Big Wave Surfing

The largest wave ever surfed (that has been recorded) was 78ft. That’s approximately the size of an 8-story building. When we speak of surfing as an extreme sport, big-wave surfers truly live up to the name by facing waves more than 20ft in size and traveling at speeds of 80 km/h and faster. Big wave surfers such as Jeff Clark, Eddie Aikau, and Shane Dorian are a breed of their own. Below is a list of some of the most iconic, influential, and experienced big-wave surfers that the surfing community has to offer. Best Big Wave Surfers Because what we all consider “the best” is subjective, it is impossible to decide who is or was the best big wave surfer of all time. That being said, here is a list of some of the most iconic big-wave surfers of all time. Eddie Aikau One of the most respected names in the world of surfing, Eddie Aikau, born in Kahului, Hawaii, in 1946 transformed from being the first official lifeguard hired by the City & County of Honolulu to becoming a legendary big wave surfer that every surfer has heard of. According to Eddie’s younger brother Clyde, he was “high risk at an early age” and although quiet, was always ready for a challenge or something risky. Summary Date: May 1946 – March 1978 Place of birth: Kahului, Hawaii Famous for surfing: Waimea Bay Interesting Facts:  Eddie saved over 500 people as a lifeguard. Eddie never refused to enter the ocean if someone was in trouble and never lost a single person. Eddie was lost at sea after embarking on a historic migration route between the Hawaiian and Tahitian islands. After the canoe developed a leak, Eddie attempted to swim to shore for help but was never seen again. Jeff Clark There is only a small handful of surfers that are willing to brave the gigantic waves of Maverick, let alone be the first. Jeff Clark, born in the USA was constantly seeking bigger and stronger waves as he grew up until he discovered Maverick. Being the only person brave (or crazy) enough to paddle out and surf these waves, Jeff surfed Maverick alone for 15 years before he could convince another surfer to join him. When you understand that Maverick can get up to 60 ft, and breaks half a mile for the shore, you will begin to see why Jeff is such a legend. Not only does the wave break far out, but it breaks around a point, which leaves the surfer with a 45-minute maze of rocks and well to get past before they even reach the backline. Summary Date of Birth: March 1957 Place of birth: Redwood City, California. Famous for surfing: Mavericks. Interesting Facts: First person to surf Maverick. Surfed Maverick alone for 15 years. Founder of the Mavericks surf contest. Stared in the films “Riding Giants, Step Into Liquid, Adventures in Wild California, and Discovering Mavericks”. Gregg Noll (Da Bull) Born in California, Gregg Noll was an accomplished lifeguard and one of surfing’s first big wave celebrities. Nicknamed “Da Bull” by Phil Edwards (the first surfer to ride pipeline) for his charging surf style and bull-like physic. Gregg was a pioneer in big wave surfing, particularly for dominating Waimea Bay, which was commonly known as his “gal”. Once called “the Babe Ruth of surfing” by Jim Kempton, the president of the California Surf Museum, Gregg was a fearless big wave surfer, film star, and longboard shaper, just to mention a few. Summary Date: February 1937 – June 2021 Place of birth: San Diego, California. Famous for surfing: Waimea Bay, and Makaha. Interesting Facts: In 1953 Greg moved to Hawaii to live off the land and surf the coastlines with several other surfers. Manufacturer of “Da Cat” surfboards. During a storm in 1969, Greg rode what was deemed to have surfed one of the biggest waves in history at Makaha. Shane Dorian After touring for 11 years as a professional surfer, Shane Dorian gave up his pro career to indulge in the world of big-wave surfing. Since leaving the pro surfing world in 2003, Shane has caught the biggest wave at Waimea, one of the best waves at Jaws of all time, and the biggest paddle-in wave at Nazare. Shane is a force to be reckoned with in the big wave world and remains one of the best big wave surfers of all time. Summary Date of Birth: July 1972. Place of birth: Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. Famous for surfing: Waimea, Jaws, Nazare, Mavericks, Teahupoo, and more. Interesting Facts: Founder of the Shane Dorian Keiki Classic. Billabong has been a long-time main sponsor of Shane. Awarded “Surfer of the Year” by WSL for his wave at Jaws. Laird Hamilton A pioneer of tow-in-surfing, and called the greatest wave rider of all time by