Surfing: Ride Waves, Experience Thrills & Conquer New Height

Surfing In Peru: Discovering The Best Waves

December 11, 2023May 28, 2023 by Luke

While most people are familiar with Hawaii, Bali, or even South Africa, most people don’t know about the surfing treasure that is Peru. So, when planning your next big surf expedition, if you’ve experienced the “usual” spots, why not consider surfing in Peru and discover the best waves in South America, Peru’s coastline stretches roughly 1500 miles along the Pacific Ocean, producing some of the longest waves in South America. While most of the coastline is great for surfing, the top surf spots in Peru are Mancora, Playa Chicama, Waikiki, and Punta Hermosa -provided you’re an advanced surfer. Peru is most famous for its incredible archeological treasures. However, Peru is a wondrous surfing destination thanks to the local currents and rugged coastlines. Below we’ll look at the best surfing spots, when the surfing season starts, surfing’s history in Peru, and how the surf culture looks. Peru Surfing Season: When To Catch The Biggest Waves Peru is good for surfing throughout the year. Providing visitors with a choice of summer or winter. Most visitors to the Peruvian shores prefer the summer months, December through February (remember, Peru is in the Southern Hemisphere), as these months guarantee warmer water and air temperatures. However, surf conditions are adequate from October to March (spring until early fall). Consequently, those interested in surfing the biggest of the big waves in Peru should head to southern Peru during the colder months (March to August), when Pico Alto rears its (up to) 35-foot face! These waves are only for experienced big-wave surfers, as many well-surfed individuals have broken bones here. Another perspective is that Peru experiences two surfing seasons. The south swell season is between March and November (winter), producing consistent, larger waves. The north swell season is from November to March (summer months). Although the waves are less consistent, the water is warmer. Surfing Events And Competitions In Peru Although Peru is not yet world number 1 for surfing, it has had some recognition from the global surfing community over the years. Peru has hosted several surfing competitions, including: Peru International Surfing Championships This annual surfing event ran in February or March between 1956 and 1974. The competition took place in Lima and was a tremendous success (with many international surfers) thanks to the likes of Carlos Dogny. The World Championships In 1965, Peru hosted this competition organized by the International Surfing Federation. Peru’s Felipe Pomar claimed gold in some tricky water. ISA World Longboard Surfing Championship Although the longboard surfing event is usually part of the ISA World Events, in 2013, it was a separate competition hosted in Peru. World Surfing League In 2017, Peru hosted two qualifying events: Rip Curl Pro San Bartolo Peru Men’s QS 1,000 Jeep Pro San Bartolo Peru Women’s QS 1,000 Where more than 100 athletes from different countries competed for a qualifying spot, Peru also hosted qualifiers in 2012. The Pan American Games in Lima Peru hosted these games in 2019, where surfing was one of many events. Peru took home (or kept) 7 medals. The Peru National Surf Circuit Peru’s surfing events are not only tied to international competitions. This national event is held annually and showcases the best surfers in Peru. There are various events, including longboarding, regular surfing, and stand-up paddle boarding across the most popular of Peru’s beaches. Peru Surfing History: From Ancient Origins To Modern-Day Destinations While many hold that the origins of surfing trace back to Polynesia (and eventually Hawaii), significant evidence points to ancient Peruvian surfing long before the Hawaiians and probably the Polynesians. Historians believe that the early peoples of the area (roughly 4000 years ago) rode on “caballitos de totora” (little reed horses), which predates the Incas in the area (part of the Mochica and Chimu cultures, or potentially the 1000 BC Viru culture). As their name suggests, these flotation devices are constructed from reeds tied together. There are two variations, a fishing boat (with a storage area) and a wave riding/surfing model. Riders of these “reed horses” stand up or kneel and use a cut bamboo pole to move around on the ocean (like stand-up paddleboarding) or catch the waves. Although less popular than a few millennia ago, some Peruvian anglers build and surf on their “caballitos.” Although related, these reed boats are considerably different from modern surfboards. The modern iteration of surfing arrived in Peru from Hawaii in 1942, when Carlos Dodgy established the Waikiki Club in Miraflores. A unique feature of Dodgy’s club was that it catered to the rich and opulent demographic. Butlers, attendants, board carriers, and luxurious accommodations were commonplace at the club. Since its re-introduction, surfing has become a popular pastime for many Peruvians, surfing alongside traditional reed horses (especially in Huanchaco). Peruvian Surfers’ Contribution To The Sport Although Peru’s coastline lends itself to fantastic surfing, the sport’s popularity and global interest in Peru relate to the impact Peruvian surfers have, showcasing to the world. 2004 Sofía Mulanovich put Peru back on the surfing map when she won the World Title (coming first in 3 out of 6 events). Although Sofia is one of the most famous Peruvian surfers, she’s not the only one contributing to the sport. Others include: Felipe Pomar – 1965 World Surfing Champion and surfing legend. Joaquin Mirá – Quesada, Francisco Aramburu, and Miguel Plaza – were the first to ride the Pico Alto (Tall Peak) in 1965. Cristobal de Col – in 2016 earned his Guinness Book of Records spot thanks to the 34 carved turns he made while riding the longest wave in Peru at Chicama. How Peru’s Coastline Affects Surf Conditions Peru’s surf conditions are created through the workings of the Humnbolt (or Peru) current, bringing cold water from the Antarctic. With the colder water come cold southwest winds, which whip up the waves. The roughly 1500-mile coastline experiences mostly tropical-dry and subtropical-desert climates. The coastline creates many point breaks, producing wonderful left-handed waves. Thanks to offshore reefs, Peru … Read more

