Top Gear and Tips for Every Level of Surfers

The Best Female Big Wave Surfers in the World

April 18, 2023by Luke Morris

keala kennelly one of the best female big wave surfers sponsored by the best surf brands

You only have to paddle out at your local to notice. Lineups are still majorly male-dominated, and while things are changing, surfing has always been this way. This is particularly true in waves of consequences, with only a handful of women tackling the biggest and scariest waves in the world. But things are on the up for women’s surfing and women’s big wave surfing! After the WSL’s equal prize money announcement in 2019 and an established women’s big wave world tour, the future is bright for females and big waves. That said, there will only ever be a select few surfers (both male and female) with the mindset and skill required to ride waves that can kill you. In this article, we look into the lives of the women at the forefront of big-wave surfing. These are the women pushing boundaries and breaking down the barriers of “possibility.” We’ll dive into the history of women’s big wave surfing, learning about the pioneers who paved the way for the up-and-coming crop of young female big wave chargers. We’ll also look at the challenges associated with women’s big-wave riding and what the future holds for the sport. We have a lot to get through, so let’s dive in! The History of Female Big Wave Surfing Surfing big waves has been at the core of our sport since its Hawaiian origins. When locals first tackled North Shore spots, previously deemed unrideable on old 9ft+ guns. The sport quickly grew in popularity worldwide as new big-wave spots were discovered, and small groups of dedicated big-wave chargers began popping up around the globe. This select group became known as big wave surfers, which has grown to include globally renowned professionals and “do it for” the love swell chasers, men, and women. Some of the first women in that group included Keala Kennelly, from Kauai, and Maya Gabeira, from Rio, two of the first women to tackle the scariest waves in the world. Mavericks, Teahupoo, Jaws, Nazare, Ghost Trees–big wave spots as dangerous and mystical as their names suggest! The Best Female Big Wave Surfers in the World An increasing number of female big-wave surfers chase swells, compete on the WSL women’s big-wave world tour, and ride stand-out waves during major swell events. This includes both younger and upcoming riders and pioneers. Here are some of the most notable figures in women’s big wave surfing. Keala Kennelly Hailing from Kauai, Hawaii, Keala Kennelly is synonymous with women’s big wave surfing. Keala was and still is at the forefront of female big wave surfing and among the first to surf death-defying spots such as Teahupoo, Pipeline, and Waimea. To this day, Keala is one of the best female big-wave surfers in the world. After spending ten years on the Women’s World Championship Tour (WCT), the Hawaiian celebrated wins at Teahupoo and Pipeline before quitting the tour to pursue careers in music and acting. Despite moving away from competitive surfing in everyday waves, Keala never stopped riding big waves and went on to compete in multiple big wave events. She took out the first-ever women’s big wave contest at Nelscott Reef, Oregon, in 2010 and is known for riding one of the biggest barrels ever ridden by a female at Puerto Escondido in Mexico. Kennelly is also famous for sustaining one of the most horrific wipeouts in surfing history, slicing her face open after face planting the reef on the “Code Red” swell at Teahupoo. Maya Gabeira Another huge name in women’s big wave surfing. Maya Gabeira has been pushing what’s possible for the past decade. Maya, originally from Rio, moved to Australia and Hawaii to surf bigger, more perfect waves. She holds the Guinness world record for the biggest wave ever surfed – a 73ft mountain at Nazare. The ride happened just a few years after she almost drowned at the same spot. Maya has won multiple Billabong XXL awards and was the first woman to tackle Ghost Trees, Teahupoo, and Nazare—a true icon of female big wave surfing. Paige Alms You only have to pull up some Jaws clips to see Paige Alms crop up. Paige is one of the best female big wave riders and has had some of the best waves of all time at Jaws. She lives only minutes from Jaws, which many consider the best big wave in the world. Originally from Canada, Alms moved to the wave-rich island paradise of Maui aged 9. She would take to surfing quickly and eventually progress onto bigger and bigger waves–going on to collect multiple big wave accolades. She has been nominated for the WSL Ride of the Year award and Performer of the Year and took out the Women’s Big Wave World Tour in 2016. In 2023, she became one of the first women ever to surf in the iconic Eddie Aikau event at Waimea Bay. It’s also worth noting Paige, despite a few small sponsors, is mostly self-funded in her pursuit of big waves surfer, working odd jobs to chase swells and follow her passion. Justine Dupont Justine Dupont is a professional big-wave surfer from South West France. She surfs well in anything from 2ft to 20ft and beyond and is a leading figure in female big wave surfing. She was the first woman ever to surf Belharra in the Basque Country and is a repeated stand-out in big wave sessions. With a 2021 Ride of the Year award, Nazare Tow Challenge Title, XXL Performer of the Year award, and Women’s Performer at Mavericks award to her name, the accolades speak for themselves. She also rode one of the biggest waves ever ridden by a female back in 2022, with a massive tow wave tube at Jaws. Seriously, the thing is crazy, and I’d highly suggest checking it out here. Sarah Gerhardt Sarah Gerhart is an interesting figure in women’s big wave surfing and one of the few on our list who isn’t a professional surfer. Gerdhart is a chemistry teacher who … Read more

Bethany Hamilton: A Story of Surfing, Adversity & Inspiration

April 14, 2023by Luke Morris

Bethany Hamilton carving a wave with only one arm wearing best surf brands of all time as sponsors

