Frosty Hesson: The Real-Life Hero Of Mavericks

frosty hesson the real hero of mavericks

Legends are born when people accomplish extraordinary feats or perform remarkable acts of bravery, and surfing legends are no different. Frosty Hesson is one such legend whose name resonates with surfers around the globe. But who is Frosty Hesson, and what earned him the title “Hero of Mavericks?” Known as the real-life hero of Mavericks, Frosty Hesson’s life is an inspiring tale of triumph, mentorship, and overcoming personal tragedy. From his early days as a surfer to his remarkable influence on the surfing world, Hesson’s journey is one of resilience and unwavering dedication. To really do Frosty’s story justice, we must dive deep into his life and the things that made him who he is today. Who Is Frosty Hesson? Richard “Frosty” Hesson was born in San Francisco on September 6, 1949. He was (and still is) well-known in the surfing community and can still be found riding the waves at Pleasure Point, California, almost every day. However, his fame skyrocketed in late 2012 with the release of the movie “Chasing Mavericks,” in which the famous actor Gerard Butler portrays Hesson. Today, Hesson is a surfing coach and mentor to many. He published his memoir, “Making Mavericks,” to coincide with the movie’s release in 2012. Though the book is a tale of his life and experiences, Frosty wrote it mainly as a mentorship guide, sharing all the pearls of wisdom that he picked up along the way. Frosty Hesson’s Life and Career: Early Years to Mavericks Frosty Hesson had quite a turbulent childhood. His mother had chronic health problems that often saw her end up in hospital. His father coped with this stress by drinking and soon became an alcoholic. Despite these setbacks, Frosty has pleasant memories of his childhood in the 1950s and 60s. His parents frequently took him to the beaches at Santa Cruz, where he developed a tight connection with the ocean. That’s also where he saw surfers for the first time. Young Frosty immediately identified with them and realized that it was something that he wanted to do. His love for water drove him to join his school’s swimming team, which also awakened dreams of becoming a coach. However, tragedy struck when his father suffered a stroke. Suddenly, his family hit hard times. They had to sell their home and go live in an apartment. However, Frosty was offered a full college scholarship and enrolled in Chabot Community College, where he joined the water polo team. Unfortunately, the hard times got worse. His mom’s health deteriorated even more, and she eventually took her own life. Frosty’s father could not cope with life without her and died just six months later. This led to Frosty quitting school, marrying his first wife, and moving to Lake Tahoe. The couple had a son together, but the marriage did not last long, and Frosty returned to Santa Cruz, where he started working in construction. However, Frosty’s passion was still surfing, which he kept doing as often as possible in his spare time. This was also when he realized his lifelong dream of coaching. At one point, Frosty coached the Soquel High School’s surf team as well as the Santa Cruz Surf League, making a name for himself as a professional surfer, which was also how he discovered the thrill of surfing Mavericks. Mavericks is a surfing spot in northern California that’s known for its dangerous waters and massive waves (also called “Mavericks”). After storms, these waves can reach up to 60 feet, while some have even been recorded as up to 100 feet tall. When the waves break, the tremors are so severe that they can often be detected on seismometers. Frosty became enthralled with the Mavericks and joined a small group of elite surfers who routinely took on the Mavericks. This was a risky challenge since Mavericks isn’t a beautiful beach. It’s full of boulders and sharks and can also get very misty. It strikes fear into many surfers, but Frosty Hesson became one of the most frequent surfers to brave the massive waves there. This added to his reputation as a surfing master, causing even more young surfers to approach him for coaching and mentoring. Frosty Hesson’s Impact On The Surfing World Surfing the Mavericks showed something in Frosty that he would also grow to recognize, respect, and cultivate in others: resolve. Facing those massive waves in such harsh, life-threatening conditions would be enough to make anyone turn back. But Frosty rode the waves, then went back for more. This resolve and his dream of coaching drove him to coach and mentor hundreds of young people throughout his life. One of these students was a 12-year-old boy called Jay Moriarty. Jay had started off being coached by one of Frosty’s students but soon realized he wanted more and eventually approached Frosty directly. Hesson says he recognized the same seriousness and resolve in Jay that he saw in himself, so he agreed and started coaching him. However, when Jay saw Frosty Surfing the Mavericks, he asked the coach to teach him how to do the same. By this time, Frosty had been surfing the Mavericks for over seven years. Frosty is not the kind of person who just teaches. He’s a mentor, so he trained Jay for more than four years to become one of the most respected surfers ever. Jay even had to write 55 essays and discuss them with him at length before Frosty allowed him to surf the Mavericks. Jay is just one of the people who became championship surfers under the guidance of Frosty Hesson. Unfortunately, tragedy struck yet again when Jay drowned in 2001 while free diving in the Maldives. Jay Moriarty’s death sent shockwaves through the surfing community. People from all over the world mourned the tragic loss of such an incredible human being who found so much joy in life. Hundreds of surfers, including Hesson, held a memorial service for Jay in the water on June 26, 2001, to scatter his … Read more

