Surfing Tips for Beginners and Experienced Surfers

How Many Times Per Week Should You Surf?

April 21, 2023by Dan Harmon

It sounds dreamy, right? Surfing all day, every day, tropical paradise, not a care in the world! An endless surf trip. However, such a lifestyle is much more difficult and less fun than it may seem. Surprisingly, there is such a thing as too much surfing. For most of us, surfing is a fun pastime, and it should be exactly that. Still, when surfing starts negatively affecting other areas of your life, such as your career, family, and relationships, you must ask yourself some serious questions. In contrast, feeling like you don’t surf enough and stagnating can also take the fun out of surfing. If you can only surf a handful of times in a month and take one surf trip a year, being able to surf how you want to surf is tricky and frustrating. But whether you wish to improve or just enjoy surfing, there must be a perfect balance. A balance between surfing enough to satisfy your appetite and still having time to thrive in your personal and professional life. This article explores this balance. We dive into all the aspects involved with achieving a healthy relationship with surfing and establishing a surf frequency to suit you. There is no one answer to finding the ideal amount of surfing; it’s all down to you. The Benefits & Risks of Surfing Daily It’s tricky weighing up the benefits and risks of surfing every day. And while surfing all day every day sounds amazing, it takes a massive toll on your body! (Let’s face it, we’re not all John Florence and can’t all surf for ten hours daily). However, surfing as much as possible has both positives and negatives. Benefits Progress The best way to get better at surfing is to surf as much as possible. You can do all the out-of-water training in the world, eat healthily, and watch every surf movie ever made, but unless you’re in the water surfing, there is nothing you can do to 100% replicate surfing. Therefore, progression will be limited. You only have to look at the best surfer you know and see how much time they spend in the water. Chances are the best surfers you know are out there at any chance they get! The more waves you surf, the more you expose yourself to different conditions, familiarise yourself with equipment and gather more surfing/ocean reference points. Everything you notice, whether it be how a wave breaks to where to push through a turn, are all references that build up the more your surf. You’ll develop stronger muscle memory when performing maneuvers through sheer repetition, and the more you surf, the more opportunity you’ll have to practice such maneuvers. Enjoyment Let’s face it, we surfers are a greedy bunch, and the more waves we can catch, the happier we are. We’re all guilty of it, taking waves off inferior surfers, getting “one more” wave, and staying out for another 2 hours; it’s part of our nature! While this may seem selfish, the more water time and barrel vision you can clock up significantly affect surfing enjoyment; just imagine it, two weeks straight of getting barreled every day–euphoria. Risks Injury If you’re not super fit, surfing every day all of a sudden can easily lead to overexertion and injury. You can’t go from sitting at a desk for 8 hours per day to surfing all day and expect your body to say, yep, that’s ok; I feel great! Just think back to your last surf trip; you’ll know first-hand how sore and tired you feel after that first day. Surfing with sore and tight muscles only takes a tweak in an awkward position to blow out a knee or twist an ankle. Being Surfed Out If you’ve ever been on a surf trip for ten days or more, you know how hard it is to surf all day for that long. It doesn’t matter how good the waves are or even how much your surf; surfing for more than 5 hours a day is hard, let alone for consecutive days! Even the world’s best need rest days. Surfing too much can also majorly affect your surf motivation, leading to passing up sessions you would have previously been frothing for. So while this is one of the better surf frequency issues, you can surf too much. And surfing as much as possible (as a long-term goal) isn’t necessarily ideal either. For example, if you got paid to surf, whether creating content (like me) or surfing professionally, going surfing can feel like a full-time job, which is a strange feeling because it’s the best job in the world, right? But if you add finances and pressure to anything, it can feel more of a chore than a fun past time. So how do you do it? How do you strike that perfect balance between surf, rest, family, and your professional life? How do you combine these aspects to achieve a healthy life and a good relationship with surfing? Let’s find out! Surfing for Optimal Progression Whether you’re surfing for enjoyment or progression, there are a few considerations that will affect how much you progress in surfing. Water time, conditions, equipment, and enjoyment are the main ingredients for facilitating surf progression. Water Time I know I said above that getting surfed out can be detrimental to your surfing, but the fact remains the more time yous end surfing, the better you get. However, randomly surfing and repeating the same mistakes and bad habits will stagnate your surfing, resulting in the opposite effect. Instead, you want to combine lots of water time with focused sessions, where you consciously go out and work on specific maneuvers. Add in some video analysis coaching, and you have fast-tracked surf progression. Fitness Knowing your fitness level is massive in finding your optimum amount of surfing. And if you want to improve, it’s in your interest to get fit in and out of the water. If you can’t make … Read more

The Ultimate Guide to Yoga for Surfing

March 31, 2023by Dan Harmon

woman in black tank top and black leggings doing yoga on blue yoga mat on water, yoga for surfing, she is doing yoga to improve surfing