The incredible story of a young Hawaiian surfer who lost her arm in a shark attack. There are few more inspiring stories in sport, let alone surfing, than that of Bethany Hamilton. A truly inspirational figure who’s experienced something more traumatic and overcome a challenge that most of us will never experience. But Bethany Hamilton hasn’t simply overcome a barrier but gone on to excel and compete with the world’s best, redefining what’s possible on a surfboard and pushing women’s surfing. Bethany’s remarkable story has been well documented in the mainstream media, with TV shows, books, and even a Hollywood movie, recreating her journey for the world to see. Today, we take a deeper dive into the life of Bethany, going beneath the surface into her story, from where she grew, how the fateful day played out, and what happened next. We’ll also explore her journey through a remarkable recovery, her return to competitive surfing, her personal life, the accolades she’s collected, and where Bethany is today. We’re in for a heck of a story, so grab a cuppa and let’s dive in! Growing up in Kuaui Bethany Meliani Hamilton was born in Kauai, Hawaii, on February 8, 1990. Kauai is a paradisical island with world-class waves, although you wouldn’t know it as the island remains an “underground spot,” and no filming is allowed there. The high wave quality and lack of crowds make it one of the best places on earth to grow up as a surfer. As a budding surfer, 13-year-old Bethany juggled school, free surfing, and competing in national surf contests. This was how things played out in Hawaii for any up-and-coming surf grom. Her best friend, an aspiring professional surfer, and model, Alana Blanchard, surfed with Beth regularly, and their families were tight friends. What the two families didn’t know was that on one day in October 2003, everything would change forever. The Shark Attack It began as any typical day would on Kauai’s north shore, an early rise, healthy breakfast, talking about where to surf, discussing conditions, and gathering up surf stuff. Tunnels Beach, known locally as Makua, would be the surf spot of choice on this particular day. Bethany, Alana, Alana’s father, and brother would all meet up that morning and, after the short drive out to the beach, waxed up and paddled out together. The waves are fun, in the 3-4ft range, and the four trade waves together. It’s a beautiful morning, and the vibe is happy, ecstatic even. There is a long lull, a gap in surfing where no waves come through, and the four surfers bob in the water, chatting while eagerly awaiting the next set. Bethany lies flat, stomach down on her surfboard, talking with Alana. Her arms are dangling off the rails of her surfboard, hanging in the water. As she’s talking, Bethany’s arm is gripped and pulled by an incredible force. A 14-foot tiger shark rises from her left side and locks its teeth around Betahny’s arm, ripping it off. The water turns red, and the Blanchard family scrambles to help Bethany. They help her paddle to shore, and on the sands of tunnels beach, Alana’s father fashions a tourniquet from a torn-up rash vest and leg rope. They jump in their truck and race to the hospital. As they’re driving, Bethany goes into hypovolemic shock, and the blood loss is severe. It’s said by the time Hamilton reached Wilcox Memorial Hospital, she had lost over 60% of her blood. As it happened, Bethany’s father was in the same hospital that morning, about to undergo knee surgery. But as his daughter is rushed into the building, he gives up his bed and postpones his surgery. Doctors save Bethany’s life, and after recovering for a short time in the hospital, she is taken home. After a few weeks, 13-year-old Bethany is already back in the water. The Recovery & Return to Surfing In an event that would put most off surfing for life, Bethany was surfing again just weeks after the attack. But returning to surfing certainly wasn’t a case of picking up where she left off. Instead, young Bethany would have to learn to surf again and adapt to using one arm—an incredible feat. The learning process involved changing how she popped up to her feet and attaching a handle to the board’s deck. Initially, she rode a longer, thicker board as she improved her new standing technique. Eventually, she returned to the performance shortboards she used in competition, pre-attack. This alone is a testament to her determination and will to overcome adversity. A challenge most would not overcome. However, Hamilton wasn’t content with simply getting back in the water. Instead, she went on to chase her professional surfing dream, competing with the world’s best women and becoming one of the most influential and inspiring surfers ever to walk the planet. The Hawaiian has an extensive list of accolades and competitive highlights to show this. Bethany’s Achievements and Accolades Bethany has competed on the world stage, battling it out with the best in the world in some of the best waves, many of them heavy waves of consequence. Bethany has appeared in and achieved impressive results in many international contests, including top-level WSL events: 2010: 9th place Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2010: 3rd place Women’s Fiji Pro 2011: 13th place Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach 2012: Rip Curl Cup Padang Padang invitee 2022: 9th place Billabong Pro Pipeline These are all notable achievements in waves of consequence. These events are held in waves that humble even the most hard-charging surfers in the world. Cloudbreak, a powerful freight train barrel in Fiji. Padang, a wide open tube in Bali. Supertubos, a thumping beachie in Portugal, and Pipeline, a wave that needs no introduction. These waves are no joke; anyone who competes at them is on a short list of surf talent. Bethany continues to show prowess in waves of this nature, most notably at Pipeline. During the 2022 … Read more