Kanoa Igarashi: The Rising Surfing Star

Kanoa Igarashi

Kanoa Igarashi: A familiar household name in Japan and a name undoubtedly worthy of its growing popularity in the world of surfing, particularly in the western surfing hot spots such as Brazil, Australia, and the USA. This rising surfing star from Japan is destined to reach the top and give it his all to bring home the gold. Kanoa Igarashi is an American surfer from Japanese descent who’s been on the world-surfing scene since 2012. In 2016, at age 18, he entered as the youngest beginner to the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour. He is a silver medalist from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics and a 2024 Paris Olympic qualifier. Let’s dive into the life of this rising star. We will explore why Kanoa Igarashi chooses to surf for Japan. We will look at his early life, family, net worth, ranking, multilingual abilities, sponsors, participation in the Olympics and WSL competitions, world title aspirations, and his ever-growing inspirational Instagram account. Kanoa Igarashi: Birthplace And Early Years Kanoa Igarashi was born to parents Tsutomu and Misa on October 1st, 1997, in Huntington Beach, California- dubbed “Surf City.” Kanoa was always destined to surf as Tsutomu, his father, grew up in Japan and was an ardent surfer in the 1960s. Kanoa’s parents quit their jobs and moved from Tokyo to California just before his birth, hoping to raise him to be a competitive surfer. Kanoa was literally born riding a surfboard! At age 3, his father had him hitting the beach and riding the waves as early as 5:45 am each morning so he could still be on time for a day at school. By age 7, Kanoa had already signed his first endorsement deal with a local surf shop and won his first surfing trophy. The Igarashi parents were committed to grooming Kanoa into being one of the youngest and most promising surfers. The sacrifices made by his parents allowed Kanoa to live out his surfing dream and enabled him to qualify for the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour in 2015. Kanoa Igarashi made headlines in 2016 when he competed in the WSL for the first time and because he was the first representative surfer for Japan. He may have been the youngest surfer on tour, but he was by no means unskilled. He was about to prove his skills to be on point by surfing those waves with precision. Kanoa At The Olympics And WSL Competitions Kanoa represented Japan in Tokyo’s first-ever Summer Olympic Games in 2020. However, the games were postponed to July 2021 due to the 2019 coronavirus pandemic. Ironically, the chosen beach for the competition was the same beach that Keanu’s father surfed at back in his surfing days. Tsutomu Igarashi and his friends discovered this beach back in the ’60s. The boys climbed through fences and hiked through tall grass to find this wave. It became their little private “secret” beach, and they discovered the perfect wave they nicknamed the “Dojo.” Most of the Japanese competitors learned to surf at this beach. Little did Tsutomu know that his son would compete at this secret little beach spot at the Olympics one day. It must have been an incredibly proud and emotional moment for Kanoa’s father indeed, as the same wave his son was competing at the Olympics for the first time was the same wave that he had discovered. What a unique story, for sure! After being defeated by Brazil’s Italo Ferreira in the men’s final, Kanoa walked away with a silver medal. 2019 is marked as Kanoa’s best year yet, as he was ranked number 6 in the WSL CT World Tour and took the win. Some of Kanoa’s other significant WSL surfing achievements are:   Tournament Name Year 2016 Year 2017 Year 2018 Year 2019 Hurley Pro at Trestles 13th 5th – – Fiji Pro 13th 25th – – Billabong Pipeline Masters 2nd 3rd 13th 17th MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 13th 3rd 5th 3rd Quicksilver Pro France 13th 25th 25th 17th Freshwater Pro – – 3rd 9th Billabong Pro Tahiti Teahupoo 13th 13th 9th 17th Corona Open J-Bay 13th 25th 3rd 5th Oi Rio Pro 13th 9th 9th 5th Margaret River Pro 13th 13th 25th 9th Corona Bali Protected – – 25th 1st Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach 13th 25th 25th 9th Quicksilver Pro Gold Coast 9th 25th 9th 9th FINAL RANKING 20th 17th 10th 6th   Kanoa also boasts 2 US Open of Surfing champion wins in 2017 and 2018, and he is an inductee of the Surfers’ Hall of Fame, an imprint collection of legendary surfers in California Huntington Beach. Is Kanoa A World Title Holder? Even with a silver Olympic medal on the shelf and securing a quota spot to participate in the 2024 Olympic games to be held in Paris, Kanoa Igarashi has yet to become a world title holder. He secured his spot by participating in the 2022 ISA World Surfing Games and achieved one of his personal goals when he secured top 5 world status at this competition. He was grateful to have been afforded the opportunity of competing in his first world title event and to have been given a chance to fight for the world champion title holder. At the 2022 Rip Curl WSL Finals held at Lower Trestles, California, last September, Kanoa remained motivated and fixed on achieving his ultimate dream. However, Brazilian surfer Filipe Toledo walked away with his first world title at this event. We are pretty confident that Kanoa won’t give up any time soon. For now, we believe that Kanoa will focus on the qualification spot that Japan won for the men’s event for the 2024 Olympics. Considering that Kanoa won his first gold medal at the 2022 ISA World Surfing Games, we do not doubt that he will bring home a gold medal from the 2024 Olympics. He is currently taking all the steps needed to work towards his ultimate goal, a world title. We suggest you … Read more

