Surf Spots for the Best Waves Around the World

Banzai Pipeline: Hawaii’s Iconic North Shore Wave

November 25, 2025November 12, 2025 by Luke

If there is a wave most filmed and photographed in the world, it is the Banzai Pipeline. Considered one of the most competitive waves on the planet, it is the birthplace of tube riding and the spot that gave name to an esteemed surfing contest – the Pipeline Masters. For over 50 years, Pipeline has been the beating heart of winter surfing in Hawaii. Every season, thousands of surfers travel to the North Shore for a chance to experience its world-class power, its perfect-but-deadly tubes, and its undeniable place in surf lore. What’s behind the most iconic waves in surfing history? Let’s unravel the mystery that wraps the barrelling waves and difficult conditions daredevils sought after. Below follows a complete breakdown of the history, geology, surf conditions, dangers, competitions, and FAQs surrounding Pipeline. Origin Of The Name – Banzai Pipeline Inspired by the ancient Samurai’s commitment to suicide over capture, the Japanese government during the Pacific Wars in 1941 taught its soldiers it was far more honorable to die than to surrender. The battle cry for this act – “Tennōheika Banzai,” which translates to “long live his majesty, the emperor,” knew far too well this cry and the attack that accompanied it. This battle cry was usually shortened to just “Banzai!” during those instances due to time constraints. What does it have to do with the world’s famous surf site, you ask? After the war, several surviving American soldiers settled in Hawaii. The GIs first named the long stretch of Oahu’s north shore as “Banzai Beach.” Apparently, it was because of the deadly-looking huge waves that regularly pound on its shore. Fast forward to 1961, two visiting Californian surfers – Phil Edwards and Mike Diffenderfer paddled out and caught what are widely acknowledged as the first-ever waves ever ridden at Banzai Beach. The following day, the two came back to the surf spot with Endless Summer director Bruce Brown. Brown captured the ensuing session. Most of what he got that day was included in his 1962 film Surfing Hollow Days. As they were leaving the beach, Diffenderfer spotted a series of gigantic concrete pipes used on a nearby building site. He noted their similarity to the waves he had just been surfing and suggested to Brown that the spot be named Pipeline. Geological Formation of Pipeline’s Reef The power and shape of the Banzai Pipeline come from its unique volcanic reef structure, formed thousands of years ago during Oahu’s volcanic activity. The reef’s jagged edges and uneven coral shelves sit extremely close to the surface, forcing swells to rise quickly and pitch into perfect, hollow cylinders. Pipeline’s reef includes: A shallow plateau that causes the sudden, vertical takeoff Deep caverns that trap and release air, creating explosive boils A sharp drop-off immediately past the impact zone This geological setup makes Pipeline both unbelievably photogenic and notoriously dangerous. No machine-made wave pool can replicate the combination of power, precision, and raw chaos created by this reef. Banzai Pipeline – The Queen of All Waves Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore is the “happenin’” place to be. It has one of the most impressive and notorious waves in the world. This picture-perfect surfer’s dream is a reef break located in Hawaii, on Oahu’s North Shore. The break is situated off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea. The massive hollow tubes that break over a sharp and shallow reed is one of the most dangerous waves in the world – but is also one of the most sought after. The deadly waves of blue cylinders sent hundreds of athletes to hospital beds and even claimed the lives of several other riders. Some of those who braved the Pipeline but didn’t come out alive were Andy Chuda in 1989, Travis Mussleman in 2000, Moto Watanabe in 2004, Jon Mozo and Malik Joyeux in 2005, Joaquin Velila in 2007, and Joshua Nakata in 2008. Aside from being notoriously deadly, Banzai Pipeline also became a famous symbol of surfing thanks to its world-renowned competitions, surf film appearances, and all the surfers who earned their chops riding its waves. Under the Pipeline reefs are large caverns. Massive air bubbles rise from the caverns as the wave breaks over these reefs. These create the perfect wave crests that Banzai is famous for. Moreover, the steep takeoffs and the really heavy waves are tremendous rewards for the surfers who get it right. Banzai Pipeline has many faces that include a series of different reefs spaced out in gradually deeper parts of the ocean. The size of the incoming swell usually tells the reef that breaks. The breaks include for different waves: Pipeline or the First Reef – The left break of the Pipeline and the most popular and famous wave. This is usually the closest break to the shore. Backdoor Pipeline – This Pipeline is a right break that occurs when a north swell hits the first reef. The north swell triggers an A-frame at the peak. Then the left break starts to close out. Backdoor is the right break of this. Second Reef – This is further out in the ocean after the First Reef. It is a more profound wave that breaks when the swell gets more extensive. These waves reach somewhere around 12 feet and above. The Second Reef is famous for its more giant waves and longer walls. Third Reef – The most intimidating Pipeline break is the Third Reef. This wave only breaks in massive conditions, resulting in some colossal waves. The Third Reef is the most profound break. Best Conditions for Surfing Pipeline Pipeline is a left-hander that performs best under specific conditions: Best swell direction: west-northwest (WNW) northwest (NW) Best winds: light trade winds or offshore winds Best season: October to March (peak: November–February) Ideal wave size: Pipeline’s classic vision is the white lip throwing over into a perfectly cylindrical barrel—followed by a violent closeout over shallow reef if things go wrong. The best size of waves to surf the Pipeline is … Read more