Exploring the World of Kai Lenny: Surfer, Innovator & Icon

April 7, 2023by Luke Morris

Kai Lenny big wave surfer on a SUP in Hawaii on a huge wave at Maui

Few figures in surfing are as versatile; even fewer have pushed the boundaries of what can be ridden, and fewer still have achieved the highest accolades across multiple watersports disciplines. There are some amazing watermen out there, from big wave chargers incredible to crazy fit paddle racers, skilled SUP riders, and incredible surf talent. However, no one has the prowess to match this now-legendary Hawaiin. The figure in question? Enter, Kai Lenny. This article dives into the life of the renowned big wave rider and waterman. We’ll dive into all aspects of Kai’s life, from where he grew up and his entry into surfing, how he learned so many different sports, his personal life, the many accolades he has collected, and how Kai’s life extends beyond surfing. The man has done a heck of a lot for someone only 30 years old, meaning we have a lot to get through, so let’s jump in! Who is Kai Lenny? Kai Lenny is a legendary Hawaiian surfer and waterman many call the best waterman to have ever walked the earth. Lenny competes at the top level and has won awards across multiple watersports disciplines, including surfing, big wave surfing, SUP’ing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, and paddle racing. Reaching the top level of just one of these sports is tough, and most dedicate their entire lives to do so. But competing at the highest level across multiple demanding watersports that’s unheard of. And winning in all of them? Well, that’s Kai Lenny. Kai Lenny was born to Californian parents on the island of Maui in October 1992. The sleepy Hawaiian island of Maui is incredibly wave-rich and has some of the world’s best surf and windsurf spots. His parents, originally from California, bought a property on the beach and were both avid windsurfers, so their move to the island was no coincidence. Young Kai was introduced to windsurfing at a ridiculously early age. It’s said he was introduced to windsurfing at the age of 4! He was also surfing at 6, supping at 7, and kite surfing at nine. Kai’s Impact on Big Wave Surfing When it comes to big waves, only a handful of riders have impacted and revolutionized how big waves are ridden. Kai has been at the forefront of pushing the limits in waves of consequence, and legendary figures such as Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama are among those who paved the way and inspired young Kai to do what he does. Today, Kai shares big wave line-ups around the world with a high-profile roster of big wave names. Guys like Koa Rothman, Nate Florence, Jamie Mitchell, and Grant Baker are some of Kai’s sparring partners in massive ways. But while all these guys constantly push the limits of how big waves are ridden, none have taken the same approach as Kai. When you watch Kai surf big waves, and if you haven’t, I’d highly recommend checking out his YouTube channel; you can see the different lines he draws on large waves, trying to ride 30ft monstrosities as if it were a three-footer at your local beachie. It’s a bold and exciting way of riding big waves and an approach that sets Kai apart. Even so, when the biggest swells happen around the world, whether it be Jaws, Puerto Escondido, Nazare, or Teahupoo, Kai is consistently among the few pushing the limits of what’s rideable – taking incredibly critical lines and knifing under waves that were for years considered unsurfable. Before we check out some of Kai’s extensive list of accolades and achievements, let’s take a closer look at his early life. Is Kai Lenny the Best Big Wave Surfer? Asking if Kai Lenny is the best big-wave surfer in the world is a tough question. While Kai’s skill in crazy waves is unquestioned, many variables are involved in big-wave surfing (and surfing in general, for that matter) that make it almost impossible to determine the “best” rider. There is a roster of around 10-20 expert big wave surfers that could rival Kai in big wave surfing and whom Kai competed with as part of the WSL’s Big Wave World Tour. While the tour aims to provide a fair competitive platform for big-wave surfers, the unpredictable nature of these swells and the fact that they only run if a swell gets big enough make it hard to determine a true winner. Swells of this magnitude are also susceptible to long lulls, and if you’ve ever watched a big wave contest online, you’ll understand. Big wave contests often fail to live up to expectations and don’t give enough of a window for finding the right waves. A better way to determine the best big wave surfer would be to watch videos and see who’s riding the best, biggest, heaviest (and scariest) waves on swells at multiple locations. But contest or no contest, Kai is undoubtedly up there with the best big wave surfers in the world and has an extensive list of achievements to back it. Kai’s Accolades & Achievements As you’d expect from such a high-profile and established waterman, Kai’s list of achievements is long–too many to name here. However, here are some of the most notable. 2022 2nd place big wave world tour 2020 1st place in Nazare tow challenge 2018 2nd big wave world tour 2016 1st SUP World Cup 2016 2nd ISA world surf championships 2015 2nd place Molokai to Oahu paddle race These are just a handful of Kai’s achievements, and the Hawaiian has won many more awards and accolades for his part in surfing and watersports. For a complete list of Kai’s accomplishments, check out his Red Bull athlete profile. Kai’s Personal Life Kai is currently married to Molly Payne, an interior designer from Maui who happens to be the sister of Dusty Payne, another high-profile surfer who has competed on the WSL Championship Tour and starred in cult surf films such as Lost Atlas. If you haven’t checked that out already, I’d suggest stopping what … Read more

Slater Designs Review | Epic Boards or Rip Off?

April 1, 2023by Luke Morris

Performance is the main factor that surfers consider in looking for an exceptional surfboard. Most surfers would look for a shortboard, and fish surfboard when it comes to improving their skills, and Firewire is one of the respected brands. The quality of every surfboard they make is outstanding, which many users love because it doesn’t compromise the performance regardless of any wave condition. Aside from that, this brand doesn’t only offer high-quality and performing surfboards. It also collaborates with renowned surfers, such as Kelly Slater. The collaboration with the 11-time champion introduced a set of boards with minimalistic styles in white, black, and gray colors. Top 6 Slater Designs Surfboards Reviewed Firewire is one of the popular surfboard brands, and if you need an exceptional fish or shortboard surfboard, you should check out its collection. Here is a Slater Designs review to help you decide what to buy. Slater Designs Gamma Shortboard Surfboard Slater Designs Sci-Fi Shortboard Surfboard Slater Designs Cymatic Shortboard Surfboard Slater Designs No Brainer Fish Surfboard Slater Designs Houdini Shortboard Surfboard Slater Designs FRK Shortboard Surfboard #1. Slater Designs Gamma Shortboard Surfboard Firewire is one of the brands that surfers love because of its top-performing surfboards. If you’re looking for a shortboard-type, you should check out the Slater Designs Gamma Shortboard Surfboard. This surfboard comes in a meek style, having a white and black combination. It looks very classy with its design from the top deck to the bottom. Plus, it’s available in various sizes, ranging from 4 feet and 8 inches to 6 feet and 8 inches. You can count on this board’s durability as it comes from an excellent quality of materials, featuring the HELIUM technology. Aside from that, the volume-levels of this board range from 14.8 liters to 47.3 liters. Despite having a minimalistic style, it’s long-lasting and damage-resistant. When it comes to performance, this surfboard is very agile. It comes in a single concave shape with a vee, along with the thruster box. Also, it features a noticeable hip, which lets surfers make tight turns without any hassle. Another thing that makes it ideal for intermediate to professional surfers is the easiness to control during forceful movements. #2. Slater Designs Sci-Fi Shortboard Surfboard Aside from shortboards, Firewire offers a competitive collection of shortboards for all surfer-levels with Slater Designs. If you need one for improving skills, you can never go wrong with the Sci-Fi Shortboard Surfboard. This surfboard features a thrill in the tail-part and impressive Single Concave bottom contours, impacting its performance. You’ll enjoy controlling it as if you’re calmly cruising along waves. Also, it only measures 5 feet and 1 inch to 6 feet and 6 inches, making it is suitable for beginners. Another feature is the medium rails, which make it move quicker despite any wave condition. If you’re up for challenges, this board is what you should ride. Aside from that, the quality is very satisfying, thanks to its sturdy deck. You’ll also love how this board looks meek with Slater Design’s signature style in white and black. Plus, it can accommodate up a volume of 45.2 liters, which makes it ideal for any surfer. #3. Slater Designs Cymatic Shortboard Surfboard Pro surfers became pro with the help of exceptional surfboards, which enhanced their surfing skills at the start of their careers. If you want to be a professional surfer, you should find the best shortboard surfboard. One of Firewire’s most recommended boards is the Slater Designs Cymatic Shortboard Surfboard. This surfboard features the Linear Flex Technology, which makes it a performance-machine for beginners to experts. This hybrid model with a double bat provides exceptional grip to surfers as they execute their tricks. Plus, the Quad-Inside Single Concave contour at the bottom offsets a lift for agility as you ride waves. When it comes to design, it features a minimalistic look. It comes in white and black color combination, which is very pleasing in the eyes. Plus, you can choose from 5 feet to 6 feet and 4 inches, depending on your surfing expertise. Aside from that, it comes with sharp rails, letting surfers control the board with ease despite any surfing conditions. If you’re surfing waves that are 2 feet to 8 feet high, you’ll enjoy using this board. #4. Slater Designs No Brainer Fish Surfboard If you need an attractive and performing longboard, Firewire has something to offer, such as the Slater Designs No Brainer Fish Surfboard. It’s not only a head-turner, but it also provides optimum performance as surfers ride it on 1-foot to 5-foot waves. Another reason why customers love this board is because of its concave bottom contour. This shape makes it easier for surfers to maneuver it regardless of size, ranging from 5 feet to 6 feet and 6 inches. You can guarantee full control as you ride it because it’s not too lengthy. Plus, the volume is up to 49.2 liters, making it favorable to any surfer when it comes to maneuvering. This fish surfboard is ideal for beginners to professionals because of its Linear Flex Technology. It comes with a rocker, and a flip on the tail and nose, assuring exceptional performance as you enhance your skills. Plus, the tail-design provides the speed you need as you glide along waves. #5. Slater Designs Houdini Shortboard Surfboard If you’re looking for a reliable shortboard for training or competitions, Firewire is one of the top brands to consider. One of the recommended surfboards from its collection with Slater Designs is the Houdini Shortboard Surfboard. This board’s versatility never fails to meet surfers’ expectations regarding performance because it’s ideal for newbies to experts. The Linear Flex Technology makes it more accessible to control regardless of any wave condition. If you frequently surf 5-foot to 10-foot waves, you’ll love this board because it moves smoothly. Aside from that, its volume doesn’t compromise the convenience of paddling. Surfers find it easier to maneuver in any direction. Plus, it maintains a tapered rail for maximum control and … Read more

