How to Surf Choppy Waves: 11 Must-Know Steps

how to surf choppy waves

There is nothing like arriving at the beach to find the perfect conditions. Slight offshore winds with long swell periods, long clean waves rolling down the coastline, and crystal clear water. But the reality is that these conditions don’t come around too often, and a fair amount of time the water is a choppy mess. To surf choppy waves you will need to work like never before. You need to pop up faster, paddle harder, and constantly move around the break. Just because the conditions aren’t perfect does not mean you need to miss out on your surf, and in fact, surfing messy waves will be more beneficial than you think. What Are Choppy Waves? When we surf we’re looking for long clean waves that hold up well and break from a single point. These conditions often come with flat waters, low levels of winds, and big groundswell. Choppy waves are about as opposite from the perfect conditions that you can find. When waves are choppy they are a mess. They break from all over, and often in multiple different directions. In choppy conditions the ocean’s surface is bumpy due to strong winds (usually on or cross-shore), which makes paddling out, balancing on your board, and finding a good wave a challenge. In short, choppy waves are rough, messy, and disorganized, and often break in multiple directions due to strong winds. Tips for Surfing in Choppy Waves Surfing in choppy waves may not seem as perfect as surfing when the water is like glass, but there is still fun to be had. Just because it is more challenging, does not mean that choppy water is a reason to not surf. The following tips will help you master surfing in choppy water, and give you a foundation for surfing in messy conditions. 1. Find a Wind-Protected Break (If Possible) Although it is often not possible, many surfers are privileged to live around coastlines facing different directions. If this is the case, then surfing a break that is more protected from the wind will reduce the chop in the water, as well as make paddling around the bay easier. The less you need to fight against the wind, the less energy you will use up paddling. If you do not live in such an area, then a break with boulders, protected by buildings, or a point may help reduce the impact of the wind. 2. Take Landmarks Before Paddling Out It’s always a good idea to take note of where you will sit in the water and how it relates to the land. Doing this will let you know if you are drifting too far across the bay (something easy to do when you are staring out to the open sea). Because the waves are chaotic and the wind is blowing, surfing in choppy conditions can quickly leave you hundreds of meters down the beach without you realizing it. Once you have found a general area that you would like to surf in, take note of how it relates to your landmarks so that you always know where you are. 3. Don’t Wait for the Perfect Wave If you paddle out in choppy water and think you are going to just wait for the best waves to come through, then you are going to find yourself surfing very few waves. Perfect waves just about don’t exist in choppy conditions, so don’t wait for one. Surfing in messy waves is time to catch anything and everything you think you could ride. Whether it is a 30-second ride (unlikely) or a 10-second ride, you should try to catch them all. You can think of it as catching loads of small short rides to make up for the fewer, big, longer rides you would catch in better conditions. 4. Never Stay Still If you want to be a good surfer you need to get used to moving around the bay. Unless you are surfing in perfect conditions over a reef or point, the waves seldom peak at the same point. If you sit in a single spot you will miss out on many sets as they break further out, closer in, or slightly to the side. This rule is particularly important when surfing in choppy water. Because waves are breaking everywhere you will need to be constantly on the move. Catch a wave, turn around, paddle, catch a wave… There will be no resting in choppy water. You may not be able to surf for as long, but you will surely get your time’s worth. 5. Prepare to Duck Dive… a Lot Because waves are breaking everywhere you will have a lot of opportunities to catch a ride, will need to constantly be on the move, and will also need to duck dive more than you ever have before. As there is no clear wave period, you will need to dodge and dive under waves left, right, and center if you want to push through them. Prepare your breath, get through the wave, paddle, and get ready for the next. 6. Stand Up Quickly When the waves are short and break quickly you can’t take your time to get on your feet. If you do, the ride will be over before you have stood up. Practice your pop-up, not only technique but for speed. The faster you get up, the longer your already short ride will be. Even if you spend the entire session practicing popping up, it will be worth it. 7. Bend Your Knees When you take off on a wave you should expect your ride to be bumpy because of the choppy water. This, in combination with the wind, can make staying on your board a challenge. The only way to overcome this is to bend your knees. The lower your center of gravity, the more stable you will feel. You will always find benefits to crouching while surfing, but in choppy water, it’s a must. 8. Use the Right Board … Read more