Longboard Surfing Tricks: How to Step Up

December 17, 2023May 28, 2023 by Luke

Longboard surfing connects you with the ocean and lets you express yourself on the waves. Still, you’ll have to learn exciting skills and tricks to stand out from the crowd besides just riding out the wave. And this guide shows you how to rock the longboard like a pro, from the basics to the advanced moves. So, how can you step up your longboarding game? You must learn different maneuvers to elevate your longboard surfing skills, such as turns, cutbacks, re-entries, and nose rides. You also need to try some tricks that involve spinning, rolling, flying, and shuvits while practicing regularly, watching other surfers, and keeping a positive mindset. You’re about to enter the extraordinary world of longboard surfing, where you’ll learn how to nail the basic moves and the coolest tricks while remembering that it’s not all about technique. We’ll also give you some killer tips that will change your game and bring out the best surfer in you. So, don’t miss this chance to boost your skills and have a blast on the longboard. Let’s get started! Mastering The Basic Longboard Surfing Maneuvers So, getting to the basics – Longboarding surfing is a relaxed and laid-back style that requires a longboard, usually about three feet longer than your height. Different types of longboards, such as the nose rider, the performance, and the hybrid, suit various preferences and conditions. And starting longboarding surfing requires practicing your balance on a static board on grass or a rug and looking for waves breaking far from the shore. It would be best to include basic equipment, such as a swimsuit or wetsuit (optional), a fin, surf wax, a leg leash, and sunscreen. But before you can attempt any fancy tricks on your longboard, you need to master some essential skills and maneuvers that will help you control your board and ride the waves easily and in style. These are the basic longboard surfing maneuvers that every surfer should know: Bottom Turn Known as your first turn after catching a wave, it sets you up for the rest of the ride by positioning you on the face of the wave. Performing a bottom turn requires you to shift your weight to your rear foot and lean in your desired direction. Then, as you reach the lower end of the wave, you need to shift your weight to your front foot and look up at where you want to go next. Vision is essential for this role, allowing your body to respond and plan ahead on what you see rather than what you feel. And to top that up, Cross-stepping (mentioned below) can be extremely challenging without a proper bottom turn and board setup. Top Turn This is the turn you make at the top of the wave, allowing you to change direction and generate speed by using the power of the wave. Top turning is best approaching the lip of the wave with speed and angle your board towards it. Then, as you reach the lip, you must push hard on your back foot and twist your upper body in the opposite direction. It will make your board carve around and spray some water, and you’ll need to look down at where you want to go next and follow through with your board. Cutback A Cutback, or Front/Backside cutback, is the turn you make when you want to get back to the pocket, or power source, of the wave, allowing you to maintain speed and will help you stay on the wave for much longer. Among surfers, the common saying is “When fat, cutback!” which requires you to ride along the face of the wave until you feel like you are losing speed or getting too far ahead of the breaking section. You must shift your weight to your back foot and turn your board towards the whitewater. As you reach the whitewater, you need to shift a good portion of your weight to your front foot and turn your board back towards the face of the wave, making your board do a roundhouse arc and get back into position. It can be a slight learning curve for new surfers to get the hang of, but keep at it – and once you have it, it’s hard to forget the feeling! Re-Entry Re-entry is when you want to hit the lip of the wave with power and style, allowing you to show off your moves and impress other surfers. Every surfer’s arsenal must include a re-entry, which can take various forms, from a simple straight up and down to an explosive re-entry with no fins. The maneuver aims to ride the lip back to the flats after rebounding from the lip. To do a re-entry, you need to approach the lip of the wave with speed and angle your board slightly towards it. Then, as you reach the lip, you need to push hard on your back foot and lift your front foot up. This will make your board go vertical and hit the lip with force, where you will need to bring your front foot down and lean forward to land back on the face of the wave. Cross Step The Cross-stepping technique is used when you want to walk along your longboard and change your position on it. It allows you to adjust your trim and balance according to the size and shape of the wave. Cross-stepping also helps you adjust your position on the board and stay in the wave’s sweet spot. Start with your feet together near the middle of your board to do a cross-step – then, you need to move one foot forward by crossing it over or behind the other foot. Then, move the other foot forward by crossing it over or behind the first foot. You need to repeat this method until you reach your desired spot on your board – and sometimes, you’ll find that you do not need to go to the … Read more