‘100 Foot Wave’ Garrett McNamara Series

March 14, 2023by Luke Morris

Garrett McNamara big wave surfer with surf board, as starring in his series 100 ft wave

Have you heard about the legendary big wave surfer Garrett McNamara? Garrett gained international recognition for surfing a 100-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, back in 2011. This surfer board in Pittsfield, Massachusetts, began surfing at a young age and soon became fascinated with the thrills of catching large waves. He soon started traveling around the world to catch the biggest waves. Known for pushing the limits of what is possible on a surfboard. And in no time, Garrett McNamara’s feat in Nazaré cemented his legacy as one of the greatest big wave surfers ever. Garrett has inspired a new generation of surfers to pursue the thrill of massive waves. What Is this ‘100 Foot Wave’ Netflix Documentary About Garrett McNamara? So, is there a documentary about riding the biggest wave? Well, yes, HBO has produced a documentary about McNamara titled “100 Foot Wave.” This HBO surfing documentary is a chronicle about Garrett’s journey to surf the world’s largest waves. It premiered on HBO on July 18, 2021, and soon enthusiast surfers can watch the 100 Foot Wave online on other networks like HBO Max, Netflix, Amazon Prime, and so on. Directed by Chris Smith, the 100 Foot Wave is a single-season series with six episodes focusing on Garrett’s time in Nazaré, where he hoped to find and conquer a 100-foot wave. The documentary captures the intensity and drama of that historical moment and the emotional and physical toll it took on Garrett. Overall, the series is an inspiring and thrilling documentary celebrating big-wave surfers‘ skill and bravery. Will there be a season 2, and if so, when is the 100 Foot Wave season 2 release date? In August 2021, HBO renewed the series for a second season. So, if you fascinate the culture and community of big surfers, stay tuned for the release date of the surfing documentary Netflix 100 Foot wave season 2 in 2023 by HBO. Synopsis of the Episodes of Garrett McNamara 100 Foot Wave Amazon Prime, HBO, Netflix The 100 Foot wave big wave documentary Netflix explores the mindset of big wave surfers. The series explores the sacrifices and dedication required of surfers to pursue such an intense passion. Garrett’s pursuit of surfing feat was broken down into six chapters in the series and are as follows. Chapter 1: Sea Monsters Aired on July 18, 2021, chapter 1 of the series begins with professional surfer Garrett retiring to pursue his lifelong dream of riding a 100-foot wave after winning at a competition at Maui’s world-famous Jaw surf break in 2003. In 2010, Garrett and his wife Nicole invited big wave surfers to Nazaré, Portugal. Chapter II: We’re Not Surfers Chapter II, aired on July 25, 2021, reviews Garrett and their team reconvening in Nazaré in 2011. In this reconvene, Garratt and his team kicked preparations into high gear to prepare for the upcoming attempt to make history as he catches a nearly 80-foot tall wave that captures him to international fame. And as expected, there were some unexpected hurdles with Garrett catching the epic wave that will forever change him, the small seaside town, and even the legacy of the sport. Chapter III: Mavericks Chapter III, titled Mavericks, aired on August 1, 2021. It remunerates Garrett’s challenges at Nazaré and his decision to return to competitive surfing at big wave sites in 2017. But before this, he visited his mother, whose presence promoted this exploration. Also in this chapter is the drama of a group of Brazilians who arrived at Nazaré in 2013 but failed to head to Garrett’s safety tips, which resulted in a near-fatal accident. Chapter IV: Dancing With God In 2017, several prominent surfers flocked to Nazaré for its largest swell. This episode aired on August 8, 2021, with Andrew Cotton suffering a devastating wipeout. n 2019, after rallying through a back-to-back concussion and a broken foot, Garrett sustained another injury that threatened to permanently remove him as a big wave surfer. Meanwhile, his friend catches an 80-foot wave at Nazaré when big wave surfing, taking the Guiness world record from McNamara. Chapter V: The Circus Aired on August 15, 2021, chapter V of the 100-foot wave follows after the World Surf League announced that Nazaré would host the upcoming big wave competition; prominent from around the globe flocks to Nazaré to participate in the tournament. But with the event getting closer, so did Garrett’s concerns over the proposed safety of protocols, and they tried to convince organizers to beef up their plans. On top of that, he struggles with his mental preparedness and physical injuries. Despite the fact he was not ready, seeing other world-class surfers made him consider competing anyways. Chapter VI: More Than Just a Wipeout The final episode of the 100 Foot Wave series aired on August 22, 2021, is set on the day of the Nazaré competition. Garrett decides not to compete but to support his long-time friend and teammate, Andrew Cotton. Sadly, the competition did not go smoothly, with a major accident that had a secondary effect on Cotty. But after the competition, Garratt tried to surf at Nazaré again and realized he could resume big-wave surfing. The episodes conclude with a retrospective of several surfers who appeared in various series episodes. Critiques and Controversy of Garrett McNamara 100 Foot Wave Surfing With big wave surfing becoming more popular, it became a subject of criticism and scrutiny. Some raised questions about the ethics and safety of pushing the limit of what is possible in the ocean. Some even raised criticism about the impact it can have on the environment. But the 100ft Wave Netflix does not shy away from these issues. Rather the series explores the risks involved in big wave surfing and encourages prospective surfers to take proper caution when big waves surge. It addresses the issue of the impact of the sport on the environment and the need for surfers to be responsible for the practices to ensure that the ocean remains a sustainable … Read more