The Art Of Longboard Surfing: Tips

The Art of Longboard Surfing

Longboard surfing is an immensely popular surfing discipline that follows a different “rule set” to regular surfboarding. If you’re considering taking up the art of longboard surfing, this article provides some great tips for mastering this classic style. Longboard surfing is the oldest form of surfing, and although it’s experienced several changes over the millennia, the “heart” is the same. Longboarding lacks the aerial displays of other surfing but requires excellent balance, patience, practice, and a healthy respect for the ocean. Longboard surfboards often have a stigma of beginners’ boards; however, the unique discipline is immensely popular amongst new and experienced surfers alike. These boards allow you to surf in water other surfers can’t while looking elegant and stylish on the waves. Below we’ll look at how to perfect your techniques for longboard surfing to show short-boarders what it’s all about. What Is Longboard Surfing? Although longboarding and regular surfing share many similarities, longboarding has a deep-set history and an entirely different “feel.” The movements are elegant, the pace is slow, the tricks involve less flipping and zigzagging around the wave and more fancy footwork, and the image is immaculate. Longboard surfing (as the name implies) involves riding waves on a longer and (usually) wider surfboard than those used in competitions. Longboards are surfboards over 8′, but most longboards start at 9′ and reach 12′. However, there are some 14′ boards. Longboards usually have rounded noses. One of the best ways to explain longboard surfing to a newcomer is that it’s like dancing with the waves (as opposed to other surfing, which is like attacking the waves). Unlike shortboard surfers, longboarders are at home in gentle swells (between 1 and 3′), in water that is ankle-deep to the swells at the back. Why Would You Use A Longboard Surfboard? Longboarding focuses on a sustained ride, gracefully gliding along the wave. At the same time, shorter surfboards (like thrusters and fish) are better suited to quick turns, higher speeds, flips, and other aerial maneuvers. Thanks to their length, longboards are easier to paddle and balance on, making them ideal for beginner surfers trying to learn the tricks of the trade. However, longboard surfing is not limited to beginners. Many riders who prefer the “soul surfing” experience stick with longboarding, which has its surfing subculture. Longboards are also ideal for calm water conditions when the swell is too small for shorter boards. How to Choose the Right Longboard Surfboard The first step to becoming a longboard surfer is to select the correct board. An important value when choosing a surfboard is its volume (measured in liters) which is a product of the board’s length, width, and height (i.e., if you filled up the board, how much liquid it could hold). Longboards are usually in the range of 50 to 100 L. Aside from the physical dimensions, there are different longboard types on the market, each designed to meet a specific goal, and choosing can be tricky as they don’t perform in the same way. The Different Longboard Surfboard Types There are two main types of longboard surfboards, the nose rider/classic longboard and the performance longboard (there are also a couple of hybrid surfboards). The type of longboard you choose depends on what you want to surf, the conditions you are most often faced with, your physical build, and your experience level. Classic, Single Fin Longboards These are the traditional longboards. They are ideal for calmer water, where the swell is small to average-sized. These boards are fantastic for all skill levels, and while you won’t perform any aerial maneuvers, you’ll cross-step, nose-ride, hang, and “dance” across the board. They are incredibly stable and are the easiest boards to catch waves on, thanks to their rounded nose, wider bodies, flatter curves (rocker), rounded rails, and greater volume. The single-fin design is ideal for holding your course and “riding out” a wave. These boards are also called ”noserider longboards,” thanks to the technique of walking to the front and standing on the surfboard’s nose. Performance Longboards Performance longboards differ from their traditional counterparts in their fin setup. While traditional logs (longboards) have a single fin, performance longboards have a “thruster” setup where three fins are arranged in a triangle “pointing” to the rear of the board (two lateral fins and a central fin further back). The thruster setup is the most commonly used fin arrangement because of its effectiveness and all-purpose use. These setups are ideal for maximizing balance, control, and speed. Alternatively, performance longboards may have quad fins (two lateral fins on either side, one pair outside, the other slightly further back and inside) or a 2+1 setup (like a thruster, but the lateral fins are shorter). These longboards are narrower than nose riders and have a sharper curve (rocker). These boards are better suited to larger swells and steeper and faster waves thanks to their design. These boards cater to experienced surfers, as beginners will find them more challenging to ride. Hybrid Longboards A hybrid surfboard borrows elements from other boards. Some examples of hybrid longboards include: The Gun The gun is a surfboard adaptation with a pointed nose and a narrower body than traditional longboards. Between 6 and 10′, these boards are for catching large waves (giving them the name “elephant gun” – the surfboard for hunting large waves). These boards require more skill than a traditional longboard but are faster, more maneuverable, and work better in bigger water. Most surfers won’t fully appreciate a gun’s potential, as they were designed to face the biggest waves. These boards are ideal for brave/crazy, experienced surfers who enjoy pushing themselves to the limit. Funboard/Malibu-Mini The funboard is a hybrid between a long and a shortboard. These boards have fantastic maneuverability, good balance and are easy to paddle. They are between 6’5” and 8’5” (just big enough to be considered longboards). Most have a rounded nose, a wide body, rounded square tails, and a thruster fin setup. These boards are slightly wider than … Read more