Surfing and yoga are not an unusual duo. You may have noticed yoga & surf retreats all over popular surf travel destinations. While surfing and yoga may seem unrelated, the two have much in common. Taking up yoga for surfing will do wonders for your on-water surf capability, fitness and skills. Consistent yoga will help ease aches and pains from long sessions, increase paddle strength, improve balance, and prevent injuries. Aside from the physical benefits of yoga to your surfing skills, there is the mental side of yoga. Doing yoga helps you focus on your breath, which tends to calm the body making it super useful if you have a wipeout or dive through a wave. The benefits of yoga are numerous, and in this guide, you will understand why surfers do yoga. 8 Best Types of Yoga for Surfing Originating from India, Yoga is an ancient practice that dates back to 3000 BCE. Its practices involve deliberate stillness, balancing, stretching, and breathing periods. The benefits of yoga are widely documented. But does yoga help with surfing? Yes, yoga helps with surfing; regardless of whether you practice it on a paddleboard or dry land, it offers incredible benefits. Here are some types of yoga you can practice improving your surfing performance. 1. Yoga for Surfing: Warrior 1 – Virabhadrasana In yoga, there are different types of warrior poses, but what differentiates them is the alignment of your hips. In warrior 1 or virabhadrasana, your hips are facing front. As such, you will have a deep stretch in your rear leg. With your front leg bent almost at a 90-degree angle, it also helps activate the muscles in your front leg. Also, keep your front knee secure and stable when trying to get in this position. When practicing the warrior 1 positioning, lift your hands to get more into this stretch and ensure your shoulders are relaxed. Generally, this pose is great for surfers to practice as it helps your hip become more flexible and increases your stability. 2. Yoga for Surfing – Warrior 2: Virabhadrasana II Warrior 2 is another great pose; it improves your balance, works up your hips and groin area, and opens up your chest. From a standing position, place a foot in front and a foot behind at about 5 feet apart. And as you bend your legs deep into the front knee, try to keep your knee in line with your big toes. Also, when practicing the warrior 2 pose, raise your arms at shoulder level and relax your neck. Furthermore, engage your lower belly as you drop your pelvis while ensuring your lower back is straight as possible. Repeat this move on both sides and hold it for 10 to 15 seconds. And while you are in this position, lightly inhale and exhale while ensuring your quadriceps are parallel to the ground. 3. Yoga for Surfing: Pigeon Pose – Eka Pada Rajakapotasana The pigeon pose is one of the most challenging pilates for surfers, but it is efficient if you want to open up your hips and get a deeper stretch. This pose targets your hip flexors and is great for increasing mobility, which are excellent features for surfers. In the pigeon pose, the front leg is bent and lying flat on the yoga mat, while the back leg is straight and being you. Your chest should be relaxed but in a proud position. The pigeon pose is a classic yoga position that offers a fantastic stretch for your glute muscles. As a surfer, this pose aids in improving the flexibility of your hip area. If you aren’t very flexible, using blocks for this pose will be nice. 4. Side Plank Pose – Vasisthasana The side plank pose is another incredible pose that will help strengthen your wrist, shoulders, and abs. It also helps with improving your overall balance. To start with this pose, get into a side plank position with one arm on the ground and the other straight up. Keep your shoulders and core activated and engaged as you get in this position. Also, ensure your body is aligned with a neutral neck. When done well, this pose activates your side core muscles and gets a stretch at the same time. This pose is a good combination because you work out every body part and improve core strength. And if you’d like to make this pose more advanced to help your next surf session, lift your upper foot and hold it with your raised hand. 5. Cobra Pose – Bhujangasana The cobra pose is a great way to increase the spine’s flexibility and relieve pain in the lower back. It involves laying on your stomach with your hand next to your cheek. Ensure your legs are at your back and a hip-width distance. In that position, your hands should be pressed down to lift only your upper body from the ground. And as you lift from the ground, spread your shoulders outwards, and your chest held high. This pose looks similar to how you will lay on a surfboard. When in the cobra pose, have your chest up and slightly bend your back while you try to keep length in your lower back so there is no uncomfortable pressure. Compressing your spine and arching in the spine are common, especially after surfing, so this pose is great to practice before and after surfing. 6. Locust Pose – Shalabhasana The locust pose is more like the inverse of the cobra pose. It is the perfect pose for surfers trying to improve their paddling ability. It involves exhaling and lifting your head, upper torso, legs, and arms away from the floor. In the locust pose, you should rest on your belly, front pelvis, and lower ribs. In this position, you must keep your toes touching as you stretch to reach your legs. At first, reaching your leg seems challenging, but with practice, it gets easier. Remember not to spread your legs apart in this … Read more

What Do You Wear Under a Wetsuit?

February 22, 2023by Luke Morris

Perhaps one of the most commonly asked questions among beginners is what do you wear under a wetsuit? It can be confusing to decide if you are supposed to wear anything or go wholly naked underneath. There are different opinions on this matter, but you only need to remember how you have to go with what works for you – whether it means wearing an entire layer of clothing or nothing at all. This article tells you why you need to be layered up inside and what to wear under a wetsuit. What Do You Wear Under a Wetsuit? What you wear under a wetsuit is a matter of your personal preference. You can wear board shorts or a bikini. You can go nothing at all or with your undies. It is up to you. However, most experienced water enthusiasts prefer to wear an item of clothing according to the activity they are participating in. Sport Specific Gear Generally, wetsuits are designed to keep you warm while in the waters without wearing anything unique underneath. Still, sometimes we feel we can do better to keep ourselves cozy and warm from within. Here are what most people do: Surfing and General Watersports A large number of surfers and riders prefer to wear board shorts or swimsuits under the wetsuit. These pieces of clothing are easy, convenient, and flexible. They do not make the wearer feel restricted with the extra layer inside. A rash vest under a wetsuit can add an additional layer of wamth and even protection if the wetsuit seams rub or chafe your skin after a long surfing session. Thermal rash vests are available if the cold water is really an issue in the climate you’re surfing in. Some mind the bunching of board shorts. In such cases, they wear Speedo-style suits or rash undershorts to keep it unnoticeable. Triathlon Open water swimmers usually have a Speedo-style swimsuit under their wetsuit. On the other hand, competitive triathletes wear bike shorts or one-piece tri suits to transition from swimming to biking or vice versa efficiently. Scuba Diving The majority of divers wear a swimsuit underneath their wetsuits. A full-body rash guard or a poly fleece baselayer are practical options for staying warm and protected in cold waters. Full body rashguards make it easy to slide into a think scuba suit. Poly fleece thermals act the same while wicking moisture and keeping you warmer. Why You Should Wear Something Under Your Wetsuit Undergarments offer more insulation and protection. While wetsuits provide warmth and protection from cold waters, adding these extra layers of undergarments will keep the body warmer, whether immersed in or above the water. However, if you struggle with flexibility and feel like your wetsuit limits your movement in the waters, you may consider getting a thinner wetsuit. Be sure to layer up inside for added warmth and insulation. Comfort Some wetsuits can be pretty uncomfortable to wear for extended periods when naked underneath. The inside seams may brush up against your skin and cause chafing. On the contrary, some surfers find underclothing uncomfortable, too. To ease up, wear at least a Speedo (for men) or a two-piece bikini (for women). These should be enough to provide the comfort you need, especially on those intimate parts. Moreover, it makes you more comfortable when you need to take it off in public places. Hygiene Washing your wetsuits guarantees it stays longer and doesn’t stay bad. However, if you wear it naked underneath, the rubber may absorb your body juices and start developing a smell. In addition, it is even more important to wear undergarments if you are renting a wetsuit. You may not be sure just how often the people at the rentals wash their wetsuits before letting them get rented. Other Undergarments You Can Wear Underneath Your Wetsuit Understanding your tolerance to cold waters can help you decide what to wear under your wetsuit. Aside from the pieces of clothing we already mentioned, here are a few more choices; Surf shorts Sleeveless vest Bike style shorts Men briefs Neoprene shorts Underwear Full body jumpsuit Conclusion Generally, what do you wear under a wetsuit is common question, and the answer mostly depends on the activity you are wearing wetsuits for and when you are wearing it. Paddleboarding during mid of February is an excellent reason to wear a full-body jumpsuit within for added warmth and insulation. Surfing in summer doesn’t really require you to put effort into getting it warm inside, however you might want to consider rash/chafe when deciding what to wear under your wetsuit. A two-piece swimsuit or men’s brief should work just fine. FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) Q: What do you wear over a wetsuit? A: In some sports like kayaking, wearing something over a wetsuit can help. This technique is called layering. A quick-dry top under your wetsuit is your base. A long-sleeve base layer or rashguard over the wetsuit adds for more warmth or sun protection. You can also go with something heavier if the air is cool. Related Resources Best Cheap Wetsuits Best Plus Size Wetsuits Best Wetsuits for Women Best Wetsuits for Kids Best Wetsuits for Wakeboarding Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy and passion of surfing and water sports with enthusiasts around the world. With a deep-rooted love for the ocean and a lifelong commitment to riding waves, Luke’s journey as a surfer has inspired him to create a community where like-minded individuals can come together to celebrate their shared passion.