7 Best Surf Spots in Tasmania; Shipstern Bluff

December 11, 2023July 20, 2023 by Luke

best surf spots east coast tasmania, australia

The often-forgotten island of Tasmania is located to the south of Australia’s mainland. Depending on which borders of this small island are considered, the island can be said to be either surrounded by the Southern Ocean, or to have the Pacific on its east and the Indian to its west. Home to some of the most remote surf spots in the world, and the notoriously ferocious wave at Shipstern Bluff (location of Red Bull Cape Fear 2021) Tasmania’s East Coast has become a sought-after destination for surfers from Australia, and across the world. Its pristine beaches, breathtaking coastal landscapes, and consistent swells create a paradise for both novice and experienced wave enthusiasts. The East Coast of Tasmania has long been renowned for its natural splendor. It is also gaining global recognition as an exceptional haven for surfers. With its uncrowded breaks, consistent waves, and awe-inspiring scenery, this region attracts both seasoned professionals and enthusiastic beginners alike. Whether you are seeking to conquer the waves or catch your first ride, the East Coast of Tasmania promises an experience tailored to your skills and preferences. From the picturesque town of Bicheno to the untouched beauty of Friendly Beaches, each location possesses a unique charm accompanied by suitable surfing conditions. In this article, we will showcase the top seven surfing spots on Tasmania’s East Coast, a comprehensive guide to help surfers explore this stunning region while catching remarkable waves. So, prepare your surf trip and embark on an unforgettable surfing adventure! Bicheno Bicheno, situated on Tasmania’s East Coast, boasts a breathtaking coastal setting and a relaxed atmosphere that enthralls surfers. Whether you’re new to the sport or an experienced wave rider, Bicheno offers waves suitable for all skill levels, making it an exceptional destination. Surfers worldwide are drawn to renowned surf breaks like Redbill Beach and Shipstern Bluff in this area. Shipstern Bluff, in particular, is revered for its colossal and challenging waves, providing an exhilarating experience for seasoned big wave surfers. For those seeking adventure, Bicheno guarantees an unforgettable surfing escapade with its picturesque beauty and diverse wave options. It truly is a must visit gem along Tasmania’s captivating East Coast. Scamander Scamander remains a hidden gem cherished among surfers of all levels. It’s well-kept secret status ensures consistent swells and unspoiled, expansive beaches that enthrall those seeking tranquility in their surf experience. Nestled amidst untouched natural beauty, Scamander offers an array of breaks suitable for both beginners and advanced riders, catering to diverse skill levels. From those aiming to refine their abilities to seekers of carefree aquatic enjoyment, Scamander’s unwavering waves create an idyllic setting. The laid-back ambiance and pristine surroundings complete the package, providing an unparalleled escape for those yearning for a one-of-a-kind rejuvenating surf adventure. Immerse yourself in the untouched beauty of Scamander and discover why it’s a coveted destination for surfers looking to connect with nature and catch some memorable waves. Four Mile Creek Four Mile Creek stands as a distinctive surfing destination along the East Coast of Tasmania. This secluded spot entices experienced surfers, lured by its powerful waves and challenging conditions that promise an adrenaline rush. Surrounded by exquisite natural beauty, Four Mile Creek offers a haven of solitude and tranquility that heightens its irresistible charm. As the waves here possess intensity, it is imperative to possess adequate skills and experience to navigate them safely. However, for those willing to embrace the challenge, the rewards are vast and unforgettable rides amidst raw nature found in only a few places. St Helens Point Surfers seeking awe inspiring coastal vistas and consistent waves should not overlook the wonders of St Helens Point. This renowned destination is celebrated for its exceptional surf breaks, encompassing both reef breaks and point breaks that promise exhilarating rides. Combining heart-pounding wave action with breathtaking scenery, St Helens Point ensures an unforgettable surfing experience. Surrounded by unspoiled beaches and pristine azure waters, this location serves as a sanctuary for surfers and nature enthusiasts. Whether in pursuit of thrilling surf sessions or simply desiring to immerse oneself in the splendor of the surroundings, St Helens Point surpasses expectations on all counts. Friendly Beaches For surfers in search of a remote and untouched surf spot, Friendly Beaches is a true hidden gem. Located within the captivating Freycinet National Park, this pristine coastal stretch offers an unparalleled surfing experience. Its consistent surf conditions and world class waves attract enthusiasts from near and far. However, it’s essential to note that tackling these waves requires advanced skills due to their challenging nature. The combination of powerful waves and untouched natural beauty provides a truly exceptional surfing adventure. If you’re seeking an unforgettable challenge, Friendly Beaches is your destination. Immerse yourself in the raw beauty of this secluded paradise and let the waves transport you into a world of pure surfing bliss. Swanwick Beach Situated amidst breathtaking coastal landscapes, Swanwick Beach emerges as a haven for surfers that seamlessly blends convenience with a welcoming atmosphere suitable for families. This exceptional locale caters to surf enthusiasts of all ages and proficiency levels, enabling them to revel in the exhilarating waves. Beginners are afforded ample space along the extended stretch of sandy shoreline to refine their skills while seasoned surfers can explore breaks tailored to their preferences. The idyllic setting of Swanwick Beach ensures a tranquility filled surfing experience, making it an ideal choice for both families and those yearning for a leisurely day immersed in aquatic bliss. Whether one seeks the thrill of riding their inaugural wave or simply desires to bask in the allure of sun kissed shores, Swanwick Beach offers an inviting sanctuary where everyone can relish the joyous pursuit of surfing. Marion Bay Marion Bay, situated on Tasmania’s East Coast, is a thriving surfing destination that boasts pristine beach breaks and consistently favorable swells. It attracts not only local wave enthusiasts but also visitors in search of exceptional surf conditions combined with breathtaking natural beauty. Surrounded by dazzling coastal landscapes, surfers are treated to challenging waves and exhilarating … Read more