What Is Goofy Foot Surfing? | A Look at the Surfing Stance

Every surfer falls into one of two categories: regular foot surfer and goofy foot surfer. You may have heard of goofy and regular. These are frequent terms in surfing and skating, windsurfing, snowboarding, and wakeboarding. Before you start learning how to surf, you need to figure out your surfing stance. This determines which foot is in front of the other when you stand up on your surfboard. There is no right or wrong stance – it all boils down to what makes you comfortable when you try to balance. Goofy foot surfing always intrigued beginners, primarily because of what it is called. This article is all about what goofy foot surfing is and everything you need to know about this stance. What Is Goofy Foot Surfing? Goofy foot surfing or goofy footed surfers refers to the stance where the surfer places his right foot forward and left foot back. A goofy foot surfer is less common than a regular foot surfer, in the same way, there are more right-handed people than left-handed. The goofy foot is one of the oldest terms in surfing that is still widely used as surfing jargon. But, where does the term “goofy” come from? Theory One: Disney’s “Hawaiian Holiday” Theory one relates it to Walt Disney’s 1937 animated film “Hawaiian Holiday.” The film featured Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Pluto, Goofy, Donald Duck, a crab, and a starfish. Goofy was in his surfing sessions, and he showed a right-foot forward stance before falling off into a horrendous wipeout. The hitch was – in the movie, Goofy also rides regularly with his left foot forward. Moreover, the term “goofy” originally coined from the word “goff” was by then a derogatory word meaning “fool,” “weird,” or “silly.” Perhaps, it was why Disney named his character “Goofy,” being a clumsy anthropomorphic dog. Theory Two: Desmond Muirhead’s “Surfing in Hawaii” Muirhead was an internationally renowned golf course designer. A former Hawaii resident around the 1960s, he was a frequent visitor in the following years and was described by different golf publications as the most innovative golf course architect. One of his projects was the five golf courses he designed in partnership with Jack Nicklaus. His controversial designs proved hypocritical criticisms from the world of golf and golf architecture. His visits back to Hawaii led him to fall in love with surfing. He took lessons and later on became a well-rounded surfer. After his first contact with Waikiki’s perfect waves, he felt like writing a book, so he published one entitled “Surfing in Hawaii.” In his book, the first-ever written reference to “goofy-footed surfers” can be read. In Chapter V, “The Beginner and the Philosophy of Surfing.”, page 51, it said; “People who put their right foot forward are called ‘goofy foots.’ Personally, I find this position the most comfortable.” Muirhead’s daughter brought the book back to life when it was republished on SurferToday.com. Looking at the timeline, Muirhead only started surfing around 1956. His book was published in 1962. This sequence makes it plausible that the expression “goofy-footed” has been in use before 1962. How To Find Out What Stance You Are? The simplest way to determine whether you are a regular-footed surfer or a goofy-footed surfer is to identify your dominant foot. The “Push Test”: Stand still and have someone gently push you from behind. Whichever foot you instinctively step forward with is likely your leading foot on a surfboard. Skateboard Test: Try riding a skateboard. The foot you place forward while skating will generally be the same when surfing. Comfort and Natural Movement: Above all, your surfing stance should feel natural and comfortable. If Goofy Foot feels right, then it’s your stance. Again: Left foot forward = regular foot surfing Right foot forward = goofy foot surfing Most right-handed people have their right foot as their dominant foot, too. The same goes with most left-handed people who have left as their dominant foot, as well. This is why most right-handed people have a regular foot-surfing stance, while most left-handed have a goofy foot-surfing stance. However, this won’t always be the case. As with most sporting activities, it may also rely on how comfortable you are. Some right-handed people prefer goofy foot surfing, and some left-handed prefer regular. Learning to Surf as a Goofy Footer Starting your surfing journey as a Goofy Footer can be a unique experience. While most surf instructors teach Regular Foot first, it’s important to stick with what feels right for you. Beginner Tips: Focus on your balance and foot placement early on. Practicing pop-ups (the motion of standing up on your board) can help you get comfortable with your Goofy Foot stance. Common Challenges: You may find certain waves or maneuvers more challenging due to the stance. However, with practice and persistence, these obstacles can be overcome. Adapting to Waves: Different waves may require slight adjustments in your stance and approach. Learning to read the waves and how they break will help you adapt your surfing style. Frontside and Backside Surfing Now that we are clear with the surfing stance, we need to understand the subsequent terms closely related to goofy foot and regular foot surfing – frontside and backside. These two terms relate to the direction your body faces when you ride a wave. Frontside This is when a surfer’s chest and toes are facing the wave. Most regular-footed surfers ride frontside on the waves that are breaking to their right. On the other hand, they ride backside on waves that are breaking to their left. Backside This is when a surfer’s back and heels are facing the wave. Most goofy foot surfers ride frontside on waves that are breaking to their left. They ride backside on waves that are breaking to their right. By and large, most surfers prefer surfing frontside to backside since it makes the ride feel more natural, especially when going down the line. As a result, learning how to surf the back side will be more difficult … Read more

Surfing Competitions: How Do They Actually Work? + Guide

Anything related to surfing is cool. The ocean is a given. Who wouldn’t agree that the ocean is cool, especially during warmer days?  Surf brands that market apparel, gear, and anything surf related are in and a lot of people are into them even when they don’t know how to surf. That is just how appealing surfing is to the world. With that said, I bet you would agree that surfing events and competitions aren’t the last on the list of cool things! They are fun to watch. They give us thrills and excitement. They connect us to our surfing heroes. To top it off, it just feels good to see people slay on the waters.  Surfing Competitions: How Do They Work? The world of surfing is fun. But, when it comes to competitions and events, it can be quite confusing. You would not want to look clueless the next time you attend a surfing event so we’re breaking it down for you.  After this, you will be ready to talk about heats, priorities, and wildcards like you really know what you are talking about. Not just ready but confident to understand and talk about it.  Rules and Regulations   As with a lot of competitions, surf ones work comparatively the same way – there are those big international events, then the national ones. Generally, there are heats that a surfer needs to hit to step to the next round. WSL (World Surf League) synchronizes the annual tour of pro surf competitions taking in men’s and women’s CT (Championship Tours), the QS (Qualifying Series), the Longboard Championships, the Junior Championships, the Big Wave Tour, and the XXL Big Wave Awards.  The rules are not too complicated although it is worth getting to understand as you watch the sport. Pretty much, these rules are in place to guarantee athletes’ safety, competition fairness, and more importantly, to encourage the best surfing experience in the field of live competition.    WSL basics are: Judging and points Rankings  Priority Interference Heat Restart  Doping and Drug Use Judging and Points Surfing events are composed of rounds that are made up of heat. Heat comprises two to four participants at a time – all coming from a pre-determined competition zone. They have between twenty to thirty minutes max to catch and ride the best waves possible.  These surfers should lock in their two highest-scoring waves – both out of likely 10 points for a possible 20-point heat total. A group of 5 judges will score each wave on a scale of 1 to 10. For each ride, both the highest and the lowest scores are discounted into which the rider will receive the average of all scores.  Scoring the waves will be based on the following elements: Commitment and level of difficulty Original and progressive maneuvers Arrangement of major maneuvers Variety of maneuvers Speed, power, and flow These elements are judged by the following scales:  0.0 – 1.9: Poor 2.0 – 3.9: Fair 4.0 – 5.9: Average 6.0 – 7.9: Good 8.0 – 10.0: Excellent Rankings   Each surfer gets points based on their individual performance. The better they perform, the more points they get. These points get accumulated from every tour. For instance, on CT, the surfer that gets 10,000 points places 1st, 8,000 points places 2nd, and so on.  These make up their CT Rankings. By the end of the year, the male and female surfers with the highest points get to the top of the rankings and become the WSL Champions.    Priority The unconditional right of way to catch any waves is given to the surfer with priority. Other surfers present in the heat can paddle and catch the same wave provided that they do not impede the scoring possibility of the surfer with priority.  Surfer loses priority once they snag a wave/or paddles for it but misses it. If two or more surfers are catching a wave, the first one to make it to the take-off zone gets the priority.  Interference During the heat where surfers can chase the same wave considering the rule of priority, the surfer who hampers the scoring potential of the one with priority will be awarded an interference penalty. Most of the time, it results in their heat score getting calculated only based on their best-scoring wave.  This is not applicable for BWT (Big Wave Tour) though. In this case, if a surfer causes double interferences during a heat, they will be barred from the heat.  Heat Restart Exclusive to BWT, the heat restart rule can be directed by a judge in case no one catches a wave by the first 10 minutes of heat.  Anti-Doping Rule It was just in 2012 when WSL instituted Anti-Doping Policy. This aims to cover the use of both performance-enhancing and illicit substances. The rule applies not just to the surfer but to their active support staff, too.  Events and Competitions   Surfing competitions started in a relaxed and lenient way. The first held surfing events were friendly races run by Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club and the then-existing local surfing club. Photography during such events tickled the fancy of a lot of surfers and it began attracting surfers from all around Corona del Mar and all the spots that held surfing events.  At present, more than 45 events are running every year around the world. They happen at both well-known and less popular surfing destinations for pro and amateur surfers. They have covered life and are sponsored by corporate and TV ads.  Championship Tours The WCT (World Championship Tour) is the peak-level circuit. This is where the likes of Kelly Slater, Julian Wilson, Filipe Toledo, Stephanie Gilmore, Coco Ho, and Carissa Moore belong. In WCT, the surfers’ goal is to bag the best-ranking position by the end of the year. Who makes it to the WCT? In the men’s division, they are:  The 22 highest-ranking surfers of the CT  The top 10 QS surfers get to enter the CT 2 … Read more