many, Laird Hamilton seems to be completely fearless. Not only is Laird one of the inventors of tow-in surfing, but he is also at the core of stand-up paddleboarding, and hydrofoil boarding. This one model has become a legend in the surfing world and was once called “the sport’s most complete surfer” by Surf Magazine. Summary Date of Birth: March 1964. Place of birth: San Francisco, California. Famous for: Being a pioneer in tow-in surfing, Hydrofoil boarding, and stand-up paddleboarding. Interesting Facts: Laird was a model before his surfing career. Laird has been the star in multiple films, as well as taking part as a stuntman in surf scenes. The New York Times bestseller “Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, and, Of Course, Surfing” was released by Laird in 2008, which is now a go-to manual for those seeking inspiration on living a healthy lifestyle. What Is Big Wave Surfing? Big wave surfing is exactly what the name implies – surfing big waves. However, in order to call it big wave surfing the wave needs to be a minimum of 20ft (6m). Big wave surfers are either towed or paddled onto these giants and … Read more

“You just gotta appreciate everything. And that’s one of the most important things in life, is just really appreciating it, because, you know, we only get to do this once, and it’s not for a long time, so, enjoy it.” — Jay Moriarity Just when his career was at its peak, Jay Moriarity died in a freediving accident on June 15, 2001. This left a big gaping hole in the surfing world, as he was known as one of the most passionate and talented surfers during his time.  In this post, we’re going to celebrate the life of soul surfer, Jay Moriarity, as well as his notable achievements and the lasting impact he’s made even after his unfortunate demise.  Jay Moriarity: The Biography Jay Moriarity was born in Augusta, Georgia on June 16, 1978. Shortly after his birth, his family moved to Santa Cruz, California where he grew up learning how to surf.  At age 9, Moriarity already began his career when he surfed the waves of Sewer Peak. He was a versatile surfer who was able to surf using both longboards and shortboards.  Moriarity was someone who liked to explore the limits of his abilities. Unlike other riders who only focused on surfing, Moriarity didn’t confine himself to this sport. He was a world-class athlete and a thalassophile by heart. Aside from surfing, he also enjoyed other water sports such as swimming, paddling, fishing, and diving.  A lot of people who’s crossed paths with Moriarity described him as a genuine, kind-hearted person who has a positive outlook on life. He was a humble man who always kept a smile. Among his peers, he’s known as the happy-go-lucky guy who was a friendly face in the most aggressive lineups.  How His Surfing Career Started Moriarity already had a promising career as a grom. When he was only 12 years old, he won the NSSA (National Scholastic Surfing Association) shortboard competition held in Pleasure Point.  It was also during that time that Moriarity met his coach, Frosty Hesson, whom he approached and asked if he could teach him how to surf better. Overhearing Hesson talking with Terry Simms about Mavericks piqued Moriarity’s curiosity, and this ultimately started his career in big wave surfing. It took four years of intense physical and mental training before Hesson allowed Moriarity to surf big waves. At 15 years old, he was already a regular in the heavy lineups of the Mavericks in Half Moon Bay in California.  Throughout his career, Moriarity won multiple sportsmanship awards and sponsorship titles.  He also co-authored with Chris Gallagher in publishing ‘The Ultimate Guide to Surfing’, a book that lists professional tips and techniques about this sport.  The ‘Iron Cross’ of Surfer Magazine Jay Moriarity etched his mark in the surfing world when his legendary wipeout was captured on film by famous photographer, Bob Barbour.  On December 19, 1994, Moriarity rode a 50-foot massive wave, and just as he was starting to lose balance and control, the photographer took the shot wherein his arms are stretched out — dubbing the photo the ‘Iron Cross’. Moriarity’s fall was estimated to be 30 to 40 ft in height, leaving him with a surfboard that’s broken in half.  The photo was featured on the cover of the 1995 issue of Surfer Magazine. A write-up was also published about it in The New York Times magazine.  