Tom Curren: The Legendary Surfer

December 17, 2023May 26, 2023 by Luke

Surfing phenomenon – with an enigmatic personality, three world titles, and an almost poetic, original wave-riding style – Tom Curren is arguably the best and most influential surfer of all time. With a name almost synonymous with surfing, Tom Curren dominated professional surfing in the 1980s. Tom Curren is a legendary surfer and three times World Champion (1985, 1986, and 1990). His artistic, graceful, and revolutionary surfing style redefined competitive surfing in the late 1980s and early 1990s. He is among the wealthiest surfers, with a net worth of around $5 Million. Despite Curren’s humble, quiet, and reclusive personality, he was a fierce competitor with an unmatched talent in the water. Here’s more about the surfing legend who changed the art of competitive surfing in the 1980s. Is Tom Curren Still Surfing? Tom Curren odically retired from the competitive surfing scene in the mid-1990s. However, he is still very present in the world of surfing. Curren occasionally participates in ASP World Qualifying Series (WQS) contests, and the Word Championship Tour (WCT) often invited him to surf as a Dreamtour wildcard in their contests. He has also competed in the Annual Switchfoot Bro-Am Surf Contest a couple of times, surfing on the Switchfoot team. The Bro-Am is dedicated to giving back to the San Diego community and local children’s charities by raising awareness and funds. Tom Curren enjoys tinkering with unconventional surfboard designs, skimboards, and bodyboards, often in pumping surf. And even though he loves surfing in his local Santa Barbara waters, he still loves traveling the world to chase down those perfect waves. Curren occasionally trades his board for his guitar. His singing and composition reflect his unique personality, marrying blues, folk, and rock. Tom Curren has released several albums and has toured extensively. How Old Is Tom Curren? Tom Curren is 58 years old today. He was born in beautiful Santa Barbara, California, on 3 July 1964. How Many World Titles Did Tom Curren Win? Tom Curren has three world titles – 1985, 1986, and 1990. He was the first American surfer to win the men’s world title. Before Kelly Slater dominated the competitive arena, Curren held the record for achieving the most event victories, with 33 wins from 1982 to 1992. Curren is also a three-time Op Pro Champion, winning in 1983, 1984, and 1988. Tom Curren’s Surfing Style And Achievements Tom Curren redefined the competitive surfing era in the 1980s with his unique, effortless wave-riding style that other surfers can only dream of emulating. He always will be one of the most stylish surfers in history. Curren is an artist, then a world-champion surfer. Opposite to surfers like Occy, who surf with aggression and sharp lines, Curren surfs with a smooth style and clean, precise sinuous lines interspersed with raw power. His original surfing style was influenced by Wayne Bartholomew (1978 world champion) and endless hours spent mastering the waves. Tom Curren maneuvers each wave with deceptive power. He sets his front foot at a 90-degree angle while standing up, tucks his back knee in, and seldom moves his feet while riding a wave. His lines are precise and perfectly blended into the next with each turn. Curren invented the iconic Double-Pump Bottom Turn, which has become the goal for every surfer since. The turn is accomplished by adding a booster second turn at the trough of the wave while climbing toward the board’s lip. The maneuver results in greater torque and rotation during the off-the-top maneuver. Curren’s brilliant surfing technique and languorous bottom turns became the pattern for nearly every young surfer during the 1980s and early 1890s. He “paved the waves” for legendary Kelly Slater and JJF; both surfers mimic Tom’s style, from soulful bottom turns to perfectly positioned arms and effortless transitions. Tom Curren successful surfing career earned him three world titles and 33 event victories. Tom Curren Achievements – The 80’s Tom Curren started impressing the judges at only 14 years old, where he began an astonishing four-year streak in the amateur division, winning the US Surfing Championships in 1978 and 1979. He also won the national and World Championship junior titles in 1980 and followed up with one World Championship victory in the men’s division. In 1981 he participated in the Katin Pro-Am, finishing runner-up to former world pro champion Shaun Tomson, but won the following year. Tom Curren turned pro before his 18th birthday and signed his first sponsorship contracts with Rip Curl and Ocean Pacific. He won the Trestles-hosted Stubbies Pro and the Marui Word Surfing Pro in Japan in 1982 and entering only four of twelve world tour events, Curren finished the year rated #19. Over the next two years, Tom Curren’s rating went from eighth to fourth, helped by his consecutive wins in the Op Pro Championship at Huntington Beach. By mid-decade, the humble and reclusive teenager was an international surfing phenomenon. In his first golden year in 1985, Tom Curren conquered five stages: Foster’s Surf Master Pro, Marui World Surfing Pro, BHP Steel International, Philishave Tracer, and Stubbie’s Surf Classic. He was the first American male surfer to win the world tour since the circuit was founded in 1976. Curren took the championship, defeating Australian rival Mark semi-finals of the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach, which is still regarded as one of the greatest matches in world tour history. Tom Curren joined Martin Potter and Tom Carroll in 1985 to help introduce world politics to surfing by boycotting the world circuit events in South Africa to protest against apartheid. In 1986, Curren went for his send golden year, conquering Marui Japan Open, Gotcha Pro, Lacanau Pro, Foster’s Surf Master Pro, and Stubbie’s US Pro. It seemed as if Curren lost interest in competing between 1987 and 1988, dropping from 5th to 15th in the ratings. He quit the tour in 1989 to spend time with … Read more

Surfing Warm-Up: Proper Preparation

December 17, 2023May 26, 2023 by Luke

Any decent workout begins with a warm-up; the same goes for surfing! It is essential to prepare properly to get the most out of your surfing session, and doing a good stretch will give you all you need to catch some gnarly waves and surf them well. There are multiple reasons why a proper surfing warm-up is necessary, including increased mobility, improved oxygen levels, injury prevention, enhanced muscle temperature, improved energy levels, and mental preparation. These surfing warm-up benefits are essential for improved performance. To get your surfing prep underway, this warm-up focus will equip you with all the information you’ll need to nail your warm-up every time, yielding surprising results when you’re out on the water. How To Warm Up For Surfing: Tips And Techniques For A Safe And Successful Session Some believe they may look like a kook when they warm up before a session, but pro surfers do it all the time before competitions, and it’s genuinely in your best interest to get your pre-session flowing. Also, nobody likes an injury, especially when it’s entirely preventable by trading in ten minutes of your time. Do you want an extra performance boost? Pre-surf warm-ups are your answer, thanks to improved oxygen flow, warmed-up muscles, and increased energy levels. Warm-ups are simple and offer you so many benefits – it’s an opportunity you don’t want to pass up. Warming up doesn’t just prepare your body – your mind gets ready too! Due to increased oxygen flow and the slight exercise you put your body through, your body releases hormones like cortisol and epinephrine, which manage your energy levels before you even begin surfing. In summary, the benefits of a pre-surf warm-up include: injury prevention amplified mobility improved oxygen exchange increased muscle temperature improved energy levels boosted performance mental preparation Tip #1: Take It Easy You might think warm-ups are tedious and energy-consuming, but that is not true. Warm-ups are supposed to be short and non-strenuous. Your prep should only last between five and ten minutes. Surfing warm-ups are yoga-inspired and low-impact but still give your muscles what they need to function when you catch some waves. Warm-ups are not supposed to feel like a workout; you’re probably over-exerting yourself if it feels that way. Relax and focus on getting the movements right instead of doing them as quickly as possible. Feel the flow and enjoy moving your body – you’ll notice how much your warm-up makes a difference once you’re on the water. Tip #2: Focus On Breathing Since yoga is a surf-warmup inspiration, you should get some breathwork into the warm-up mix to facilitate relaxation, proper oxygen flow, and release of necessary hormones. Breathwork also prevents muscle fatigue. When you breathe during warm-ups, you need to inhale through your nose until you feel as if your lungs have reached total capacity, pause briefly, and then exhale through your mouth, slightly forcing it out using your abdomen. Never hold your breath for long periods! You’ll want to follow the ‘exhale on exertion’ rule to ensure you get your breathing right, meaning that you should breathe out when you use the most energy, like when moving a muscle into a strenuous position. So, breathe in as you act out a movement, and exhale when you’ve completed the muscle placement. Tip #3: Warm-Up Key Areas You use your hands, arms, neck, shoulders, spine, abdomen, hips, and legs to surf, which are the key muscle groups you must focus on during a warm-up routine. You should preferably make room for all these muscle groups, but your hands and arms aren’t 100% necessary if you feel impatient. Your core focus should be on your shoulders, spine, hips, and legs, as that’s what you use most, and loosening them up will give you results and prevent serious injury. If you have any particularly stiff muscles, be sure to add them to your warm-up regimen and give extra focus on them as they are injury prone. Pre-Surf Warm-Up: Essential Exercises To Get Your Body Ready A pre-surf warm-up happens outside of the water, as it partially preps you for water temperatures. In-water drills aren’t as necessary as pre-surf ones because they’re more of a practice and water acclimatization than anything else – but we’ll delve further into them in a moment! You can perform your pre-surf regimen on the beach or nearby grass. These following pre-surf warm-ups are the main ones that focus on multiple muscle groups, but you can find others that work just as well. Remember to breathe out when you exert your muscles! Six to eight reps of each warm-up will be sufficient. Neck Rolls Neck rolls help prepare your neck and cervical spine. You start by standing in a proper posture, relaxing your shoulders, and looking forward. Tilt your head to your chest, and roll it until it moves above your shoulder. Rest for a second and roll it back to the center. Then roll it to the left, hold it, and repeat in the opposite direction each time. Torso Twist Keep your arms extended and slightly loose. Sway them all the way right while twisting the top half of your body with them until you’ve turned them as far as possible. Use your left leg while doing this to lean right into the twist. You can dip into a slight squat as you twist past the center of your body. Then you should sway your body and extended arms to the left, using your right leg to lean into it. Repeat from left to right and back again. There should be a seamless flowing movement when you twist from side to side. Spinal Roll Stand up straight. Start inhaling, hunch your shoulders forward, and slowly reach for your toes while rolling your spine along. Once you’ve got as low as possible, you can exhale. Then slowly rise, moving your spine upward, and once you’re back in a standing position, angle your shoulders backward. This movement is all in … Read more