Discovering the World’s Most Remote Surf Spots

December 11, 2023July 18, 2023 by Luke

If you’ve been surfing for a while, especially if you’ve made friends, you have likely gone to someone’s secret remote surfing spot or found your own. Though being remote is not a prerequisite for having a secret surf spot, it sure does help ensure you won’t compete too much. Though some of the places we list below may not be as secret anymore, they are still some of the most remote surf spots in the world. Some of the most remote surf spots you can visit include the Skeleton Bay area in Namibia, Unstad Beach in Norway, Cloudbreak in Fiji, and more. Some of these remote spots may require extra safety, special equipment, or transportation, which is best to consider before you go. When visiting a remote surf spot, it is best to know how to prepare yourself, when to go, and what you will need. Before you get too excited and jump onto the first plane leaving for Namibia, you should research the different beaches, when the best time is to go, and what you may need to visit them, all things we can help you with below. Why Do Surfers Seek Out Remote Spots? For many surfers having a surfing spot that is a challenge to get to is a great way to ensure you won’t have too much competition for waves. There is also something special about knowing that you, and maybe your few friends, are the only people for miles. While the seclusion and freedom you can feel from surfing in a remote spot are rewarding enough, it is also thrilling to experience different types of waves in other areas, discover new remote locations, and sometimes the water is just better. Many areas you may travel to while searching for your top remote breaks will also allow you to experience people, food, and culture you may not be familiar with. Though this may seem scary to some, having different experiences in places you barely know can also be exciting. This element is another reason many surfers find remote spots to experience the ocean and surrounding areas. Off The Coast of Africa: Skeleton Bay, Namibia Skeleton Bay, near Walvis Bay in Namibia, is one of the most fantastic surf spots known to man and one of the world’s most remote. Breaking over a sand bottom, the left-hand beach-breaking waves you will find here can give you a ride on one of the world’s longest waves that can last you multiple minutes if you’re experienced. Access To access the waves, you will need to walk back to where you started after each ride since four-wheel-drive vehicles are not allowed on the beach here, and getting to the beach itself can take some time, effort, and money since you will be navigating the ever-changing desert sands once you leave Walvis Bay. Best Time The best time in the year to go to Skeleton Bay is between June and September, though you should always plan your trips as far ahead as possible to ensure you get there when you need. Since this area has strange weather patterns, air travel to this location can be difficult and untrustworthy, with some flights not landing at Walvis Bay but in Windhoek instead. Accommodation With this in mind, there are accommodation options in Walvis Bay, which is the closest you will get to the skeleton bay area, and if you can, it may be best to organize transport to the beach ahead of time. Arctic Waters: Unstad Beach, Norway Unstad Beach is another brilliant area that qualifies as one of the most remote surf spots in the world. This beach has four main breaks, allowing anyone to surf, from a first-timer to an experienced surfer, though the two most significant things you need to be aware of are the strong rip currents and the rocks you can find here. Access You can get relatively close to the water by driving, and the parking is close to the beach. You won’t have to carry your gear too far, though getting here may take some time from the nearest airport, and you may have to use a ferry. Best Time However, something to remember is that Norway has long stretches of near-complete darkness, making the best time to surf here between September and November. Considerations With this in mind, though Unstad is relatively small and secluded, there are a few places where you can stay in the village. Still, booking your accommodation in advance may be best to ensure you get a spot since even remote surf spots may get a bit more crowded during certain times. The South Pacific: Cloudbreak, Fiji Not far from the main island of Fiji, you will find a small island called Tavarua, which hosts a resort surrounded by some of the most remote surf spots in the world, though Cloudbreak is the one we are discussing for now. Waves Cloudbreak is not only one of the most remote surf spots in the world but repeatedly ranks in the top 10 for the world’s best and most challenging breaks. Though the waves here look amazing, they are wild and unpredictable, and since they flow over a shallow reef, there is a severe risk of injury if you are not careful. Access If you decide to stay at the resort that is on Tavarua Island, you should be able to get to Cloudbreak simply by swimming or paddling. However, if you are a bit further away, at any of the numerous accommodations, you may need to look into hiring a boat or water vehicle to get you there if you want to save your energy. Considerations Before heading towards Cloudbreak, one last consideration is that you genuinely are remote if you want to surf here. If, for any reason, you get badly injured and need proper medical attention, the closest hospital is a few hours away. The Middle East: The Empty Quarter, Oman More than just being a particular surf spot, … Read more

The Best Longboard Surfing Waves in the World

July 20, 2023June 28, 2023 by Luke

There is something magical about giant waves that seem as tall as mountains and the surfers who dare challenge them. Some surfers spend their lives seeking out the best longboard surfing waves in the world. The best longboard surfing waves in the world are Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, Noosa Heads in Australia, Malibu in California, Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, Scorpion Bay in Baja California Mexico, San Onofre in California, Mahala Warf in Maui, Ditch Plains in Montauk, New York and Sunset Beach in Oahu. Before setting out on an expedition, you should know as much as possible about each area and what to expect from the waves. Being well prepared is crucial as it could be dangerous going in blind. The Best Longboard Surfing Waves in the World When using a longboard, it offers perfect stability and balance of speed, causing them to be the ideal board for use on more giant waves. Longboards are a traditional style of surfboard and are used more commonly. Longer boards are better for beginner surfers who prefer that surfing style. Longboards are much more stable, allowing beginners the stability needed to learn how to balance while being on a surfboard, and learning to paddle out through the break. Longboards make paddling and catching waves easier because of their length and volume. The longer the board, the better it is for dropping into big waves and swells. Choosing The Right Wave as a Beginner Choosing the right wave when you’re a beginner longboarder is essential for your safety. Initially, it may be hard to distinguish. Still, only some waves are safe for beginner longboarders. The best waves for when you’re just beginning will have a gentle slope. It will give you much time to paddle to and catch the wave before it breaks on the shore. Look for waves that break at least 100 meters from shore. Waikiki Beach, Hawaii Surfing is an ancient sport. It is so old that its beginning cant be found. There was no written language in ancient Polynesia since history and legend were handed down by word from parents to their kids. This interchange was in the form of chants called Meles in Hawaii. There is plenty of evidence from the references in these chants. The art of surf riding was the most common Polynesian sport. It was practiced in different forms, from New Zealand to Hawaii, the Pacific region, and Easter Island to New Guinea. Why Are Hawaiian Waves Good for Longboards If you are at North Shore and the weather is reasonable, you may see some giant waves. These waves during winter can reach up to twenty feet tall or two stories high. Big waves are what you want to see since they are perfect for longboards. In Hawaii, they measure the height of the wave from the back, meaning the surfers of north shore surf waves that have forty-foot faces or higher. Noosa Heads, Australia Noosa Points in Australia are popular for waves that always break in the same line and speed. It has sandy bottoms, 100m breaks, and long rocky points, which makes these s few of the best point breaks. The points are Little Cove, First Point, Granite Bay, Boiling Pot, and Tea Tree Bay. You should take advantage of these spots when the surf is up. Noosa is famous due to its clean waves and sheltered water. Longboarding at Noosa Heads Noosa Heads is a beautiful beach that will have you surfing 200 meters on a wave, giving you sufficient time to enjoy your surroundings and longboard rides. The best time to take out your longboard and head there is from December to April since it’s summertime. Tips For Surfing Learning how to surf with a longboard is the primary step to being able to surf like a pro. You must learn longboard surfing basics before surfing big waves like at Noosa Heads. These are essential things to know before longboarding: Fading – Using this move will add style to your techniques. Leash Selection – It is ideal to avoid a leash. Still, if you are not secure enough to longboard without a leash, it is better to get a leash attached to your upper calf. Trimming – Trimming will save you from slowing down and suddenly stopping. It will also keep the longboard’s nose above the waves rather than under them. Cross-Stepping – Before you can cross-step, you need to be able to perform trimming. Nose Riding – Cross-stepping will bring you closer to the nose of the board. When five or ten of your toes are hanging off the nose of the board, you are nose riding. Why Is Noosa So Popular for Longboarding Noosa’s reputation as a world-class longboarding area is backed up by its status as a World Surfing Reserve. Regarding natural beauty, Noosa’s Natural Park also has four thousand hectares of bushland. The Waves are practically in a league on their own. Since the waves at Noosa are high, it makes it perfect for longboarding. The bigger the wave, the better it is to longboard. The best place to surf in Noosa is by Double Island Point. Here you can surf some of the most manageable waves but still get a decently high wave. Malibu, California The almost perfect longboard wave can be encountered at First Point in Malibu, California. The wave is formed perfectly, which offers a great ride. The right-point break has three various takeoff sectors that work with all tides. Surfing in polluted water may lead to skin rashes, ear and eye infections, and breathing problems, damaging the surfing reputation in Malibu: Malibu and many other islands off the southern coast of California. The culture of Malibu has always been based on longboards. In the 1940s, longboards were just called surfboards. In the 1950s, surfboards were easier to buy. Dale Velzy, Bob Simmons, and other surfers invented … Read more