Jay Moriarity’s Untimely Death Because of his skills and friendly demeanor, Moriarity easily became a crowd favorite, with an impressive following that promised a bright future ahead of him. However, at the young age of 22, Jay Moriarity died alone, miles away from his home due to a free-diving accident. On June 15, 2001, a day before his 23rd birthday, Moriarity went off alone in the Indian Ocean, along the coasts of the Lohifushi Island in the Maldives, and didn’t come back. His friends became skeptical when he wasn’t able to show up for dinner later that night, so they called for a search and rescue team to find him.  The next day, Moriarity’s body was found near the diving spot where he went. Investigators say his death was caused by drowning.  According to his wife, Kim Moriarity, Jay Moriarity was keen on testing his breathing capabilities. He used to go deep into the ocean without oxygen tanks, which may have caused him to have a shallow water blackout (loss of consciousness due to low oxygen to the brain) during his last routine training. When the news broke out of Moriarity’s death, his friends and fans all over the globe were left grief-stricken. His memorial service was held at Pleasure Point where hundreds of people attended.  During the memorial, Moriarity’s peers bid him farewell with the surfer paddle-out tradition, while Kim scattered his ashes to the sea. You can watch the original footage of the memorial in the video below. Live Like Jay Despite the tragic loss, the legacy of Jay Moriarity lives on and still inspires a lot of people. In Santa Cruz, ‘Live Like Jay’ was a reminder to be true to yourself, do what makes you happy, and look for the good in everyone.  Even after his death, Moriarity’s impact on the surfing world continues to live on. A paddleboard race known as ‘The Jay Race’ is held every year in Monterey Bay to commemorate his passing. Kim also founded the non-profit organization ‘Jay Moriarity Foundation’ to honor her late husband’s love for the ocean and the community.  Conclusion Jay Moriarity is much more than his infectious smile and friendly attitude. He’s a waterman who’s passionate, kind, and an inspiration to many surfers. He’s well-loved by his community, and when he died, everyone came together — friends and even rivals — to honor his legacy.  We hope that this article has inspired you to live as how Jay Moriarity lived and to chase your dreams no matter how big or small they are. If you want to learn more about other surfing legends, you can … Read more

When the World Surf League announces the entries for the wipeout of the year awards each year, thousands of people exclaim, “How on earth didn’t they die?!?” While there have been a few high-profile surfer deaths in recent decades, surfing, especially in huge waves, is not nearly as dangerous as it appears. On Oahu’s North Shore, Pipeline is well-known as the world’s most deadly surf break, having claimed the lives of more than ten surfers since the 1960s and resulting in numerous significant injuries and near-misses. Thankfully, with all of the improved water safety, we are seeing a low body count, with inflatable life vests preventing surfers from being held underwater long enough to drown and on-land spotters working alongside jet-ski safety teams ensuring surfers are quickly whipped out of harm’s way after a wipeout. Surfers Who Died During Surfing We don’t intend this to be a memorial to their deaths but rather a celebration of their unwavering devotion. Every swell bears the imprint of their presence. All of our thoughts and prayers are with those who have been deeply affected by these surfers’ deaths. Mark Foo (February 5, 1958 – December 23, 1994) Mark Foo, a big wave surfer from California, on December 23, 1994 died while surfing at Mavericks. He was 36 years old at the time. Foo was born in Singapore to Chinese-American parents who worked for the US Information Agency as photojournalists. He didn’t learn to swim, let alone surf, until he was ten years old when his family relocated to Honolulu from Washington, DC. Foo’s larger-than-life personality was reflected in his surfing style — he was one of the first to slice up and down monster waves as though they were head-high — and it also made him a captivating photo subject. He relied on surf videos and periodicals to keep connected to the sport while living on the mainland, so he understands the reach and power of such material. He made friends with surf photographers and was featured on the covers of Surfer and Surfing, the two most popular publications in the expanding surf business, more than the world champions who beat him in competitions. Because of his widespread visibility, he secured commercial contracts that paid him to be a billboard surfer. Though he never made a lot