Big Wave Surfing Tips for Thrill Seekers

Surfing in Portugal: A Guide to Riding the Best Waves

December 26, 2024February 16, 2024 by Luke

Introduction Welcome to the ultimate guide for surfing in Portugal – a journey through the sun-kissed shores, where the waves beckon and the surf culture thrives. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll navigate through the best waves and surf spots that Portugal has to offer, catering to surfers of all levels. From the rugged coastline of the Algarve to the pristine beaches of Peniche, Portugal’s diverse landscapes provide a playground for wave riders from around the globe. Exploring the Algarve Coastline Nestled in the southern region of Portugal, the Algarve coastline boasts some of the most picturesque surf spots in the country. With its rugged cliffs, golden beaches, and consistent swells, this region offers an unparalleled surfing experience. From the renowned breaks of Sagres to the hidden gems of Lagos, the Algarve has something for every surfer. Beginners can enjoy the gentle waves of Praia da Rocha, while more experienced riders can challenge themselves at spots like Arrifana and Amado. Things to do in Sagres Sagres Natural Park – Sunset Tour by Jeep – Located in the stunning Algarve region of Portugal, Sagres Natural Park is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, rugged cliffs, and pristine beaches. Joining a Sunset Tour by Jeep offers a unique opportunity to explore this enchanting area while witnessing the magical beauty of the sunset. Sagres: Wildlife Tour Dolphins and Caves – Sagres is renowned for its diverse marine life, dramatic coastline, and pristine waters. Joining this tour offers a unique opportunity to witness dolphins in their natural habitat and explore the mesmerizing sea caves that dot the coastline. Visit Sagres Fortress: Explore the historic Sagres Fortress, perched on the edge of towering cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Built in the 15th century, this fortress offers panoramic views of the coastline and is steeped in maritime history. Discover Cape St. Vincent: Known as the southwesternmost point of Europe, Cape St. Vincent is a must-visit destination in Sagres. Marvel at the dramatic cliffs and lighthouse, and witness breathtaking sunsets over the Atlantic Ocean. Sample Local Cuisine: Indulge in delicious Portuguese cuisine at one of Sagres’ charming restaurants. From fresh seafood dishes to traditional favorites like cataplana and pastéis de nata, there’s no shortage of culinary delights to savor. Exploring Lagos From Lagos: Kayaking and Boat Cave Explorer Tour — Explore the fascinating sea caves and grottoes that dot the coastline of Lagos. Glide through narrow passages, beneath towering arches, and into hidden chambers, discovering the secrets of these ancient geological formations. Visit Ponta da Piedade: Take a boat tour or hike along the cliffs to Ponta da Piedade, a stunning natural landmark renowned for its towering rock formations, hidden grottoes, and crystal-clear waters. Don’t forget your camera – the views here are truly spectacular. Relax at Praia Dona Ana: Spend a day unwinding at Praia Dona Ana, one of the most picturesque beaches in the Algarve. With its golden sands, turquoise waters, and dramatic rock formations, Dona Ana is the perfect spot for sunbathing, swimming, and snorkeling. Explore the Old Town: Wander through the charming streets of Lagos’ historic Old Town, where whitewashed buildings, cobbled streets, and vibrant squares await. Discover quaint shops, lively cafes, and hidden gems around every corner. Kayak or SUP: Explore Lagos’ stunning coastline from a different perspective by kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). Paddle through sea caves, along rocky cliffs, and past secluded beaches for an unforgettable adventure on the water. Enjoy Nightlife: Experience Lagos’ vibrant nightlife scene, with its eclectic mix of bars, clubs, and live music venues. Whether you’re sipping cocktails by the beach or dancing the night away in the town center, Lagos offers something for every nocturnal adventurer. Things to do in Ericeira Surfing: Embrace Ericeira’s reputation as a surfing mecca by hitting the waves at one of its world-class surf spots. From the renowned breaks of Ribeira d’Ilhas to the challenging barrels of Coxos, Ericeira offers something for surfers of all skill levels. Beach Hopping: Discover Ericeira’s stunning coastline by hopping from one pristine beach to another. Whether you prefer the golden sands of Praia do Sul, the dramatic cliffs of Praia dos Pescadores, or the family-friendly atmosphere of Praia do Norte, you’ll find a beach to suit your preferences. Explore the Town Center: Wander through the charming streets of Ericeira’s historic town center, where whitewashed buildings, cobblestone streets, and colorful azulejos create a picturesque backdrop. Browse local shops, dine at quaint cafes, and soak up the laid-back atmosphere of this coastal gem. Visit the Surfing Reserve: Explore the world’s first and only World Surfing Reserve, which encompasses over 4 kilometers of coastline and numerous surf breaks. Learn about the region’s rich surfing heritage and environmental conservation efforts at the Surfing Reserve Interpretation Center. Sunset Watching: Experience the magic of a Ericeira sunset by heading to one of the town’s scenic viewpoints or beachfront cafes. Watch as the sun dips below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the ocean and painting the sky in vibrant hues of orange and pink. Hidden gastronomic gems tour: Indulge in a mouthwatering seafood feast at one of Ericeira’s many restaurants, where you can savor fresh-caught fish, shellfish, and traditional Portuguese dishes. Don’t miss the opportunity to try Ericeira’s famous seafood rice, a flavorful and hearty dish that’s a local favorite. Cultural Excursions: Immerse yourself in Ericeira’s rich maritime heritage with a visit to the town’s museums and cultural attractions. Explore the Museum of the Sea, which showcases the history of fishing and seafaring in the region, or visit the São Pedro de Alcântara Chapel, a historic landmark overlooking the ocean. Nature Walks: Take a leisurely stroll along Ericeira’s scenic coastal paths, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and surrounding countryside. Keep an eye out for native flora and fauna, including seabirds, wildflowers, and marine life. Chasing Surfing in Central Portugal Discovering the Gems of Peniche and Ericeira Heading north along the coast, we arrive at the surf meccas of Peniche and Ericeira. Known for their world-class waves … Read more