Bells Beach Australia | Famous Surf Spots

June 8, 2023June 8, 2023 by Luke

checking out the line up at bells becach for the rip curl pro surf content

When you talk about surfing and Australia in the same sentence, Bells Beach will undoubtedly be at the top of any mention. It is praised as one of the world’s most famous surfing spots and is the pride of the Australian surfing community. Bells Beach in Australia is globally recognized as one of the most famous surfing spots. It was founded in 1840 and made famous in 1960 by Joe Sweeney. It is renowned for three major wave types: the Rincon, Winki, and the Bowl. The Bowl wave can reach as high as 10 feet. Although Bells Beach is open to any surfer, it is highly recommended that only experiences surfers tackle the monster waves. Let’s take a closer look at the history of Bells Beach and its infamous waves. Why Is Bells Beach Famous? Bells Beach is a famous beach located in Victoria, Australia. It has always been a top-rated surfing destination for surfers worldwide. Bells Beach is mainly known for two major waves: the Rincon wave and the Bowl wave. The Rincon wave breaks when it is at high tide and crumples to the shore, but the Bowl wave is the most infamous and famous on Bells shore. The wave has reached as high as ten feet. It will take a very experienced surfer to get on a high and mighty wave. Even the most experienced surfers will get a lot taken out of them with a big and strong wave. The Bowl The Bowl is one of the favorites when it comes to surfing in the winter. The wind gives rise to the big waves that go wonderfully with the reef break and give big waves. A lot of the time, surfers go after the Bowl’s clean wave since they offer enjoyable long waves. Rincon The Rincon is one of the most famous spots on the coast and has become renowned for surfing because there are always ways to get there. The Rincon Classic is a competition that is now world-famous and attracts people from all over the world to come and spectate or participate in the events. Winki Pop An additional Bells wave is the Winki Pop. This colossal wave breaks for 250 meters before it rises five to eight feet tall. The waves are split into two parts the Lowers and the Uppers. The trick is seamlessly transitioning from one to the other without falling. During the waveforms, surfers can paddle to the front of the break. It is best to avoid taking the wave head-on when it rises. Bells Beach has been introducing global surf competitions for years, the most admired of which is the Rip Curl Pro. Bells Beach is on almost every surfer’s and traveler’s bucket list. But why is this slight stretch of sand so famous in a country renowned for its jaw-dropping beaches? To answer simply, it is the surf capital of Australia. And the surfing history runs deep at Bells. Bells Beach History A while before surfing reached the now-popular destination, the land surrounding Bells Beach was the home to the Gukidjan Aboriginal people. In the 1840s, a family with the last name Bell moved into the area and claimed the spot. Only in 1957 a handful of Torquay Club Members followed the dirt road out of the town, went through the bush, and rode the waves at Bells Beach. In 1960, the surfing legend Joe Sweeney extended the old dirt road to Bells Beach. The first surfing competition, the Bells Beach Easter Rally, was held the following year and has become a yearly event. This competition was famously held over the long Easter weekend to admire tradition. When 1973 came around, this event was added to the World Competitive Tour. Bells Beach Trophy As iconic as the place is, so is the trophy. Joe Sweeney made the first Bells Beach trophy and every other trophy after that until he passed away in 2016. The trophies always had the brass bell hanging from its mount, and it is one of any competitive surfer’s dreams and honor to ring the Bell. There have only been 46 surfers in 1973 who had the privilege of ringing the Bell: 35% of the female winners are Australian 20 women and 26 men won the event 68% of the male winners are Australian Only two female and three male winners weren’t Australian, Hawaiian, or American In 1987 the youngest surfer to win at Bells Beach was a sixteen-year-old Aussie named Nick Wood Only three of the surfers have won the event three times in a row None of the surfers have won the event four times in a row to this day Bells Beach Wave Bells Beach is well-known because its ocean floor provides the perfect contour to bind the massive Southern Ocean turning into fun long rides with the wave. When conditions are right, the Bells wave can start at Rincon and break outside Bells into Bowl. Even though the waves look amazing from shore, it is a wave that requires skill, practice, and power to ensure your turns link up. The waves at Bells are walls that don’t barrel like others, meaning that surfers must show off their rail-surfing talent to have a good score. Point Break And The Bells Beach 50-Year Storm Point Break is a top-rated movie among surfers and one of the best surf action movies ever. This film had everything from surf gang-styled bank robbers hiding behind US president masks to FBI agents. The movie made $84 million at the box office, and when the late 1990s came around, it became an immediate classic film. Here are fun facts about the movie Point Break: The movie’s original script was supposed to be about skateboarding The co-producer Rick King came up with the movie idea after he took surfing lessons in Malibu. Keanu Reeves was not the first choice when looking for the cast for Johnny Utah. Actors such as Johnny Depp, Charlie Sheen, Val Kilmer, and Matthew … Read more