Is Surfline Premium Worth It? | Everything You Need to Know

January 4, 2023by Luke Morris

Do you like watching the waves? In 2019, Surfline released the premium version of their app where you can watch HD live streams of your favorite surf spots on your phone. With this, you don’t need to wake up early in the morning to check the wave swells, only to end up going back home because the water’s flat or too unpredictable. Even when you’re not surfing, you still get to enjoy your favorite pastime. How awesome is that? To be honest, the Surfline Premium had a pretty smooth start — but not until 2020 happened. In this article, we’ll tell you all about it. We’ll also be discussing if the premium version is really worth your investment, along with the features that give it an edge over other forecasting websites. The History of Surfline Before we get into more details, we first want to briefly talk about the history and background of Surfline to help you understand their work and impact on the surfing world. Every day, thousands of surfers all over the United States go to Surfline’s website to check the waves, making it one of the leading forecast websites for fishing, boating, and surfing reports. But did you know that this company goes way back in the history of forecasting wave conditions? In 1985, Surfline started as a hotline number that surfers can call if they wanted to ask for surf reports and expected swell conditions in some of the surfing’s hottest spots. So how did they do it? As technology wasn’t too advanced during that time, the only way they can relay about the swell conditions is by hiring more than 50 surfers to travel and give reports from their location to the main central office of Surfline in Huntington Beach, California. Their first surf forecast ever recorded was from March 26, 1985, and because of its success, the 976-SURF became a trademark number that almost all surfers memorized during that time. In their first month of launching, Surfline received over 6,000 phone calls from surfers all over Southern California. The main highlight of the daily surf forecasts was the report of young surfer (also the current owner of this company) Sean Collins, who had an incredible skill of predicting the arrival of swells. Long after that, the company expanded its long-range forecasts to other states like Northern California, Florida, and Texas. Fast forward to 1995, Surfline.com launched, which offered free surf information through their online service. In 1996, Surfline hosted their first camera streaming of Huntington Beach, which gained them over 500,000 visitors a week. This breakthrough gave them an opportunity to make money from advertisements and membership fees, which they used to expand their research towards the technology that we have today. Surfline Premium Alright, so back to our main topic, folks. When the premium version was released, Surfline loyalists REALLY kicked up a fuss. The most popular surf forecasting website behind MagicSeaweed, CoastalWatch, and BuoyWeather faced a lot of backlash, and it’s mainly because of this — the HD cam that was free before can only be now accessed by premium members only. Let’s rewind things back a little bit. Before, surfers used to watch the waves through the Surfline app for free. See, they had to endure 15 painful seconds of commercials every time just so they could watch a 15-second preview of the wave or surf spot they wanted to check. If they wanted to watch a little longer, then they’d have to watch the ads all over again. Now, the advertisements are a little sacrifice they were all willing to take that time if that means they don’t have to drive several kilometers to check the day’s swells. But now that the everyday glimpse of their favorite spots is gone, some of the surfers who can’t afford to pay the premium membership are forced to check the waves the old-school way — by walking to get to the beach before dawn so that they can alert their friends if the surf’s on or if they should just keep sleeping. How much does Surfline Premium cost? This brings us to our second topic, which is the price you have to pay to get the premium. In its first year, the Surfline Premium’s membership fee per annum is priced at only $69.99, which is a pretty good value considering its features during that time. But in 2020 (in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic), they sent an email to all their customers about a 35% price increase on the membership fee upon its renewal. Others have read the silent notification, while some unfortunate ones just saw that the new price has already been automatically billed to their account. The price gouging caught everyone off-guard, and it really left a bad taste in the people’s mouths. Currently, the Surfline Premium is priced at $95.88 annually or $7.99 monthly, with the account accessible to one user only. So here’s the million-dollar question — Are the new features worth your money? Let’s find out. Premium Features HD Cameras This feature is the most possible reason why surfers will pay the premium cost because there’s no doubt that Surfline has the best camera network amongst all surf forecast websites. Even the app makes it easy to watch the waves in high definition! With over 500 cameras in different surf destinations globally, checking the local tides and breaks from your bed is now made possible. You can also watch the waves from surfing-banned locations during the pandemic and relive those moments when you get to surf on them. Our favorite, of course, is that the live streaming comes without the ads. Watch the video below for some of Surfline’s camera rewind highlights. Long-Range Reports When it comes to surfing forecasts, most websites have a lot of hits and misses, and that’s totally normal. As we all know, nature can be really brutal and unpredictable (especially when you’re on the east coast). That said, any surf reports … Read more