35 Best Surfers of All Time

March 3, 2023by Luke Morris

The most exciting sport in the world but the most difficult to master has to be the gift that was passed on to us by our Polynesian ancestors, the sliding on waves, He’e Nalu in Hawaiian – surfing. Professional surfers identify themselves through the scoreboards of the World Surf League. Soul surfers are either professional in the past or surfers who are so good, they can stand out against participants of several surfing competitions. Soul surfers can go up against professional surfers any time of the day but choose to simply search for the perfect wave without participating in official competitions. In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the world of surfing pro to unveil the top 35 best surfers of all time and the evolution of surfing. From pioneers who paved the way to contemporary stars, each surfer on this list has left an indelible mark on the sport, inspiring generations with their skill, passion, and commitment to riding the waves. The Evolution of Surfing Big Wave Riding From the towering swells of Waimea Bay to the legendary breaks of Mavericks, big wave riding has captivated surfers seeking the ultimate adrenaline rush. Pioneers like Laird Hamilton and Greg Noll have pushed the limits of what’s possible in the realm of big wave surfing, inspiring awe and admiration with their daring exploits. Tow-In Surfing Tow-in surfing, pioneered by Laird Hamilton and Buzzy Kerbox in the 1990s, revolutionized the sport by allowing surfers to ride waves previously deemed unrideable. This innovative technique opened up new frontiers in surfing, leading to the discovery of remote breaks and the pursuit of ever-bigger waves. Progressive Maneuvers In the realm of competitive surfing, progressive maneuvers like aerials and tube rides have become the hallmark of modern performance surfing. Surfers like Gabriel Medina and John John Florence have pushed the boundaries of aerial acrobatics, wowing audiences with their gravity-defying feats. Best Surfers of All Time For the longest time, people have been questioning why surfing has never made it as an official sport to be part of the Olympics. Now, it has. A sport that engages with huge crashing waves, tons of skills, and possibilities of shark attacks deserve to be in the most celebrated international sporting event. Along with that, are the surfers that bested not just other riders but the ocean itself. The best surfers in the world hold not just the greatest skills. They also have it in them the huge impact they have on surfing. It is just right that we recognize them for all of their successes whether they are still active or retired, with us or have passed on. Here are the world’s best surfers of all time: #35. Italo Ferreira (Brazil) Born: May 6, 1994 Birthplace: Baía Formosa, Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil Awards Won: 2011 Quiksilver Pro Junior 2011 Mormaii Pro Junior 2018 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach 2018 Corona Bali Protected 2018 MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2019 Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast 2019 MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2019 Billabong Pipe Masters One of the most explosive surfers in the business, Ítalo Ferreira first gained fame on the Championship Tour in his 2015 rookie season. He did a spellbinding aerial attack and a vicious rail game. It was in these times when he made the semifinals in Rio, quarterfinals in Fiji, and finals in Portugal. He ran away with Rookie of the Year award after completing a remarkable year, ranking at No. 7. Since then, many, even the surfer he looked up to – Mick Fanning considered him serious Title threat. He had his fair share of ups and downs. In 2017, he tore ligaments in his ankle that kept him from finishing the last three steps of the event he was in. In 2019, he showed all his class and potential by finishing as runner up in France and taking out the MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal heading into the Billabong Pipe Masters. #34. Wayne Bartholomew (Australia) Born: November 30, 1954 Birthplace: Tweed Heads, New South Wales Awards Won: 1978 World Surfing Championship 1999 ASP world masters 2003 ASP world grandmaster More popularly known as “Rabbit,” Wayne Bartholomew was a self-made great surfer. In one of the Surfer’s Journal profiles written by Matt Warshaw, he was described in three words: struggle, achievement, style. Truly it was his approach into the vortex of all his rides. He was nicknamed “Rabbit” as he was a speedster on the soccer field. Rabbit started surfing at the age of 13 when he moved to Kirra. He first rode at Snapper Rocks and moved to his formative years riding the famed Gold Coast Pointbreak. No one in the world has counted more tube time than Rabbit has. In 2008, a documentary telling about his life was released – “Bustin’ Down the Door.” It told about his influence on the generation which is more than just winning titles. Perhaps his biggest gift to professional surfing was when he serves as the President of ASP International from 1999 through 2008. #33. Joel Tudor (United States) Born: June 11, 1976 Birthplace: San Diego, California, United States Awards Won: 1998 ASP Longboard World Championship 2004 ASP Longboard World Championship 8-time United States Open of longboarding champion Joel Tudor is perhaps the only living surfer who showcases more style and grace on the board. Making a living off his ability to ride both skateboard and surfboard, he sure has perfected riding any craft in any water condition. Described as “the finest longboard surfer of all time” by The Surfer’s Journal, Joel Tudor became the first new-age longboarder who made it as the cover of Surfer. He excelled in different areas of surfing and has always been a representation of surfers who can ride any board no matter what the conditions call for. Right now he is busy creating the longboarding platform for the next generation. He still surfs since it serves as the balance that allows him to do other stuff. And, … Read more