Longboard Surfing Vs Shortboard Surfing

December 11, 2023May 26, 2023 by Luke

An unabating feud has long existed between long- and shortboard surfers ever since shortboards entered the surf scene in the late 1960s. While both have strong arguments supporting their side, we are all essentially doing the same thing – riding the tides! If you’re an aspiring surfer, you may wonder which is right for you. Longboards are more buoyant, stable, and easier to ride. They are ideal for beginners and surfers looking for a laidback surfing experience. Shortboards are designed for high-performance and powerful waves. They are difficult to ride, making them better suited for intermediate and expert riders. Although both longboard and shortboard surfboards belong on the waves, an extra three or four feet of foam can make all the difference. Let’s compare the difference between the two surfboard styles to discover which suits you best. Difference Between Longboard Surfing And Shortboard Surfing The primary difference between a longboard and a shortboard include the length, shape, foam volume, fin setup, surf level, and the wave type they’re intended for. If you want to skip the reading, take a quick scan through the seven main differences: Longboard Surfboard Shortboard Surfboard Length 9ft + 5ft to 7ft Shape Wide, curved outline (rounded nose) Pointer, upturned tip (rocker nose) Foam Volume High Low Fin Setup · A large single central fin · Central fin and two smaller trailer fins on each side Smaller fins with various setups · Twin-fin · Thruster · Quad · Bonza (five fins) Surf Level Beginner + Intermediate + Maneuverability Slow Very Responsive Wave Type · Any wave · The ideal is 1 to 3ft green wave · Large range, but better suited in larger surf · The ideal wave is 2ft+ Now, for those looking for a bit more detail, let’s look at each board. Traditionally, longboards have a height upwards of 9 feet – they should measure at least three feet taller than the surfer’s height. These surfboards feature wide decks, large, rounded noses, and thick foam rails for increased volume. They are typically set up with a single fin but occasionally feature two smaller trailer fins on each side. Shortboards range between 5 to 7 feet in height. They are low volume and feature a pointier shape and thinner foam rails. Shortboards have much smaller fins available in various setups, including twin-fin, thruster, quad, and bonza. Longboard surfboards offer a more laid-back cruising experience. They are easy to paddle, stable, and guarantee to catch more waves and ride them for longer. Longboards are suitable for a range of surfers, from beginners to professionals and avid longboarders. Logging – a common surf term for riding a longboard – has experienced a revival since the shortboard revolution. If you are collecting a quiver of surfboards, adding a classic longboard to your collection is a must! Shortboards are specially designed for speed and high maneuverability; their high turn response makes them ideal for larger, more powerful waves. However, their small size makes them much harder to paddle and balance – they are better suited for intermediate to advanced surfers. Advantages And Disadvantages Of Shortboard Surfing Shortboard surfboards range onto the high-performance spectrum of surfing. The better you understand the surf, the better you can channel the power and speed of a shortboard. Here’s a rundown of a shortboard’s advantages and disadvantages. Advantages Of Shortboard Surfing Here are the top advantages of a shortboard: Performance:It is specially designed for speed, high maneuverability, and high-performance surfing. Size:The small size and light weight make the surfboard easy to transport and store. Duck diving:The shortboard is the easiest to duck dive and get “out the back.” Hollow waves:The shortboard has a more prominent rocker in its nose, making it perfect for steep drop-ins and hollow, barrelling waves. Durability:Shortboards are mostly from epoxy or EPS blanks, making them highly durable. Versatile:They have a wide variety of fin setups – twin-fin, thruster, quad, and bonza. Disadvantages Of Shortboard Surfing Here are the disadvantages of a shortboard: Advanced: Shortboards are the most challenging to surf. They are better suited for intermediate to professional surfers with solid technique. Usability: Shortboards are built for optimal performance. They do not perform well in small, mellow waves. Paddling: The lack of volume makes it harder to paddle. Choosing Between Longboard Surfing And Shortboard Surfing: Factors To Consider From skill level to wave shape and board style, there are various factors that you need to consider when choosing between a longboard and a shortboard. 1. Skill Level What is your skill level? If you’re a beginner, you’ll want to opt for a longboard. It’s easier to ride and more forgiving than a shortboard thanks to its wider, more stable shape. If you’re an advanced surfer, consider getting a more performance-orientated shortboard to help push your limits and grow your skill. 2. Fitness Level You’ll be surprised how big of a role fitness plays in choosing the correct surfboard for the best surfing experience. You don’t want to compromise your wave count on account of your surfing fitness (or rather, your lack thereof). A high-volume longboard adds buoyancy to your surfboard, making it easier to paddle into the lineup. Remember, you still want enough paddle power to catch those waves! As you gain stamina, your paddling and endurance will improve. Stronger paddles allow you to consider switching to a thinner, less buoyant shortboard to enjoy a more performance-based ride. 3. Wave Type What wave type do you enjoy surfing most? Naturally, your skill level will impact the wave types you’re riding. Here’s the best surfboard based on the wave type: Small waves: Longboards with a high volume are best for small, slow waves and for cruising around those ankle biters. Medium waves: You can still have a blast riding a medium wave on a longboard, but you can also consider busting out your performance shortboard. Big waves: Intermediate and advanced surfers should use their shortboards to challenge bigger, hollow waves and to catch a barrel. Most surfers have a … Read more