The Coldest Surf Spots In The World

December 9, 2023May 28, 2023 by Luke

For most people and even some surfers, surfing is done in warm sunny weather, but some of the best surfing spots are in places with fridged waters. Cold-water surfing is popular in many countries, and well-traveled surfers visit these spots to experience their thrilling and icy waves. Canada, Russia, Norway, and Scotland are known for their cold weather and surf spots that challenge surfers worldwide. Oceans in these countries have water temperatures that go as low as 28°F and waves that reach 18 feet, which provide a thrilling experience for many surfers. Surfing in icy water with high winds and enormous waves is something every surfer must consider doing at least once. Surfers all around the globe seek out challenging locations where they can ride massive waves and face harsh weather conditions to take their surfing skills to the next level. Discovering The Thrills Of Surfing In Unforgiving Environments Surfing in frigid waters may seem like a crazy idea and not something any surfer will attempt, but there are beautiful places where the rush and excitement make the cold water an afterthought. If you love surfing and are considering experiencing cold-water surfing, you will love some of these places and why it attracts surfers worldwide. Tofino, Canada Tofino is known for its surfers, who tackle the cold ocean daily. Temperatures in Tofino can drop to as low as 29°F, but typically the water temperature is around 40°F during winter and 50°F during summer. Winter Temperatures outside go from 38°F, and in the summer, as high as 67°F. Like most cold-water surf spots, the summers in Tofino are short, with clouds blocking most of the sun, and the winter is rainy and overcast, with high winds that last most of the year. If you love cold-water surfing, consider visiting Cox Bay and Chesterman Beach in Tofino. Both surfing spots are a favorite of locals and visiting surfers. Cox Bay Cox Bay is the number one surf spot to visit in Tofino and attracts beginners who tackle the waves closer to the shoreline and pro surfers who ride the long and large waves year-round. The swells draw longboard and shortboard surfers from everywhere, and it is the largest surf spot in Tofino. Chesterman Beach Chesterman has a north and south beach, although most surfers prefer North Chesterman Beach, which produces waves throughout the year. Both beaches are in the eyesight of one another, and surfers can easily spot which one has the best waves. Chesterman Beach attracts pros and beginners, although its calmer waters are best suited for those less experienced. Thurso, Scotland Thurso in Scotland is the northernmost town on the island of Great Britain, and the temperature requires wearing everything available to survive the cold waters. With the ocean reaching 43°F in the winter and 57°F in the summer, every surfer is tested by the cold waters and the waves. The big waves that break inside the bay are called “Coldwater Nias” by locals, and it is a big attraction for surfers visiting around the world. If the water temperature does not test your courage, it’s air temperature that goes as low as 35°F in the winter and a maximum of 61°F in the summer defiantly will. The summers in Thurso do not last long, and it is windy and cool. The long winter has high wind conditions, and it rains most of the time with cloudy skies year-round. If cold weather does not faze you, you must consider these local spots in Thurso on your next surf outing: Thurso East Thurso East is located on the coastline of Highland’s Caithness and faces the North Atlantic. Taking on these waters requires wearing a 4,5, or 6mm wetsuit and not forgetting boots, gloves, and a hood. The waves reach heights between ten and twenty feet, producing long walls and excellent tubes. Brimms Ness If you go west, you will find Brimms Ness, the surfing capital of Thurso. Brimms Ness is a Norse meaning “surf point,” the name says it all. Brimms Ness has three surf locations: The Bowl, The Cove, and The Point, providing the best waves from September through May. Lofoten Islands, Norway Lofoten Islands in Norway is more than 500 miles north of Oslo and home to one of the coldest surfing spots in the world. The Norwegian Sea produces large waves and cold temperatures that test the endurance of surfers year-round. In Lofoten Islands, summer temperatures reach between 53°F and 59°F in July and August. The winters, with February as the coldest month, sometimes go as low as 28°F and average a maximum of 34°F. Lofoten Islands waters are warmest in July and August and, at their highest, reach a maximum temperature of 53°F in July. Here are two spots in Lofoten that provide the best cold-water surfing conditions: Eggum Eggum produces great waves, especially when the northwest swells approach the beach and when there is a strong wind from the south. There are no high mountains that make for great scenery, but without protection from the wind, it creates mushy waves that are great fun to ride. Unstad Unstad’s increasable scenery has surfers worldwide buzzing and pros flocking to enjoy the beautiful coastal mountains and shoreline covered with spots of snow. In mid-winter, surfers enjoy swells between five and eight feet, and onlookers visit to see famous surfers battling the icy waters. Kamchatka Peninsula, Russia The Kamchatka Peninsula, located in the far eastern part of Russia, is where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Okhotsk meet and is home to one of the best cold-water surfing spots in the world. Surfers can use thin wet suits with the ocean reaching 59°F in the summer. When water temperatures are between 32°F and 36°F in wintertime, having a thicker wetsuit, boots, and gloves is a good idea. The Kamchatka Peninsula has summer days that range between 59°F and 86°F during the day, which makes for good surfing. From November to March, with January, the coldest Kamchatka Peninsula … Read more