Top 6 Best Places to Surf Without Sharks

January 4, 2023by Luke Morris

One of the biggest worries that cross a surfer’s mind is sharks. These supposed mean, bloodthirsty, killing machines are often seen as the ultimate danger to ocean goers. But this is not entirely true. There are approximately 35 million surfers in the world. If each person only surfed once that year, there is a 0.0003% chance of a shark attack on each person. That being said, no surfer wants to see a big gray fin sticking out the water next to them while they surf, which is why it is best to surf in places such as Madagascar, El Salvador, Chile, Costa Rica, and even Indonesia, all of which report less than 14 shark attacks since 1900 . If you are ready to dive into the world of surfing but the sharks are giving you second thoughts, then this list of the best places to surf without sharks may be the encouragement you need. What Do Sharks Like? Before you know how to avoid sharks it is important to learn what it is that sharks like. Some sharks spend their time in the deep oceanic waters, while others prefer the warmer shallow waters of oceanic shelves and coral reefs. These are known as pelagic sharks, and it is these sharks that surfers come across. Examples of pelagic sharks include the Great White and the Basking shark. Pelagic sharks tend to spend time in the shallows of river mouths or in areas where there is a lot of bacteria in the water. The bacteria and microbes create a feeding ground for smaller sea life, thus attracting bigger fish, and so on. This dark and dirty water also gives the shark an advantage of not being seen, which is why more shark attacks tend to occur in cloudy waters. Some sharks, such as the great white, hunt in areas where there is a steep shelf. This shelf allows them to attack from depths, catching their prey with speed and by surprise. All of that being said, there are approximately 500 species of sharks in the ocean, all of whom have their own habits, habitats, and feeding patterns. 6 Best Places to Surf Without Sharks As the world is filled with shark-free surf destinations it is difficult to name them all. This is why we have taken some of the most popular surf locations worldwide that do not experience many shark attacks. The list below, with data from the shark attack data website, may surprise you, but on the flip side, it may present some new surf locations that had not yet crossed your mind. 1. Indonesia The Indonesian archipelago’s 17,000 islands are home to some of the world’s best waves, with arguably more waves than can be found anywhere else on earth. Located in the warm Indian Ocean, Indonesia has countless dream-like reef breaks, point breaks, and even a few shore breaks. The dry season (April – October) is the best time to find surf in the famous “Indo” but waves can still be found year-round. Last reported shark attack: 2016 Total unprovoked shark attacks since 1900: 14 Best places to surf Dessert Point, Lombok (Advanced). Uluwatu, Bali (Intermediate/ Advanced). Dylan’s Right, Simeulue (Intermediate). Tuba, Bali (Beginner) 2. Costa Rica With consistent surf year-round and a water temperature that averages 80*F (26*C) it is no surprise that Costa Rica has quickly become one of Central America’s most popular surf destinations. Creating a home for world-class surf breaks to beginner beach breaks, no matter what your surfing level is, you will always find a wave to ride. Last reported shark attack: 2011 Total unprovoked shark attacks since 1900: 10 Best places to surf: Playa Naranjo (Witch’s Rock), Santa Rosa National Park, Guanacaste (Intermediate/ Advanced). Playa Negra, Nosara, Guanacaste (Intermediate). Playa Avellanas, Tamarindo, Guanacaste (Beginner/ Intermediate/ Advanced). Playa Grande, Tamarindo, Guanacaste (Beginner/ Intermediate). 3. France France is possibly the heart of surfing in Europe, but with the world-class waves that hit its coast, it is not really a question why. The southwest coast is home to sandbanks that produce powerful barrels which brings the Quicksilver Pro world series to Hossegor each autumn. Last reported shark attack: 2014 Total unprovoked shark attacks since 1900: 8 Best places to surf: La Gravière, Hossegor (Advanced). Anglet, Basque coast (Intermediate). La Torche, Brittany (Beginner/ Intermediate/ Advanced). Hendaye, Basque coast (Beginner). 4. Chile 4,000 miles (6,435 km) of raw Pacific Ocean swell, Chile has often been referred to as the Goofy footers paradise. With smaller waves and warmer water in the north to icy behemoths in the south, the waves in Chile can be surfed all year round. That is if you are willing to face the giants that the winter swell brings in. Last reported shark attack: 1994 Total unprovoked shark attacks since 1900: 7 Best places to surf: Punta de Lobos (Advanced). Totoralillo, Coquimbo (Beginner/ Intermediate/ Advanced). Ritoque, Santiago (Beginner/ Intermediate). La Puntilla, Pichilemu (Beginner). 4. Madagascar Only 740 miles east of Mozambique, Madagascar is a surf paradise like no other. With an open exposure to the Indian Ocean and an incredibly small surf population, you can expect to find world-class breaks and keep them all to yourself. Although traveling in Madagascar can be tricky, and moving between breaks can be a challenge, the isolation and shark-free waters of Madagascar make it the perfect destination for a surf trip. Last reported sark attack: 2010 Total unprovoked shark attacks since 1900: 5 Best places to surf: Concussion Bowls (Advanced or Kamikaze surfers). Ankaninoof (Intermediate). Ambila Lamentsa (Beginner/ Intermediate). Safari Vezo housebreak (Beginner). 5. El Salvador Famous for hosting some of the longest point breaks in South America, El Salvador, although not commonly thought of as a surf destination, will surprise you with its numerous breaks and surprisingly small crowds. The surf areas are separated into La Liberated (the most popular), and “Wild East” which is quickly gaining a name for itself. Last reported shark attack: 1993 Total unprovoked shark attacks since 1900: 2 Best places to surf: … Read more