7 Best Surf Spots in Tasmania; Shipstern Bluff

December 11, 2023July 20, 2023 by Luke

best surf spots east coast tasmania, australia

The often-forgotten island of Tasmania is located to the south of Australia’s mainland. Depending on which borders of this small island are considered, the island can be said to be either surrounded by the Southern Ocean, or to have the Pacific on its east and the Indian to its west. Home to some of the most remote surf spots in the world, and the notoriously ferocious wave at Shipstern Bluff (location of Red Bull Cape Fear 2021) Tasmania’s East Coast has become a sought-after destination for surfers from Australia, and across the world. Its pristine beaches, breathtaking coastal landscapes, and consistent swells create a paradise for both novice and experienced wave enthusiasts. The East Coast of Tasmania has long been renowned for its natural splendor. It is also gaining global recognition as an exceptional haven for surfers. With its uncrowded breaks, consistent waves, and awe-inspiring scenery, this region attracts both seasoned professionals and enthusiastic beginners alike. Whether you are seeking to conquer the waves or catch your first ride, the East Coast of Tasmania promises an experience tailored to your skills and preferences. From the picturesque town of Bicheno to the untouched beauty of Friendly Beaches, each location possesses a unique charm accompanied by suitable surfing conditions. In this article, we will showcase the top seven surfing spots on Tasmania’s East Coast, a comprehensive guide to help surfers explore this stunning region while catching remarkable waves. So, prepare your surf trip and embark on an unforgettable surfing adventure! Bicheno Bicheno, situated on Tasmania’s East Coast, boasts a breathtaking coastal setting and a relaxed atmosphere that enthralls surfers. Whether you’re new to the sport or an experienced wave rider, Bicheno offers waves suitable for all skill levels, making it an exceptional destination. Surfers worldwide are drawn to renowned surf breaks like Redbill Beach and Shipstern Bluff in this area. Shipstern Bluff, in particular, is revered for its colossal and challenging waves, providing an exhilarating experience for seasoned big wave surfers. For those seeking adventure, Bicheno guarantees an unforgettable surfing escapade with its picturesque beauty and diverse wave options. It truly is a must visit gem along Tasmania’s captivating East Coast. Scamander Scamander remains a hidden gem cherished among surfers of all levels. It’s well-kept secret status ensures consistent swells and unspoiled, expansive beaches that enthrall those seeking tranquility in their surf experience. Nestled amidst untouched natural beauty, Scamander offers an array of breaks suitable for both beginners and advanced riders, catering to diverse skill levels. From those aiming to refine their abilities to seekers of carefree aquatic enjoyment, Scamander’s unwavering waves create an idyllic setting. The laid-back ambiance and pristine surroundings complete the package, providing an unparalleled escape for those yearning for a one-of-a-kind rejuvenating surf adventure. Immerse yourself in the untouched beauty of Scamander and discover why it’s a coveted destination for surfers looking to connect with nature and catch some memorable waves. Four Mile Creek Four Mile Creek stands as a distinctive surfing destination along the East Coast of Tasmania. This secluded spot entices experienced surfers, lured by its powerful waves and challenging conditions that promise an adrenaline rush. Surrounded by exquisite natural beauty, Four Mile Creek offers a haven of solitude and tranquility that heightens its irresistible charm. As the waves here possess intensity, it is imperative to possess adequate skills and experience to navigate them safely. However, for those willing to embrace the challenge, the rewards are vast and unforgettable rides amidst raw nature found in only a few places. St Helens Point Surfers seeking awe inspiring coastal vistas and consistent waves should not overlook the wonders of St Helens Point. This renowned destination is celebrated for its exceptional surf breaks, encompassing both reef breaks and point breaks that promise exhilarating rides. Combining heart-pounding wave action with breathtaking scenery, St Helens Point ensures an unforgettable surfing experience. Surrounded by unspoiled beaches and pristine azure waters, this location serves as a sanctuary for surfers and nature enthusiasts. Whether in pursuit of thrilling surf sessions or simply desiring to immerse oneself in the splendor of the surroundings, St Helens Point surpasses expectations on all counts. Friendly Beaches For surfers in search of a remote and untouched surf spot, Friendly Beaches is a true hidden gem. Located within the captivating Freycinet National Park, this pristine coastal stretch offers an unparalleled surfing experience. Its consistent surf conditions and world class waves attract enthusiasts from near and far. However, it’s essential to note that tackling these waves requires advanced skills due to their challenging nature. The combination of powerful waves and untouched natural beauty provides a truly exceptional surfing adventure. If you’re seeking an unforgettable challenge, Friendly Beaches is your destination. Immerse yourself in the raw beauty of this secluded paradise and let the waves transport you into a world of pure surfing bliss. Swanwick Beach Situated amidst breathtaking coastal landscapes, Swanwick Beach emerges as a haven for surfers that seamlessly blends convenience with a welcoming atmosphere suitable for families. This exceptional locale caters to surf enthusiasts of all ages and proficiency levels, enabling them to revel in the exhilarating waves. Beginners are afforded ample space along the extended stretch of sandy shoreline to refine their skills while seasoned surfers can explore breaks tailored to their preferences. The idyllic setting of Swanwick Beach ensures a tranquility filled surfing experience, making it an ideal choice for both families and those yearning for a leisurely day immersed in aquatic bliss. Whether one seeks the thrill of riding their inaugural wave or simply desires to bask in the allure of sun kissed shores, Swanwick Beach offers an inviting sanctuary where everyone can relish the joyous pursuit of surfing. Marion Bay Marion Bay, situated on Tasmania’s East Coast, is a thriving surfing destination that boasts pristine beach breaks and consistently favorable swells. It attracts not only local wave enthusiasts but also visitors in search of exceptional surf conditions combined with breathtaking natural beauty. Surrounded by dazzling coastal landscapes, surfers are treated to challenging waves and exhilarating … Read more

Can Longboards Surf Big Waves?