Pipeline Surfing Injuries | Dangerous Waves

May 3, 2023May 3, 2023 by Luke

Pipeline, a wave that needs no introduction. One of the most famous waves on the planet, it’s crowded, heavy, and a wave by which all others are measured. From the most incredible rides of all time to some of the most horrific wipeouts you’ve ever seen, resulting in a litany of Pipeline surfing injuries. Pipeline serves it all each and every winter. The wave is incredible, a beautiful, bright blue cavernous barrel, lefts and rights where you can score the wave of your life or cop the beating of your life in the same session. While it looks perfect in videos, you don’t see the reef, sitting only feet below the surface, the pack of angry, hard-charging locals jostling for position, and the unpredictable nature of the wave. So while Pipeline can be perfect, it’s also deadly. Pipe has claimed more lives than any other wave on earth, but why is it so dangerous? Why is Pipeline talked about so much? And why has it served up so many injuries? A lot makes Pipe dangerous, so let’s jump in. Understanding Pipeline: Why is it so Dangerous? You often hear how Pipeline is the most dangerous wave on earth, but why? What makes it so dangerous? There are a few different contributing factors going beyond how the wave breaks. The Reef Pipeline comprises three reefs—farthest out lies third reef, which only breaks when the swell is huge. So, if you hear it’s breaking third reef, you know it’s frickin massive! Second reef is the next reef that only breaks when the swell is solid. The second reef means the wave breaks as a rolling whitewater before doubling up and hitting first reef. First reef is where the action starts, and the wave stands up abruptly and barrels down the reef. This is Pipeline’s shallowest and deadliest section, where the best barrels and worst wipeouts go down. First reef is also incredibly shallow, sitting only feet under the breaking lips. The reef is hard as concrete and is made up of caves, which is not uncommon for surfers to be stuffed into after a bad wipeout. The Crowd Because of the potential of riding the wave of your life and the attention of the surfing world fixated on Pipeline all winter, the attraction of coverage and making a name for yourself on the North Shore as a professional surfer is why Pipe is so crowded. Throw in the cloaks that dominate and regulate the Pipe lineup, and you have a recipe for aggression, fear, and a hectic crowd. On any given day, there can be between 50 and 100, if not more, people making up the pack at Pipe. The Pipe line-up runs in a hierarchy, with top locals and surfing legends taking their pick of the waves first, the top pros get the next best, and everyone else feeds off the scraps. Swells Because Hawaii sits in the middle of the Pacific, swells march un-interpreted from the North Pacific and slam straight into the reef at Pipe. It is why Hawaii has such good big waves, as solid swells hit Pipe directly. Conditions also change rapidly at Pipe, meaning sand (that sits adjacent to the Pipe reef) shifts and impacts how makeable the wave is. This can make Pipe even more deadly than usual by rendering the wave a closeout. The shallow reef, aggressive line-up, and huge swells make Pipeline incredibly dangerous; combine that with fear and other factors such as wind, tide, swell direction, backwash, and sand. You have a recipe for danger—a recipe for Pipeline. Pipeline Surf Injuries Pipeline has served up more injuries and deaths than any other wave. Taking many lives over the years, most notably Tahitian charger Malik Joyeux in 2011, along with many other surfers, all well-versed in waves of consequence. Even the best Pipe surfers of all time have had their fair share of life-threatening injuries out there. Jamie Obrien – JOB needs no introduction at Piepiline, but even for him, the waves he gets out there now have come at a price. Whether it be battling locals for waves his entire life or taking more wipeouts in a season than most of us rack up in a lifetime, Jamie had also broken both of his legs at Pipepine, and this all by the time he was 15. JJF – John John, one of the best Pipe surfers ever, broke his back in 2012 at Pipeline with a fairly run-of-the-mill wave (by John John standards) but managed a full recovery and return to surfing Pipeline. Andre Botha – The South African bodyboard legend almost lost his life at Pipe after being knocked unconscious–hitting his head on the reef, and being rescued by Jamie Obrien and North Shore lifeguards. Owen Wright – Owen Wrights’ return to professional surfing was one of the best surfing comebacks ever. After sustaining a brain injury at Pipe, the Australian won his first CT event back at Snapper Rocks. Owen, a well-renowned charger and CT veteran, took off on a closeout double-up, didn’t make it, and suffered a severe brain injury. Kala Grace – In the 2023 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, Kala Grace, a North Shore legend and Pipe charger, sustained a horrific head injury after falling inside the barrel and taking a solid first reef closeout on his head during a heat. He was rescued and taken to hospital and is still recovering as I write this. Billy Kemper also injured himself within minutes of this incident. Pipeline Surf Safety Even for the most experienced and best Pipe surfers, there are several precautions surfers must take to be safe (or at least minimize the risk) at Pipeline. Many surfers now wear Gath helmets if they hit the reef with their heads. Even Pipe specialists will avoid Pipe days where it’s bigger than usual or the wind or swell isn’t right; it just makes things even more dangerous than they already are. Final Thoughts Undoubtedly, Pipeline is an … Read more

Best Beginner Surf Spots USA | Ultimate Guide

May 12, 2024April 7, 2023 by Luke

Surfing, often termed as the “sport of kings,” has gained immense popularity over the years. The rush of catching a wave and riding it with finesse is an experience like no other. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just dipping your toes into the world of surfing, choosing the right spot to catch your first wave is crucial. In this ultimate guide, we’ll explore some of the best beginner surf spots in the USA, Intro to Surf It’s tricky learning how to surf. It’s one of the most challenging sports to master, and if you’ve already begun your surfing journey, you’ll know this firsthand. But even the best surfers never truly master the ocean and always try to improve their surfing or challenge themselves in new waves. It’s a never-ending process. While that may sound intimidating if you’re just starting, don’t stress. You have to take it one step at a time. But rather than grabbing any old board and heading out to the next beach you see, there are some important factors you need to consider first. One of the most important things is the location, as learning to surf requires specific conditions. When those variables come together can create an awesome, safe, and enjoyable first surf experience. So no, your first surf session doesn’t have to involve tumbling around in the whitewater and dragging a huge foamy behind you by the leg rope. Your first surf should be safe and fun and make you want to come back for more; after all, you want to become addicted like me, right? Before we dive into the best beginner surf destinations in the USA, let’s discover why choosing the right spot is crucial and the most important factors you must consider when choosing a spot. We have a ton to get through, so let’s dive right in. Why is Choosing The Right Spot Important for Beginners? Learning & Progression Nothing puts a beginner off more than bad conditions. 99% of the time, it leads to a horrible first experience and can put some people off for life. Conditions make the difference between spending your first surf lesson mostly underwater and frustrated or having the time of your life! As you progress, the right conditions are crucial in allowing you to practice specific things, for example, going from riding the whitewater to surfing the unbroken wave. You’ll need the right waves to do this. Safe Environment Surfing can be dangerous. After all, you’re in the ocean, which is unpredictable and infinitely more powerful than even the best surfers. All of which are humbled by it at some stage. As a beginner, you want calm, clean waves breaking over sand–conditions that make surfing as easy as possible. Enjoyment The right spot/conditions are make or break for beginner surf enjoyment. If you’re surfing a powerful reef break with huge waves, you’ll probably hate it and want to quit surfing forever. Whereas if you head to a lovely beach break with small waves, you’ll have a great time. So what should you consider when choosing a spot? Key Factors to Consider When Choosing A Beginner Surf Spot Wave Type In Surfing, there are several types of waves, well actually, there are countless, but most of them fit into four categories: Beachbreak – Waves breaking over sand Reef break – Waves breaking over coral or rock reef Rivermouth – Waves breaking into or across the mouth of a river Pointbreak – Waves breaking down the edge of a headland or outcrop of land While some of the world’s best surf spots are reef and pointbreaks, due to the predictability of how they break, as a beginner, aim for a beach break as sand is much softer than the reef (duh), and the waves are generally more forgiving. Wave Height As a beginner, the smaller the waves, the better. You want waves with enough power to push you along in the whitewater but with minimal consequence if you fall. It also makes walking/paddling and handling your board significantly easier as less water moves around. Wave Consistency/Swell Exposure There are beginner and advanced surf spots in surfing, and one of the most notable factors that separate the two is the exposure to swell. The more exposed a break is to swell (meaning it faces directly toward the prominent swell direction), the less suitable it is for beginners, as the waves are bigger and more powerful more often. Instead, you want a sheltered break, less exposed to swell. Crowds At some spots, crowds play a major role in your surf experience. The more people in the lineup (the area where surfers position themselves to catch waves), the fewer waves there are for you. And, of course, you want to maximize your wave count and the time spent on your feet. Local Surf Culture Having a friendly vibe in and around the water is essential when learning to surf. Despite their laid-back reputation, surfers are far from it in some spots! Local surfers can be hostile and even aggressive toward novice riders at some locations. Thankfully, the best beginner surf spots in the USA don’t have this issue. Accessibility & Facilities You need great facilities around you to make surfing easy and enjoyable. Rocking up to an empty windswept beach on your lonesome to surf isn’t that appealing. Instead, you want to choose a beach with a car park, easy access, surf school, showers, changing rooms, and a cafe for a cuppa, never goes a miss. These small things combine to make that first surf experience all the better. Best Beginner Surf Spots in the USA While there are hundreds of places to learn surfing in the States, we’ve narrowed things down to only the best. Spots with infrastructure and combine conditions and accessibility to make your first surf experience as best as possible. From Florida to California and Hawaii, here are the best beginner surf spots in the USA. Best Beginner Spots in California Malibu A wave … Read more