of money surfing, he was practically paid to surf for free, a dream come true for any wave surfer. Foo paddled out into the Maverick’s lineup in 1994 with big wave surfers Ken Bradshaw and Brock Little. Photographers packed the beach, and the presence of North Shore icons bolstered Mavericks’ credibility. Foo has never been to this break before. Bradshaw and Foo had been on Oahu the day before, but on December 22, they hopped a red-eye to San Francisco after hearing about a once-in-a-lifetime swell. The next day, though, the surf had changed from glassy 50-footers to mushy 25-footers. Foo had surfed bigger, gnarlier waves previously, but he dipped in on an otherwise average wave, went over the falls, and disappeared. His lifeless body sank to the water’s surface. Foo re-imagined what it meant to be a professional surfer. He demonstrated that large wave surfers are athletes and artists and a realistic career option. Sion Milosky (August 10, 1976 – March 16, 2011) Sion Milosky was an undisputed hero among the working class. He was a welder who developed his business on Oahu and lived for two things beyond all else: his family and his work. Big surf was the second. He traveled around legendary North Shore lineups, including Pipeline, Himalayas, and Waimea Bay, near the end of his life. Nonetheless, his wife and two children were always his top focus. He was once asked what he would do if he only had six months to live in an interview. He said without hesitation, “Spend time with the family.” His devotion to his family, on the other hand, had no bearing on his surfing. The Kauai native was born into a family of surfers naturally adept in big waves. Milosky was an underground inventor in both the tow and paddle-in movements. He was a former professional longboarder who essentially started surfing large waves because he could stay close to home. And the surfing world began to notice him: in 2011, he was voted Surfing magazine’s Underground Charger of the Year, and he won $25,000. He reportedly spent the money on that fateful trip to Half Moon Bay. When asked what superpower he would choose in that same interview, he replied, “Eternal life.” Sion Milosky, then 35, of Kalaheo, Kauai, died while surfing Maverick’s in Northern California, causing tragedy in the surfing world. According to the Santa Cruz Sentinel, Sion had caught a number of waves before taking a two-wave hold-down and drowning. According to the article, Nathan Fletcher discovered Sion’s body floating about a mile from the lineup. Donnie Solomon (? – December 23, 1995) Donnie Solomon, who grew up surfing in Ventura, California, was an obvious talent to watch. Solomon was sitting in the lineup with Ross Clark-Jones during an extraordinary session at Waimea Bay when they paddled for a set’s opening wave. Clark-Jones caught and rode the wave, but Solomon got himself into a bad situation and ended up inside. The waves were just getting more prominent as they approached. When Solomon tried to paddle outside, he didn’t make it—he was two-thirds up the face when the wave decided to break, throwing him over the lip. He couldn’t be revived once he reappeared. Solomon, a Red Cross supporter, would stop by local chapters while tracking waves and racing on the WQS, inspiring other surfers to do the same. He believed that lifeguarding and safety training in first aid and CPR were essential for all water sports like surfing, particularly the youth. Todd Chesser (February 16, 1968 – February 13, 1997) Todd Chesser was born on February 16, 1968, in the state of Florida. After his father was killed in a car accident … Read more

A Californian legend and focus point of the unforgettable surf film “Chasing Mavericks”, Jay Moriarity is a name that every surf lover has heard of and come to respect. During his short life of only 22 years, Jay made a name for himself as the youngest person to surf Mavericks at the time, and a spirit that everyone in the community welcomed with open arms. Jay was not only loved for his confidence and skill in the water but was said to always be happy, stoked, and considerate to everyone around him. The Early Life of Jay Moriarity Born on June 16, 1978, in Augusta, Georgia, James Michael Moriarity became the first son of Doug and Christy. Shortly after his birth, Jay and his parents moved to Santa Cruz, California, but little did they know about how much of an effect it would have on the future of Jay’s life. Living in the home of some of the world’s best surf, Jay quickly picked up the sport and surfed his first wave at the age of nine at the well-known break, Sewer Peak. Jay became a well-established longboarder and a well-versed shortboard rider. Not only was Jay skilled when riding a board, but was known to be a strong paddler and swimmer. Introduction to Big Wave Surfing Jay recalled a conversation between Frosty (Richard Hesson) and Terry Simms.  