteria that can be registered, tracked, and then adjusted when conditions change. They should be accompanied by initiatives to educate people about the significance of the lifeguard flags. The state of the ocean varies across the United States. In some regions, conditions that are deemed mild may be viewed as a serious safety issue in others. As a result, the USLA recommends that particular local criteria be devised in each location where lifeguard flags are used and that the public be made aware of such measures. Lifeguard Flag Definitions Here are the most common lifeguard flags you may need to understand and heed to keep you safe in the waters and make the most of your beach trip. Yellow Flag The danger level is moderate. There are moderate waves or currents. The entry of weak swimmers into the water is discouraged. Others should be treated with extra caution and attention. Yellow flags indicate that it’s going to be a hard day in the waves, that there are significant waves, or that there’s a small rip current. We encourage adult supervision at all times in yellow flag conditions (or actually any surf conditions). If there are kids, make sure they’re wearing life vests. The most prevalent type of flag seen is the yellow flag. Before swimming in an area with a yellow flag, you should take safety measures. Red Flag There is a significant risk. The presence of a red flag denotes that the surf is particularly hazardous. This could be due to large waves, severe rip currents, or other potentially dangerous situations. Unless you are a really skilled swimmer, you should avoid going into the ocean when the red flag is flying. If you really must go out under red flag circumstances, do not enter the water with children, and always swim with a friend. Finally, this flag means that you should only swim at your own risk, and even then, you should proceed with extreme caution. The red sign indicates a “High hazard,” as defined by the ILSA. Double Red The ILSA describes a red flag above another red flag as “Extremely high hazard. Water is closed to public use.” This flag is only displayed in the most severe surf conditions. In these situations, we strongly advise avoiding entering the sea. At all costs, avoid entering into surf conditions with double red flags. Purple There are marine pests such as jellyfish, stingrays, and other marine species that can cause mild injury in the ocean. It would be best to surf at your own risk with purple flags. Before entering, always check with your lifeguard because marine pests could range from bioluminescent algae to Box Jellyfish. We strongly advise against entering purple flag situations. The sting of a hazardous jellyfish can be lethal. However, note that this flag does not indicate the presence of sharks. Red/Yellow (Halved Red Over Halved Yellow) This flag means Lifeguards are stationed in the vicinity. These flags can be used in pairs to signify a defined area or zone along a beach or waterfront that is most closely overseen or patrolled by qualified lifeguards and where swimming and surfing are allowed. These flags can be used individually to indicate that swimming is permitted in front of the flagged area and that a qualified lifeguard supervises the area. Black/White (Quartered) These lifeguard flags can be used in pairs to identify a specified area or zone along a beach or waterfront for people who use surfboards and other non-powered watercraft. The conditions are ideal for surfing in this area, and the flag warns non-surfers to stay away to keep both surfers and beachgoers safe. Yellow With Central Black Ball This lifeguard flag means non-powered watercraft, such as surfboards, are prohibited. Orange Windsock This cone-shaped lifeguard flag is used to show the direction of offshore winds and that using inflatable objects in the ocean is dangerous. Red/White (Quartered) The quartered red and white lifeguard flag means emergency evacuation is required. In the event of an emergency, swimmers should exit the water. Emergencies can include but are not limited to the presence of dangerous marine species, such as sharks, contaminated water, or lifeguards performing a search of the water area, such as looking for a lost child. (Alternatively, the double red flag could be used.) Safety Tips Supervise Children at All Times It’s critical to keep an eye on kids and young adults at all times. They … Read more