December 11, 2023June 1, 2023 by Luke

The global prevalence of longboards has exploded over the previous decade, mainly due to their practicality, functionality, and ease of use when surfing over slower and smaller waves. Modern longboards are typically wider, longer, heavier, and more cumbersome than traditional shortboards. Longboards can technically be used to surf big waves, but it is not recommended. While longboards can be used for surfing big waves, their lengthy, functional, and passive design makes them difficult to maneuver, increasing the chance of severe injury. Longboards are intended to function optimally when traversing smaller, slower waves found in calmer waters. are an inexperienced surfer or longboarder, experts recommend using one of the traditional shorter surfboards when surfing big, fast, and powerful waves. However, you can safely use your longboard to surf bigger waves in an unexpected emergency. To guarantee your safety and enjoyment, it is vital to use the correct equipment when surfing, as this article will detail. Are Longboards Practical For Surfing Big Waves? Longboards are not practical for surfing bigger, faster, and more powerful waves as they were originally designed to operate effortlessly in slower, smaller, and less forceful waves. While longboards can occasionally handle bigger waves, modern iterations were not intended to continuously traverse the power, speed, or gradient associated with larger waves. However, longboards measuring between nine and ten feet in length can be utilized by experienced surfers to surf in big wave conditions, although this is not recommended for their inexperienced counterparts. It is said that with the correct equipment and technique, longboards can be an optimal tool to handle some of the largest and most powerful waves imaginable. At the same time, before you attempt to surf big, fast, and powerful waves with a longboard, there are several important considerations to initially account for. It is incredibly challenging to duck under waves, paddle out, and glide down steep inclines using a traditional longboard. In addition, you must master the fundamentals of big wave and nose-ride surfing before attempting to take your longboard out into larger, more powerful waters. It is worthwhile noting that modern longboards function optimally in waves of between one and four feet. Most operational longboards can be found in locations such as Hawaii and California, with their notable lull between more forceful swells being ideal. Since longboards have more volume, are longer, and are significantly heavier compared to shorter surfboards, they offer users unparalleled stability and forgiveness in calmer waters. Moreover, longboards are usually easier to operate and become accustomed to, making it perfect for inexperienced people to learn how to surf. Are Longboards Or Shortboards Better For Big Wave Surfing? Short surfboards are the better option for most people concerning big-wave surfing as they offer significantly enhanced control, maneuverability, and agility compared to modern longboards. Traditionally, shorter surfboards are manufactured in a narrower, more streamlined, and shorter shape. The designs typically associated with shortboards enable them to maneuver instantly in any direction, ideal for having as much control as possible during critical moments while surfing big, steep, and powerful waves. At the same time, big-wave surfers prefer highly specialized surfboards known as tow boards or gun boards. Generally, these surfboards are considered shortboards as their unique shaping allows them to handle the unmatched intense forces associated with rapidly moving big waves. It should be noted that while shortboards are usually preferred when surfing bigger, faster waves, longboards can be utilized if necessary. Despite being impractical for high-velocity big-wave surfing, longboards can technically handle big waves if utilized correctly by an experienced surfer. Additionally, the likelihood of experiencing severe injury while big wave surfing is significantly increased when using longboards. Longboards are not considered unsafe; however, they are substantially more difficult to maneuver quickly, which makes control at crucial moments during the big wave surfing near impossible for most surfers. While shortboards are accepted as being more practical regarding big-wave surfing, the ultimate decision should be taken per your current surfing skill level, confidence, and state of mind. Taking risks during big-wave surfing can quickly lead to unnecessary disasters, severe injury, and even death. Tips For Using A Longboard To Surf Big Waves Safety is the most important aspect of using a longboard to surf big waves. The sheer size, weight, and volume associated with modern longboards make them hazardous projectiles for inexperienced surfers. There are numerous tips for using a longboard to surf big waves, depending on your skill and experience levels. However, there are five fundamental aspects every longboard surfer should remember while attempting to catch big, powerful, and fast waves: Remember to wear a certified, high-quality leash, which is commonly thought of as the most vital piece of safety equipment for kite surfers while on the waves. Always maintain an appropriate distance from any crowded peaks or fellow swimmers, as the volume, weight, and length associated with modern longboards render them a significant safety risk. Maintain perfect situational awareness while watching your back to ensure the safety of surrounding surfers. Give preference to shortboard surfers when big waves are hard to come by. You should never kick out in a flashy, stylish, or reckless manner, as the longboard’s weight could easily cause severe injury or even death. While catching and riding big waves using a longboard is more challenging, it is possible with relatively little practice. When using a longboard to ride big and powerful waves, it is vital to catch the wave as early as possible before it breaks. If the wave breaks while attempting to catch it, you will be thrown over the front, as longboards cannot safely surf down steep wave faces. Catching big waves early, maintaining a knee-bent position, and staying relaxed is the best approach when using longboards, as they will allow you to pinpoint the optimal portion of the board for your feet to be placed for enhanced maneuverability. Once you are comfortable catching larger, steeper, and more powerful waves, you can implement the drop knee technique, cross-stepping, and riding the nose to make … Read more

Frosty Hesson: The Real-Life Hero Of Mavericks

July 19, 2023May 29, 2023 by Luke

frosty hesson the real hero of mavericks

Legends are born when people accomplish extraordinary feats or perform remarkable acts of bravery, and surfing legends are no different. Frosty Hesson is one such legend whose name resonates with surfers around the globe. But who is Frosty Hesson, and what earned him the title “Hero of Mavericks?” Known as the real-life hero of Mavericks, Frosty Hesson’s life is an inspiring tale of triumph, mentorship, and overcoming personal tragedy. From his early days as a surfer to his remarkable influence on the surfing world, Hesson’s journey is one of resilience and unwavering dedication. To really do Frosty’s story justice, we must dive deep into his life and the things that made him who he is today. Who Is Frosty Hesson? Richard “Frosty” Hesson was born in San Francisco on September 6, 1949. He was (and still is) well-known in the surfing community and can still be found riding the waves at Pleasure Point, California, almost every day. However, his fame skyrocketed in late 2012 with the release of the movie “Chasing Mavericks,” in which the famous actor Gerard Butler portrays Hesson. Today, Hesson is a surfing coach and mentor to many. He published his memoir, “Making Mavericks,” to coincide with the movie’s release in 2012. Though the book is a tale of his life and experiences, Frosty wrote it mainly as a mentorship guide, sharing all the pearls of wisdom that he picked up along the way. Frosty Hesson’s Life and Career: Early Years to Mavericks Frosty Hesson had quite a turbulent childhood. His mother had chronic health problems that often saw her end up in hospital. His father coped with this stress by drinking and soon became an alcoholic. Despite these setbacks, Frosty has pleasant memories of his childhood in the 1950s and 60s. His parents frequently took him to the beaches at Santa Cruz, where he developed a tight connection with the ocean. That’s also where he saw surfers for the first time. Young Frosty immediately identified with them and realized that it was something that he wanted to do. His love for water drove him to join his school’s swimming team, which also awakened dreams of becoming a coach. However, tragedy struck when his father suffered a stroke. Suddenly, his family hit hard times. They had to sell their home and go live in an apartment. However, Frosty was offered a full college scholarship and enrolled in Chabot Community College, where he joined the water polo team. Unfortunately, the hard times got worse. His mom’s health deteriorated even more, and she eventually took her own life. Frosty’s father could not cope with life without her and died just six months later. This led to Frosty quitting school, marrying his first wife, and moving to Lake Tahoe. The couple had a son together, but the marriage did not last long, and Frosty returned to Santa Cruz, where he started working in construction. However, Frosty’s passion was still surfing, which he kept doing as often as possible in his spare time. This was also when he realized his lifelong dream of coaching. At one point, Frosty coached the Soquel High School’s surf team as well as the Santa Cruz Surf League, making a name for himself as a professional surfer, which was also how he discovered the thrill of surfing Mavericks. Mavericks is a surfing spot in northern California that’s known for its dangerous waters and massive waves (also called “Mavericks”). After storms, these waves can reach up to 60 feet, while some have even been recorded as up to 100 feet tall. When the waves break, the tremors are so severe that they can often be detected on seismometers. Frosty became enthralled with the Mavericks and joined a small group of elite surfers who routinely took on the Mavericks. This was a risky challenge since Mavericks isn’t a beautiful beach. It’s full of boulders and sharks and can also get very misty. It strikes fear into many surfers, but Frosty Hesson became one of the most frequent surfers to brave the massive waves there. This added to his reputation as a surfing master, causing even more young surfers to approach him for coaching and mentoring. Frosty Hesson’s Impact On The Surfing World Surfing the Mavericks showed something in Frosty that he would also grow to recognize, respect, and cultivate in others: resolve. Facing those massive waves in such harsh, life-threatening conditions would be enough to make anyone turn back. But Frosty rode the waves, then went back for more. This resolve and his dream of coaching drove him to coach and mentor hundreds of young people throughout his life. One of these students was a 12-year-old boy called Jay Moriarty. Jay had started off being coached by one of Frosty’s students but soon realized he wanted more and eventually approached Frosty directly. Hesson says he recognized the same seriousness and resolve in Jay that he saw in himself, so he agreed and started coaching him. However, when Jay saw Frosty Surfing the Mavericks, he asked the coach to teach him how to do the same. By this time, Frosty had been surfing the Mavericks for over seven years. Frosty is not the kind of person who just teaches. He’s a mentor, so he trained Jay for more than four years to become one of the most respected surfers ever. Jay even had to write 55 essays and discuss them with him at length before Frosty allowed him to surf the Mavericks. Jay is just one of the people who became championship surfers under the guidance of Frosty Hesson. Unfortunately, tragedy struck yet again when Jay drowned in 2001 while free diving in the Maldives. Jay Moriarty’s death sent shockwaves through the surfing community. People from all over the world mourned the tragic loss of such an incredible human being who found so much joy in life. Hundreds of surfers, including Hesson, held a memorial service for Jay in the water on June 26, 2001, to scatter his … Read more