How to Surf: A Beginner’s Guide to Surfing

If there is one thing advanced-level surfers won’t admit to you, they wouldn’t want to teach you how they do it. Experienced surfers may be off, silent, and awkward when you begin to ask questions. They may come off as arrogant and self-absorbed.  But it is for a good reason.  Surfers started as beginners, too. They experienced not being able to control the waves they faced. Despite the vastness of the ocean, it gave them limited resources – or, to put it merely, waves to learn how to ride. These waves, however, came in different shapes and sizes.  This reality is what surfers want you to figure out for yourself. Every wave comes differently. A specific style confronts particular types of waves. One that will make you look and feel good while staying safe.  Learning how to surf, as with most sports, is not easy. Some who have tried have gone bored because of the slow learning curve. But, others stay because that’s the most exciting part – challenging oneself to improve in every ride.  What is Surfing?    Surfing is next to swimming and diving as the most popular water sport. It is the act of riding on the waves. People who surf are called surfers. Customarily, surfer surf by lying, kneeling, or standing up on the surfboard. Over time, it evolved to body surfing and windsurfing, too.  In surfing, the wave rider rests on the forward part of a surfboard, facing a moving wave that typically brings the surfer toward the shore. Although oceans have more suitable waves for surfing, riders made it possible to ride even in lakes or rivers. This sport started as an essential activity in Polynesian culture. It goes back to the 4th century AD when Polynesians made their way to the Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands. These folks brought with them their colorful customs. One of which is playing on waves using their Paipo boards.  Surf riding is also linked to riding waves on planks and single canoe hulls. Historians also believe in its connection to fishing. The ancient Peru culture surfed on reed watercraft fishing.  Surfing was introduced to the Western world when three teenage Hawaiian princes took a break from their boarding school in 1885. They brought to their trip to Santa Cruz, California, their custom-shaped redwood boards, and rode the mouth of the San Lorenzo River.  George Freeth, an American lifeguard and swimming instructor, was the credited “Father of Modern Surfing.” He and a colleague, Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to the United States. Surfing is more than just a sport nowadays. It is now a culture that waves represent diversely. Some riders surf as a recreational activity, while others make it the center of their lives. It is most dominant in the US and Hawaii; however, its popularity is slowly getting known in other parts of the world.  Beginners Guide to Ride The Waves Surfing is not an easy watersport to learn. Learning to ride the waves could take weeks or sometimes even months, depending on your skill, fitness, the conditions of the waves you ride, and the frequency of your practice sessions.  Back when surfing was not as big as it is now, there weren’t any surfing schools that you can turn to ask to teach you how to surf. Surfers then relied on watching experienced riders do their thing and then trying it on their own.  Now, every surfing community has a surfing school. It is a happy sight to see kids, teenagers, and young adults trying to learn. It is impressive to see them ride waves. Surfing schools are a great help in boosting the popularity of this watersport and improving your surfing skills at the same time.   However, if you want to learn how to surf through the good old “learning by yourself,” here are a few tips you can take note of and memorize by heart.  Step 1. Condition and Prepare Your Body for Your Training Like most sports, you should prepare your body to endure the physical exhaustion of multiple training sessions. You will need more than just strong legs, but right arms’ strength, powerful shoulders, and a tough back.  Why? Simple. You will be spending 99% of your time paddling through the waters with your surfboard in a prone position. You will be drained after one to two hours of paddling, and you might wake up the next day with a very sore upper body.  Prepare yourself for training with physical activities like push-ups, pull-ups, and some dips. A little cardio such as running or jumping rope will help, too. Train yourself to balance with a surf skate or a balance board. Step 2. Try It Out First With Bodysurfing We mentioned in step one how that paddling would eat the majority of your learning time. Therefore, beginners usually have their surfboards under their arms. This practice is so that they master the art of paddling. Beginners typically give up at this point, as they feel frustrated that they aren’t doing anything but paddle.  In reality, paddling is the essential knowledge you need to arm yourself with. When you’ve mastered paddling, the natural sequence is bodysurfing. Riding the waves with your body allows you to feel and understand the waves as they crash into your board or vice versa.  All you need to do is to get into the water with your swimmers. Try to catch some tiny waves and let them push you back to the shore with your body in full extension. It adds fun to the learning part, and it leaves you with a deep feel for the wave, allowing you to learn when you should push into it.  Once inside the swell and grasped its energy and momentum, it will give you the sense of learning how to steer and maintain speed. Body surfing is like body dragging in kite surfing. It is a crucial step that is an absolute prerequisite for anyone … Read more

