Frosty Hesson: The Real-Life Hero Of Mavericks
Legends are born when people accomplish extraordinary feats or perform remarkable acts of bravery, and surfing legends are no different. Frosty Hesson is one such legend whose name resonates with surfers around the globe. But who is Frosty Hesson, and what earned him the title “Hero of Mavericks?” Known as the real-life hero of Mavericks, Frosty Hesson’s life is an inspiring tale of triumph, mentorship, and overcoming personal tragedy. From his early days as a surfer to his remarkable influence on the surfing world, Hesson’s journey is one of resilience and unwavering dedication. To really do Frosty’s story justice, we must dive deep into his life and the things that made him who he is today. Who Is Frosty Hesson? Richard “Frosty” Hesson was born in San Francisco on September 6, 1949. He was (and still is) well-known in the surfing community and can still be found riding the waves at Pleasure Point, California, almost every day. However, his fame skyrocketed in late 2012 with the release of the movie “Chasing Mavericks,” in which the famous actor Gerard Butler portrays Hesson. Today, Hesson is a surfing coach and mentor to many. He published his memoir, “Making Mavericks,” to coincide with the movie’s release in 2012. Though the book is a tale of his life and experiences, Frosty wrote it mainly as a mentorship guide, sharing all the pearls of wisdom that he picked up along the way. Frosty Hesson’s Life and Career: Early Years to Mavericks Frosty Hesson had quite a turbulent childhood. His mother had chronic health problems that often saw her end up in hospital. His father coped with this stress by drinking and soon became an alcoholic. Despite these setbacks, Frosty has pleasant memories of his childhood in the 1950s and 60s. His parents frequently took him to the beaches at Santa Cruz, where he developed a tight connection with the ocean. That’s also where he saw surfers for the first time. Young Frosty immediately identified with them and realized that it was something that he wanted to do. His love for water drove him to join his school’s swimming team, which also awakened dreams of becoming a coach. However, tragedy struck when his father suffered a stroke. Suddenly, his family hit hard times. They had to sell their home and go live in an apartment. However, Frosty was offered a full college scholarship and enrolled in Chabot Community College, where he joined the water polo team. Unfortunately, the hard times got worse. His mom’s health deteriorated even more, and she eventually took her own life. Frosty’s father could not cope with life without her and died just six months later. This led to Frosty quitting school, marrying his first wife, and moving to Lake Tahoe. The couple had a son together, but the marriage did not last long, and Frosty returned to Santa Cruz, where he started working in construction. However, Frosty’s passion was still surfing, which he kept doing as often as possible in his spare time. This was also when he realized his lifelong dream of coaching. At one point, Frosty coached the Soquel High School’s surf team as well as the Santa Cruz Surf League, making a name for himself as a professional surfer, which was also how he discovered the thrill of surfing Mavericks. Mavericks is a surfing spot in northern California that’s known for its dangerous waters and massive waves (also called “Mavericks”). After storms, these waves can reach up to 60 feet, while some have even been recorded as up to 100 feet tall. When the waves break, the tremors are so severe that they can often be detected on seismometers. Frosty became enthralled with the Mavericks and joined a small group of elite surfers who routinely took on the Mavericks. This was a risky challenge since Mavericks isn’t a beautiful beach. It’s full of boulders and sharks and can also get very misty. It strikes fear into many surfers, but Frosty Hesson became one of the most frequent surfers to brave the massive waves there. This added to his reputation as a surfing master, causing even more young surfers to approach him for coaching and mentoring. Frosty Hesson’s Impact On The Surfing World Surfing the Mavericks showed something in Frosty that he would also grow to recognize, respect, and cultivate in others: resolve. Facing those massive waves in such harsh, life-threatening conditions would be enough to make anyone turn back. But Frosty rode the waves, then went back for more. This resolve and his dream of coaching drove him to coach and mentor hundreds of young people throughout his life. One of these students was a 12-year-old boy called Jay Moriarty. Jay had started off being coached by one of Frosty’s students but soon realized he wanted more and eventually approached Frosty directly. Hesson says he recognized the same seriousness and resolve in Jay that he saw in himself, so he agreed and started coaching him. However, when Jay saw Frosty Surfing the Mavericks, he asked the coach to teach him how to do the same. By this time, Frosty had been surfing the Mavericks for over seven years. Frosty is not the kind of person who just teaches. He’s a mentor, so he trained Jay for more than four years to become one of the most respected surfers ever. Jay even had to write 55 essays and discuss them with him at length before Frosty allowed him to surf the Mavericks. Jay is just one of the people who became championship surfers under the guidance of Frosty Hesson. Unfortunately, tragedy struck yet again when Jay drowned in 2001 while free diving in the Maldives. Jay Moriarty’s death sent shockwaves through the surfing community. People from all over the world mourned the tragic loss of such an incredible human being who found so much joy in life. Hundreds of surfers, including Hesson, held a memorial service for Jay in the water on June 26, 2001, to scatter his … Read more