Pipeline Surfing Injuries | Dangerous Waves

May 3, 2023May 3, 2023 by Luke

Pipeline, a wave that needs no introduction. One of the most famous waves on the planet, it’s crowded, heavy, and a wave by which all others are measured. From the most incredible rides of all time to some of the most horrific wipeouts you’ve ever seen, resulting in a litany of Pipeline surfing injuries. Pipeline serves it all each and every winter. The wave is incredible, a beautiful, bright blue cavernous barrel, lefts and rights where you can score the wave of your life or cop the beating of your life in the same session. While it looks perfect in videos, you don’t see the reef, sitting only feet below the surface, the pack of angry, hard-charging locals jostling for position, and the unpredictable nature of the wave. So while Pipeline can be perfect, it’s also deadly. Pipe has claimed more lives than any other wave on earth, but why is it so dangerous? Why is Pipeline talked about so much? And why has it served up so many injuries? A lot makes Pipe dangerous, so let’s jump in. Understanding Pipeline: Why is it so Dangerous? You often hear how Pipeline is the most dangerous wave on earth, but why? What makes it so dangerous? There are a few different contributing factors going beyond how the wave breaks. The Reef Pipeline comprises three reefs—farthest out lies third reef, which only breaks when the swell is huge. So, if you hear it’s breaking third reef, you know it’s frickin massive! Second reef is the next reef that only breaks when the swell is solid. The second reef means the wave breaks as a rolling whitewater before doubling up and hitting first reef. First reef is where the action starts, and the wave stands up abruptly and barrels down the reef. This is Pipeline’s shallowest and deadliest section, where the best barrels and worst wipeouts go down. First reef is also incredibly shallow, sitting only feet under the breaking lips. The reef is hard as concrete and is made up of caves, which is not uncommon for surfers to be stuffed into after a bad wipeout. The Crowd Because of the potential of riding the wave of your life and the attention of the surfing world fixated on Pipeline all winter, the attraction of coverage and making a name for yourself on the North Shore as a professional surfer is why Pipe is so crowded. Throw in the cloaks that dominate and regulate the Pipe lineup, and you have a recipe for aggression, fear, and a hectic crowd. On any given day, there can be between 50 and 100, if not more, people making up the pack at Pipe. The Pipe line-up runs in a hierarchy, with top locals and surfing legends taking their pick of the waves first, the top pros get the next best, and everyone else feeds off the scraps. Swells Because Hawaii sits in the middle of the Pacific, swells march un-interpreted from the North Pacific and slam straight into the reef at Pipe. It is why Hawaii has such good big waves, as solid swells hit Pipe directly. Conditions also change rapidly at Pipe, meaning sand (that sits adjacent to the Pipe reef) shifts and impacts how makeable the wave is. This can make Pipe even more deadly than usual by rendering the wave a closeout. The shallow reef, aggressive line-up, and huge swells make Pipeline incredibly dangerous; combine that with fear and other factors such as wind, tide, swell direction, backwash, and sand. You have a recipe for danger—a recipe for Pipeline. Pipeline Surf Injuries Pipeline has served up more injuries and deaths than any other wave. Taking many lives over the years, most notably Tahitian charger Malik Joyeux in 2011, along with many other surfers, all well-versed in waves of consequence. Even the best Pipe surfers of all time have had their fair share of life-threatening injuries out there. Jamie Obrien – JOB needs no introduction at Piepiline, but even for him, the waves he gets out there now have come at a price. Whether it be battling locals for waves his entire life or taking more wipeouts in a season than most of us rack up in a lifetime, Jamie had also broken both of his legs at Pipepine, and this all by the time he was 15. JJF – John John, one of the best Pipe surfers ever, broke his back in 2012 at Pipeline with a fairly run-of-the-mill wave (by John John standards) but managed a full recovery and return to surfing Pipeline. Andre Botha – The South African bodyboard legend almost lost his life at Pipe after being knocked unconscious–hitting his head on the reef, and being rescued by Jamie Obrien and North Shore lifeguards. Owen Wright – Owen Wrights’ return to professional surfing was one of the best surfing comebacks ever. After sustaining a brain injury at Pipe, the Australian won his first CT event back at Snapper Rocks. Owen, a well-renowned charger and CT veteran, took off on a closeout double-up, didn’t make it, and suffered a severe brain injury. Kala Grace – In the 2023 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, Kala Grace, a North Shore legend and Pipe charger, sustained a horrific head injury after falling inside the barrel and taking a solid first reef closeout on his head during a heat. He was rescued and taken to hospital and is still recovering as I write this. Billy Kemper also injured himself within minutes of this incident. Pipeline Surf Safety Even for the most experienced and best Pipe surfers, there are several precautions surfers must take to be safe (or at least minimize the risk) at Pipeline. Many surfers now wear Gath helmets if they hit the reef with their heads. Even Pipe specialists will avoid Pipe days where it’s bigger than usual or the wind or swell isn’t right; it just makes things even more dangerous than they already are. Final Thoughts Undoubtedly, Pipeline is an … Read more