John John Florence, a Surfing Superstar Pushing the Limits

June 5, 2023May 26, 2023 by Luke

John John Florence is one of the best, most influential surfers of our time. When it comes to progression and pushing the limits in waves of all types and sizes, John is unrivaled. Big waves, small waves, onshore waves, hollow waves, Pipe waves, John is the best in all of them—the ultimate all-rounder. John has performed some of the best surfing ever seen by anyone in waves of consequence, matching it with above-the-lip antics and the smoothest face carves on big open faces you’ll ever see. Few match John as an all-rounder, and fewer still with the diverse accolades to back it. Many professionals have preferences in wave type, size, and shape and have become known for being the best in specific conditions. For instance, Filipe Toledo in small waves or Jack Robinson in big hollow waves. John doesn’t fit that mold and is exceptional in all types of surfing. In this article, we dive into the life of the 2x world champion. We’ll discover where he grew up, how he got so damn good at surfing, and the accolades he has collected throughout his career. We will also check out his personal life, how his family life shaped his surfing, and what John is up to outside of surfing. The man has done a lot and is still only 31 at the time of writing this article, which means we have a lot to get through in the life of John; let’s get down to it. The Early Years of John John Florence John John, or John Florence as he is called now, was born in Honolulu on October 18, 1992. At 6ft 1 and 84kg, he’s grown into a tall, built-out figure, a body shape and figure that translates favorably to today’s speed, power, and flow judging criteria. Florence is well-versed in waves of consequence, which is unsurprising considering where he grew up. John grew up on one of the most notorious stretches of the coast in surfing. The North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The North Shore. A young John was raised with his two younger brothers in a small beachfront property facing directly into the most notorious waves on earth–Pipeline. The heaviest, scariest, and most insanely beautiful wave on earth, but one that has claimed more lives than any other and a break by which all other waves are measured—Johns’s front yard. John was riding waves with his mum as early as six months old and was out surfing by himself by age 5. Yep, five! His mother, Alex, a keen and stylish longboarder herself, introduced John to surfing at an extremely young age, taking him surfing and watching over him as he progressed onto bigger and heavier waves along the stretch known as the seven-mile miracle. John would quickly make a name for himself, becoming that tiny blonde kid, pulling into huge barrels at the North Shore’s most notorious breaks. By age eight, he was surfing Pipeline regularly, standing in huge blue barrels, his long blonde hair falling down his back, getting spit out of waves where multiple young Johns could fit. Magazine photos and clips of young John surfing these waves began to emerge, and he quickly became a stand-out name in surfing circles. He spent years competing in NSSA events across the US. Although he faired poorly compared to other up-and-comers, like Kolohe Andino, he would become the youngest surfer ever to compete in the prestigious Triple Crown of Surfing. The Triple Crown is held at Haleiwa, Sunset, and Pipeline, three events held at the most notable waves on the North Shore–proving a surfer’s ultimate ability on the North Shore (the most important area to master as a professional surfer). John, although eliminated early, competed in these contests aged just 13. The Rise to Fame of John John Florence John soon became a stand-out at waves across the North Shore, and Kelly Slater is quoted saying, “John will go on to develop a deeper knowledge than any one of the North Shore waves,” He was right. Fast forward to today, and John is one of the best to ever surf Pipeline–winning multiple awards and surfing some of the craziest tubes ridden out there. He would go on to qualify for the World Championship Tour, and although his results weren’t bad by most surfer’s standards, he would struggle on tour initially. On his first seasons on tour, he finished; 34th, 4th, 10th, and 14th before winning his first world title in 2016. He went back to back, winning the title again in 2017, becoming the first Hawaiian to win back-to-back titles since Andy Irons. John is also the youngest surfer to win the Triple Crown and has won the notorious Volcom Pipe Pro an incredible four times. In 2011, John won the event in dramatic fashion, in what many call the best final ever. The final was against John’s neighbor and friend–another Pipe specialist called Jamie Obrien (one of the few Pipe surfers that rival John at Pipe). The final was all but done, with Jamie boasting a 19-point heat total and John still needing a huge score. The friends shook hands, and John congratulated his friend with a few seconds to go. Jamie collapsed in celebration off his board, and as he did so, a wave popped up down the reef. John sprint paddles across to it, and Jamie chases him with ten seconds to go! John paddles far across as if to go left at Pipeline, but changes his mind last second, fades right, and gets ridiculously barreled to earn himself 10 points and the Pipe Pro title. In John’s first world title year, he enlisted the help and knowledge of coach and fellow Hawaiian Ross Williams. The pair would develop a training program, work on boards and go into attack mode in heat strategy and mindset. Just before the start of the 2016 season, John won the iconic Eddie Aikua event at 30ft Waimea Bay, beating some of the best big … Read more

Why Don’t Surfers Like Bodyboarding?