Common Eye Injuries You Can Get While Surfing: What You Need to Know

Common Eye injuries while surfing

Surfing can be an amazingly fun water sport. Despite this, it’s also important to acknowledge that injuries are sometimes unavoidable. We previously noted that some of the most common surfing injuries include head injuries when your board hits your head, shoulder dislocations, and cuts from rocks or surfboards. Some of these can be addressed with first aid, while others are more severe. However, there’s another part of your body you shouldn’t neglect while surfing: your eyes. They’re extremely sensitive and prone to injuries. Most of the time, the eye injuries you get while surfing aren’t easily solved through first aid. The worst-case scenario is you end up blind.   To prevent this, here are some common eye injuries that you can get while surfing and how you can address or avoid them: Pterygium Also known as ‘surfer’s eye,’ this condition is characterized by a clear, white, or pink-colored membrane that grows in the inner corner of the eyes. It spreads triangularly and can sometimes reach the iris or pupil. This results from excessive exposure to UV light from the sun. While it doesn’t result in immediate blindness, it can hamper your vision and prevent you from surfing safely. Fortunately, it’s relatively easy to prevent by wearing UV-blocking eyewear. The Australian Society of Ophthalmologists emphasizes the importance of wearing these since the country experiences an extreme UV index range of 11-15, particularly in the summer. This will protect your eyes from UV damage when surfing and prevent pterygium. The sunglasses from South Cali, including the Huntington and Coronado, have a protection rating of UV-400 for maximum defense. Photokeratitis Photokeratitis is like getting sunburn on your eyes. This is an uncomfortable and painful condition when your eyes are exposed to too much sunlight, especially when it bounces back from the water’s surface. While it only causes blindness in severe cases, it can prevent you from surfing and even seeing properly for days or weeks. You can avoid getting photokeratitis while surfing by wearing sunglasses with polarised lenses to reduce the amount of sunlight entering your eyes. These lenses have a filter that creates vertical openings for light, so horizontal light waves bouncing off the water don’t affect your eyes. Oakley makes dedicated surfing sunglasses with polarized lenses that are also lightweight for maximum comfort. The Sutro Lite Sweep covers your entire eye area, while the EVZero Blades are among the lightest sunglasses you can buy. Dry eye Dry eyes result from prolonged exposure to sunlight, saltwater, and windy conditions at the beach. Although this seems harmless, dry eyes can make it harder to see when surfing because your eyelids will stick to your eyeballs. This can also distract you, causing more injuries like shoulder dislocations. Bring moisture back into your eyes using lubricating eye drops with hyaluronic acid (HA). Compared to ordinary eye drops, these have better lubricating properties and performance since HA supplies nutrients to the eye and assists with wound healing—suitable for addressing eye surface abrasions due to dryness. The Hylo-Forte Eyedrops and Systane Lubricant Eye Drops contain HA and are available in most pharmacies, so you can buy them before heading to the beach. Bruised eyes The waves are unpredictable, so you can hit your eyes with your surfboard. Your injury can range from a light bruise to a black eye that will keep you from opening it. This may take weeks to heal, so you won’t be able to catch waves until then. You can wear protective goggles to protect your eyes from your board and other elements. Speedo has been creating swimming goggles for years, and its Biofuse 2.0 models are among its most durable options thanks to its silicone and polypropylene material. Meanwhile, Aquasphere’s Kayenne goggles have wide coverage, so even your undereyes are safe. Getting eye injuries can prevent you from surfing and permanently damage your vision. Keep safe by protecting your eyes with sunglasses, eye drops, and goggles while riding the waves!LukeLuke is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy and passion of surfing and water sports with enthusiasts around the world. With a deep-rooted love for the ocean and a lifelong commitment to riding waves, Luke’s journey as a surfer has inspired him to create a community where like-minded individuals can come together to celebrate their shared passion.