Best Jet Skis for Tow-In Surfing and Rescue Sleds

March 18, 2024May 1, 2023 by Luke

Wherever there are surfers, especially highly skilled, competitive surfers, there are also jet skis being used for tow-in-surfing and jet ski rescues using rescue sleds. The two things go hand in hand, with jet skis serving as one of the most critical tools in big wave surfing and in everyday lifesaving situations. While jet skis are used on their own for recreation by thrill seekers who love spending time in the waves, they are also used by lifeguards and first responders all across the world who are tasked with keeping surfers and swimmers safe. In those critical moments when a lifesaving operation is underway, a reliable, high-performance jet ski is needed to ensure first responders can quickly reach a surfer in distress. Jet skis are also used for tow-in surfing, delivering surfers to the hardest-to-reach big waves in scenarios where paddling may not be practical. Read on to learn more about how jet skis became an integral part of competitive big wave surfing and a much-needed tool in lifesaving efforts on the water. We have rounded up the best jet ski for tow surfing, along with the best rescue sleds below. Jet Skis: A Brief History Today we use the name “Jet Ski” to describe almost any personal watercraft (PWC), but the first versions made in Europe were originally known as “water scooters.” These machines first appeared in the 1950s, but it was not until 1973 that Kawasaki manufactured the first “Jet Ski.” Kawasaki’s new design resulted from the initial efforts of Australian Clayton Jacobsen, who had made significant changes to the earliest European versions of personal watercraft. He altered the driver’s position from seated to standing, replaced the outboard motor with an internal pump jet, and eventually constructed a model of this personal watercraft from fiberglass. Kawasaki took an interest in his design and eventually brought it to the marketplace, paving the way for companies such as Yamaha and Bombardier to follow. The jet ski industry now has a market size of $1.1 billion in the United States alone. Why Do Surfers Use Jet Skis? While many surfers dream of always finding that next big wave, getting to it can prove impractical or simply impossible, or at least it was until the mid-1990s. Toward the end of the 20th century, some of surfing’s biggest names began to try what would become known as “tow-in surfing.” Elite competitors like Laird Hamilton and others realized they could reach a large breaking wave with the assistance of a PWC or even by dropping from a tow-in line attached to a helicopter. This truly changed the playing field in competitive surfing, allowing surfers to reach waves that were once out of their grasp with traditional paddling. In general, the maximum wave height most surfers reached before tow-in surfing came into play was 20 feet / 6 meters. Once jet skis and helicopters came into the picture, surfers could experience the thrill of waves ranging from 30 to 50 feet / 9 to 15 meters. From Northern California to Cape Town, South Africa, tow-in surfing has become a significant (albeit controversial) part of surf culture across the globe. Jet skis are also an important safety component in big wave surfing, especially when combined with rescue sleds, which we will explore further in this article. Important Features of Jet Skis for Tow-In Surfing When it comes to tow-in surfing, jet skis play a vital role in launching surfers into massive waves. Here are some key factors to consider when selecting the best jet ski for tow-in surfing: Power and Speed The ability of a jet ski to generate sufficient power and speed is essential for towing surfers into waves effectively. Look for jet skis with high-performance engines capable of propelling both the surfer and the watercraft swiftly. Stability Stability is another crucial factor, especially when navigating through turbulent waters and choppy waves. Opt for jet skis with a wide hull design and advanced stability features to ensure better balance and control. Maneuverability Maneuverability is vital for executing precise turns and maneuvers while towing surfers into position. Choose jet skis with responsive steering and agile handling to navigate through crowded lineups and challenging surf conditions with ease What Is the Best Jet Ski for Tow-In Surfing? If you are using a jet ski for cruising local waters and having fun with friends, you may not give much thought to its features, speed, or build in general, as long as you feel safe and comfortable on it. On the other hand, surfers relying on PWCs to reach monster waves want to know they are using the absolute best jet ski money can buy. They certainly would not attempt to surf a 30, 40, or 50-foot wave on a cheap surfboard, and they would not rely on anything less than the best jet ski to get to that big wave. While speed is certainly a critical factor in reaching waves, it is not the only thing to focus on when it comes to choosing the right jet ski. You also need to consider the model’s reputation for engine reliability, safety features, and overall stability. Here are three of the best jet skis on the market for use in tow-in surfing: 1. Yamaha FX Cruiser SVHO Curb weight: 875 pounds Seating Capacity: 1 to 3 Length: 140.9 inches Fuel Capacity: 18.5 gallons With premium features and the quality consumers expect from Yamaha, the FX Cruiser SVHO is a solid choice for tow-in surfing. This model accelerates from 0 to 30 miles per hour in under two seconds and can reach a max speed of 67 miles per hour. It enables drivers to rapidly decelerate when hitting tight corners and comes equipped with a supercharged marine engine with 260 horsepower. Yamaha’s LCD touchscreen includes GPS technology, and it comes with a waterproof integrated audio system and high-quality EcoXGear speakers; Yamaha covered all the bells and whistles with this model! The storage capacity is ample enough at 30.3 gallons, … Read more

The Best Female Big Wave Surfers in the World

May 14, 2023April 18, 2023 by Luke

keala kennelly one of the best female big wave surfers sponsored by the best surf brands