They were talking about big waves, and Frosty was talking about Mavericks. From that day forward, I just pretty much went berserk about it.”  “I was always trying to figure where it was. Every day that’s all I could talk about, and I hadn’t even surfed the place or seen it.” It was clear that Jay had become obsessed. Rick “Frosty” Hesson, the Mentor to Madness When Jay was only 13 he embarked on a life-changing, physical, and mental journey with his newfound mentor, and future dear friend, Frosty. This unlikely duo of a 13-year-old Moriarity and 45-year-old Frosty would spend the next two years training for Jay’s first ride at Mavericks. Frosty not only taught Jay how to ride large waves, but put him through an extensive training program where Jay would need to study waves, breaks, and currents, write multiple essays on each topic, do nothing more than paddle for hours on end, and practice visualization techniques. Frosty made it his biggest priority to ensure that Jay had all the possible training before facing the challenge that is Mavericks. Chasing Mavericks It was in April 1994, two years after they began their training that Jay and Frosty made their history together. At the age of 15, Jay faced his first paddle out at Mavericks and dropped in on his first wave. Riding a wave between 15 and 18 feet, Jay said “It felt like I had climbed Mount Everest or won a gold medal at the Olympics.” Jay further tried to explain the way it made him feel by saying “You really can’t explain it. The two years before that, I’d been working up to it, and it was kind of a dream come true. You just want to scream. It’s the best feeling ever.” A Mavericks Legend Although Jay had already defeated the odds by not only being one of the only people alive to have surfed Mavericks, but also the youngest, his true moment of fame did not come until December 19, 1994, only eight months after his first wave at Mavericks. When arriving at the break, the waves were monstrous, the wind was fierce, and there were photographers everywhere. Being the fearless character that he was, Jay paddled out and dropped in on a monster wave. Unluckily, Jay was caught in the lip and free fell 40 feet. This massive wipeout was caught on camera and later nicknamed “The Iron Cross.” This iconic wipeout made the cover of Surfer magazine’s May 1995 issue and truly brought Jay to the limelight of the surf community. Final Years Jay married his long-time girlfriend Kim, in 2000. Kim and Jay had been together since Jay was being mentored by Frosty, and stuck with him, showing support until the end. A year after being Married Jay Moriarity would surf his last wave at Mavericks. According to Jeff Clark (a big wave surfing pioneer), Jay’s last wave was one of his best. Jay dropped into a deep, dark, behemoth of a tube, showing why he was and remains at “legend” status. Jay was preparing to become a firefighter and had recently finished his EMT Entrance Examination at Cabrillo College when everything changed. The End of a Much Too Short Era Jay Moriarity’s short, but influential life ended on June 15, 2001, a single day before his 23rd birthday. No one knows exactly what happened to Jay, but it is believed that he experienced a shallow water blackout (a common danger faced by freedivers where the diver loses consciousness after a long breath-hold). When Jay did not come home for dinner after his breath-holding training, a search party was sent to the beach on Lohifushi Island, where he was last seen. Jay was supposedly found at the bottom of the ocean sitting with his eyes closed in complete peace, almost as if he had simply chosen not to go up. As expected, Jay’s death came as a shock to his friends, family, and the entire surfing community. Although Jay was no longer alive, local surfers made an effort to maintain his name. Live Like Jay “Live like Jay” was painted on a wall in Santa Cruz by local surfers after Jay’s passing. Jay was an inspiration in the Californian waters as surfers tended to be cold, unfriendly, and serious, but this was not who Jay was. It is said that Jay was always smiling in the lineup, cracking jokes, and spreading both stoke and love. “Live like Jay” is a reminder to appreciate all the wonders of the world, charge life like Jay charged Mavericks, and that it is through connections with … Read more