July 11, 2023May 18, 2023 by Luke

Surfing and bodyboarding have a well-documented rivalry that’s spanned too long even to remember how it started. Though it’s not as fierce as it used to be, there’s still some animosity occasionally, and nobody can ever say precisely why they feel the way they do. So, why don’t surfers like bodyboarding? Is there even an answer? Some surfers look down on bodyboarding because they see the sport as a less skilled version of surfing. Bodyboarders also add competition in the water since more people are now competing for the perfect waves. Unfortunately, the origins of the rivalry are unclear, so nobody knows how it began. Bodyboarders and surfers want the same thing: the thrill of riding the perfect wave. This makes it strange that surfers often don’t like bodyboarders, but it is an unfortunate fact. Let’s look at the phenomenon more closely to try and find the reasons why. What Is Bodyboarding? Bodyboarding became a commercial sport in 1971, but it was an ancient form of riding waves that, according to most sources, originated with the Polynesian people. It involves riding waves in a prone position on your belly. We know that it dates at least as far back as the 1700s when Captain Cook saw natives of Hawaii riding the waves this way. Today, bodyboarding is an accepted sport that requires a unique board that doesn’t have a ventral fin, so it’s considerably different from a regular surfboard. By all indications, it’s highly possible that bodyboarding (or “Alaia,” as the Polynesian natives called it) predates surfing as we know it today. Why Do Some Surfers Look Down On Bodyboarding? Though nobody can tell for sure, there are two reasons that surfers often quote when asked why they don’t like bodyboarders. The first is a matter of skill. Surfers tend to look at bodyboarding as a low-skill sport compared to surfing. Since bodyboarders don’t stand upright, they don’t have to learn to maintain balance and stand up on a moving board, which makes it seem like an inferior sport. Their second point is that bodyboarders make it more difficult for surfers to ride the perfect wave, and they make the sea more crowded and add competition for the waves. Waves are not like skateboarding tubes – they come and go. Some are great, and others are complete duds. When the beach is crowded with people looking to ride the waves, the perfect ones are harder to find and get to on time. When we consider the perception that surfers see bodyboarding as inferior, it makes sense that they will see the competition as unfair and feel that bodyboarders are “taking up space.” How Are Surfing And Bodyboarding Different? The main difference between surfing and bodyboarding is the position. Surfing requires standing while riding the waves, while bodyboarding is done in a prone position. But this simple difference makes a big difference. First of all, bodyboarding is far more accessible than surfing. While there are children that surf, they are few and tend to be closer to their teenage years. Bodyboarding is accessible to anyone, including very young children. It also means that bodyboards require far less maintenance and attention than surfboards – you don’t have to polish them, for example. They are also much smaller and easier to transport. Becoming a bodyboarder is much easier than a surfer since standing up on a surfboard requires considerable skill. On the other hand, surfing gives you access to much larger waves than bodyboarding, making many consider surfing more fun. Can Bodyboarding Be A Good Way To Learn How To Surf? Depending on your skill level, age, size, and balance, bodyboarding can be the ideal way to progress to surfing. Many surfing schools start newbies off on a bodyboard instead of a surfboard, especially young children. This helps newcomers to learn the basics of riding waves and become familiar with the ocean and the types of waves. Some people find it easiest to just skip straight to surfing, so it will vary from person to person, but bodyboarding is generally considered an excellent starting point. The History Of The Surfing Vs. Bodyboarding Rivalry It’s unclear exactly how the rivalry began, but looking at history (and understanding human nature), we can make some educated guesses. We know that bodyboarding originated before surfing, but when surfing started among the Polynesian people, it was the royalty who would stand upright on their boards. This led to modern surfers referring to surfing as the “sport of kings,” It remained that way for many years because of the amount of skill required to surf, and it was an elite sport that only a select few could do. Then, in the 1970s, a massive influx of people braved the waves on their smaller bodyboards that required less skill. Suddenly, the surfers found their “kingdom” challenged by a commercial hit – bodyboarding. Anyone could do it, and everyone did, which made surfing “cheap” in some people’s eyes. Tom Morey, the man who commercialized bodyboarding, was a surfer himself, but he wanted to bring a type of surfing to the people who couldn’t surf. It’s a noble goal, and it was massively successful, but the “elite” members of the surfing community did not take kindly to this. The good news is that the rivalry is less pronounced than it used to be, and more and more surfers are starting to support bodyboarding and living in peace with bodyboarders, even if they will never touch a bodyboard. Tips For Bodyboarders Who Want To Surf Bodyboarding helps to prepare you for surfing since you learn to read waves and understand the water. However, surfing requires many additional skills that bodyboarding won’t teach you. So, if you’re planning to switch to surfing, here are some tips that can help you do that: It’s all about progression. You might be able to get on a surfboard and find your feet pretty quickly, but that’s not how it usually goes. … Read more

Which Is Harder: Kitesurfing Or Surfing?