Surfing 5 Foot Waves | Risks and Tips

January 4, 2023by Luke Morris

I don’t consider 5-foot waves as the biggest waves out there, nor do I think of them as the easiest to surf on. I suppose they’re the transition between ripping and dropping in — and while 5-foot waves do attract a lot of surfers, I know a lot of people who choose to stay away from them because they’re quite treacherous. Right now you might be thinking, “5-foot waves? Pfft… That ain’t much on Tourmaline!” Different surfing spots have various interpretations of wave heights. In some places, 5-foot waves are considered mellow, but in other surfing spots, 5-foot waves can drag you underwater with its rip currents and kill you if you’re not a pro. It’s a complicated topic, but in this article, I’ll teach you everything you need to know about surfing in 5-foot waves including its dangers and some beginner-friendly tips on how you can surf on them. What do 5-foot waves look like? The photo above will give you a ballpark of how high a 5-foot wave is; however, you should know that this scale differs from other surfing locations. Aside from that, they are also known in other terms such as knee, waist, chest, head high, overhead double, and triple. Hold up… that’s not even the end of it. There’s another measurement exclusively known amongst surfers called the Hawaiian or the Haleiwa scale wherein the 1 to 3 ft. overhead in most places is only considered as 3 to 4 ft. waves in Hawaii. In this famous surfing spot, 3-foot waves can easily snap board and break bones, while 5-foot waves mean death — sometimes, literally. There are a couple of reasons why the North Shore peeps have their own wave scale. Back in the days when California, Australia, and Hawaii are the only places famous for surfing, the Hawaiians would often downplay their wave size to the Californian surfers who visit their beach. When these non-local surfers get awestruck by their waves, the Hawaiians will say “Meh, they’re really not that big.” Another reason for this absurd scale is to avoid their lineups and beaches from getting too crowded. The North Shore lifeguards used to announce small wave sizes to limit the number of tourists coming for their surf breaks. And then there’s the ‘surfer modesty’ that plays a minor role in the Haleiwa scale. During the early days of surfing, the pros would try to trivialize their accomplishments by downplaying the sizes of the wave they successfully rode in. Until today, the surfer’s perspective of wave sizes is still stereotyped. If you’re not careful, you are at risk of being called a kook if you mistakenly identify a wave bigger than how the other surfers see it. 5-foot waves vary from spot to spot, and it also depends on different surfers’ perspectives. With that said, you need to rely on your best judgment and abilities to figure out if you can surf big waves as such. Surfing 5-Foot Waves Perhaps the reason why you’re here is you’re a beginner who frequently surfs on low waves and is now up for more challenging rides. You could be searching for tips on how to ride the 5-foot waves. Or you could also be looking for the last straw of hope and motivation to continue chasing such difficult waves. 5-foot waves or bigger are hard to come by. So on days when they occur, beginners stay back to the shore to drink their morning coffee while hardcore surfers finally get in the water to get some stoke on. On these rare occasions, the waves are hollow and barrels are better. There’s also less crowd in the lineup because only a few people are able to ride these waves. Surfing Tips Being a beginner who is about to try surfing on 5-foot waves or higher can be nerve-wracking. But unless you’re 100% fully adapted to surfing smaller waves, I suggest you stick with 1 to 2 feet waves first before making the jump. The sea will let you know when you’re ready — if the water wiped you out and you can’t get back up to your board, take that as a sign to swim back to the shore and surf with smaller waves first. Now, if you’ve tried surfing on a 5-foot wave before, you’d know that dropping in on them is as difficult as catching them. They can go by so fast without even giving you a chance to drop in. So to increase your chances, you need to know how to read waves. Look at the horizon before going into the water. You must position yourself to the part where you think you’ll be able to catch the most waves. Since 5-foot waves move fast and riding down their face needs the right momentum, you don’t have the luxury of time to second guess if you will drop in or back out last minute. If you want to catch that wave, you need to commit to the drop as soon as you see it coming towards you. Don’t back out last minute because it’s dangerous and you may injure other surfers if you lose your board in the event of a wipeout. Determine if the wave is too big for you, and if it is, it’s best to get back to the shore and just sit it out. Being an excellent swimmer and paddler also plays a role because big waves move faster than small ones. If you move slow, then you won’t be able to pop out and drop in at the right moment. Of course, the key to becoming better at paddling is to paddle more, and for smoother pop-outs, do inclined push-ups and practice popping up prone from the floor. Another beginner-friendly tip when it comes to surfing bigger waves is to choose the right size and volume of your surfboard. These will depend on your weight and the location where you’ll be surfing. Also, surfboards with a straight … Read more