Tom Curren: The Legendary Surfer

Tom Curren

Surfing phenomenon – with an enigmatic personality, three world titles, and an almost poetic, original wave-riding style – Tom Curren is arguably the best and most influential surfer of all time. With a name almost synonymous with surfing, Tom Curren dominated professional surfing in the 1980s.   Tom Curren is a legendary surfer and three times World Champion (1985, 1986, and 1990). His artistic, graceful, and revolutionary surfing style redefined competitive surfing in the late 1980s and early 1990s. He is among the wealthiest surfers, with a net worth of around $5 Million.   Despite Curren’s humble, quiet, and reclusive personality, he was a fierce competitor with an unmatched talent in the water. Here’s more about the surfing legend who changed the art of competitive surfing in the 1980s.   Is Tom Curren Still Surfing? Tom Curren odically retired from the competitive surfing scene in the mid-1990s. However, he is still very present in the world of surfing.   Curren occasionally participates in ASP World Qualifying Series (WQS) contests, and the Word Championship Tour (WCT) often invited him to surf as a Dreamtour wildcard in their contests.   He has also competed in the Annual Switchfoot Bro-Am Surf Contest a couple of times, surfing on the Switchfoot team. The Bro-Am is dedicated to giving back to the San Diego community and local children’s charities by raising awareness and funds.   Tom Curren enjoys tinkering with unconventional surfboard designs, skimboards, and bodyboards, often in pumping surf. And even though he loves surfing in his local Santa Barbara waters, he still loves traveling the world to chase down those perfect waves.   Curren occasionally trades his board for his guitar. His singing and composition reflect his unique personality, marrying blues, folk, and rock. Tom Curren has released several albums and has toured extensively.   How Old Is Tom Curren? Tom Curren is 58 years old today. He was born in beautiful Santa Barbara, California, on 3 July 1964.   How Many World Titles Did Tom Curren Win? Tom Curren has three world titles – 1985, 1986, and 1990.   He was the first American surfer to win the men’s world title. Before Kelly Slater dominated the competitive arena, Curren held the record for achieving the most event victories, with 33 wins from 1982 to 1992.   Curren is also a three-time Op Pro Champion, winning in 1983, 1984, and 1988. Tom Curren’s Surfing Style And Achievements Tom Curren redefined the competitive surfing era in the 1980s with his unique, effortless wave-riding style that other surfers can only dream of emulating. He always will be one of the most stylish surfers in history.   Curren is an artist, then a world-champion surfer. Opposite to surfers like Occy, who surf with aggression and sharp lines, Curren surfs with a smooth style and clean, precise sinuous lines interspersed with raw power. His original surfing style was influenced by Wayne Bartholomew (1978 world champion) and endless hours spent mastering the waves. Tom Curren maneuvers each wave with deceptive power. He sets his front foot at a 90-degree angle while standing up, tucks his back knee in, and seldom moves his feet while riding a wave. His lines are precise and perfectly blended into the next with each turn. Curren invented the iconic Double-Pump Bottom Turn, which has become the goal for every surfer since. The turn is accomplished by adding a booster second turn at the trough of the wave while climbing toward the board’s lip. The maneuver results in greater torque and rotation during the off-the-top maneuver. Curren’s brilliant surfing technique and languorous bottom turns became the pattern for nearly every young surfer during the 1980s and early 1890s. He “paved the waves” for legendary Kelly Slater and JJF; both surfers mimic Tom’s style, from soulful bottom turns to perfectly positioned arms and effortless transitions. Tom Curren successful surfing career earned him three world titles and 33 event victories. Tom Curren Achievements – The 80’s Tom Curren started impressing the judges at only 14 years old, where he began an astonishing four-year streak in the amateur division, winning the US Surfing Championships in 1978 and 1979. He also won the national and World Championship junior titles in 1980 and followed up with one World Championship victory in the men’s division.   In 1981 he participated in the Katin Pro-Am, finishing runner-up to former world pro champion Shaun Tomson, but won the following year.   Tom Curren turned pro before his 18th birthday and signed his first sponsorship contracts with Rip Curl and Ocean Pacific. He won the Trestles-hosted Stubbies Pro and the Marui Word Surfing Pro in Japan in 1982 and entering only four of twelve world tour events, Curren finished the year rated #19.   Over the next two years, Tom Curren’s rating went from eighth to fourth, helped by his consecutive wins in the Op Pro Championship at Huntington Beach. By mid-decade, the humble and reclusive teenager was an international surfing phenomenon.   In his first golden year in 1985, Tom Curren conquered five stages: Foster’s Surf Master Pro, Marui World Surfing Pro, BHP Steel International, Philishave Tracer, and Stubbie’s Surf Classic.   He was the first American male surfer to win the world tour since the circuit was founded in 1976. Curren took the championship, defeating Australian rival Mark semi-finals of the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach, which is still regarded as one of the greatest matches in world tour history.   Tom Curren joined Martin Potter and Tom Carroll in 1985 to help introduce world politics to surfing by boycotting the world circuit events in South Africa to protest against apartheid.   In 1986, Curren went for his send golden year, conquering Marui Japan Open, Gotcha Pro, Lacanau Pro, Foster’s Surf Master Pro, and Stubbie’s US Pro.   It seemed as if Curren lost interest in competing between 1987 and 1988, dropping from 5th to 15th in the ratings. He quit the tour in 1989 to spend time with … Read more

John John Florence, a Surfing Superstar Pushing the Limits

John John Florence

John John Florence is one of the best, most influential surfers of our time. When it comes to progression and pushing the limits in waves of all types and sizes, John is unrivaled. Big waves, small waves, onshore waves, hollow waves, Pipe waves, John is the best in all of them—the ultimate all-rounder. John has performed some of the best surfing ever seen by anyone in waves of consequence, matching it with above-the-lip antics and the smoothest face carves on big open faces you’ll ever see.  Few match John as an all-rounder, and fewer still with the diverse accolades to back it. Many professionals have preferences in wave type, size, and shape and have become known for being the best in specific conditions. For instance, Filipe Toledo in small waves or Jack Robinson in big hollow waves. John doesn’t fit that mold and is exceptional in all types of surfing.  In this article, we dive into the life of the 2x world champion. We’ll discover where he grew up, how he got so damn good at surfing, and the accolades he has collected throughout his career. We will also check out his personal life, how his family life shaped his surfing, and what John is up to outside of surfing. The man has done a lot and is still only 31 at the time of writing this article, which means we have a lot to get through in the life of John; let’s get down to it.  The Early Years of John John Florence John John, or John Florence as he is called now, was born in Honolulu on October 18, 1992. At 6ft 1 and 84kg, he’s grown into a tall, built-out figure, a body shape and figure that translates favorably to today’s speed, power, and flow judging criteria. Florence is well-versed in waves of consequence, which is unsurprising considering where he grew up.  John grew up on one of the most notorious stretches of the coast in surfing. The North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The North Shore. A young John was raised with his two younger brothers in a small beachfront property facing directly into the most notorious waves on earth–Pipeline. The heaviest, scariest, and most insanely beautiful wave on earth, but one that has claimed more lives than any other and a break by which all other waves are measured—Johns’s front yard.  John was riding waves with his mum as early as six months old and was out surfing by himself by age 5. Yep, five! His mother, Alex, a keen and stylish longboarder herself, introduced John to surfing at an extremely young age, taking him surfing and watching over him as he progressed onto bigger and heavier waves along the stretch known as the seven-mile miracle.  John would quickly make a name for himself, becoming that tiny blonde kid, pulling into huge barrels at the North Shore’s most notorious breaks. By age eight, he was surfing Pipeline regularly, standing in huge blue barrels, his long blonde hair falling down his back, getting spit out of waves where multiple young Johns could fit.  Magazine photos and clips of young John surfing these waves began to emerge, and he quickly became a stand-out name in surfing circles. He spent years competing in NSSA events across the US. Although he faired poorly compared to other up-and-comers, like Kolohe Andino, he would become the youngest surfer ever to compete in the prestigious Triple Crown of Surfing.  The Triple Crown is held at Haleiwa, Sunset, and Pipeline, three events held at the most notable waves on the North Shore–proving a surfer’s ultimate ability on the North Shore (the most important area to master as a professional surfer). John, although eliminated early, competed in these contests aged just 13.  The Rise to Fame of John John Florence John soon became a stand-out at waves across the North Shore, and Kelly Slater is quoted saying, “John will go on to develop a deeper knowledge than any one of the North Shore waves,” He was right. Fast forward to today, and John is one of the best to ever surf Pipeline–winning multiple awards and surfing some of the craziest tubes ridden out there.  He would go on to qualify for the World Championship Tour, and although his results weren’t bad by most surfer’s standards, he would struggle on tour initially. On his first seasons on tour, he finished; 34th, 4th, 10th, and 14th before winning his first world title in 2016. He went back to back, winning the title again in 2017, becoming the first Hawaiian to win back-to-back titles since Andy Irons.  John is also the youngest surfer to win the Triple Crown and has won the notorious Volcom Pipe Pro an incredible four times. In 2011, John won the event in dramatic fashion, in what many call the best final ever. The final was against John’s neighbor and friend–another Pipe specialist called Jamie Obrien (one of the few Pipe surfers that rival John at Pipe). The final was all but done, with Jamie boasting a 19-point heat total and John still needing a huge score. The friends shook hands, and John congratulated his friend with a few seconds to go.  Jamie collapsed in celebration off his board, and as he did so, a wave popped up down the reef. John sprint paddles across to it, and Jamie chases him with ten seconds to go! John paddles far across as if to go left at Pipeline, but changes his mind last second, fades right, and gets ridiculously barreled to earn himself 10 points and the Pipe Pro title.  In John’s first world title year, he enlisted the help and knowledge of coach and fellow Hawaiian Ross Williams. The pair would develop a training program, work on boards and go into attack mode in heat strategy and mindset. Just before the start of the 2016 season, John won the iconic Eddie Aikua event at 30ft Waimea Bay, beating some of the best big … Read more