Eddie Would Go: Surf Slang You Need to Know

February 27, 2023by Luke Morris

“Eddie would go” is one of the most widely used phrases in surf culture, even four decades after the Eddie in question was last seen alive. What made this Eddie so special among the surfing community that his name would still be revered long after he was gone? Read on to learn why this phrase still resonates among surfers worldwide and how it began with one humble yet wildly talented surfer, Eddie Aikau. Eddie Aikau: Lifeguard, Surfer, Local Legend Born in 1946 in Kahului, Maui, a Hawaiian island, Eddie Aikau would later move to O’ahu with his family and, as a teenager, began working in the Dole Pineapple cannery in the early 1960s. This was when Hawaii was still one of the world’s largest exporters of pineapples, and Eddie used his earnings from the job to purchase his first surfboard, which would ultimately change the trajectory of his life. But it was not only Eddie’s life that would be changed by his love affair with the ocean—he saved hundreds of lives as Waimea Bay’s first lifeguard. Eddie would brave the waves to rescue surfers and swimmers in peril, no matter how high. His days as a lifeguard were unmarked by a single failure, having lost no lives during the time he watched over the seas. Just as he found unmatched success as a lifeguard, Eddie was quietly developing his talent as a big wave surfer. He would reach the finals in the Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship six times before winning the event in 1977. Eddie Aikau was a humble and modest man whose passion was chasing the biggest waves and doing it for the thrill of it, not for awards and accolades. Only after he was gone did the masses truly recognize Eddie’s skill, and his influence on other surfers began to grow. What Happened to Eddie Aikau? Sadly, Eddie Aikau’s life was cut short and ended in tragedy, though perhaps fittingly, he spent his final moments in the waters he loved. Eddie’s adventurous spirit was tested when he volunteered to go on a 30-day voyage with the Polynesian Voyaging Society, tracing a 2,500-mile route representing the ancient Polynesian migration journey. This route between the Hawaiian and Tahitian island chains was not for the faint of heart, and despite his incredible skills as a lifeguard and surfer, Eddie would not survive the journey. The canoe Eddie was traveling in capsized after a leak, and he attempted to paddle to land on his surfboard, but Eddie would never make it to safety. Did They Ever Find Eddie Aikau? The US Coast Guard Cutter Cape Corwin was able to rescue the other members of Eddie’s crew, but he was never found, and his body was not recovered, despite a massive air and sea search for him. His death is recorded as March 18, 1978, with remains never located at sea. Eddie left behind a wife, Linda Crosswhite, and a brother, Clyde, who would carry on Eddie’s legacy and love of North Shore surfing. Who Said ‘Eddie Would Go’? The popular surf culture phrase “Eddie Would Go” has been attributed to surfer Mark Foo, another legend in the surfing world. Foo chased big waves just as Eddie Aikau had before him and was once rescued by a helicopter after a 1986 North Shore excursion where onlookers noted the waves were over 6 feet. He later died in a tragic surfing accident in Half Moon Bay in California in 1994. Foo was present for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational in 1985, a big wave contest held to honor Eddie’s legacy. A stipulation of the event (which has been held 34 times and is lauded as the “Super Bowl of Surfing”) is that waves must be consistently 20 feet or higher, making it both a thrilling and dangerous surf competition. At the 1985 event, organizers had some concerns about the 25-foot waves and debated whether or not to proceed. As the story goes, Mark Foo pushed them forward with three simple yet powerful words: “Eddie would go.” What Does Eddie Would Go Mean? “Eddie would go” is now a phrase used by surfers all across the globe to represent courage in the face of the unknown. It is a motto for those who chase big waves or any thrill seeker propelled by a sense of daring and adventure. “Eddie would go” also represents the fighting spirit found in a man who braved the biggest waves to save others. It is an especially poignant saying for native Hawaiians, who remember the brave yet humble surfer and lifeguard and what he represents in their culture and heritage. That legacy lives on in Eddie’s brother Clyde, who ultimately won the first Eddie Aikau Invitational (after a tiebreaker with Mark Foo). Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman digs deeper into the legacy of both the man and the indelible mark the saying has made on surf culture. Eddie Sayings in Surf and Popular Culture The influence of Eddie Aikau lives on in a number of other phrases well-known among the best surfers who chase big waves. “Eddie Wouldn’t Crow” is used in the surfing and beach community as a reminder of this humble man who would not have bragged about his accomplishments. “Eddie Wouldn’t Tow” is used as a sort of purist statement against tow-in surfing, as Eddie was devoted to paddling into the surf. “Eddie Would Hoe” links this native Hawaiian’s determination and spirit to some of the state’s agricultural outreach programs. Even the Honolulu Rail Transit project jumped on board with “Eddie Would Ride.” Eddie Aikau’s spirit lives on in the surfing and beach community and among all Hawaiians who honor him as a man who saved lives, dared to chase the biggest waves, and did it all with great humility.Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing … Read more