Surfing Etiquette: How Not To Be A Kook In The Waters

January 3, 2023by Luke Morris

Yes, even when you are shredding that wave, etiquette should be practiced. It is one of the basic and most important things to learn prior to setting foot in the surfing area. Aside from the rules of this sport, surfing etiquette – the dos and don’ts of surfing are what you should bear in mind too, as you ride. Commandments in Surfing The best thing about surfing is not having to deal with too many regulations. No need to wait for that court to free up from players or wait for a referee to show up before riding. Just get up, paddle, and ride. While there is no governing authority to tell you what to do, it is still rather acceptable to surf and ride by the unspoken or unwritten commandments surfers have to abide by. Observing The Precedence Study and be aware of who has the right of way. Wave priority should be practiced. This is to ensure peace and composure in the surf. Many times you will have to ask, “Your wave or my wave?” To put it simply wave priority is: Farthest out – the rider that is the farthest out. He/she has been waiting for the longest Farthest inside – the surfer that is nearest the peak of the breaking wave First to feet – the rider that is the first to feet or the first one to set foot onto the wave Communication – calling “left” or “right” for waves that are dual-peaking Never split the peak, otherwise, you will end up running into each other and crash. Not Dropping In Nothing brings you into so much trouble with the locals as well as other surfers than cutting in front of other riders who are already up and riding fast. Observing the right of the way keeps you from getting jammed. If someone drops in on you, try to get the attention of the rider. Make a sound. Whistle. Anything to let the other person know you are preparing to catch that wave. Do Not Snake Constantly paddling around a rider to get into the inside position of the wave is impolite. No Hogging of Waves The ocean is vast and wide! Sure you can paddle the farthest out and catch waves quickly every single time, but that is just too b*tchy a move. This will instantly get people annoyed and may start dropping in or worst, snake around you. Share! Say Sorry If by any chance you dropped in, run over, or snaked, without really intending to offend other riders, say sorry. It’s just the basic good manners even toddlers are taught early on in life. Apologizing goes a long way especially in smoothing things over with other riders. Respecting the Locals The locals know every inch of that surfing spot by heart. After all, they are the ones who run and ride the spot every day. They live and breathe in this area. Paddling Out the Right Way This involves not tossing your board or paddling it into other surfer’s path. Paddle out the lineup safely and in no hurry. Paddling out should start by taking a good look at the lineup and deciding where you should be. From there, determine what is the simplest way to get there. If paddling wide is not possible, go for the white water of the wave rather than going to the shoulder. Consider a few things – the best way out, using a rip to help, the route that will not put you into incoming surfers’ path. In short, use a bit of your common sense. Do Not Dive with Head First The ocean floor can brutally hurt you, whether you are surfing over a reef or sand. Your surfboard can help in keeping you against the impact of any falls and protect your head (or your body) in a wipeout situation. Do Not Toss Your Board Always control your board. If you get kicked out or wiped out or you get frustrated, do not throw your board. Surfboards are dangerous arsenals, not just for yourself but for others riding, too. Wear a leash to keep the board from getting ditched. Ride Only the Spots That Match Your Surfing Skills It sure can be exciting to ride that huge wave, but if it is beyond your level of expertise, don’t even think about it. This will only upset other riders if you get in their way. It could also cause a lot of hazards for everyone. Recognize the Break This is often skipped but is actually a crucial step for surfers of any level. Before surfing at a new break, take a moment to watch the waves. Observe where they are breaking, where the channels are often, and the direction of the current or riptide. You may ask other surfers about the spot. Be sure to share what you know with other surfers who have no idea. Help Other Riders Surfing, as fun and exciting, as it is, is dangerous and could even be fatal. No harm in aiding another surfer caught in trouble. You would want other riders to help you out if you are in a bad predicament. Respect the Beach Be sure to be part of the community that guarantees the beach will still be around 50 to 100 years from now. Take care of the surroundings, and do not litter, vandalize, or do anything that will negatively impact the beach. Have Fun Above all else, enjoy the waters! And, while doing that, do not forget to be polite and smile! Your Responsibility As A Surfer Simple. Your responsibility is to know, understand, and practice the surfing commandments by heart. Never ignore surf etiquette signs that are mostly posted around the beach. Conclusion While these commandments aren’t carved in stones just like the 10 that were mentioned in the bible, it should be a piece of common knowledge for every surfer. They are not there for nothing. These etiquettes and manners … Read more

What Is a Swell — And Why Do Surfers Love It?

January 2, 2023by Dan Harmon

Did you know that instead of avoiding heavy storms, surfers get ecstatic before and after they occur? During days as such, the waves and swells are guaranteed to be at their gnarliest! You see, a good surfing session depends on perfect wind and wave conditions. At the crack of dawn, surfers wake up to check the beach, and when consistent swells break perfectly to the shore, they know that the waves are going to be big and rideable all throughout the day. But how do you think they are able to differentiate the swells from the good and the bad? This guide contains all you need to know about swells, including how they happen and when you can expect them to occur. You’ll also learn how to foresee good surf days even without reading surf forecasts. Let’s start! What are swells in the ocean? Waimea Bay, Banzai Pipeline, and Teahupo’o — these three surfing spots have one thing in common and it’s where you can find the biggest swells in the world. In these locations, swells are able to reach a maximum height of 10 to 12 meters (32 to 40 feet). Ocean swells are a group of smooth, long, surface waves created by strong winds. Contrary to what you might think, swells did not come from local winds. Instead, they were generated from weather systems thousands of nautical miles away from the shore where they break. To give you an idea of how swells are formed, imagine yourself holding a stone, and this stone you’ll eventually drop inside a small container filled with water. The stone represents the storm — the bigger it is, the stronger the storm it’s representing. The water, on the other hand, is the ocean. As you drop the stone, you’ll notice that it’ll create ripples as soon as it reaches the water’s surface. The ripples represent the swells that move away from the ‘storm’. That said, ocean swells occur when there’s a tropical depression or storm happening somewhere in North Atlantic or North and South Pacific. As the strong winds blow across the water’s surface, the winds transfer their energy towards the water. This creates crests that form the swells later on. Once these swells are generated, they will be impossible to stop. They will travel for days towards the shore away from the wind that created them. As they move, they perturb the water underneath and interact with the waves and currents. They also pass through and absorb other swells, which then create uniform swell lines. Meanwhile, the long swells are often the result of short wind waves and swells that are generated by stronger winds travelling as a group at the same speed. Because of the combination of the wind and water’s energy, the swells are able to travel miles away from their origin. When these swells reach an island, they bend around it and spread out in between its channels. Once they’re spread out, they dissipate and finally break into the shore. How Big Swells Form There are certain factors that determine the size of a swell — the wind’s speed, its intensity, the uninterrupted distance it covers across the water without changing direction (also known as fetch), and the water depth. The gnarliest swells indicate that a big storm or typhoon had taken place somewhere on the planet. A study shows that swells found in California were created by the severe storms coming from Siberia that travelled across the Pacific Ocean in a northeastern direction. But take note that these swells don’t arrive there the same day the storms occur. In fact, it takes about 10 days for the swells to arrive and break to the shore given that they are 1,000 kilometers away from it. And if the storm has a sustained wind speed of 50 knots that lasts for at least 3 days, it can create the most outrageous swells that are able to reach 50 ft. in height. High-energy swells, on the other hand, peak during the winter season. Accompanying them are strong surges and currents, including cold water. During winter swells, we recommend wearing winter wetsuits that can help regulate your body temperature in low temperatures. Surfing on Swells If you want to make the most out of your surfing sessions, you need to know how to read swells and understand some terminologies. The first things we’re going to discuss are the differences between a groundswell from a wind swell and a swell from a simple wave. When a swell travels, it passes through other swells and absorbs them. As it happens, the combined swells create a more consistent and smoother series of ocean waves. On the other hand, a wave is more of a general term that refers to a moving disturbance in the water. A groundswell is a long-period group of swells that propagate as they travel. An example of groundswells is typhoon swells generated by a depression that’s travelling from east to west. Groundswells don’t lose energy, so they become consistent and powerful by the time they reach the shore. They also have a swell period that lasts 12 seconds or longer, making groundswells an ideal condition for surfers. Meanwhile, wind swells are also referred to as windseas. They are generated from local winds and are commonly found in the Baltic, North, and Mediterranean seas. These swells are short-lived and messy, and because they lose energy as they travel, they only produce weak swells with a wave period of only 10 seconds or below. This is the reason why it’s hard to surf on them. Swell period The swell period is the number of seconds it takes for two successive crests to pass through a definite point such as a buoy or piling. The longer the duration there is in between them, the stronger and larger the wave usually is. Long swell periods travel much faster and harness more energy. Swells as such are found in popular surfing spots like Waimea, where … Read more