You only have to paddle out at your local to notice. Lineups are still majorly male-dominated, and while things are changing, surfing has always been this way. This is particularly true in waves of consequences, with only a handful of women tackling the biggest and scariest waves in the world. But things are on the up for women’s surfing and women’s big wave surfing! After the WSL’s equal prize money announcement in 2019 and an established women’s big wave world tour, the future is bright for females and big waves. That said, there will only ever be a select few surfers (both male and female) with the mindset and skill required to ride waves that can kill you. In this article, we look into the lives of the women at the forefront of big-wave surfing. These are the women pushing boundaries and breaking down the barriers of “possibility.” We’ll dive into the history of women’s big wave surfing, learning about the pioneers who paved the way for the up-and-coming crop of young female big wave chargers. We’ll also look at the challenges associated with women’s big-wave riding and what the future holds for the sport. We have a lot to get through, so let’s dive in! The History of Female Big Wave Surfing Surfing big waves has been at the core of our sport since its Hawaiian origins. When locals first tackled North Shore spots, previously deemed unrideable on old 9ft+ guns. The sport quickly grew in popularity worldwide as new big-wave spots were discovered, and small groups of dedicated big-wave chargers began popping up around the globe. This select group became known as big wave surfers, which has grown to include globally renowned professionals and “do it for” the love swell chasers, men, and women. Some of the first women in that group included Keala Kennelly, from Kauai, and Maya Gabeira, from Rio, two of the first women to tackle the scariest waves in the world. Mavericks, Teahupoo, Jaws, Nazare, Ghost Trees–big wave spots as dangerous and mystical as their names suggest! The Best Female Big Wave Surfers in the World An increasing number of female big-wave surfers chase swells, compete on the WSL women’s big-wave world tour, and ride stand-out waves during major swell events. This includes both younger and upcoming riders and pioneers. Here are some of the most notable figures in women’s big wave surfing. Keala Kennelly Hailing from Kauai, Hawaii, Keala Kennelly is synonymous with women’s big wave surfing. Keala was and still is at the forefront of female big wave surfing and among the first to surf death-defying spots such as Teahupoo, Pipeline, and Waimea. To this day, Keala is one of the best female big-wave surfers in the world. After spending ten years on the Women’s World Championship Tour (WCT), the Hawaiian celebrated wins at Teahupoo and Pipeline before quitting the tour to pursue careers in music and acting. Despite moving away from competitive surfing in everyday waves, Keala never stopped riding big waves and went on to compete in multiple big wave events. She took out the first-ever women’s big wave contest at Nelscott Reef, Oregon, in 2010 and is known for riding one of the biggest barrels ever ridden by a female at Puerto Escondido in Mexico. Kennelly is also famous for sustaining one of the most horrific wipeouts in surfing history, slicing her face open after face planting the reef on the “Code Red” swell at Teahupoo. Maya Gabeira Another huge name in women’s big wave surfing. Maya Gabeira has been pushing what’s possible for the past decade. Maya, originally from Rio, moved to Australia and Hawaii to surf bigger, more perfect waves. She holds the Guinness world record for the biggest wave ever surfed – a 73ft mountain at Nazare. The ride happened just a few years after she almost drowned at the same spot. Maya has won multiple Billabong XXL awards and was the first woman to tackle Ghost Trees, Teahupoo, and Nazare—a true icon of female big wave surfing. Paige Alms You only have to pull up some Jaws clips to see Paige Alms crop up. Paige is one of the best female big wave riders and has had some of the best waves of all time at Jaws. She lives only minutes from Jaws, which many consider the best big wave in the world. Originally from Canada, Alms moved to the wave-rich island paradise of Maui aged 9. She would take to surfing quickly and eventually progress onto bigger and bigger waves–going on to collect multiple big wave accolades. She has been nominated for the WSL Ride of the Year award and Performer of the Year and took out the Women’s Big Wave World Tour in 2016. In 2023, she became one of the first women ever to surf in the iconic Eddie Aikau event at Waimea Bay. It’s also worth noting Paige, despite a few small sponsors, is mostly self-funded in her pursuit of big waves surfer, working odd jobs to chase swells and follow her passion. Justine Dupont Justine Dupont is a professional big-wave surfer from South West France. She surfs well in anything from 2ft to 20ft and beyond and is a leading figure in female big wave surfing. She was the first woman ever to surf Belharra in the Basque Country and is a repeated stand-out in big wave sessions. With a 2021 Ride of the Year award, Nazare Tow Challenge Title, XXL Performer of the Year award, and Women’s Performer at Mavericks award to her name, the accolades speak for themselves. She also rode one of the biggest waves ever ridden by a female back in 2022, with a massive tow wave tube at Jaws. Seriously, the thing is crazy, and I’d highly suggest checking it out here. Sarah Gerhardt Sarah Gerhart is an interesting figure in women’s big wave surfing and one of the few on our list who isn’t a professional surfer. Gerdhart is a chemistry teacher who … Read more