Top 5 Best Big Wave Surfers

January 3, 2023by Luke Morris

The largest wave ever surfed (that has been recorded) was 78ft. That’s approximately the size of an 8-story building. When we speak of surfing as an extreme sport, big-wave surfers truly live up to the name by facing waves more than 20ft in size and traveling at speeds of 80 km/h and faster. Big wave surfers such as Jeff Clark, Eddie Aikau, and Shane Dorian are a breed of their own. Below is a list of some of the most iconic, influential, and experienced big-wave surfers that the surfing community has to offer. Best Big Wave Surfers Because what we all consider “the best” is subjective, it is impossible to decide who is or was the best big wave surfer of all time. That being said, here is a list of some of the most iconic big-wave surfers of all time. Eddie Aikau One of the most respected names in the world of surfing, Eddie Aikau, born in Kahului, Hawaii, in 1946 transformed from being the first official lifeguard hired by the City & County of Honolulu to becoming a legendary big wave surfer that every surfer has heard of. According to Eddie’s younger brother Clyde, he was “high risk at an early age” and although quiet, was always ready for a challenge or something risky. Summary Date: May 1946 – March 1978 Place of birth: Kahului, Hawaii Famous for surfing: Waimea Bay Interesting Facts: Eddie saved over 500 people as a lifeguard. Eddie never refused to enter the ocean if someone was in trouble and never lost a single person. Eddie was lost at sea after embarking on a historic migration route between the Hawaiian and Tahitian islands. After the canoe developed a leak, Eddie attempted to swim to shore for help but was never seen again. Jeff Clark There is only a small handful of surfers that are willing to brave the gigantic waves of Maverick, let alone be the first. Jeff Clark, born in the USA was constantly seeking bigger and stronger waves as he grew up until he discovered Maverick. Being the only person brave (or crazy) enough to paddle out and surf these waves, Jeff surfed Maverick alone for 15 years before he could convince another surfer to join him. When you understand that Maverick can get up to 60 ft, and breaks half a mile for the shore, you will begin to see why Jeff is such a legend. Not only does the wave break far out, but it breaks around a point, which leaves the surfer with a 45-minute maze of rocks and well to get past before they even reach the backline. Summary Date of Birth: March 1957 Place of birth: Redwood City, California. Famous for surfing: Mavericks. Interesting Facts: First person to surf Maverick. Surfed Maverick alone for 15 years. Founder of the Mavericks surf contest. Stared in the films “Riding Giants, Step Into Liquid, Adventures in Wild California, and Discovering Mavericks”. Gregg Noll (Da Bull) Born in California, Gregg Noll was an accomplished lifeguard and one of surfing’s first big wave celebrities. Nicknamed “Da Bull” by Phil Edwards (the first surfer to ride pipeline) for his charging surf style and bull-like physic. Gregg was a pioneer in big wave surfing, particularly for dominating Waimea Bay, which was commonly known as his “gal”. Once called “the Babe Ruth of surfing” by Jim Kempton, the president of the California Surf Museum, Gregg was a fearless big wave surfer, film star, and longboard shaper, just to mention a few. Summary Date: February 1937 – June 2021 Place of birth: San Diego, California. Famous for surfing: Waimea Bay, and Makaha. Interesting Facts: In 1953 Greg moved to Hawaii to live off the land and surf the coastlines with several other surfers. Manufacturer of “Da Cat” surfboards. During a storm in 1969, Greg rode what was deemed to have surfed one of the biggest waves in history at Makaha. Shane Dorian After touring for 11 years as a professional surfer, Shane Dorian gave up his pro career to indulge in the world of big-wave surfing. Since leaving the pro surfing world in 2003, Shane has caught the biggest wave at Waimea, one of the best waves at Jaws of all time, and the biggest paddle-in wave at Nazare. Shane is a force to be reckoned with in the big wave world and remains one of the best big wave surfers of all time. Summary Date of Birth: July 1972. Place of birth: Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. Famous for surfing: Waimea, Jaws, Nazare, Mavericks, Teahupoo, and more. Interesting Facts: Founder of the Shane Dorian Keiki Classic. Billabong has been a long-time main sponsor of Shane. Awarded “Surfer of the Year” by WSL for his wave at Jaws. Laird Hamilton A pioneer of tow-in-surfing, and called the greatest wave rider of all time by many, Laird Hamilton seems to be completely fearless. Not only is Laird one of the inventors of tow-in surfing, but he is also at the core of stand-up paddleboarding, and hydrofoil boarding. This one model has become a legend in the surfing world and was once called “the sport’s most complete surfer” by Surf Magazine. Summary Date of Birth: March 1964. Place of birth: San Francisco, California. Famous for: Being a pioneer in tow-in surfing, Hydrofoil boarding, and stand-up paddleboarding. Interesting Facts: Laird was a model before his surfing career. Laird has been the star in multiple films, as well as taking part as a stuntman in surf scenes. The New York Times bestseller “Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, and, Of Course, Surfing” was released by Laird in 2008, which is now a go-to manual for those seeking inspiration on living a healthy lifestyle. What Is Big Wave Surfing? Big wave surfing is exactly what the name implies – surfing big waves. However, in order to call it big wave surfing the wave needs to be a minimum of 20ft (6m). Big wave surfers are either towed or paddled onto these giants and … Read more

Who is Jay Moriarity? How to “Live Like Jay”

January 2, 2023by Luke Morris

“You just gotta appreciate everything. And that’s one of the most important things in life, is just really appreciating it, because, you know, we only get to do this once, and it’s not for a long time, so, enjoy it.” — Jay Moriarity Just when his career was at its peak, Jay Moriarity died in a freediving accident on June 15, 2001. This left a big gaping hole in the surfing world, as he was known as one of the most passionate and talented surfers during his time. In this post, we’re going to celebrate the life of soul surfer, Jay Moriarity, as well as his notable achievements and the lasting impact he’s made even after his unfortunate demise. Jay Moriarity: The Biography Jay Moriarity was born in Augusta, Georgia on June 16, 1978. Shortly after his birth, his family moved to Santa Cruz, California where he grew up learning how to surf. At age 9, Moriarity already began his career when he surfed the waves of Sewer Peak. He was a versatile surfer who was able to surf using both longboards and shortboards. Moriarity was someone who liked to explore the limits of his abilities. Unlike other riders who only focused on surfing, Moriarity didn’t confine himself to this sport. He was a world-class athlete and a thalassophile by heart. Aside from surfing, he also enjoyed other water sports such as swimming, paddling, fishing, and diving. A lot of people who’s crossed paths with Moriarity described him as a genuine, kind-hearted person who has a positive outlook on life. He was a humble man who always kept a smile. Among his peers, he’s known as the happy-go-lucky guy who was a friendly face in the most aggressive lineups. How His Surfing Career Started Moriarity already had a promising career as a grom. When he was only 12 years old, he won the NSSA (National Scholastic Surfing Association) shortboard competition held in Pleasure Point. It was also during that time that Moriarity met his coach, Frosty Hesson, whom he approached and asked if he could teach him how to surf better. Overhearing Hesson talking with Terry Simms about Mavericks piqued Moriarity’s curiosity, and this ultimately started his career in big wave surfing. It took four years of intense physical and mental training before Hesson allowed Moriarity to surf big waves. At 15 years old, he was already a regular in the heavy lineups of the Mavericks in Half Moon Bay in California. Throughout his career, Moriarity won multiple sportsmanship awards and sponsorship titles. He also co-authored with Chris Gallagher in publishing ‘The Ultimate Guide to Surfing’, a book that lists professional tips and techniques about this sport. The ‘Iron Cross’ of Surfer Magazine Jay Moriarity etched his mark in the surfing world when his legendary wipeout was captured on film by famous photographer, Bob Barbour. On December 19, 1994, Moriarity rode a 50-foot massive wave, and just as he was starting to lose balance and control, the photographer took the shot wherein his arms are stretched out — dubbing the photo the ‘Iron Cross’. Moriarity’s fall was estimated to be 30 to 40 ft in height, leaving him with a surfboard that’s broken in half. The photo was featured on the cover of the 1995 issue of Surfer Magazine. A write-up was also published about it in The New York Times magazine. Jay Moriarity’s Untimely Death Because of his skills and friendly demeanor, Moriarity easily became a crowd favorite, with an impressive following that promised a bright future ahead of him. However, at the young age of 22, Jay Moriarity died alone, miles away from his home due to a free-diving accident. On June 15, 2001, a day before his 23rd birthday, Moriarity went off alone in the Indian Ocean, along the coasts of the Lohifushi Island in the Maldives, and didn’t come back. His friends became skeptical when he wasn’t able to show up for dinner later that night, so they called for a search and rescue team to find him. The next day, Moriarity’s body was found near the diving spot where he went. Investigators say his death was caused by drowning. According to his wife, Kim Moriarity, Jay Moriarity was keen on testing his breathing capabilities. He used to go deep into the ocean without oxygen tanks, which may have caused him to have a shallow water blackout (loss of consciousness due to low oxygen to the brain) during his last routine training. When the news broke out of Moriarity’s death, his friends and fans all over the globe were left grief-stricken. His memorial service was held at Pleasure Point where hundreds of people attended. During the memorial, Moriarity’s peers bid him farewell with the surfer paddle-out tradition, while Kim scattered his ashes to the sea. You can watch the original footage of the memorial in the video below. Live Like Jay Despite the tragic loss, the legacy of Jay Moriarity lives on and still inspires a lot of people. In Santa Cruz, ‘Live Like Jay’ was a reminder to be true to yourself, do what makes you happy, and look for the good in everyone. Even after his death, Moriarity’s impact on the surfing world continues to live on. A paddleboard race known as ‘The Jay Race’ is held every year in Monterey Bay to commemorate his passing. Kim also founded the non-profit organization ‘Jay Moriarity Foundation’ to honor her late husband’s love for the ocean and the community. Conclusion Jay Moriarity is much more than his infectious smile and friendly attitude. He’s a waterman who’s passionate, kind, and an inspiration to many surfers. He’s well-loved by his community, and when he died, everyone came together — friends and even rivals — to honor his legacy. We hope that this article has inspired you to live as how Jay Moriarity lived and to chase your dreams no matter how big or small they are. If you want to learn more about other surfing legends, you can … Read more