Surfing Pick Up Lines and How to Pick Up a Surfer

surfing pick up lines

Although surfers may possess appealing tanned bodies and well-defined muscles, it’s crucial to acknowledge that they are more than just their physical appearance. Surfers are eccentric, have a special lifestyle and even a unique language, and you should know what you are getting into before dating a surfer.  Surfers are unique people, and it is essential to know your surfer slang if you want to pick up a surfer. Using everyday pickup lines will not work on surfers, and it is essential to love adventure, nature, the ocean, and live at the coast if you want to meet a surfer.  If you think a surfboard is something you use to showcase food for guests, then you should not consider dating a surfer. Surfers are great people with unique personalities, but there are general factors where all surfers are the same. Knowing these general factors would help if you caught a surfer’s eye and wanted to date. Surfing Pick Up Lines: Cheesy, Creative, And Funny Catching a surfer is like catching a wave; you have a long way to pedal before enjoying the rush. Having a good pickup line tied to the roof of your beetle before you set out to lure a surfer is a good idea. Here are a few pickup lines to consider. What are you doing tonight? I am in serious need of some waxing. I heard you love a paddle battle; how about I pick you up at six, and you and I fight for the curl? My friends and I would like to know if you and your friends would like to join us for a party wave. Hey, my name is Tsunami. Do you and your surfboard want to catch a wave sometime? Hey! I need someone with hands-on experience to teach me the turtle roll. I do not know much about the ocean, but how about you and I SURF the web tonight? You are just what a need to surf up on Cloud nr 9. You look like you possess good surfing skills. If you’re interested, I have free time to practice Urge Surfing. I do not mind being carried around or strapped to a roof rack, and you look like you need a new board to take home. How To Pick Up A Surfer: Tips And Tricks Surfers are early birds, and their layback outlook on life is something to consider if you want to date one. Surfers are carefree people, and surfing is about love for the ocean, the rush of the next big wave, and the carefree feeling that goes with it. Surfers seldom choose partners that do not surf; if they do not, they must love the ocean and respect the surfer’s way. Surfers are fit; showing their bodies is second nature, meaning being shy about your body will not leave a good impression. There is a certain wildness and simplistic way about surfers, and a beautifully made-up face will look good at dinner but leave you smudged in the water. Surfers like natural beauty, and showing your natural self will make you more noticeable. If you’re interested in dating a surfer, showing a genuine interest in their sport by asking questions or even taking a lesson can increase your chances of success. Surfers are passionate about their hobby and appreciate good listeners. If you want to pick up a surfer, you must be a confident swimmer; if not, going for swim lessons first is a good idea. What Do Surfers Look For In A Partner? Everyone has their expectations when it comes to finding that special someone, but there is a general guideline that surfers look for in a partner. Sometimes opposites attract, but the other side of the coin is that being very different sometimes makes for good chemistry. Surfers have a very specific lifestyle, and here are some broad guidelines to help you identify if you are suited to date a surfer. Surfers Are Carefree Surfers have little to no desire to play dress up, and they enjoy a partner that shares the same view or understands that it is not who they are and respect it. Surfers Are Competitive Surfing is very competitive, and surfers sit around doing nothing, as many believe. Surfers constantly practice and do everything to improve their skills, and their partners must be supportive and active in their goals. Surfers Are Adventuress If you fear water or taking risks, you are most likely not suited to be a surfer’s partner. Surfers are adrenalin seekers and are constantly out to find that legendary wave to ride. Surfers live on the edge and do other crazy stunts to satisfy the rush. If you are not adventurous, you should avoid a relationship with a surfer. Surfers Are Early Risers The best waves are usually at sunrise when you will always find the surfer. Do not expect to wake up next to a surfer unless you are up before sunrise. You may feel unimportant waking up alone every morning, but rest assured it is not you but the waves calling. Top Dos And Don’ts Of Picking Up A Surfer Surfers are a rear breed, and trying to understand them if you aren’t one will drive you insane. Being in a relationship with a surfer can be frustrating, and even being one’s, friend may sometimes drive you up the wall. If you are friends or dating a surfer, consider a few dos and don’ts to help you get along better. For a surfer, surfing is not just a sport or entertainment. If you don’t share the same passion, it’s best to enjoy the ride rather than analyze it. Do not buy a tux for a surfer and hope to tame the carefree beast in a formal setting. Surfers have a unique language, and trying to decipher it is pointless. Introducing a surfer to your parents may leave you wishing they could see him surf rather than having brunch and talking about everyday life. Surfers … Read more