What is a Gale Warning?

January 1, 2023by Luke Morris

In the midst of gale warnings, waves towering at 12 feet, and wind speed peaking some scary miles per hour, hardcore surfers pack their boards and put on their winter wetsuits to prepare for the wildest swells they’d surf for the day. Other people might avoid getting near the sea during this time, but for the adrenaline junkies who crave excitement and adventure, it’s the perfect time to jump on and ride the waves. So just what is a gale warning? But as exhilarating as it may seem, surfing in these conditions can become a dangerous scenario that could lead to drowning and death. Surfing in these conditions can be comparable at times to that of a tropical cyclone. The ideal wind speed and force of offshore winds for surfing averages at 20-25 miles per hour depending on location. Any stronger than that will mean a storm warning, hazardous conditions and splashes of sea spray and erratic waves that can be fatal if you’re a beginner who’s not used to this kind of surfing. For this reason, forecast agencies such as the National Weather Service issue an alert known as ‘gale warnings’ to warn certain areas of occurring and potential gale winds with speed that averages from 34 to 47 knots. This allows surfers, mariners and people living near the sea to take safety precautions, such as staying away from the sea or lakes during this time. Forecast agencies will alert when a developing gale is approaching, when the gale warning remains, and throughout as the warning remains in effect. Whether you’re a surfer or just a curious mind, in this article you’ll learn more about different kinds of alert warnings, safety measures you can take, and real stories about people who brave the waves in gale-force conditions. Let’s get started! What is a Gale Warning? Ever seen two red pennants flying or posted at your local beach during windy days? That, my friend, is the United States maritime flag system that indicates there’s a gale warning in your location. As mentioned earlier, a gale warning is an alert that is issued whenever the maritime is experiencing or about to experience winds of gale-force that is within the range of 34 knots (63 km/h or 39 mph) to 47 knots (87 km/h or 54 mph), with a sustained wind force of ten minutes or more. So how are gale winds measured? In 1805, a British Royal Navy known as Sir Francis Beaufort devised a scale that can help mariners and sailors estimate wind force through observation without having to use any kinds of wind tools. His scale ranges from 0 to 12 depending on the wind strength, which you can also see from the table below. (Reference: National Weather Service) Force Speed Knots Description Sea Specifications 0 0 to 1 0 to 1 Calm Sea is like a mirror 1 1 to 3 1 to 3 Light Air Water has ripples; scales appear but without foam crests 2 4 to 7 4 to 6 Light Breeze Small and more pronounced wavelets; Crests appear glassy but don’t break 3 8 to 12 7 to 10 Gentle Breeze Larger wavelets; crests start to break; seafoam has a glassy appearance; scattered white horses 4 13 to 18 11 to 16 Moderate Breeze Small waves are becoming larger; white horses become fairly frequent 5 19 to 24 17 to 21 Fresh Breeze Moderate and long-formed waves; lots of white horses are formed 6 25 to 31 22 to 27 Strong Breeze Large waves are starting to form; white foam crests are more frequent 7 32 to 38 28 to 33 Near Gale Sea heaps up; white foam from breaks are blown in streaks along the wind’s direction 8 39 to 46 34 to 40 Gale Moderate waves with greater length; the edge of crests begin to break; the seafoam is blown in streaks along the wind’s direction 9 47 to 54 41 to 47 Severe Gale High waves with dense streaks of foam; wave crests begin to topple; sea sprays may not affect visibility 10 55 to 63 48 to 55 Storm Higher waves with long overhanging crests; the surface of the sea becomes white in appearance 11 64 to 72 56 to 63 Violent Storm Exceptionally high waves with edges of the crests blown into froth; the sea is completely covered in white, long patches of foam 12 72 to 83 64-71 Hurricane Air is fully covered with foam and spray; sea completely white; visibility is very much affected How are gale winds formed? Gale winds are usually associated with low-pressure areas. They may also come from anticyclones (not to be confused with a typical cyclone), or from sudden drop and rapid transition from high pressure system to low pressure. Typically, if a certain area has a lower pressure system than the areas surrounding it, the wind will blow towards the low-pressure area, and the sudden difference in temperature results in the formation of gale-force winds. Surfing with Gale-Force Winds Do surfers actually surf in places with gale warnings? During a wind speed force of 8, people living near the shore often experience hazardous situations such as their roofs or any light construction house materials getting blown off by the strong winds. It can get scary, but you’d be surprised by how much people are thrilled with this kind of weather condition. Some surfers compare gale-force winds similar to winter surfing or riding big waves spots like Pipeline and Mavericks. Let’s take the locals of the Great Lakes, for instance. For them, the best surfing months of Lake Michigan happen every October and November when low-pressure systems fuel their strong winds and create the biggest barrels and gnarliest waves. Surfing with gale winds could be tempting, but keep in mind that nature can be unpredictable and dangerous. A day out in a rough sea might be your last if you don’t heed the gale warnings of the local authorities, so use … Read more

What Surfboard Size Should I Get? | What Type?