December 17, 2023May 18, 2023 by Luke

Let’s face it, kitesurfing and controlling a kite and a board simultaneously looks harder than surfing. Although, we all know that appearances can be deceiving. According to sports enthusiasts who have tried both water sports, surfing is harder than kitesurfing. Surfing takes longer to master and demands greater physical strength and energy to paddle to the waves. Surfing is also far more dependent on optimal surfing conditions than kitesurfing. If you want to know what kitesurfing and surfing’s main difference and challenges are, including their optimal wind requirements, safety considerations, advantages, disadvantages, and similarities, and determine which sport is best for you – read on! Exploring The Differences And Challenges Of Both Water Sports Apart from their equipment and varying skill sets, the overriding difference between kitesurfing and surfing is that the latter is far more dependent on optimal surfing conditions. Kite surfers don’t need great waves, and they can enjoy their sport more often, even in rough conditions that are not ideal for surfing, if it’s windy enough. However, kitesurfing is expensive as it requires a kite, bar, seat harness, safety leash, door board, and added extras like water shoes and a wet suit, with added maintenance and replacement costs to factor in. Surfing is far more affordable as you can pick up a budget-friendly board and a leash for under $400, and you’re ready to hit the waves. The Main Differences Whereas both kitesurfing and surfing are both ocean-based water sports, that’s where their similarities end as they are entirely different water sports for the following reasons: Kitesurfing requires wind, while surfing needs waves. Kiteboards tend to be sturdier than surfboards, especially fiberboards. Kitesurfing can be enjoyed on flat water surfaces like lakes, unlike surfing which requires waves. Physical Strength And Endurance Even though kitesurfing may be exhausting until you learn to use the wind to your advantage, it requires far less strength and physical fitness than surfing. Although, that does not mean you won’t get a full-body workout. Surfing is a high-intensity sport as you must paddle to catch waves and return to reach the peak. It requires much more physical strength and energy than kitesurfing. Training There is a consensus that kitesurfing is easier to learn than surfing. However, it does take time to master the art of flying a kite and riding on a board at the same time. Compared with surfing, which takes far more time to learn, kite surfers with the right equipment can stay upright and hit the waves after roughly 12 hours of coaching. And, with a few added practice hours, feel completely at ease. Wind Conditions The ideal surfing conditions for the best, sustained waves are when there is no wind or a very light offshore wind that blows in the direction of the ocean. Although, it should come as no surprise that prime kitesurfing wind conditions are 15-25 knots, with 12 knots being the minimum wind strength. And the wind direction is also crucial in kitesurfing as it should blow from side to shore or from a side to onshore direction. Even though it is true that somewhat offshore winds result in better waves, they can be risky and pull inexperienced surfers into the ocean. Key Safety Considerations According to research, kitesurfing is far riskier than surfing, backed up by the high number of serious accidents yearly. Kitesurfing Safety Considerations Here are a few kitesurfing safety considerations to mitigate all those risks: Check the weather forecast before you go kiting. Maintain your equipment, and don’t use secondhand gear. Familiarize yourself with how your safety gear works and carry a side cutter. Accept that you may lose or damage your kit in an emergency. Surfing Safety Precautions Even though surfing is less risky, here are a few safety precautions to prevent injuries: Add a protective nose guard to an existing board or invest in a new one with a blunt nose and flexible fins. Use a wetsuit to avoid seabed abrasions and provide sun protection and buoyancy. Most importantly, always wear leg ropes, particularly when surfing massive waves. Kitesurfing Vs Surfing: Advantages And Disadvantages Kitesurfing’s most significant advantage is that it offers many more opportunities than surfing, as you don’t have to wait for stellar waves. However, you may need to wait for favorable winds. Additionally, kiteboards are more versatile as you can achieve greater heights and speeds than on a surfboard. However, apart from the cost, kitesurfing’s biggest disadvantage is that the equipment may get damaged, and your beachside prep time will take longer before you can hit the waves. In stark contrast, your surfing beachside setup is far more time and cost-efficient than kitesurfing. But surfing’s most significant downsides are that you will need to wait for the best waves and compete with tuns of other surfers in the process. Are There Any Similarities Between Kitesurfing And Surfing? Contrary to belief, there are some similarities between these two water sports. Most notably, they rely on directional boards to assist airborne riders. Another similarity, compared to traditional wooden boards, is that they both use boards equipped with foam props that allow for a much smoother ride when airborne. Can You Transition From One Sport To The Other? Even though most folks assume that transitioning from surfing to kitesurfing is a breeze, that is not always the case, as they require different skill sets. However, any board sport like surfing that needs board control will be helpful. Learning how to handle a kite and a board simultaneously will take time if you want to master kitesurfing. What Factors Should You Consider When Choosing Between Kitesurfing and Surfing? Kitesurfing is an excellent option if you don’t have budget constraints, live near a windy beach, are in relatively good shape, and want a quick learning curve. Although surfing is preferable if your local beach is wind-free … Read more

What Is A Duck Dive In Surfing?

December 17, 2023May 18, 2023 by Luke

You might be new to surfing and unfamiliar with terms like “duck dive” and “turtle roll,” or perhaps you’ve heard about them but never practiced them before. In truth, these two techniques will change how you surf forever and make it much easier to paddle to the lineup! So, what is a duck dive, and should you duck dive or turtle roll? A duck dive is a surfing technique that enables a surfer to dive underneath an oncoming wave and more easily paddle out to a lineup. Duck diving is better for big waves and surfboards with less volume, while turtle rolling works well for smaller waves and surfboards with lower volume. Let’s break down the differences between duck diving and turtle rolling, discuss the benefits and drawbacks of each technique, and go over a step-by-step guide on how to do them. We’ll also cover handy tips for improving these techniques and discuss why they are essential to your surfing toolkit! What Is A Duck Dive In Surfing? A duck dive is a technique that surfers use to safely navigate through oncoming waves when paddling out to the lineup, which is the area where the waves break, and surfers wait for the perfect waves to ride. What Are The Benefits And Drawbacks Of Duck Diving? There are significant advantages to mastering duck diving, but it also comes with its drawbacks. Here are the essential benefits and drawbacks you need to know! Benefits: Duck diving allows you to efficiently navigate through oncoming waves that would other push you back and allows you to keep paddling out to the lineup so you can get into position for the next ride. You’ll conserve a lot of energy by avoiding waves that may push you back toward the shore. Maintaining control of your board is easier, meaning there’s less risk of wipeouts and collisions with other surfers. You avoid long swims back to the beach in case your leash breaks. Drawbacks: Duck diving demands a lot of strength and stamina, especially when it comes to large waves. It takes some practice, especially for new surfers. You must time the oncoming wave perfectly, or you will lose momentum and get pushed back. If you do not duck dive properly, you’ll damage your surfboard. Incorrectly pressing on your board can create pressure dings, delamination, or snap your board. How Do You Duck Dive? While duck diving will take some practice before you master it, here are the steps you need to know: When you see an oncoming wave, increase your paddle speed before you duck dive to ensure you have enough momentum to dive underwater and back out of the wave. Using your hands, push the nose of your board nose-first under the water, with your hands in a push-up position and by your side holding on to the rails. With your hands in a push-up position and holding onto the board’s rails, push the board’s nose under the water. Make sure to push it nose-first to reduce resistance. Slide your foot up and underneath you so that it’s on the tail of your board, and use it to push down – while still pushing down on your board’s nose with your hands. Once you and your board are successfully under the wave, release your legs, slide your hands toward your board’s nose, and perform a frog kick to give you a boost of speed to the surface. Tips For Improving Your Duck Dive Paddle hard to gain enough speed so that you can get deep enough for the water’s cylindrical effect to pull you back up to the surface. If you’re going too slow, your board won’t submerge properly, and it will start to wobble and want to surface because of its natural buoyancy. Duck dive as close to the wave as possible so that you can dive underneath the whitewater rather than getting slammed by the force of the water. You must extend and push your board forward after duck diving; otherwise, it may pull you back. Most Common Mistakes Surfers Make When Duck Diving Don’t stop paddling in fear when you see a wave approaching you; you must keep paddling to gather momentum and push through. When you push down the nose of your board, remember to push down the tail, or your backside will remain stuck in the air, and the wave will push you back. Your average board and leash are both 6 feet, plus your body makes 18 feet. Don’t let go of your board because you have about an 18-foot strike range to hit other surfers, so watch your surroundings. What Is A Turtle Roll In Surfing? A turtle roll is a technique that surfers use to maneuver under an oncoming wave and prevent it from pushing them back. It allows them to reach the lineup – the place where waves form – to catch the perfect wave. What Are The Benefits And Drawbacks Of Turtle Rolling? Turtle rolling can be an effective way to hold onto your position in a lineup and save energy, but this technique has benefits and drawbacks. Benefits: You can more easily navigate through larger waves that are too difficult to duck dive. It helps you to conserve energy preventing you from having to paddle around the wave. You’ll avoid getting pushed back and maintain your position in the lineup. It’s an effective alternative to duck diving if you’re a beginner or find it hard to duck dive. Drawbacks: ou must have good timing and technique to avoid getting caught by the wave and tossed around underwater. It can be challenging especially when the water is turbulent, or the wind is howling. If you don’t do it properly, your board can hit and injure you, or the wave will drag you under. If you let your board go, it can injure other nearby or unaware surfers. It’s less efficient than a duck dive because you don’t go as … Read more