Do Surfers Make Better Lovers

Do Surfers Make Better Lovers

Tanned skin, sun-bleached hair, and bodies to die for – it’s no wonder surfers make better lovers! They are fun, carefree, and always up for a new adventure. However, their first love is, and always will be, the ocean. So, what’s it really like dating a surfer? Dating a surfer is fun and exciting. You can expect long days at the beach, going on the best holidays and trips, and a low-maintenance partner that’s passionate, brave, patient, laid-back, and independent. But you must be prepared for unpredictable schedules and the dangers of surfing. Although impossible not to be attracted to these laid-back risky hunks, there’s a lot more to dating them. Continue reading for an inside scoop on the perks, downsides, and honest truth of what it’s like to date a surfer. Why Do People Believe That Surfers Make Better Lovers? Set your eyes toward the ocean and consider falling in love with someone who rides the waves. Although each person offers unique traits, surfers all share the same passion and have a few things in common. Here’s why people believe surfers make the best lovers. 1. Physical Fitness Chasing mavericks sure has its perks for a surfer’s physique. They are notoriously fit, healthy, and undeniably hot. The likelihood of being disappointed when you see your surfing partner in the buff for the first time is, err, zero! From strong, toned abs, legs, and glutes, virtually every part of a surfer’s body gets a solid workout when surfing. 2. Connection To Nature Surfing is so much more than a mere sport or recreational pastime. It works as physical and mental therapy, allowing surfers to feel grounded and connected to nature. They understand weather patterns, the ocean’s movements, and the behavior of sea life – it’s damn hot if you ask me. Dating a surfer is sure to get you off that couch too. They enjoy all sorts of outdoor activities (besides surfing). The two of you can enjoy long beach walks, volleyball, swimming, or snorkeling, leaving you both recharged and beaming. 3. Carefree Attitude Surfers are some of the most laid-back and carefree people. I mean, I get it: the wind in your hair, the sun kissing your skin, and the immediate sense of freedom and adventure when you hit a wave – it’s like meditation for the soul. Their wide grins and mellow vibes are scientifically proven, stating that their “surf-stoked” happiness comes from a chemical cocktail triggered by negatively charged ions around turbulent water. Scientists are convinced that the abundance of negative ions positively affects a person’s mood by increasing blood flow and oxygen circulation and triggering the release of endorphins and serotonin, “happy hormones.” 4. Failure Isn’t An Issue Surfers know they will fail and understand the sport is all about trial and error. There are waves that they simply won’t catch, and a solid wipeout is bound to happen again, even for professionals. But surfers are resilient and get right back up. Surfers learn from their mistakes and use them to improve. This is a great quality for any relationship. It teaches them patience and persistence, even when it seems impossible. What Is It Like Dating A Surfer? Dating a surfer is like hitting the jackpot for some but sharing your partner with the ocean for the most part of your relationship may feel like a dealbreaker for others. Here’s what it’s REALLY like dating someone passionate about surfing. The Joys Of Dating A Surfer You do not have to be a surfing enthusiast to date one, but you do need to love the ocean and the outdoors. Here are a few things to look forwards to when dating a surfer: Full days basking in the sun. My favorite part is snuggling up on a towel after a stroll on the beach and soaking in the breathtaking surrounding, and of course, my hunk owning those waves. Photos, lots of photos. Surfers love having pictures taken of them riding the waves, and they usually won’t mind snapping a few for you after getting out of the water. Surfers know all the best holiday spots, and they are keen to explore them to catch the best waves. Most of these spots are untouched swathes of paradise, boasting pristine beaches, beautiful waters, and breathtaking sunsets – the most enviable Instagram moments. Excellent relationship qualities. Surfers are brave, patient, laid-back, passionate, and independent. They also tend to be really low-maintenance, practically living in their boardie’s. What more do you want in a relationship?  Brace Yourself for Some Drawbacks or Challenges From early morning commitments to unpredictable schedules and danger factors, there are several challenges you will face when dating a surfer: Say goodbye to late-morning cuddles. Your late-morning lie-ins are something of a distant memory when dating a surfer. A surfer’s alarm runs with the tide; brace yourself for 5 am alarms when the surf is right. Brace yourself for unpredictable schedules. A surfer’s life is loosely organized, impulsive, and mostly planned around the weather and tide. Get used to canceling date night or lunch with friends if the waves are perfect. Potential danger and injuries: Reef cuts, scrapes, gashes, ear and staph infections, and bruises are part of the sport. I hope you can bear watching as your partner dives board-first into 10-15-20-foot roaring waves for a gnarly surf session, and all you can do is sit helplessly and watch, praying they come out ALIVE. How To Navigate A Relationship With A Surfer Dating a surfer is fun, invigorating, and exciting. You’ll have a partner that’s highly driven, easy-going, passionate, and with a deep love for nature. However, they generally revolve their life – job, living conditions, home, and holiday plans – around the sport. You will need to fully embrace the “surfer lifestyle” for your relationship to work with your surf-obsessed partner. No, this doesn’t mean you need to become a surfer. Simply be flexible with your schedule and pay special attention to when your partner says … Read more