Onshore vs. Offshore Winds | Comparison and Guide

December 20, 2021by Dan Harmon

The rule of onshore vs. offshore winds is simple – if the wind is offshore, it’s blowing from the shore towards the sea, and if it’s onshore, it’s blowing from the sea towards the coast. But what does that mean for surfing? The direction of the wind has a significant impact on the formation of breaking waves. This means that each surf break is unique and has different swell and wind directions that work better than others. However, the basic principles of local wind direction apply to every place you go. This article examines the significance of wind in creating good waves for surfers and the differences between onshore vs. offshore winds and what generates them. Onshore vs. Offshore Winds Winds flowing from land to ocean are known as offshore winds. Surfers seek these winds when deciding when and where to go surfing. The wind blows against the wave’s top, resulting in cleaner conditions and a better likelihood for the wave to form a barrel. Onshore winds, on the other hand, are winds that blow from the water to the land. On the other hand, onshore breezes have the opposite effect, reducing the time it takes for waves to break and allowing fresh waves to build. Onshore winds also aid spilling breakers. How Does Wind Affect Waves? The wind plays an essential function that most surfers are probably unaware of. Of course, windy conditions might ruin an otherwise fantastic surf session, but without the wind, there would be no waves. Wind, in fact, is what causes waves in the first place. This can happen in far-flung regions across the ocean, where strong storms and winds generate ground swells that travel enormous distances and arrive as long-period waves on the coast. This can also happen in more localized gusts, resulting in wind surges that turn into waves on our beaches. Whatever the source of the swell, when it reaches the coast, the local wind conditions play an essential part in determining whether the waves are good for surfing or not. Surfers are mainly concerned with the local winds, specifically onshore vs offshore winds, when analyzing the surf forecast. When it comes down to it, even little variations in wind speed and direction at any given surf break will significantly impact the wave quality. Deeper Look at Offshore Winds When we talk about favorable local wind conditions for surfing, we usually refer to mild offshore winds, defined as winds flowing directly out to sea from the land. A little offshore wind produces ideal “glassy” and smooth wave conditions, which any seasoned surfer craves. Offshore winds also delay the actual breaking of the wave, resulting in waves that only break at a critical point. In return, it provides longer-held and steeply shaped wave faces, making it faster and a better canvas to surf on and eventually breaking more fluidly. These winds, like everything else, are only good up to a point. Strong offshore conditions can cause waves to close out or not break at all, depending on how long they take to break (in the case of smaller waves). Furthermore, because they serve as a force against you and your surfboard, they can make it more difficult for a surfer to really get onto and catch a wave, as well as provide a constant stream of water spray in the eyes. Onshore Winds In Focus Onshore winds, in contrast to offshore winds, are often associated with less-than-ideal surfing conditions. They are broadly characterized as ocean breezes directed from the sea to the land, but they can also be thought of as winds from any direction that is not offshore. Onshore waves conjure up thoughts of choppy, sloppy waves that are difficult to surf suitably and uninviting to surfers. Onshore winds cause waves to break early and in deeper water, making them less steep, less favorable to generating down-the-line speed for a surfboard, and more challenging to ride. It can also cause waves to shatter and reform rather than maintain a surfable wall between sections of the wave. Onshore winds have the ability to create additional short-period “wind waves” that mix in with the better-quality long-period groundswell waves, resulting in unorganized and muddy surf conditions. If there’s a benefit to onshore winds, it’s that they can create waves where there would otherwise be none (due to a lack of other swell sources) and that, in today’s increasingly crowded surf areas, less-than-ideal surf conditions can lead to fewer crowds. What Causes Onshore and Offshore Winds? Local winds along the shore are mainly caused by pressure variations within the atmosphere, which cause air to shift from higher to lower pressure locations. As a result, winds of differing velocities are created, resulting in what we know as an onshore oceanic breeze and offshore land breeze. Simply put, if the air pressure is high and the sky is clear, the land warms up during the day and cools down at night. As a result, the wind will blow from the sea towards the land during the day, while it will blow from the land towards the ocean at night. This consistent local onshore and offshore wind system is observed in warm areas. It’s most noticeable on the western side of continents, where there’s a large landmass with little vegetation or a coastal desert, and where the ocean’s coastal upwelling causes cold surface currents close to the coast. The transition between land and sea is a reasonably regular and predictable pattern that you may take advantage of if you’re aware of and able to spot it. It’s because the water and the land are two separate bodies that absorb the sun’s heat differently and change the temperature at different rates. Since solid heats up and cools down faster than a liquid, the land heats up and cools down daily throughout the hot summer months. All this while the water temperature remains relatively steady, rising steadily over the length of the summer. During the day, the sun warms the … Read more