December 29, 2022by Luke Morris

best 6ft surfboards, what surfboard size should I get?

When it comes to finding perfect surfboard, you must think about your height, weight, and skills first. Most people don’t know which type of board is suitable for their performance level. Luckily for you, this article is ready to guide you in choosing the right surfboard. What Surfboard Size Should I Get? If you want to know which board is suitable for you, the essential thing to consider is his weight. This number will serve as your guide to find the ideal surfboard size. Nowadays, most brands show the size information of their boards through websites. Some of them also offer accurate calculators to help surfers determine the right size of board for a certain weight. Here’s an expert guide: Type of Surfboard Newbie Intermediate Weight (kg) Board Size Weight Board Size Shortboard 45 – 63 6’ 2” – 6’ 4” 45 – 63 6’ 0” – 6’ 4” 63 – 72 6’ 4” – 6’ 8” 63 – 72 6’ 2” – 6’ 6” 72 – 81 6’ 6” – 6’ 10” 72 – 81 6’ 4” – 6’ 8” 81 – 90 6’ 10” – 7’ 4” 81 – 90 6’ 8” – 7’ 2” > 90 > 7’ 4” > 90 7’ 2” Fish 45 – 63 6’ 1” – 6’ 4” 45 – 63 5’ 10” – 6’ 2” 63 – 72 6’ 3” – 6’ 8” 63 – 72 5 – 10” – 6’ 2” 72 – 81 6’ 5” – 6’ 10” 72 – 81 6’ 4” – 6’ 7” 81 – 90 6’ 9” – 7’ 4” 81 – 90 6’ 8” – 7’ 2” > 90 > 7’ 8” > 90 7’ 6” – 8’ Funboard / Malibu Evolution 45 – 63 7’ 2” – 7’ 4” 45 – 63 7’ 0” – 7’ 2” 63 – 72 7’ 4” – 7’ 6” 63 – 72 7’ 2” – 7’ 4” 72 – 81 7’ 6” – 7’ 8” 72 – 81 7’ 6” 81 – 90 7’ 8” 81 – 90 7’ 7” > 90 > 7’ 8” > 90 7’ 8” Longboard 45 – 63 9’ 2” – 9’ 4” 45 – 63 9’ 0” – 9’ 2” 63 – 72 9’ 4” – 9’6” 63 – 72 9’ 0” – 9’ 2” 72 – 81 9’6 – 9’8 72 – 81 9’ 4” – 9’ 6” 81 – 90 9’ 8” – 10’ 81 – 90 9’ 4” – 9’ 6” > 90 > 10’ > 90 10’ SUP (Stand Up Paddle Boards) 45 – 63 10’ 0” – 10’ 8” 45 – 63 10’ 0” – 10’ 6” 63 – 72 10’ 0” – 10’ 8” 63 – 72 10’ 0” – 10’ 6” 72 – 81 11’ 3” – 12” 72 – 81 11’ 0” – 11’ 6” 81 – 90 11’ 8” – 12” 82 – 90 11’ 0” – 11’ 6” > 90 11’ 11” – 12” > 90 11’ 11” – 12” The table above only discussed weight, so some people might ask about the height. Surfboards must be at least three feet taller than the user’s height. However, experts do not suggest people rely on height but instead on weight. Therefore, the table above is the best option. If you have chosen a smaller board, there is a massive tendency of a slow, weak, and ugly performance. Too small surfboards will also catch waves later, make the surfer look terrible, and paddle slower. What Are the Types of Surfboards? Shortboards Shortboards are suitable for surfers who are ready to progress from fish-style boards or funboards. Surfers must be confident in paddling, popping up, catching waves, and maneuvering. If a surfer wants to experience new surfing activities, using a shortboard is an excellent way to do so. This board is lighter, smaller, and floats less compared to longboard. Additionally, it also contains less foam. Therefore, surfers can find it easier to push during big and powerful waves. A surfer can proceed using a shortboard if he mastered doing the following: can catch small and big waves anytime can stay on the wave during high pressure can easily generate speed can use the fish-style and fun boards professionally Here are the advantages of using a shortboard: Creates significant improvements in overcoming big waves Allows a surfer to learn unique style and techniques Quickly improve maneuvering, paddling, and popping up Fish-style Boards Fish-style boards are ideal for people who came from using longboards. It can help the surfer to adjust carefully with a different board shape and size before going straight to shortboards. When a surfer chose fish-style boards, he can practice maneuvering and turning smoothly compared to using some other board types. It can also help the surfer o master his stability in water. A surfer can proceed using fish-style boards if he mastered doing the following: Popping ups Paddling Catching waves Turning left and right Using soft-top longboards Funboards A funboard is more like a hybrid that came from a shortboard and a longboard. Surfers can use this after mastering the longboard. This board is a pretty good option, especially for people who do not want to jump directly to fish-style boards. It is popular among newbies since it is easier to paddle, and it can improve a surfer’s skills in maneuvering, controlling, and paddling. If a surfer wants to get away from a soft-top board and proceed to a higher level, they usually choose funboards. It works impressively with small waves. Most people do not know the difference between a funboard and a fish-style board. They must visit some surf shops to compare the two. For newbies, funboards are highly recommended compared to fish-style boards. Longboards Longboards are ideal for newbies since it can provide extra floatation and stability in the water. It is also more comfortable and faster to paddle. Longboards with the soft top are also recommended to newbies since it is safer to … Read more

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