Pro Surfer Workout Routines

Pro Surfer Workout Routines

Surfing is a fun and exhilarating sport, but it is a professional career for many surfers. Whether you enjoy surfing as a casual sport or as a pro, it requires a certain amount of fitness to avoid injury and improve your skill level. If you are a surfer or considering taking it up as a sport, you need to know how to keep and stay fit to reach your full potential.  Pro surfer’s workout routines target specific muscles to improve their surfing skills. Pro surfing requires good balance, core strength, flexibility, and stamina. Certain muscles work harder than others and require a target fitness program to ensure the best performance.  Every surfer needs to stay fit and exercise regularly to keep their body in shape to tackle the waves. There are various ways to exercise if you are a surfer, but understanding the various workout routines and what muscles it targets is the best way to improve your surfing skill and avoid injuries. Let’s look at some workout routines and how surfers stay in shape. The Importance Of Fitness In Surfing The ocean is a playground for surfers, but its powerful waves are often underestimated. The ocean’s unpredictability has caused many surfers to find themselves in trouble, and fitness is crucial to avoid injury. Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned surfer, incorporating the appropriate exercises into your routine can improve your surfing abilities, boost your self-assurance, and prepare you for unforeseen circumstances. Here are five reasons why fitness in surfing is essential and how a surfer can benefit from making it a priority: 1. Improve Performance Riding a wave takes a lot of energy, and strong, exercised muscles improve a surfer’s ability to tackle the ocean without fear. Confidence is a big part of surfing; fitness provides the surfer with endurance, improving their maneuverability and surfing performance. To improve your surfing, you need to trust that your body will not fail when you push its limits, and fitness is an essential factor in taking your surfing skill to the next level. 2. Enhance Balance And Stability Having balance is crucial when it comes to surfing. Without it, your chances of improving your surfing skills are minimal. Surfers who want to take on those big waves need to be surefooted, and that takes skill but, more importantly, a fit body. A surfer’s muscles must be strong and react quickly to sudden shifts and body movement to power through a wave. Exercised muscles provide surfers the needed strength, and a fit body provides endurance to improve balance and stability to stay on the surfboard. 3. Increase Power And Stamina All surfers respect the ocean for its strength, but mostly because it is unpredictable and has caused many injuries and worse. One of the leading causes of surfer injuries is fatigue, which leads to waves overpowering them, causing serious harm. Being fit often gives a surfer a fighting chance when they are overpowered by a wave or find themselves dragged too far out by the ocean. Paddling to the big waves often takes more power and stamina than riding a wave. A good fitness level can give you more time to practice and enhance your skills while assisting you in any trouble on the water. 4. Enhance Flexibility And Core Strength Flexibility is essential for surfing; some maneuvers push the body to twist and turn unnaturally. Core strength provides surfers with the ability to balance while their body twists, plus it prevents muscle injury when the muscle performs. Take Pilates and Yoga as examples. These fitness exercises are highly effective in strengthening your core, improving flexibility, and providing stability to your body. 5. Fast Recovery Timesg Every surfer, at some point or another, gets injured, even if they are fit and well-exercised. The advantage of being fit is that the body recovers faster, and a quick recovery makes a big difference if you are out on the ocean. Pro surfers cannot afford to be off the ocean for too long, and getting back on a wave is essential. Improving fitness prevents sore muscles giving you more time riding waves. Pro Surfer Workout Routines Pro surfers rely on their strength, balance, endurance, agility, breathing, and flexibility to take their surfing skills to the next level. To perform at 100% capacity, surfers have an advanced workout and exercise routine. Here are the areas pro surfers concentrate on when working out: Strength Surfers focus on flexibility, strength, and efficiency to increase their energy levels. Building strength is essential to save energy throughout those exhausting hours on the ocean and each exertion. Exercising the lower body is essential to get up and secure balance on the surfboard, and good upper body strength provides stronger paddling. Squats are great for building strength. How many reps and weights are up to each individual? However, pro surfers should do squats at least three times a week and increase their weight to improve their strength. Lunges increase the strength of the lower body, and surfers who prefer body-weight lunges must do 3/4 sets of 15 to 20 reps per leg. Core strength is essential for pro surfers to stay balanced, and lifts, planks, weighted sit-ups, and side planks are important exercises. Pro surfer JD Irons does 30 sit-up sets in a 40-minute routine. Upper body strength improves paddling out, and pro surfer Courtney Conlogue does sledgehammer swings, deadlifts, rope pulls, battle ropes, and pull-ups. Endurance Endurance goes hand in hand with strength, strong muscles require less energy to perform, and surfers can ride waves for longer. Cardiovascular exercise is essential to improving endurance, and pro surfer Travis Mellem paddles, swims, or cycles six days a week for 1/2 hour. Pro surfer Courtney Conlogue uses Tabata rounds to increase her heart rate, and it involves intense activity for 20 seconds and 10 seconds of rest, for four minutes in total. Balance Pro surfer Mick Fanning swears by yoga, saying that “…classics, such as the tree and the boat, are good … Read more

Do Girls Really Like Surfers?

Do Girls Really Like Surfers

Do Girls Really Like Surfers? Plus Most Attractive And Least Attractive Traits of Surfers The 80s and 90s were filled with Baywatch fantasy surfers who attracted girls with a grin. Of course, this trope neglected to remember that there are girls and women surfers. Nonetheless, the fact remains that surfers do have a special allure and can be fun to date. Surfers have attractive traits, such as loving the outdoors and being fit. But it isn’t always a fun date at the beach. Plenty of girls like and date surfers. Many girls are surfers. People who enjoy the outdoors and being active find surfers attractive. However, surf culture isn’t for everyone. In addition, boy surfers that are dating or want to date girl surfers need to ensure they’re not “surf-splining” (eek). Dating a surfer is perfect if you enjoy personal space. But some people, such as girls, have romantic visions of dating surfers that involve long walks on the beach. Sure, there can be long walks on the beach while lugging a board to the secret spot. Or the non-surfer can walk on the beach alone. But surfers tend to be in the water. So, dating a surfer is either joining them or being happy doing you. What Are The Most Attractive Traits Of Surfers According To Girls? Girls are like fishes in the sea: there is a variety, and they all have different opinions. Thus, the most attractive trait in a surfer totally depends on the girl. But we’ve gathered up a few attritive traits of surfers. Surfers Are Attractive Because They Give You Space Surfer girl Ann told us she finds surfers attractive because “They give you space.” It’s true. Surfers may be on the water bobbing together, but each is on its own board and riding its own wave (usually). Plus, surfers are racing out to the beach at o’dark-early, mumbling something about the perfect waves, and won’t be seen for hours or days. Independent girls enjoy dating a surfer because it suits their lifestyle. They can still do the things they love without worrying about boys whining for attention. Surfers Love The Outdoors Lots of girls appreciate a guy that loves mother nature. Surf culture is about respecting the sea and those living in it. Besides, the sport is held in a much more beautiful and better-smelling setting than most sports. (Sorry, gym lovers, but the fragrance of BO and Axe will never beat the scent of the sea). Surfers Make Excellent Eye Candy Girls like to look just as much as the guys, and surfers have their bodies on fine display. Regardless if it is hanging out in your trunks or dressed up like a seal in your wetsuit, surfers are looking fine. As Jeannine put it, “The body of a surfer is usually of a top athlete, male or female. So, a surfer has tight everything. Who is not attracted to that?” However, we do know some of you have dad bods. But hey, you’re exercising and doing what you love, and that earns respect, appreciation, and, if you’re lucky, a date. Surfers Take Care Of Their Mental Health Gone are the days when girls are attracted to “macho men” that deny their feelings and use anger to respond to every life challenge. Also, modern girls have learned that trying to “fix” a man’s emotional baggage is impossible. Instead, women appreciate men who can talk about their feelings and have healthy outlets and management techniques for stressors, anxiety, depression, and improving self-esteem. Many surfers can, and it isn’t all because of surfing culture but the actual participation in the sport. Scientific studies have backed this up with evidence that surfing: Provides a healthy break from everyday stress Reduces the body’s stress hormone levels Activates the body’s mood-boosting neurotransmitters Helps manage depression Can boost confidence Girls are attracted to people who take care of themselves, both physically and mentally, and many surfers fit this bill. Of course, there are exceptions. Anyone who has surfed or has hung out with surfers knows that one person whose life is always on the cusp of wiping out. But you could argue they would be even worse off if they didn’t have surfing. What Are The Least Attractive Traits Of Surfers According To Girls? “Don’t steal my wave,” one surfer girl quipped on Reddit. She summed up the least attractive traits of surfers: sexism and ego. Sexism Isn’t Attractive Surfers have a reputation for being a little sexist, especially to girls who surf. There have been studies and article after article on the issue. So, if you’re a surfer struggling to get a date, maybe reassess some of your opinions about girls. Surfers Can Be Selfish Surfers are known to put the waves first and everything else second, that includes their partners and non-surfing friends. Their love of surfing comes before all else, and that can feel selfish. If that might be you, perhaps consider compromising. Just a thought. Surfers Give You Space Surfers give you space. Not all girls find this attractive. Some want their romantic relationships to be do-everything-together, and unless she’s willing to grab a board or you’re willing to stop surfing, this isn’t going to work. It is what it is. Surfers Can Have Big Egos Surfers can develop a bit of an ego. Sure, surfing helps manage mental health and improves self-confidence, but unless it comes with a slice of humility, that can become insufferable. Also, if she’s a surfer too, she might not want to hear you surf-splining her own sport to her. Seriously, back to that sexist comment. Just stop. Also, let her have her place in the lineup without you giving her hassle. How Important Is Surfing For Girls When It Comes To Dating A Surfer? “It’s not the fact that he’s a surfer that would make him attractive,” said Mana X, “but rather, the fact that he’s good at it.” She added, “Talent is attractive.” Perusing the chat boards … Read more