Surfing 2 Foot Waves | Discover Fun in Knee-High Waves

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Surfers usually discard small waves. We often say, “If it’s small, it’s not worth it.” However, there are several lessons to be gained from the tiniest ripples. But what constitutes a good wave, and how big do waves have to be for you to surf it? Are you able to surf two-foot waves? Even if you prefer bigger waves to smaller waves, you can definitely ride 2 foot waves. Even while 2 foot waves may appear insignificant, they are totally surfable. The truth is, due to the way surfers estimate wave height, what’s considered a two-footer could actually be 3 or 4 feet. For example, it depends on whether the surfer is measuring the wave’s face or rear. This article explains surfing 2 foot waves and everything you need to know about knee-high waves. Can You Surf 2 Foot Waves? As hinted above, 2 foot waves are definitely rideable. Knee-high waves are ideal for beginners to learn on as well as professional surfers to practice on. These waves have less force behind them, making them ideal for improving your paddling skills. While big waves do a lot of the work for you in terms of pulling you onto the wave, little waves need you to paddle much harder. Larger waves require more energy to maintain, so you’ll have to pump harder down the wave. 2 foot waves need different boards than larger waves. Utilizing a larger board, such as a longboard or a foam board, will be more pleasurable. Small surf is more common in most regions than huge surf; therefore, knowing how to ride it is essential. You might not get out much if you’re just waiting for massive swells. Learning to ride different sorts of waves is crucial because practice is a big part of becoming a great surfer. Moreover, not all waves are made equal. Wind, swell, and where the waves break all play a role in generating surf. Wave Height Measurement There are a few options when it comes to determining the height of a wave – Body Measurements, the Hawaiian Scale, the Bascom Method, and the Surfable Wave Method. Which approach you employ is determined by your location or preference. Because there are several methods for measuring wave height, you should be aware of how someone determines wave height when discussing the surf. Body Height Method While not a formal method of measuring waves, it is a well-known and widely used method. Waves are labeled as ankle-high, knee-high, etc., up to overhead and double overhead using the body height approach. It’s not entirely true because all surfers are of various heights, but it’s based on a surfer who stands 6 feet tall. This is arguably the simplest way to describe wave height in an informal situation. Below is the Surfline Surf Height Scale, which implies a surfer on a wave has slightly bent knees. 1’ = ankle-shin high 2’ = knee-thigh high 3’ = waist-belly high 4’ = chest-shoulder high 5’ = head high 6’ = 1 foot overhead 8’ = 3’overhead 10’ = 5′ overhead or Double overhead faces 12’ = Double Overhead+ faces 15’ = Triple Overhead faces 20’ = It’s just massive The Hawaiian Scale Local surfers in Hawaii utilize the rear of the wave to estimate wave height, which is referred to as the Hawaiian scale or the traditional scale. The history of the Hawaiian scale and the conversion process are both hotly argued topics. From trough to crest, the translation from face to Hawaiian is around 1/2 to 2/3 of the original size. However, as the wave’s magnitude increases on the Hawaiian scale, the distance between its face height and its stated height widens. A wave nearly two to three times overhead (12-15’+ wave face), for example, would be 6 to 8 feet high. In addition, this traditional wave measurement is not too popular outside Hawaii. The Bascom Method A US engineer, adventurer, and scientist saw waves differently from how the Hawaiians saw them. Willard Newell Bascom developed the Bascom Method – a widely regarded method that was simple, fair, and rational. In his book “Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface,” he claimed that waves could be measured by standing on the beach and aligning your eyes with the wave crest and horizon. The wave is determined from the crest point to the average sea level. The distance between the trough and the crest of a wave is referred to as the “wave height” in the context of boating. Some surfers believe that the results are exaggerated and overestimated for some reason. The Surfable Wave Method The Surfable Wave Method is a fair and balanced approach based on the area that the surfer actually rides. It’s called Wave Amplitude in nautical terms, and it refers to how far from the top of the water is the undisturbed water surface to the bottom of the sea. This method strikes a balance between the Hawaiian Scale and the Bascom Method. According to the Surfable Wave Face concept, 2/3 of the Bascom Method is where surfers develop their lines and tricks from the bottom-turn and all the way up to the surface of the water. To summarize, a two-meter wave (6.5 feet) measured using the Bascom Method is equivalent to a one-meter wave (3.2 feet) on the Hawaiian Scale and a 1.3-meter wave (4.2 feet) when measured using the Surfable Wave Face measurement technique. Using the Surfable Wave Face approach, it is possible to achieve a wave measuring system for competition surfing that is both accurate while also balancing out the “underestimated” and “overestimated” methods. How To Surf 2 Foot Waves Riding small waves is not easy. But, it is from these 1 to 2 foot waves that we all learn how to surf. Mike Stewart, a nine-time World Champion bodyboarder, said; “You learn more from surfing small waves than you do from riding big waves.” While it isn’t so much fun to drive down to the beach only … Read more