How to Get into Competitive Surfing Guide

how to get into competitive surfing

Surfing is an exhilarating and rewarding sport that offers endless opportunities for progression and challenge! Are you sitting there wondering what the next step is for you? Thinking about how to get into competitive surfing? Wondering how to one day become a pro surfer? Competitive surfing is the ultimate form of surfing that combines technical skill with speed and power. Nothing is as exciting as watching it all unfold! Here are some tips and tricks for aspiring surfers eager to jump into the competitive surfing scene! Getting into competitive surfing involves developing your skills with risky speed maneuvers and great flow. Join a community of surfers for networking, finding competitions, investing in the right surfing gear, and training your body and mind to handle complex waves and maneuvers.  One of the most pivotal parts of getting into competitive surfing, and being successful at it, is understanding how the judges will score you. We’ll cover scoring, how to develop your surfing skills correctly, and the importance of joining a surfing community. We’ll also look at the essentials of gear and preparing your body to become the instrument of your success.  Develop Your Surfing Skills Developing your skills as a surfer is crucial to get the most out of the exciting world of competitive surfing! Landing a 360-air reverse, traveling through a barrel, or flawlessly executing a roundhouse cutback are all impressive maneuvers. But these maneuvers alone won’t be enough to capture the judges’ attention. In today’s competitive surfing scene, WSL judges have specific criteria in which they favor creativity and originality, paying careful attention to the difficulty of your maneuver when they score you. Remember that judges are also surfing fans who crave excitement and surprise just as much as they do technical proficiency! Critical, Flow, and Speed are the primary factors that will help you succeed in competitive surfing! Critical, Flow, And Speed Being critical means performing risky turns in the most dangerous parts of a wave. This is where the excitement comes in – watching a surfer navigate a critical section is thrilling because it’s high-risk and can be intense, alluring, and even nail-biting. Judges love it when a surfer takes risks and executes critical turns with precision, but it’s also risky because the surfer could wipe out and waste the wave. Critical surfing is essential to competitive surfing because it’s both exciting to watch and challenging to execute. Flow is all about transitioning smoothly from one maneuver to another without wasting movement. The better your flow, the more appealing it will look to the judges. It may involve pumping the board up and down between turns or executing a few minor speed pumps to maintain momentum. If you were to use up all your Speed in the initial turns and neglect the rest of the wave, you would likely not score as high as you could have if you maintained a smooth ride. Find The Right Surfing Competitions Entering your first competition can be a daunting experience because you’ll have a panel of judges scrutinizing all the time and effort you put into getting to that point. For this reason, local competitions are a great way to get started in competitive surfing and can help you build confidence and experience. You’ll likely have friends and family that come and support you, plus you’ll also have spent countless hours in the same waters, offering some familiarity. When you feel that you’re ready to test your skills against other competitive surfers, the World Surf League (WSL) website is one of the best places to go. They are the governing body for professional surfers and host multiple competitions throughout the year. The Pipe Masters is another thrilling competition that takes place annually in Hawaii at the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu. If you have aspirations to compete in the Olympics, visit the official Olympics website. It has all the essential details you need to know, like the number of athletes competing, the stars to watch, and what you need to qualify. Get Involved in Your Surfing Community If you’re an aspiring competitive surfer, joining a surfing community will be an immense boon for growth and development! You’ll receive support and encouragement to hone your skills despite your failures, and you’ll emerge on the other side feeling much more confident. One of the most valuable aspects of joining a surfing community is having like-minded individuals offer feedback on your techniques and where you can focus on improvement. They can also advise you on your equipment and refine your training exercises. A surfing community is a handy place to access essential resources, such as coaches, training facilities, and local knowledge of surf conditions. If you incorporate this knowledge on the day of your competition, you already have the advantage when preparing for specific conditions. Remember that any community is foremost a place to connect with people, and there are all kinds of essential figures within a surfing community! You’ll network with other surfers, coaches, sponsors, and industry professionals. Suffice it to say, it can open up doors to future opportunities if you’re serious about getting into competitive surfing. Invest In the Right Surfing Gear When you get into competitive surfing, you want your body and mind to be in top shape, and that’s where the right surfing gear can make a significant impact. Surfboard The right surfboard for you is the one that aligns comfortably with your height, weight, and skill level, but none of these factors are as important as considering its volume (buoyancy). Volume refers to the space inside a surfboard, measured in liters, and affects its stability, speed, and ease of paddling. Surfs with higher volumes are more stable, making them easier to paddle and more suited to less experienced surfers. Lower-volume boards are more maneuverable and responsive, making them ideal for advanced surfers who wish to perform advanced maneuvers. An everyday surfboard like the 5’6” Sloth has 30L of volume, has a hefty amount of … Read more

Is Skateboarding Good For Surf Training?

Is Skateboarding Good For Surf Training

Skateboards were invented long ago by surfers who wanted to surf the sidewalks when not catching waves. Sure, they aren’t the same sport, given the difference in the surfaces ridden, but they share similar techniques. So, many surfers skate for fun and to practice skills in a more controlled environment. Skateboarding is a good tool for surf training, provided it is not the only form of practice. You can practice valuable techniques while working on your fitness, balance, concentration, and strength. However, skateboarding will not teach you how to paddle or understand the fickle nature of waves. In any training regime, knowing what you want to improve is good. You can enhance specific surfing techniques like balance, footwork, cutting, and board control with intentional practice on a skateboard. Doing so won’t make you a pro surfer, but the board time and muscle memory will undoubtedly help. Benefits Of Skateboarding For Surf Training Skateboarding is beneficial for surf training if you have already got some experience on a surfboard. You can use your skateboard to practice critical skills used in surfing, especially if you live somewhere where good waves are absent or inconsistent. Discussed next are some benefits of skateboarding for surf training: Skateboarding Improves Balance And Coordination The balance required in skateboarding is much like the unique type of balance needed in surfing. For instance, you can practice the following balance and coordination skills as part of your cross-training and fitness regime. Carving and turning are basic maneuvers used in skateboarding and surfing. Practicing leaning and adjusting your balance on a skateboard will help improve your bottom turn and carving skills in the waves. Stopping and stalling on a skateboard helps you get barreled in surfing or return to a wave’s energy zone. Slowing down on either of these boards requires you to shift your body weight to the tail without losing your balance or falling off. Helps Build Core Strength And Stability Skateboarding helps to maintain your core strength and stability when you’re not surfing, working, or sleeping. Such stability and core strength are vital for functional fitness and executing those advanced maneuvers on a surfboard later. Skateboarding Enhances Board Control And Foot Placement Board control and the correct foot placement are imperative for riding a wave to the max. Unfortunately, since we don’t all have access to consistent, excellent waves to practice these skills, we can do a bit of training on a skateboard. As mentioned, you slow a skateboard or surfboard by shifting your body weight to your back foot. However, you can also practice board control and foot placement by learning a critical maneuver on your skateboard: the ollie. If you know how to ollie on a skateboard, it opens you up to the world of aerial moves in surfing. All that fancy footwork on your skateboard creates muscle memory and sets you up for a splendid time of planned acrobatics in the surf. Skateboarding Offers A Similar Sensation To Surfing Skateboarding can offer a similar sensation to surfing, depending on what, where, and how you’re riding. For instance, you’ll find practicing in a skate park is more like surfing than cruising down a straight, flat road. So how else does skateboarding benefit surfing? The two board sports share a few fundamental elements, allowing you to practice despite the surf conditions. When used intentionally, skateboarding can benefit your surfing by helping you: Improve your flow, Visualize new lines, Experiment with new carves, Work on your timing and focus, and Create your suave surfing style. Drawbacks Of Skateboarding For Surf Training As helpful as skateboarding can be for surf training, it can negate some of your progression if not done right. But how so? Skateboarding And Surfing Use Different Movement Patterns Skateboarding and surfing share a few similarities, but many movement patterns differ. For instance, a large portion of surfing requires you to lie on your belly and confidently paddle while you wait for a wave, and skateboarding doesn’t teach you how to do that. Skateboarding Lacks The Resistance And Instability Of Water When skateboarding, you must contend with the certainties of gravity and solid ground. But the ocean is a different animal altogether. It’s moody and constantly changing, and no amount of skating can prepare you for a session in deep water. For example, you can only learn to survive being churned underwater by spending quality time in the waves – either with or without a board. Skateboarding Can Lead To Bad Habits On The Board You need to balance out your skating with surfing time to avoid reinforcing habits that aren’t ideal for surfing. If you’ve developed bad habits from skating, you must unlearn them to progress with your surfing. You can do this by retraining in the surf or practicing the right skill on your skateboard. How To Incorporate Skateboarding Into Your Surf Training Skateboarding can be helpful for surf training if you don’t rely on it as your sole training method. Here are some great tips to help you to incorporate skateboarding into your surf training: Use skateboarding as a complementary exercise to surfing. Not only is it like surfing in many respects, but you’re also getting valuable time on a board that helps you focus on mastering specific techniques. Additionally, you can use skateboarding as a cross-training or warm-up activity before hitting the surf. Focus on specific movements and techniques relevant to surfing. Skateboarding allows you to repeatedly practice appropriate surfing movements and techniques even when the surf isn’t great. Find a local skate park or DIY spot to practice. A skate park offers more opportunities to practice surf-related techniques than a flat surface would. For instance, you can practice kick turns, work on your floaters by doing 50-50s, practice your airs, slides, and carving on big ramps, and get valuable pocket practice. In the absence of a skate park in your area, you can make a DIY setup with a few ramps and ledges. Practice using a surf skate. If … Read more