10 Highest Paid Surfers | How Surfers Get Paid

Surfing is different; it always has been. It walks the line between sport and lifestyle. But for athletes at the top level, surfing is undoubtedly a sport and a well-paid one at that. Whether they’re grinding it out on the WQS or in the top 10 on The Championship Tour, there’s good money in pro surfing. But cash in surfing doesn’t filter down the ranks equally, and there is a massive gap between how much the top-level pro surfers are paid and the rest of the pack.  Who earns what money in surfing goes beyond simple prize money and contest win bonuses. It involves prize money, sponsorships, circumstance, marketability, other revenue streams, and, let’s face it, some industry who knows who. In this article, we dive into how surfers get paid. We’ll discover the highest-paid surfers, how they earn their paychecks, the differences between male and female earnings, and where surf salaries are today. We have a bit to get through, so let’s hit it.  Who are the Highest Paid Surfers?  While the Championship Tour roster includes 34 surfers, only ten may be considered well-paid; however, even the highest-paid surfer’s salaries pail compared to most sports. Here are the highest-paid surfers right now.  1. Kelly Slater Kelly Slater is the greatest surfer of all time and one of the winningest athletes in all sports. The 11x world champion continues to compete at the highest level today at 51. As you’d expect, Kelly is the highest-paid surfer ever, with an estimated net worth of around $ 25 million.  Between 2010 and 2014, the Floridian amassed $ 2.2 million in prize money alone. This doesn’t include endorsement deals with major brands like Quiksilver and GoPro. Kelly has used his multiple revenue streams wisely, investing in his sustainable surf company, Outer known, and revolutionary wave pool technology at his famous Kelly Slater Surf Ranch.  2. John Florence  Any surf fan in the past decade has heard of John Florence. John has won two world titles, going back to back in 2016 and 2017, produced one of the greatest surf movies ever, and continues to blow minds every time he surfs. If you haven’t seen View From a Blue Moon yet, I’d highly suggest checking it out.  With two world titles behind him and big-name backing from Nike, Hurley, and Monster, John is one of the highest earners in surfing. His net worth is $ 12 million, and like Kelly, John has invested wisely, starting his own company, “Florence X Marine,” and generating revenue from surf movies and YouTube.  3. Mick Fanning  The face of Australian surfing, Mick Fanning, is a 3x time world champion from the Gold Coast in Queensland. Now retired, Mick was one of the highest-performing competitors of all time, pipping Kelly to the post to win three world titles. The Queenslander still boasts some big sponsors, including Red Bull, Rip Curl, and DHD Surfboards—an iconic surfing figure worth $ 8 million.  4. Gabriel Medina  Gabriel Medina is a Brazilian superstar with a net worth of around $ 3.5 million. The 3x world champion is already regarded as one of the best competitive surfers ever, with a fearsome reputation in heats and heat surfing that wouldn’t look out of place in the latest surf flick. Medina is a megastar in Brazil, mates with Neymar, and enjoys huge endorsement deals with Rip Curl and Audi.  5. Laird Hamilton  Laird Hamilton is a pioneer of big wave tow surfing and one of the first names people associate with surfing. He changed how waves were ridden in the early 2000s and was one of the first to surf Jaws and Teahupoo. Laird has amassed massive wealth from surfing (net worth of $ 10 million) and is also an actor and sportswear model.  Other highly paid surfers  There are some other well-paid surfers I couldn’t squeeze into this list, including Julian Wilson, Kolohe Andino, Jordy Smith, and Kanoa Igarashi.  The Highest-Paid Female Surfers in the World  In many sports, women earn significantly less than their male counterparts, but in 2019, the WSL announced equal pay for male and female athletes, becoming the first US sport to do so. However, there is still a huge gap between the top five female surfers and the rest of the pack. Some of the highest-paid female surfers include:  6. Carissa Moore  Carissa Moore is the face of women’s surfing and one of the most successful female surfers ever. The Hawaiin has won the world title 5 times and has huge sponsors to match her success. Red Bull, Target, Hurley, and Mayhem surfboards are among them. Carissa’s net worth is estimated at around $ 2 million.  7. Steph Gilmore  Steph Gilmore is the greatest female surfer of all time and has won the world title 8 times, most recently in 2022 at the WSL Finals at Trestles. Gilmore is also regarded as one of the most stylish surfers ever, and her sponsors include Roxy, DHD, and Nixon—an incredible surfer with a net worth of $ 16 million.  8. Sally Fitzgibbons  Another Australian surfing icon and successful CT veteran. Fitzgibbons has competed on the WCT for over a decade, finished 2nd in the world, and competed in the Tokyo 2022 Olympics. Her net worth is $ 1 million.  9. Maya Gabeira  Maya Gaberia is a big wave surfing phenomenon from Brazil and one of the best female big wave surfers ever. Hailing from Rio de Janeiro, Maya has surfed some of the world’s most terrifying big wave spots, including Portugal/s Nazare and Tahiti’s Teahupoo. She has won XXl awards and even a Guinness World Record for a wave she rode at (68ft) Nazare after almost drowning there four years previous.  10. Malia Manuel  Malia Manuel is a professional surfer and model from Kauai, Hawaii. Despite appearing at the highest level in multiple CT events, she is regarded as one of the most underrated female surfers. She remains at the top level of female surfing (despite not competing on the WCT) … Read more

