How to Surf Choppy Waves: 11 Must-Know Steps
There is nothing like arriving at the beach to find the perfect conditions. Slight offshore winds with long swell periods, long clean waves rolling down the coastline, and crystal clear water. But the reality is that these conditions don’t come around too often, and a fair amount of time the water is a choppy mess. To surf choppy waves you will need to work like never before. You need to pop up faster, paddle harder, and constantly move around the break. Just because the conditions aren’t perfect does not mean you need to miss out on your surf, and in fact, surfing messy waves will be more beneficial than you think. What Are Choppy Waves? When we surf we’re looking for long clean waves that hold up well and break from a single point. These conditions often come with flat waters, low levels of winds, and big groundswell. Choppy waves are about as opposite from the perfect conditions that you can find. When waves are choppy they are a mess. They break from all over, and often in multiple different directions. In choppy conditions the ocean’s surface is bumpy due to strong winds (usually on or cross-shore), which makes paddling out, balancing on your board, and finding a good wave a challenge. In short, choppy waves are rough, messy, and disorganized, and often break in multiple directions due to strong winds. Tips for Surfing in Choppy Waves Surfing in choppy waves may not seem as perfect as surfing when the water is like glass, but there is still fun to be had. Just because it is more challenging, does not mean that choppy water is a reason to not surf. The following tips will help you master surfing in choppy water, and give you a foundation for surfing in messy conditions. 1. Find a Wind-Protected Break (If Possible) Although it is often not possible, many surfers are privileged to live around coastlines facing different directions. If this is the case, then surfing a break that is more protected from the wind will reduce the chop in the water, as well as make paddling around the bay easier. The less you need to fight against the wind, the less energy you will use up paddling. If you do not live in such an area, then a break with boulders, protected by buildings, or a point may help reduce the impact of the wind. 2. Take Landmarks Before Paddling Out It’s always a good idea to take note of where you will sit in the water and how it relates to the land. Doing this will let you know if you are drifting too far across the bay (something easy to do when you are staring out to the open sea). Because the waves are chaotic and the wind is blowing, surfing in choppy conditions can quickly leave you hundreds of meters down the beach without you realizing it. Once you have found a general area that you would like to surf in, take note of how it relates to your landmarks so that you always know where you are. 3. Don’t Wait for the Perfect Wave If you paddle out in choppy water and think you are going to just wait for the best waves to come through, then you are going to find yourself surfing very few waves. Perfect waves just about don’t exist in choppy conditions, so don’t wait for one. Surfing in messy waves is time to catch anything and everything you think you could ride. Whether it is a 30-second ride (unlikely) or a 10-second ride, you should try to catch them all. You can think of it as catching loads of small short rides to make up for the fewer, big, longer rides you would catch in better conditions. 4. Never Stay Still If you want to be a good surfer you need to get used to moving around the bay. Unless you are surfing in perfect conditions over a reef or point, the waves seldom peak at the same point. If you sit in a single spot you will miss out on many sets as they break further out, closer in, or slightly to the side. This rule is particularly important when surfing in choppy water. Because waves are breaking everywhere you will need to be constantly on the move. Catch a wave, turn around, paddle, catch a wave… There will be no resting in choppy water. You may not be able to surf for as long, but you will surely get your time’s worth. 5. Prepare to Duck Dive… a Lot Because waves are breaking everywhere you will have a lot of opportunities to catch a ride, will need to constantly be on the move, and will also need to duck dive more than you ever have before. As there is no clear wave period, you will need to dodge and dive under waves left, right, and center if you want to push through them. Prepare your breath, get through the wave, paddle, and get ready for the next. 6. Stand Up Quickly When the waves are short and break quickly you can’t take your time to get on your feet. If you do, the ride will be over before you have stood up. Practice your pop-up, not only technique but for speed. The faster you get up, the longer your already short ride will be. Even if you spend the entire session practicing popping up, it will be worth it. 7. Bend Your Knees When you take off on a wave you should expect your ride to be bumpy because of the choppy water. This, in combination with the wind, can make staying on your board a challenge. The only way to overcome this is to bend your knees. The lower your center of gravity, the more stable you will feel. You will always find benefits to crouching while surfing, but in choppy water, it’s a must. 8. Use the Right Board … Read more