What Are Square Waves — And Why You Should Avoid Them

December 1, 2021by Dan Harmon

The world can be a dangerous place — what may seem like a beautiful and harmless phenomenon could turn out to be a deadly encounter if you’re not careful enough. In the west coast of France, you’ll find Phare des Baleines (Baleines Lighthouse), a famous spot in Île de Ré, a few nautical miles away from the city of La Rochelle, where tourists come to watch square waves or the grids in the ocean surface known for destroying ships and drowning people who get caught inside of them. So what exactly are these square waves and how perilous are they? In this article, we’ll be talking about their risks and how you can keep yourself safe if ever you encounter them. What are square waves? Also referred to as cross-sea, these waves occur when two different swells from opposing directions meet. You see, waves normally travel in parallel and break horizontally on shores, but in rare occasions that a cross-sea happens, the waves collide at right angles instead, forming the unique block pattern that can be seen above the water’s surface. Square waves occur because of varying conditions. For instance, it can happen in places near the coastline where there are two seas or two weather systems that come together in certain periods. Since the seawater from the different conditions intersect but do not mix, cross-seas happen. You’ll see how these grid waves look like in the 0:15 to 0:20 mark of the video below. Risks Ships and small boats in the ocean are at more risk in the event of occurring rogue and square waves. In fact, most accidents happen when there’s a crossing sea or when the wind and sea are almost aligned. According to research, colliding two-dimensional waves can cause the formation of wave packets that are three times more coherent than the amplitude of initial waves. When this happens, freak waves form peaks that can reach up to 10 feet — a dangerous hazard that’s already caused multiple shipwrecks and boat capsizing all over the globe. What about humans? Although this rare phenomenon looks beautiful when seen from above, the danger it poses is located under the water’s surface. In the unfortunate event that you get caught in the middle of a square wave, the riptides will pull you out of the ocean, drag you under the water, and have the currents play ragdoll with you. If you’re lucky, you might get out unscathed. If not, the fatigue of trying to fight off and get out of two different currents will cause you to drown or die. But as scary as it seems, you should know that this anomaly doesn’t last for long. When local winds interfere with these waves, they lose energy as they travel and dissipate just within minutes after they started. When the square waves pattern starts to fade, that’s when you know it’s safe to get back to the sea. Places Where There are Crossing Seas Crossing seas or square waves are the kinds of waves that you don’t want to encounter whenever you’re swimming or surfing. But surprising as it seems, there are still several people who travel to witness this rare occurrence. Since these specific waves are the result of wave refraction and diffractions, they’re mostly seen in coastal regions or inside tiny bays. The most well-known place you can watch these waves is in Île de Ré.; however, you can’t expect to see the square waves a hundred percent of the time. If you want to check them out, you need to check the local reports every day. There are news and articles that claim this small island in France is the only place where cross seas happen, however, this is entirely false. You can also see these square waves in Tel Aviv and in Lisbon, Portugal. In these locations, tourists often fly a drone over the sea or get up a lighthouse to get a bird’s eye view of the waves. Hey, there’s also a chance that you’ve already encountered square waves near the shore, but you just didn’t know it. Shallow square waves are safer because they have less powerful currents, like the ones in the video below for example. Surfing in Square Waves So if crossing seas in the ocean consists of strong currents and waves, is it possible to surf right through them? Okay, calm down, Evel Knievel. Before we continue this discussion further, may we remind you again of how risky it is if you ever get caught up in square waves. Now, in regards to that question — Yes, it’s totally possible to surf square waves (but we highly discourage it). As it happens, there isn’t enough evidence to support that square waves in shallow areas are dangerous for swimmers and surfers. The mainstream media portrays square waves to be highly dangerous and deadly (which is also 100% true); however, less than powerful interacting swells are surfable. According to some, the experience of surfing a square wave is kind of similar to riding a wedging wave. If you’re a pro or advanced rider who’s looking for a new experience or a cool story to impress your peers, then we suggest you think twice before going in. But if you’re a beginner surfer, don’t even think about doing it. Got caught in a square wave? Here’s some bad news — not-so-good swimmers are more likely to drown if they get caught inside square waves. But the good news is, floaters and level-headed people have more chances of surviving it. In a viral photo uploaded on Twitter, a man was photographed swimming inside a square wave, oblivious to the impending danger he was in. According to the post, the lucky guy managed to survive. So how did he do it? If you ever find yourself in the same situation as that guy in the photo, the best thing you can do is to stay calm and keep yourself afloat as much as you can. Getting caught … Read more