Exploring the World of Kai Lenny: Surfer, Innovator & Icon

September 19, 2023April 7, 2023 by Luke

Kai Lenny big wave surfer on a SUP in Hawaii on a huge wave at Maui

Few figures in surfing are as versatile; even fewer have pushed the boundaries of what can be ridden, and fewer still have achieved the highest accolades across multiple watersports disciplines. There are some amazing watermen out there, from big wave chargers incredible to crazy fit paddle racers, skilled SUP riders, and incredible surf talent. However, no one has the prowess to match this now-legendary Hawaiin. The figure in question? Enter, Kai Lenny. This article dives into the life of the renowned big wave rider and waterman. We’ll dive into all aspects of Kai’s life, from where he grew up and his entry into surfing, how he learned so many different sports, his personal life, the many accolades he has collected, and how Kai’s life extends beyond surfing. The man has done a heck of a lot for someone only 30 years old, meaning we have a lot to get through, so let’s jump in! Who is Kai Lenny? Kai Lenny is a legendary Hawaiian surfer and waterman many call the best waterman to have ever walked the earth. Lenny competes at the top level and has won awards across multiple watersports disciplines, including surfing, big wave surfing, SUP’ing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, and paddle racing. Reaching the top level of just one of these sports is tough, and most dedicate their entire lives to do so. But competing at the highest level across multiple demanding watersports that’s unheard of. And winning in all of them? Well, that’s Kai Lenny. Kai Lenny was born to Californian parents on the island of Maui in October 1992. The sleepy Hawaiian island of Maui is incredibly wave-rich and has some of the world’s best surf and windsurf spots. His parents, originally from California, bought a property on the beach and were both avid windsurfers, so their move to the island was no coincidence. Young Kai was introduced to windsurfing at a ridiculously early age. It’s said he was introduced to windsurfing at the age of 4! He was also surfing at 6, supping at 7, and kite surfing at nine. Kai’s Impact on Big Wave Surfing When it comes to big waves, only a handful of riders have impacted and revolutionized how big waves are ridden. Kai has been at the forefront of pushing the limits in waves of consequence, and legendary figures such as Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama are among those who paved the way and inspired young Kai to do what he does. Today, Kai shares big wave line-ups around the world with a high-profile roster of big wave names. Guys like Koa Rothman, Nate Florence, Jamie Mitchell, and Grant Baker are some of Kai’s sparring partners in massive ways. But while all these guys constantly push the limits of how big waves are ridden, none have taken the same approach as Kai. When you watch Kai surf big waves, and if you haven’t, I’d highly recommend checking out his YouTube channel; you can see the different lines he draws on large waves, trying to ride 30ft monstrosities as if it were a three-footer at your local beachie. It’s a bold and exciting way of riding big waves and an approach that sets Kai apart. Even so, when the biggest swells happen around the world, whether it be Jaws, Puerto Escondido, Nazare, or Teahupoo, Kai is consistently among the few pushing the limits of what’s rideable – taking incredibly critical lines and knifing under waves that were for years considered unsurfable. Before we check out some of Kai’s extensive list of accolades and achievements, let’s take a closer look at his early life. Is Kai Lenny the Best Big Wave Surfer? Asking if Kai Lenny is the best big-wave surfer in the world is a tough question. While Kai’s skill in crazy waves is unquestioned, many variables are involved in big-wave surfing (and surfing in general, for that matter) that make it almost impossible to determine the “best” rider. There is a roster of around 10-20 expert big wave surfers that could rival Kai in big wave surfing and whom Kai competed with as part of the WSL’s Big Wave World Tour. While the tour aims to provide a fair competitive platform for big-wave surfers, the unpredictable nature of these swells and the fact that they only run if a swell gets big enough make it hard to determine a true winner. Swells of this magnitude are also susceptible to long lulls, and if you’ve ever watched a big wave contest online, you’ll understand. Big wave contests often fail to live up to expectations and don’t give enough of a window for finding the right waves. A better way to determine the best big wave surfer would be to watch videos and see who’s riding the best, biggest, heaviest (and scariest) waves on swells at multiple locations. But contest or no contest, Kai is undoubtedly up there with the best big wave surfers in the world and has an extensive list of achievements to back it. Kai’s Accolades & Achievements As you’d expect from such a high-profile and established waterman, Kai’s list of achievements is long–too many to name here. However, here are some of the most notable. 2022 2nd place big wave world tour 2020 1st place in Nazare tow challenge 2018 2nd big wave world tour 2016 1st SUP World Cup 2016 2nd ISA world surf championships 2015 2nd place Molokai to Oahu paddle race These are just a handful of Kai’s achievements, and the Hawaiian has won many more awards and accolades for his part in surfing and watersports. For a complete list of Kai’s accomplishments, check out his Red Bull athlete profile. Kai’s Personal Life Kai is currently married to Molly Payne, an interior designer from Maui who happens to be the sister of Dusty Payne, another high-profile surfer who has competed on the WSL Championship Tour and starred in cult surf films such as Lost Atlas. If you haven’t checked that out already, I’d suggest stopping what … Read more

‘100 Foot Wave’ Garrett McNamara Series

June 5, 2023March 14, 2023 by Luke

Garrett McNamara big wave surfer with surf board, as starring in his series 100 ft wave

Have you heard about the legendary big wave surfer Garrett McNamara? Garrett gained international recognition for surfing a 100-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, back in 2011. This surfer board in Pittsfield, Massachusetts, began surfing at a young age and soon became fascinated with the thrills of catching large waves. He soon started traveling around the world to catch the biggest waves. Known for pushing the limits of what is possible on a surfboard. And in no time, Garrett McNamara’s feat in Nazaré cemented his legacy as one of the greatest big wave surfers ever. Garrett has inspired a new generation of surfers to pursue the thrill of massive waves. What Is this ‘100 Foot Wave’ Netflix Documentary About Garrett McNamara? So, is there a documentary about riding the biggest wave? Well, yes, HBO has produced a documentary about McNamara titled “100 Foot Wave.” This HBO surfing documentary is a chronicle about Garrett’s journey to surf the world’s largest waves. It premiered on HBO on July 18, 2021, and soon enthusiast surfers can watch the 100 Foot Wave online on other networks like HBO Max, Netflix, Amazon Prime, and so on. Directed by Chris Smith, the 100 Foot Wave is a single-season series with six episodes focusing on Garrett’s time in Nazaré, where he hoped to find and conquer a 100-foot wave. The documentary captures the intensity and drama of that historical moment and the emotional and physical toll it took on Garrett. Overall, the series is an inspiring and thrilling documentary celebrating big-wave surfers‘ skill and bravery. Will there be a season 2, and if so, when is the 100 Foot Wave season 2 release date? In August 2021, HBO renewed the series for a second season. So, if you fascinate the culture and community of big surfers, stay tuned for the release date of the surfing documentary Netflix 100 Foot wave season 2 in 2023 by HBO. Synopsis of the Episodes of Garrett McNamara 100 Foot Wave Amazon Prime, HBO, Netflix The 100 Foot wave big wave documentary Netflix explores the mindset of big wave surfers. The series explores the sacrifices and dedication required of surfers to pursue such an intense passion. Garrett’s pursuit of surfing feat was broken down into six chapters in the series and are as follows. Chapter 1: Sea Monsters Aired on July 18, 2021, chapter 1 of the series begins with professional surfer Garrett retiring to pursue his lifelong dream of riding a 100-foot wave after winning at a competition at Maui’s world-famous Jaw surf break in 2003. In 2010, Garrett and his wife Nicole invited big wave surfers to Nazaré, Portugal. Chapter II: We’re Not Surfers Chapter II, aired on July 25, 2021, reviews Garrett and their team reconvening in Nazaré in 2011. In this reconvene, Garratt and his team kicked preparations into high gear to prepare for the upcoming attempt to make history as he catches a nearly 80-foot tall wave that captures him to international fame. And as expected, there were some unexpected hurdles with Garrett catching the epic wave that will forever change him, the small seaside town, and even the legacy of the sport. Chapter III: Mavericks Chapter III, titled Mavericks, aired on August 1, 2021. It remunerates Garrett’s challenges at Nazaré and his decision to return to competitive surfing at big wave sites in 2017. But before this, he visited his mother, whose presence promoted this exploration. Also in this chapter is the drama of a group of Brazilians who arrived at Nazaré in 2013 but failed to head to Garrett’s safety tips, which resulted in a near-fatal accident. Chapter IV: Dancing With God In 2017, several prominent surfers flocked to Nazaré for its largest swell. This episode aired on August 8, 2021, with Andrew Cotton suffering a devastating wipeout. n 2019, after rallying through a back-to-back concussion and a broken foot, Garrett sustained another injury that threatened to permanently remove him as a big wave surfer. Meanwhile, his friend catches an 80-foot wave at Nazaré when big wave surfing, taking the Guiness world record from McNamara. Chapter V: The Circus Aired on August 15, 2021, chapter V of the 100-foot wave follows after the World Surf League announced that Nazaré would host the upcoming big wave competition; prominent from around the globe flocks to Nazaré to participate in the tournament. But with the event getting closer, so did Garrett’s concerns over the proposed safety of protocols, and they tried to convince organizers to beef up their plans. On top of that, he struggles with his mental preparedness and physical injuries. Despite the fact he was not ready, seeing other world-class surfers made him consider competing anyways. Chapter VI: More Than Just a Wipeout The final episode of the 100 Foot Wave series aired on August 22, 2021, is set on the day of the Nazaré competition. Garrett decides not to compete but to support his long-time friend and teammate, Andrew Cotton. Sadly, the competition did not go smoothly, with a major accident that had a secondary effect on Cotty. But after the competition, Garratt tried to surf at Nazaré again and realized he could resume big-wave surfing. The episodes conclude with a retrospective of several surfers who appeared in various series episodes. Critiques and Controversy of Garrett McNamara 100 Foot Wave Surfing With big wave surfing becoming more popular, it became a subject of criticism and scrutiny. Some raised questions about the ethics and safety of pushing the limit of what is possible in the ocean. Some even raised criticism about the impact it can have on the environment. But the 100ft Wave Netflix does not shy away from these issues. Rather the series explores the risks involved in big wave surfing and encourages prospective surfers to take proper caution when big waves surge. It addresses the issue of the impact of the sport on the environment and the need for surfers to be responsible for the practices to ensure that the ocean remains a sustainable … Read more