Reef Rash: A Comprehensive Guide

Reef Rash

There’s a picture-perfect blue wave peeling lushly into a channel. A Perfect hollow barrel with an easy exit and roll-in entry–the easiest wave you’ll ever surf. The sun’s beaming, the water is bathtub-like, and there’s no one else in sight. It’s the stuff of dreams, right? If you’ve been lucky enough to sample the waves of the Mentawais or the Maldives, you’ll know this scene is a daily occurrence. I mean, it’s why you go!  However, not everything is as it seems. What many people don’t tell you about some of the world’s best waves is they all break over sharp shallow reefs. Most tropical surf spots break over razor-sharp coral, and if you’ve ever dived on these reefs on flat days or been lucky enough to come into contact with one after a wipeout, you’ll know first-hand just how sharp and nasty they are. It’s a danger most surfers are pretty blase about. But falling can lead to serious injury, laceration, or reef rash.  In this article, we dive into the annoying world and trip hindrance that is reef rash. From what it is and its symptoms to what you can do about it. I’ve written this post to give you confidence on your next surf trip and show you that reef rash doesn’t mean your trip is over. We have a bit to uncover, so let’s dive in.  What is Reef Rash?  Reef rash is the slang term given to a surfer who falls and cuts themselves on a reef. Typically, these types of injuries will appear as either a laceration or graze. They often look worse than they are if there’s lots of blood, and it can be so bad that medical treatment (stitches) is required.  Coral is sharp and contact with it can break coral heads and mean you not only have a cut, but tiny pieces of coral implanted into you, which in somewhere like remote Indonesia is a recipe for infection. This is reef rash; if you’ve ever been on a trip and experienced it, you’ll know it can make you uncomfortable, itchy, in pain, and even out of the water. So how can you prevent reef rashes in the first place?  How to Prevent Reef Rash?  The best and easiest way to prevent reef rash is not to surf shallow reef breaks. Duh? Or, like me, spend your entire ten-day Mentawai trip terrified of the reef sitting wide in the channel. But you don’t want to do this. You want to catch amazing waves and maybe the barrel of your life. When surfing shallow reefs, there’s always the risk of hitting the reef and getting rashed up.  Reef Boots  The most common area to get reef rash and cuts are the feet. Whether from walking across the reef or getting in from a break to fumbling around and getting your board back after a wave, the feet cop the brunt of it when it comes to contact with sharp reef. Thankfully, you can purchase a pair of reef boots. These are super thin wetsuit boots that protect your feet from the reef. It’s the best way to prevent most reef cuts! I’ve never worn reef boots because I come from England and refuse to put on any sort of wetsuit-related bootie in the topics; after all, it’s what I go to Indo to escape, so I just get cut–stupid!  Helmet  A helmet is great for more serious waves, such as shallow, hollow reef passes. The Gath helmet has seen a resurgence in recent years in lineups worldwide after Owen Wright took out the Chopes WCT wearing one. It’s strange that, as surfers, most of us don’t wear helmets even when surfing waves of consequence; you wouldn’t see a skateboarder without a helmet launching massive airs in a half pipe, would you? So a helmet might not prevent reef rash, but it can protect you against more serious and life-threatening injuries on shallow reefs.  Rash Vest  The clues in the name. A wetsuit top (2mm) can help prevent reef rash. Let’s say you fall and scrape your back against the bottom, bareback this would result in long grazes and reef rash all down your back. But by wearing just a thin wetsuit top, you project yourself, even just a little bit, from this risk. While a wettie top might not protect you entirely, it also serves as excellent sun protection, and if it’s a bit windy or raining, even in the tropics, I get cold, which helps with that too! Symptoms of Reef Rash  Other than bleeding and stinging, some of the reef rash symptoms may include:  Aching  Firey feeling   Redness  Soreness  Itching  Mainly it will sting a lot and be annoying, but if symptoms persist, it could mean you have an infection (look for a reddening area around the cut), which will need antibiotics.  How to Treat Reef Rash?  If you’ve already had a fall and copped a bit of reef rash, don’t stress. There are a few ways you can treat it and prevent infection straight off the bat. Please note that for severe lacerations and cuts, you’ll need medical attention and may need stitching. But for minor scratches and grazes, the following remedies can work wonders.  Lime – Any surf camp in the tropics will have a few limes knocking about, and this is the traditional budget surf travelers’ reef rash remedy. And yes, it works–well! Grab a lime and squeeze and rub it into the rashed area. The acidity in the lime will help clean and disinfect bacteria from the reef. Yes, it does hurt like hell, and yes, you might scream. But it’s super effective.  Betadine – Betadine is not available in all counties (I can’t get it over the counter in the UK), but if you’re in Bali or coming from Australia, you can buy s small tub of betadine for less than $10 at your local chemist. It’s a brown disinfectant liquid that stops bacteria, and … Read more

Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners

best surfing tricks for beginners

When you begin a new sport, such as surfing, you must learn the basics. The basics of any sport allow the athlete to grow in confidence and master more advanced tricks in the future. So, before you focus on the gnarliest tricks done by professional surfers, focus on getting the basics right. The best surfing tricks for beginners include the pop-up, the bottom turn, and the cutback, and these tricks, when practiced repeatedly, will lead the surfer to be able to do more advanced tricks. The best intermediate surfing tricks for beginners include the top turn, floater, and off-the-lip.  In the article below, we will dissect the best tricks for beginner/intermediate surfers and provide a step-by-step guide on executing them. The best thing about starting with the best basic tricks for beginner surfers is finding a certain flow to your surfing. Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners: A Guide to Getting Started Technically speaking, before you focus on any of the best surfing tricks for beginners listed in the article, the first and one of the most important tricks to master is paddling. You will struggle to get in the best positions to perform the various surfing tricks without a good paddling technique. Surfing is a water sport where a surfer uses a board to ride the face (forward section) of a moving wave toward the shore. The surfer must employ a variety of basic tricks and proper techniques to successfully surf a wave and evolve into the best water athlete possible. Here’s a list of the key basic surfing tricks for beginners, and if you’re new to the sport of surfing, it’s highly suggested that you master them first: Basic Surfing Tricks for Beginners: The Pop-Up One of the most fundamental tricks of surfing is called the pop-up. The maneuver gets you from lying to standing; ultimately, you can’t surf if you can’t perform a pop-up, as you need to be on your feet when surfing. Think of the pop-up as a single-motion push-up that is both explosive and fluid simultaneously. Try the following steps when practicing the pop-up. Step 1: Positioning Your Body on the Surfboard The correct body positioning on the board is vital when performing a pop-up. Ideally, you want to lay in the sweet spot of your board, not too far forward and not too far back. Balancing in the middle of your board, called the sweet spot, makes paddling more efficient, resulting in good speed and maneuverability while out on the water. Lying too far back will result in too much weight on the tail, slowing the board down and counterproductive to planning. Lying too far to the front of the board will result in more planning speed and forward momentum, but the chances of nosediving increase. Before you perform a pop-up, lie on your stomach with your feet together (toes pointing towards the back of the board) and your hands on the surfboard close to your shoulders. Step 2: Find the Right Position in the Water Moving around and positioning yourself in the water is a required skill when you want to catch a wave. Scan the horizon for the right wave and paddle towards it to position yourself in the right position. Start paddling to shore to ride the wave when it reaches you and lifts you. Step 3: Push Your Body Up and Pop Up by Sliding Your Feet When you’re on the wave (wait for the lift), you must push your body up by using your core muscles, hands, and arms and sliding your feet forward. The aim is to land on your feet in the stance you have practiced on dry land. Swing both legs under you when pushing your body up. Your front foot must be near the board’s center, and your back foot should be near the tail. Your knees must be bent, and your weight distribution should be centered over the board for the best balance. If everything goes swimmingly, you should manage to surf the wave. Pat yourself on your back as you have performed what surfers call the pop-up. Helpful Hint – Practice your pop-up technique on dry land until your body learns and stores the memory in muscles. The more comfortable you become on land and regarding technique, the better your pop-up will feel when doing it in the water. Here is a helpful video if you’re struggling with your pop-up technique. Basic Surfing Tricks For Beginners: The Bottom Turn When you can perform the pop-up, a new set of beginner tricks must be mastered. One of these is called the bottom turn. The bottom turn is used to control your ride down the line in a smooth and effective manner. Step 1: Move Down the Wave Surfing involves moving to different parts of the wave to maximize the ride. After you pop up, the next thing to do is to ride the wave. As you go down the wave, your body should be in a crouch position. Make sure to focus on the spot of the wave where you want to go and use your extended arms for balance. Step 2: Keep Your Weight on Your Back Foot When reaching the bottom part of the wave, the aim is to keep your weight on your back foot, as you will need to launch the board into a pivotal turn and redirect it towards the face of the wave. Step 3: Launch the Board Up the Face of the Wave When you reach the bottom area of the wave, weight on the back foot, you need to push the tail of the surfboard down, turning it up to face the face of the wave. Keep your arms extended for balance, with your knees slightly bent, focused on where you want to go. The bottom turn sets you up to successfully ride down the line and rejoin the wave in surfable areas. Here is an excellent video on perfecting the bottom turn featuring Patrick … Read more

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