What Is Pearling and How To Avoid It

November 7, 2021by Luke Morris

If there is anything that ruins a great wave, it is when you waited, you paddled, and you stood as you caught the wave but tumbled over your board not more than two seconds after. It is when instead of kissing the wind and the mist from the winds, you’re face to face with saltwater. Pearling happens to everyone. They are a pretty common phenomenon for anyone learning how to surf. Pearling also happens to professional surfers from time to time. What is pearling, you ask. Can you avoid it? Find out everything you need to know about pearling and how you can prevent this wipeout from ruining your ride. What Is Pearling? Pearling is one of the most common types of a wipeout in surfing. It happens quite often to people who are learning how to surf. It occurs when the riders make it to the lineup but are not yet ready for a standup wave. It can be a frustrating part of a learner’s journey. After all, it takes a significant amount of effort to paddle and make it to the lineup. Yet, it is there to remind you that you’ve still got a bit to go before you stand up and surf. Pearling or nosedive happens when the front of your surfboard – the nose, dips into the water when you are trying to catch a wave. It results in getting the nose of your surfboard digging into the water and its back launched up. Then, you get launched off your board, smacking the waters and having the wave crash right on top of you. Why Is It Called Pearling? The wipeout’s name takes after the near-ancient art of pearl diving called pearling. It is a dangerous technique that involves pear hunters jumping off a ship and diving about 100 feet in a single breath. The way surfers nosedive during a wipeout is the same way the hunters look when they dive into the ocean looking for pearls. That’s why it is called pearling. How To Avoid Pearling Nosedives don’t immediately mean you’re doing something wrong in surfing. While it can be particularly embarrassing when you think you’ve got a perfect wave and end up pearling, it happens not just to you but to a good population of surfers. Most pearling happens in the early stages of learning how to surf. It can also occur when you are adapting to a new surfboard or when steep and fast waves are miscalculated. Moreover, when a surfer’s weight is too far forward, it can cause the board’s nose to dive underwater. Here are some tips you can try to avoid pearling on your next ride. Remember that as every surfer and wave is different, some suggestions may be more beneficial for some surfers and unalike circumstances. Take what resonates. Leave what doesn’t. Tip #1. Correct your body position The primary point in avoiding a nosedive is paying attention to your body position when paddling on your surfboard. It is essential to be far up on the board to catch a wave. Not too far up to the nose, but just enough to weigh the board down in the right places. You do not want to put the weight in the wrong parts of the surfboard, or you’ll end up going under the water and propelling yourself into pearling. The thing about positioning your weight is true to an extent, but it is only an essential starting point guideline. On smaller wave days, you will need to be as far forward on the board as possible so you can catch anything. Once you catch it and you feel like you’re going to pearl, shift your weight backward. A lot of surfers do this trick and prove it works. Another method you can try instead of shifting backward is to keep your hands back in a cobra position. This posture distributes your weight on your hips. If done correctly, the place on the surfboard that needs more weight to anchor it down will help prevent the nosedive. Take note that these tips may not always work all the time. Since you are shifting your weight back, it puts on the breaks and keeps you from catching the wave at all. These approaches are best used if you really feel you are going to Pearl. Ideally, you have to keep calm and have faith in yourself. Keep paddling to keep the forward momentum. Paddling helps because as the wave peaks and gets steeper, the nose should pop back out of the wave. Tip #2. Paddle! Paddle! Paddle! Another factor that may be causing you to pearl is how you paddle. You may either be paddling too slowly or not enough. When catching a wave, you’re not technically catching it like how a baseball player tries to catch a ball. Baseball players typically run toward the ball then stop and position to let the ball come to them. In terms of the wave, you are more like hopping on the train than catching a ball. See, when you hop on a train, you need to be running as fast as the train so you can grab it and jump on it as it is moving along. With wave catching, you almost want to try to race the waves to the shore and not let them catch you. Therefore, it is crucial to paddle faster and match the speed of the wave. By paddling as fast and as efficiently as possible, you’ll go at a speed where the wave can catch you and lift you instead of stumbling on you and beating you down. Tip #3. Proper Wave Positioning Proper wave positioning is another critical factor you should not overlook. No matter how fast and efficiently you paddle, if you are too far inside, the wave might be too steep and may tumble over you and send you down. On the contrary, when you are far outside, you can catch it when it … Read more