Eddie Would Go: Surf Slang You Need to Know

June 6, 2023February 27, 2023 by Luke

“Eddie would go” is one of the most widely used phrases in surf culture, even four decades after the Eddie in question was last seen alive. What made this Eddie so special among the surfing community that his name would still be revered long after he was gone? Read on to learn why this phrase still resonates among surfers worldwide and how it began with one humble yet wildly talented surfer, Eddie Aikau. Eddie Aikau: Lifeguard, Surfer, Local Legend Born in 1946 in Kahului, Maui, a Hawaiian island, Eddie Aikau would later move to O’ahu with his family and, as a teenager, began working in the Dole Pineapple cannery in the early 1960s. This was when Hawaii was still one of the world’s largest exporters of pineapples, and Eddie used his earnings from the job to purchase his first surfboard, which would ultimately change the trajectory of his life. But it was not only Eddie’s life that would be changed by his love affair with the ocean—he saved hundreds of lives as Waimea Bay’s first lifeguard. Eddie would brave the waves to rescue surfers and swimmers in peril, no matter how high. His days as a lifeguard were unmarked by a single failure, having lost no lives during the time he watched over the seas. Just as he found unmatched success as a lifeguard, Eddie was quietly developing his talent as a big wave surfer. He would reach the finals in the Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship six times before winning the event in 1977. Eddie Aikau was a humble and modest man whose passion was chasing the biggest waves and doing it for the thrill of it, not for awards and accolades. Only after he was gone did the masses truly recognize Eddie’s skill, and his influence on other surfers began to grow. What Happened to Eddie Aikau? Sadly, Eddie Aikau’s life was cut short and ended in tragedy, though perhaps fittingly, he spent his final moments in the waters he loved. Eddie’s adventurous spirit was tested when he volunteered to go on a 30-day voyage with the Polynesian Voyaging Society, tracing a 2,500-mile route representing the ancient Polynesian migration journey. This route between the Hawaiian and Tahitian island chains was not for the faint of heart, and despite his incredible skills as a lifeguard and surfer, Eddie would not survive the journey. The canoe Eddie was traveling in capsized after a leak, and he attempted to paddle to land on his surfboard, but Eddie would never make it to safety. Did They Ever Find Eddie Aikau? The US Coast Guard Cutter Cape Corwin was able to rescue the other members of Eddie’s crew, but he was never found, and his body was not recovered, despite a massive air and sea search for him. His death is recorded as March 18, 1978, with remains never located at sea. Eddie left behind a wife, Linda Crosswhite, and a brother, Clyde, who would carry on Eddie’s legacy and love of North Shore surfing. Who Said ‘Eddie Would Go’? The popular surf culture phrase “Eddie Would Go” has been attributed to surfer Mark Foo, another legend in the surfing world. Foo chased big waves just as Eddie Aikau had before him and was once rescued by a helicopter after a 1986 North Shore excursion where onlookers noted the waves were over 6 feet. He later died in a tragic surfing accident in Half Moon Bay in California in 1994. Foo was present for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational in 1985, a big wave contest held to honor Eddie’s legacy. A stipulation of the event (which has been held 34 times and is lauded as the “Super Bowl of Surfing”) is that waves must be consistently 20 feet or higher, making it both a thrilling and dangerous surf competition. At the 1985 event, organizers had some concerns about the 25-foot waves and debated whether or not to proceed. As the story goes, Mark Foo pushed them forward with three simple yet powerful words: “Eddie would go.” What Does Eddie Would Go Mean? “Eddie would go” is now a phrase used by surfers all across the globe to represent courage in the face of the unknown. It is a motto for those who chase big waves or any thrill seeker propelled by a sense of daring and adventure. “Eddie would go” also represents the fighting spirit found in a man who braved the biggest waves to save others. It is an especially poignant saying for native Hawaiians, who remember the brave yet humble surfer and lifeguard and what he represents in their culture and heritage. That legacy lives on in Eddie’s brother Clyde, who ultimately won the first Eddie Aikau Invitational (after a tiebreaker with Mark Foo). Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman digs deeper into the legacy of both the man and the indelible mark the saying has made on surf culture. Eddie Sayings in Surf and Popular Culture The influence of Eddie Aikau lives on in a number of other phrases well-known among the best surfers who chase big waves. “Eddie Wouldn’t Crow” is used in the surfing and beach community as a reminder of this humble man who would not have bragged about his accomplishments. “Eddie Wouldn’t Tow” is used as a sort of purist statement against tow-in surfing, as Eddie was devoted to paddling into the surf. “Eddie Would Hoe” links this native Hawaiian’s determination and spirit to some of the state’s agricultural outreach programs. Even the Honolulu Rail Transit project jumped on board with “Eddie Would Ride.” Eddie Aikau’s spirit lives on in the surfing and beach community and among all Hawaiians who honor him as a man who saved lives, dared to chase the biggest waves, and did it all with great humility.LukeLuke is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy … Read more

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