11 Best Big Wave Spots in the World

July 20, 2023December 18, 2022 by Luke

Big Wave Spots in the World surfed by kai lenny

Big wave surfing is not for the faint of heart. With waves starting at 20 feet and limited only to the sky, adrenaline junkies and big wave enthusiasts pride themselves on finding and conquering some of the world’s best big waves. With breaks such as Mavericks, Pipeline, Puerto Escondido, and Nazare, the globe is not short of monstrous breaks. The following is a list of a few of the world’s best big wave surf spots, where to find them, and just how raw they can really be. 1. Mavericks Location: Half Moon Bay, California, USA. Type of break: A-frame. Ideal conditions: Incoming low to mid tide with W – NW winds and 16+ second swell period. Best time of the year: November – March. Wave size: 15 – 50 feet. Biggest wave ridden: Approximately 50-foot (Grant “Twiggy” Baker). When surfers think of shark-infested, ice-cold winter waters, with 30-foot waves breaking overhead, Mavericks are often the first break that pops to mind. Just 20 miles south of San Fransisco lies the world-famous, and undeniably dangerous “Mavs”. Working best on a winter swell, Mavericks has become one of the best known, and most dangerous breaks ever surfed. This wave closes out when it reaches approximately 30-foot, but provides more punch than a bus going full speed down a highway. 2. Banzai Pipeline Location: North Shore, O’ahu, Hawaii. Type of break: Reef break. Ideal conditions: Mid tide with a mid-to-long swell period and a WNW – NW swell direction. Best time of the year: October – March. Wave Size: 9 – 20 feet. Biggest wave ridden: N/A. Pipeline is possibly the most dangerous surf break on the planet. Claiming the lives of seven surfers (that are known of) since the 1980s, this raw, hollow wave will send you crashing into a sharp coral reef when you make the slightest error. Typically averaging 6 – 9 feet, this pipeline is not an easy wave to ride. Double the wave size when the correct conditions arrive and you have a beast that’s not easily tamed. Pipeline, although dangerous, is one of the most famous known surf breaks and is constantly overcrowded when it is working, except during competitions such as the Billabong Pipe Masters and the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout. 3. Waimea Bay Location: North Shore, O’ahu, Hawaii. Type of break: Reef break Ideal conditions: NW swells with an ESE wind direction. It’s best surfed on a medium tide. Best time of the year: November – April. Wave size: 30 – 85+ feet. Biggest wave ridden: 85-foot (Ken Bradshaw, 1998). A legendary surf spot located on the Northshore of O’ahu, Waimea Bay is considered by most as the birthplace of big wave surfing. Home to the big waves surf and lifeguard legend Eddie Aikau, Waimea Bay is a tranquil beach paradise with warm water and flat oceans until the winter swell begins to roll in and the conditions are flipped on their head. It is not uncommon to find 20-foot waves at Waimea during the winter months. This spot is incredibly popular and often overcrowded when waves are smaller. As the swell picks up, however, fewer and fewer surfers dare to make the paddle out. Each year the “Eddie” is held at Waimea to honor Eddie Aikau for all he did for the community by doing what Eddie did best, surf big waves. 4. Pe’ahi (Jaws) Location: Pe’ahi, Maui, Hawaii. Type of break: Reef. Ideal conditions: NNW swells with SSW wind direction. Tide does not play a major role. Best time of year: November – March. Wave size: 30 – 80 feet. Biggest wave ridden: Assumed to be approximately 100 feet (Makuakai Rothman, 2021). Possibly the largest, heaviest, and fastest wave in the Pacific Ocean, and without a doubt, the most famous, Jaws is a break that very few surfers have and ever will surf. Jaws is a finicky wave that can turn from a big wave surf paradise to a washing machine of death in a few moments with the smallest wind or swell direction change. Jaws was first surfed in the 1900s and is the birthplace of tow-in surfing, thanks to the legend Laird Hamilton and his crew. 5. Teahupo’o Location: Teahupo’o, Tahiti, French Polynesia. Type of break: Reef. Ideal conditions: SSW swells with a cam NE to ESE wind direction. Works on any tide. Best time of the year: May-August. Wave size: 10 – 30 feet. Biggest wave ridden: 25-foot (Matahi Drollet, 2021). Teahupo’o may not be the biggest big wave spot in the world, but it certainly may be the heaviest, and has, without a doubt the thickest lip around. Teahupo’o was first surfed in 1986 by bodyboarders Mike Stewart and Ben Severson and in 2000 became the location of the heaviest wave ever surfed when Laird Hamilton dropped into a wave now known as the Millennium Wave. Although there has only been a single recorded death at Teahupo’o, it is still listed in Transworld Surf’s list of “Top 10 Deadliest Waves” and pays true homage to its translated name “to sever the head” or “place of skulls.” 6. Nazare Location: Praia do Norte, Nazaré, Portugal. Type of break: Wedge. Ideal conditions: WNW – NW swell with a long swell period. Gentle E – SE winds with a medium incoming tide. Best time of the year: December – February. Wave size: 40 – 100 feet. Biggest wave ridden: 101.4-foot (unofficially) by António Laureano,2020. If you are looking for the biggest surfable waves in the world, then there is nowhere else to look but Nazare, Portugal, specifically Praia do Norte. Breaking over a deep undersea canyon, Nazare is home to the biggest waves to ever be surfed. The current official world record for the biggest ever surfed wave is 80 feet and was conquered by Brazilian big wave surfer, Rodrigo Koxa, although António Laureano claims to have surfed bigger. Strange as it may seem, there have been no surfing-related deaths at Nazare, but this could be because of the incredibly small … Read more