How to Surf a Crowded Lineup: Pro Tips and Tricks

November 6, 2021by Luke Morris

people surfing AT THE BEACH WONDERING HOW TO SURF A CROWDED LINE UP

Gone are the days when we could rock up at our favorite surf break and be one of, if not the only person in the water. With over 20 million surfers worldwide, and a surf population growing at 12% per year, secret spots are slowly becoming less secret, and popular surf breaks are often too crowded to catch a wave. Although it is never ideal when the lineup is full of people, it is often something we need to deal with if we want to catch a ride. By remaining patient, visual, friendly, and willing to put in some extra work, a crowded day does not need to be a bust. Crowded breaks are undeniably annoying, but the following tips will help you better navigate overpopulated surf lineups and make the most out of your day. What Are the Downsides of Surfing in a Crowded Lineup? No one likes to surf in a crowded lineup, and for good reason. Once you have read the downsides of crowds in a surf lineup you will begin to understand why. High Competition Unlike snowboarding or skating where you can constantly ride your board, in the ocean, even when surf conditions are perfect, you still need to wait for a wave to break. Furthermore, in most cases, the rule goes that only one surfer should ride a wave at a time (although there are exceptions to this rule), which makes waves even rarer. Add a bunch of people to the lineup and it is easy to see how a relaxing surf can quickly turn into a fierce competition for the few available waves. Fewer Waves for Time If you are lucky enough to find yourself in a crowd that respects how a surf lineup works, you will be able to avoid the savage competition for the waves, but this comes with a disadvantage. If everyone is waiting their turn, there are five waves per set, and twenty people in the water, it is easy to see how you will be waiting a while for your ride. This can of course be an advantage of its own but is not ideal if you just paddled out for a few quick waves. People in Your Way When there are too many people in a lineup you will constantly find yourself dodging someone. Unless everyone in the water is a good surfer and follows surf etiquette to the tee, you will constantly find people paddling out through the middle of the break, throwing their boards away, or falling off waves at the peak. As you will need to maneuver around them, you will not be able to ride the wave as you wish. This can become frustrating, especially when you have waited so long for your turn. Crowds Are Dangerous Having a few people in the water makes surfing safer as there are people around if something goes wrong. When a few people become a big crowd, the opposite is true. The more surfers there are in a lineup the higher the chance you have of running into someone else. This can, in extreme cases lead to concussions<span style=”font-weight: 400;”>, lacerations, and loss of consciousness, or if you are lucky, a broken or dinged surfboard. In a large crowd, if someone was to lose consciousness it would be a lot harder to notice them missing. Tension in the Water When there are a lot of people in a lineup tensions always seem higher. Everyone is on edge waiting to charge the next set, constantly on the lookout for other surfers, and slightly annoyed that they are not surfing as much as they wish. This, of course, is not always the case but will happen more times than not. Although some lessons can be learned from this, it does take away from the relaxing, nature-immersing experience that surfing can be. Are There Benefits to Surfing a Crowded Lineup? No one will choose to surf a crowded lineup over an empty one because the benefits do not come even close to the downsides, but this is not to say that there can’t be any upsides at all. Teaches You Patience One of the greatest lessons a crowded lineup can teach you is patience. Both for the waves and the people around you. While you wait for your wave, instead of becoming annoyed with the waiting, practice patience, and you will find yourself enjoying the waiting as much as you enjoy the surfing. Teaches You to Work for What You Want Surfing in a crowded lineup means that you cannot simply sit and wait for a wave to come to you, you need to work for it. This lesson, taught through a non-ideal surfing situation, remains true in all aspects of our life and should be contemplated while in and out of the water. Competition Makes You Better Fierce competition can be off-putting, but healthy competition provides an amazing platform for improvement. As you will be fighting for your waves, you will need to surf better than those around you. This will likely mean pushing yourself to the max and learning a thing or two in the process. Teaches You to Deal With Pressure A crowded lineup can become a stressful situation, especially when a set forms further out and breaks on top of the lineup. Although crowds can cause a lot of pressure, learning to deal with this in a somewhat safe environment will begin to prepare you for larger, faster swell and harsher conditions. 15 Tips for Surfing a Crowded Lineup To successfully surf a crowded lineup you need to be prepared for what is to come and pay close attention to details. Finding a balance between respect and fighting for your wave is important. 1. Study the Break You should never go for a surf before you have assessed the waves, currents, weather, and lineup. Doing so can put yourself and others at risk. This is even more important when you will be paddling out into … Read more

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