Kelly Slater (Surfing GOAT): Surfing Redefined

kelly-slater-pro-surfer-how-much-do-pro-surfers make

Kelly Slater is synonymous with surfing and is one of the most successful athletes to walk the planet. The greatest surfer of all time. The GOAT. Kelly’s surfing has transcended generations, changing how surfers approach waves and redefining radical surfing. A combination of old-school flow and new-school flare led to a style of surfing that won the Floridian 11 x world titles and imprinted him in the memory of surfing forever.  Kelly’s influence on surfing is clear, and his prowess in competitive surfing is what he’s so famous for. But in this article, we take a deeper dive into the life of Kelly Slater. We’ll discover how his early career played out, how he got so damn good at surfing in wave-starved Florida, and how this competitive dominance in waves of consequence. We will also look closer at his personal life, what the 51-year-old life looks like outside of surfing, and what the future holds. It’s a long and inspiring story, so grab a cuppa, and we’ll dive in!  The Rise of a Young Surfer:  Kelly Robert Slater was born in Cocoa Beach, Florida, on February 11, 1992. While Florida has produced some notable professional surfers over the years, the region is not typically associated with world-class waves. In fact, it’s flat most of the year. This makes Kelly’s rise to surfing success all the more astonishing. A young slater, the son of a fishing shop owner, came from a troublesome home and spent much of his childhood outdoors and at the beach. He has two brothers and began surfing at the age of 5.  Kelly was competing by age ten and beating kids much older than him in contests up and down the US East Coast. Kelly started competing in 1984 and turned pro in 1990. However, his first two years on the WSL World Championship Tour (then ASP) weren’t plain sailing. He struggled for results, and it took time to adjust to life on tour and surfing well enough to beat his competitors, many of which were his idols.  But by 1992, Kelly was winning—a lot. In the first five events of the 1993 tour year, he finished 3rd place or higher in three of the events before winning his first Championship Tour event at the Rip Curl Pro France later in the year. The event was held in windy Hossegor and beat tour veteran and fierce competitor Martin Potter to claim his maiden win. He later won the Pipeline Masters and his first world title, aged only 20. Kelly is still the youngest-ever surfer to win the world title. And, the eldest, winning his last at age 39. After a 6th place “blip” finish in 1994, Hawaiian legend Michael Ho won that year. Kelly went on to win five consecutive world titles in 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002. Yes, five! A feat is unmatched by anyone and a record unlikely to be broken. After 2002 and his fourth win, Kelly took a break from professional surfing.  How Did Kelly Get So Good?  Before we come back to Kelly’s competitive career and his return to professional surfing, how did Kelly get so good at surfing? For lack of a better description, the waves in Florida are terrible all the time, so how did young Slater improve, particularly in waves of consequence?   Kelly would have to travel the world to surf better waves, bigger waves, and in line-ups where competition would be fierce. Line ups like on the North Shore of Oahu. It would be here that Kelly would go on to learn how to surf big waves and gain confidence as the World Tour became the dream tour, where waves of power and quality were added to the schedule, waves like Teahupo, Cloudbreak, and G-land.  Hawaii  Now, Kelly is renowned for surfing well in barreling waves, one of, if not the best. But it wasn’t always this way. In Kelly’s autobiography, Pipe Dreams, he states that everything changed for him one North Shore Season. One day, a huge NW swell hit Oahu, and a young Kelly headed to the island’s West side. He pulled up at a spot called Makaha, one of the original big wave spots and a legendary break in Hawaii.  Here, he met with Brandon Davis, who was waxing up a big wave gun and took Kelly under his wing for the session. They paddled out together for a wicked session at 30-40ft Makaha. It was the tips Davis gave Kelly during this session that Kelly used for confidence in big surf, and Kelly still references the session today. Kelly has put more time in than anyone on the North Shore, a place where traditionally, non-Hawaiians fare poorly in competition. Kelly is now regarded as one of the best Pipe competitors ever.  Heat Strategy Kelly became obsessed with surfing heats and gained a notorious reputation for using mind games in contests. He took things very seriously. While much of the World Tour contingent were partying their way around tour locations, Kelly took detailed notes on his competitors, their heat strategy, waves scores, and what he had to do to ride waves more critically. He was also part of the group of young tour rookies sticking it to the old school with a new way of surfing–the Momentum generation,   Channel Islands Surfboards  Another considerable aspect of Kelly’s surfing success was his decades-long relationship with surfboard shaper Al Merrick. Getting boards dialed in takes a long time. The two worked meticulously to create boards that allowed Kelly to surf more critically, perform tighter arcs and ride more in the pocket. Surfing that would fetch Kelly bigger scores.  Health & Diet  Kelly’s out-of-water training regime is shrouded in mystery, and no one knows what he does to stay fit out of the water. However, it’s well known he takes his health, diet, and body extremely seriously. After all, the guy’s still competing at age 51! Magic pills, perhaps?  Kelly Slater’s Career (Career, Achievements & Awards)  After a … Read more

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