Teahupo’s History and Surf Break | Behind the Wave

April 4, 2023December 28, 2021 by Luke

Teahupo (spelled as Teahupo’o and pronounced Chop-pu) is one of the world’s mightiest waves. Teahupo, a small and tranquil community, nestled on the southwest corner of Tahiti’s smaller dormant volcano, Tahiti Iti, has kept much of its traditional culture. The waves of Teahupo have a unique combination of size, force, and speed, which is made even more deadly because they break over a steep coral reef only meters beneath the surface. We can add sharks, capsizing boats, and the ability to pull your pants down to those scary possibilities. Still, year by year, the world’s best surfers head to this surfing destination for pro competitions. Let’s take a look at Teahupo’s History and Surf Break and find out why it’s terrifying and exciting at the same time. Teahupo’s History Freshwater ruined the reef hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago when it flowed down from the mountains behind Teahupo’o, producing what is today known as Passe Havea, the point where the paved road stops in town and dirt roads begin. Teahupo’o is now known as “The End of the Road” because of this. As the ocean swell bends and races along the reef, the monstrous wave takes on its dramatic shape and pitch as it leaves a gently sloping bottom and is hurled towards a dry reef. To avoid being launched, a surfer must take off under the lip to successfully surf a wave at Teahupo’o. That’s how close it comes to colliding with the live coral below. The Late 1900s When the surge of waves rolled in each year, Teahupo’o residents witnessed this monster build outside their homes – but no one thought of trying to surf it until the late 1900s. Then, in 1985, Thierry Vernaudon, a Tahitian, and a few other locals embarked on a 15-minute paddle out and surfed Teahupo’o’s Surf Break for the first time. The waves they surfed were nothing like what we now call Teahupo’o – the thick, heaving wave that terrifies everyone. Teahupo’o was still a closely guarded secret. Then, barely a year later, bodyboarders Mike Stewart and Ben Severson found themselves crossing the bridge at the End of the Road – and they were the first to show off Teahupo’o’s potential, if only to their friends. Teahupo’s Surf Break became a gathering site for the subterranean hellmen of the bodyboard scene, thanks to whispers and tall tales. The Emergence of Professional Surfing The rest of the world did not widely recognize Teahupoo until 1997. There had been some film up to that time, but not much, and what was accessible didn’t even scratch the surface of what was possible. The ASP World Tour then traveled to Tahiti to compete on this legendary slab. They were unable to locate what they were looking for. And the Teahupo contest was practically never held. “We came here in 1997 to run the first event,” recalls Steve Robertson, then-ASP Australasian Manager. Steve was given the task of organizing the event. “And it was a disaster.” “The surf was terrible. The weather was terrible. We were using a big ferry boat for the Beach Marshall, and when there was a drastic wind change in the middle of the day, the ferry was blown up onto the reef causing thousands of dollars in damage. Then mid-event, the organizers up and left us because they ran out of money.” This left Steve and the rest of the ASP team to foot the bill for the award money, nearly going bankrupt in the process. Steve remarked, “It was a terrible experience. And we decided that we weren’t going to come back.” Teahupo’s Second Chance The Tahitian government contacts Steve out of the blue and offers to pay everything back if the ASP can show them the invoices incurred during the accident. That is exactly what they did. “Then they plead for us to return and run the event in 1998,” Steve continues. So the ASP returned to Teahupo the following year, preparing to run the Gotcha Pro at Teahupoo — only to be met with calamity once more. “It was the same old story – terrible weather, terrible surf – and the government was doing everything they could to welcome us, but at the end of the day, the ocean was still flat.” “Halfway into the competition, almost everyone was frightened, fearful that they wouldn’t be able to finish. Almost everyone that is – with the exception of Teahupoo legends Raimana Van Bastolaer and Vetea Poto David. The waves will come shortly, do not worry,” Raimana stated over and over. They did, as it turned out. The Teahupo Wave that Changed Surfing Forever “We got up the next morning, and it was like nothing I’d ever seen in my life,” Steve adds. “Richie Porta, the Head Judge at the time, was with me when we first saw it at daybreak. We couldn’t believe what we saw. It was one of the most surreal experiences I’ve ever felt.” “It was easily 12-foot, but it wasn’t the size that worried us. The sheer power was unbelievable and completely uncharted territory for an event. We thought, ‘Can we really run and make these guys go out in this surf?’ We had a really good field of surfers (it was a WQS 6-Star at the time), and it was just too perfect to call it off. We knew we could do it. So we did.” The Gotcha Pro lasted three days, and each day was spectacular. The imagery spread like wildfire, and the event became an overnight sensation. Had there been no persistence from the Tahitian government, particularly Pascall Luciani and the Tahitian Water Patrol, the team wouldn’t have returned. Teahupoo would have never made it to the history of surfing. Teahupo’s Surf Break Teahupo is one of the world’s most dangerous waves. It has the potential to give you a once-in-a-lifetime ride or to kill you. The liquid gem of Tahiti is often referred to as a mutant species that courageous, … Read more

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