The World of Dog Surfing: You Need to Know

December 10, 2023May 18, 2023 by Luke

The new world of dog surfing is actually old. Not surprising since we’ve got water rescue dogs, some that even leap out of helicopters. But not all canines take a splash out of loyalty and dedication. Some dogs love water: with four legs and a low center of gravity, it’s relatively easy for them to hang ten. Dog surfing has become increasingly popular since 2006 when the first significant competition was held in California. But dogs have been recorded taking part in surfing since the 1920s. Some famous dog surfing pioneers are Spot, Night Hawk, Rusty, and Max. Surfing isn’t for every pup. Some have a more stereotypical cat attitude when it comes to water. Others might adore getting wet but do not enjoy the sensation of the “ground” shifting under their paws. But for some dogs, surfing is more fun than going for a walk. Thus, we’re taking you back to the canine who started it all and how you can tell if surfing is right for your best friend. Is Dog Surfing Real? Exploring The History And Origins Of This Exciting Sport Dog surfing is real, from dogs hitting the waves solo to sharing with their human. In 2016, The World Dog Surfing Championships debuted in Pacifica, California. But don’t be fooled; while dog surfing as a competitive sport is relatively recent, as a pastime, it’s been around for nearly a century. Sons Of The Surf Films The Dog Spot Surfing In 1926 In 1926, the documentary Sons of the Surf recorded surfers on the Hawaii island of Oahu at Waikiki Beach. It wasn’t the first filmed documentary of Hawaiian surf culture. In 1906, Thomas A. Edison shot “Hawaiian Islands,” displaying surfers using both arms simultaneously to paddle. But a unique surfer was introduced five minutes into the Son of the Surf: a dog named Spot. On The Waves At Waikiki Films Terrier Night Hawk In 1932 But Spot wasn’t the only dog on Oahu Island with the surf bug. Around 1932, a new silent documentary was released called The Waves At Waikiki featuring a terrier named Night Hawk hanging 10 to the delight of his owner Phillip K. Auna. Rusty And Max Take Dog Surfing To The US Mainland Four-pawed surfing gradually made it to the mainland. Legendary surf photographer Doc Ball snapped Jim Baily and his cocker Spaniel Rusty surfing at Hermosa Beach in 1946. The photograph was later featured in Life Magazine. “Movie gal gave him that dog,” Doc told Malcolm Gault-Williams in 1998. The photo made it to Europe, where the English public “were all over me about torturing that little dog.” But Doc disagrees with their assessment, saying the dog would “scratch your ears off trying to get on your board.” But the dog that made it to the big time was Max, a terrier owned by Dave “DC” Chalmers. The duo was featured in films, TV shows, and many surf magazines in the 70s and early 80s. But the pair are best known for their stint in Those Amazing Animals. 2006: Dog Surf Competitions Become A Thing Dog surfing competitions are still relatively new despite dogs participating in the sport since the 1920s. The first big dog surfing competition was held in California in 2006, sponsored by TasteTV. The event was popular and led to the 2009 book The Dog’s Guide To Surfing, now in its 5th Edition. The book legitimized the sport, and more competitions followed. Thus, by 2011, fifty dogs took to the waves at the Loews Coronado Bay Result Dog Competition, and dogs were split into three categories: Small, Medium, and Large. There were also two tandem categories: dog + dog and dog + human. In addition, safety equipment began to be mandated, such as requiring dogs to wear a life jacket or vest. 2016 brought the sport to The World Dog Surfing Championships. Come 2017, mainstream news caught on to the action, and coverage included NPR and Good Morning America. They now have social media accounts, including @worlddogsurfing on IG and Twitter. Alas, the 2017 World’s winner Abbie Girl is no longer with us. But her Instagram account can still be viewed by fans. Do Dogs Enjoy Surfing? Understanding The Science Behind Canine Water Sports Some dogs do enjoy surfing. Dogs, like many domesticated animals, have been bred for various tasks. Some breeds have historically been used to retrieve waterfowl for hunters. Thus, these canine friends take to water much like a duck. Others, not so much. But unlike ducks, dogs don’t instinctively know how to swim, although many seem to figure it out almost instantaneously. However, all dogs use a similar “dog paddle,” according to a study by West Chester University biologist Frank Fish. His research showed that the “swimming gate” resembled that of a trot. In addition, dogs use the same type of “trot” despite the fact that they don’t all have the same walking gait. The gait unused by dogs in swimming brings the legs up close to the body after the forward stroke. The tucking of the leg reduces drag, allowing the “pull” to bring them further than if they used their land gait. Thus, the reason some dogs struggle in water is not due to different doggie paddle styles but due to their proportions. For example, short legs and long bodies will struggle. In addition, dogs with flatter faces have a harder time keeping their nose and eyes clear of water than those with a more classic face, as found on a Golden Retriever or Labrador. Dogs with thick and heavy coats will also have difficulty staying afloat. But your best friend doesn’t have to be built like a champion waterfowl retriever to enjoy surfing. However, they do need to love getting wet. How To Play Dog Surfing: Tips, Tricks, And Best Practices For Keeping Your Pup Safe Before introducing your dog to surfing, you need to ensure your dog enjoys water play. Some dogs simply hate it or, like Chihuahuas, their … Read more

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