Surfers Who Died While Surfing | 5 Deaths That Shook Surfing World

December 31, 2021by Luke Morris

When the World Surf League announces the entries for the wipeout of the year awards each year, thousands of people exclaim, “How on earth didn’t they die?!?” While there have been a few high-profile surfer deaths in recent decades, surfing, especially in huge waves, is not nearly as dangerous as it appears. On Oahu’s North Shore, Pipeline is well-known as the world’s most deadly surf break, having claimed the lives of more than ten surfers since the 1960s and resulting in numerous significant injuries and near-misses. Thankfully, with all of the improved water safety, we are seeing a low body count, with inflatable life vests preventing surfers from being held underwater long enough to drown and on-land spotters working alongside jet-ski safety teams ensuring surfers are quickly whipped out of harm’s way after a wipeout. Surfers Who Died During Surfing We don’t intend this to be a memorial to their deaths but rather a celebration of their unwavering devotion. Every swell bears the imprint of their presence. All of our thoughts and prayers are with those who have been deeply affected by these surfers’ deaths. Mark Foo (February 5, 1958 – December 23, 1994) Mark Foo, a big wave surfer from California, on December 23, 1994 died while surfing at Mavericks. He was 36 years old at the time. Foo was born in Singapore to Chinese-American parents who worked for the US Information Agency as photojournalists. He didn’t learn to swim, let alone surf, until he was ten years old when his family relocated to Honolulu from Washington, DC. Foo’s larger-than-life personality was reflected in his surfing style — he was one of the first to slice up and down monster waves as though they were head-high — and it also made him a captivating photo subject. He relied on surf videos and periodicals to keep connected to the sport while living on the mainland, so he understands the reach and power of such material. He made friends with surf photographers and was featured on the covers of Surfer and Surfing, the two most popular publications in the expanding surf business, more than the world champions who beat him in competitions. Because of his widespread visibility, he secured commercial contracts that paid him to be a billboard surfer. Though he never made a lot of money surfing, he was practically paid to surf for free, a dream come true for any wave surfer. Foo paddled out into the Maverick’s lineup in 1994 with big wave surfers Ken Bradshaw and Brock Little. Photographers packed the beach, and the presence of North Shore icons bolstered Mavericks’ credibility. Foo has never been to this break before. Bradshaw and Foo had been on Oahu the day before, but on December 22, they hopped a red-eye to San Francisco after hearing about a once-in-a-lifetime swell. The next day, though, the surf had changed from glassy 50-footers to mushy 25-footers. Foo had surfed bigger, gnarlier waves previously, but he dipped in on an otherwise average wave, went over the falls, and disappeared. His lifeless body sank to the water’s surface. Foo re-imagined what it meant to be a professional surfer. He demonstrated that large wave surfers are athletes and artists and a realistic career option. Sion Milosky (August 10, 1976 – March 16, 2011) Sion Milosky was an undisputed hero among the working class. He was a welder who developed his business on Oahu and lived for two things beyond all else: his family and his work. Big surf was the second. He traveled around legendary North Shore lineups, including Pipeline, Himalayas, and Waimea Bay, near the end of his life. Nonetheless, his wife and two children were always his top focus. He was once asked what he would do if he only had six months to live in an interview. He said without hesitation, “Spend time with the family.” His devotion to his family, on the other hand, had no bearing on his surfing. The Kauai native was born into a family of surfers naturally adept in big waves. Milosky was an underground inventor in both the tow and paddle-in movements. He was a former professional longboarder who essentially started surfing large waves because he could stay close to home. And the surfing world began to notice him: in 2011, he was voted Surfing magazine’s Underground Charger of the Year, and he won $25,000. He reportedly spent the money on that fateful trip to Half Moon Bay. When asked what superpower he would choose in that same interview, he replied, “Eternal life.” Sion Milosky, then 35, of Kalaheo, Kauai, died while surfing Maverick’s in Northern California, causing tragedy in the surfing world. According to the Santa Cruz Sentinel, Sion had caught a number of waves before taking a two-wave hold-down and drowning. According to the article, Nathan Fletcher discovered Sion’s body floating about a mile from the lineup. Donnie Solomon (? – December 23, 1995) Donnie Solomon, who grew up surfing in Ventura, California, was an obvious talent to watch. Solomon was sitting in the lineup with Ross Clark-Jones during an extraordinary session at Waimea Bay when they paddled for a set’s opening wave. Clark-Jones caught and rode the wave, but Solomon got himself into a bad situation and ended up inside. The waves were just getting more prominent as they approached. When Solomon tried to paddle outside, he didn’t make it—he was two-thirds up the face when the wave decided to break, throwing him over the lip. He couldn’t be revived once he reappeared. Solomon, a Red Cross supporter, would stop by local chapters while tracking waves and racing on the WQS, inspiring other surfers to do the same. He believed that lifeguarding and safety training in first aid and CPR were essential for all water sports like surfing, particularly the youth. Todd Chesser (February 16, 1968 – February 13, 1997) Todd Chesser was born on February 16, 1968, in the state of Florida. After his father was killed in a car accident … Read more

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