Luke Morris

Reef Rash: A Comprehensive Guide

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

There’s a picture-perfect blue wave peeling lushly into a channel. A Perfect hollow barrel with an easy exit and roll-in entry–the easiest wave you’ll ever surf. The sun’s beaming, the water is bathtub-like, and there’s no one else in sight. It’s the stuff of dreams, right? If you’ve been lucky enough to sample the waves of the Mentawais or the Maldives, you’ll know this scene is a daily occurrence. I mean, it’s why you go! However, not everything is as it seems. What many people don’t tell you about some of the world’s best waves is they all break over sharp shallow reefs. Most tropical surf spots break over razor-sharp coral, and if you’ve ever dived on these reefs on flat days or been lucky enough to come into contact with one after a wipeout, you’ll know first-hand just how sharp and nasty they are. It’s a danger most surfers are pretty blase about. But falling can lead to serious injury, laceration, or reef rash. In this article, we dive into the annoying world and trip hindrance that is reef rash. From what it is and its symptoms to what you can do about it. I’ve written this post to give you confidence on your next surf trip and show you that reef rash doesn’t mean your trip is over. We have a bit to uncover, so let’s dive in. What is Reef Rash? Reef rash is the slang term given to a surfer who falls and cuts themselves on a reef. Typically, these types of injuries will appear as either a laceration or graze. They often look worse than they are if there’s lots of blood, and it can be so bad that medical treatment (stitches) is required. Coral is sharp and contact with it can break coral heads and mean you not only have a cut, but tiny pieces of coral implanted into you, which in somewhere like remote Indonesia is a recipe for infection. This is reef rash; if you’ve ever been on a trip and experienced it, you’ll know it can make you uncomfortable, itchy, in pain, and even out of the water. So how can you prevent reef rashes in the first place? How to Prevent Reef Rash? The best and easiest way to prevent reef rash is not to surf shallow reef breaks. Duh? Or, like me, spend your entire ten-day Mentawai trip terrified of the reef sitting wide in the channel. But you don’t want to do this. You want to catch amazing waves and maybe the barrel of your life. When surfing shallow reefs, there’s always the risk of hitting the reef and getting rashed up. Reef Boots The most common area to get reef rash and cuts are the feet. Whether from walking across the reef or getting in from a break to fumbling around and getting your board back after a wave, the feet cop the brunt of it when it comes to contact with sharp reef. Thankfully, you can purchase a pair of reef boots. These are super thin wetsuit boots that protect your feet from the reef. It’s the best way to prevent most reef cuts! I’ve never worn reef boots because I come from England and refuse to put on any sort of wetsuit-related bootie in the topics; after all, it’s what I go to Indo to escape, so I just get cut–stupid! Helmet A helmet is great for more serious waves, such as shallow, hollow reef passes. The Gath helmet has seen a resurgence in recent years in lineups worldwide after Owen Wright took out the Chopes WCT wearing one. It’s strange that, as surfers, most of us don’t wear helmets even when surfing waves of consequence; you wouldn’t see a skateboarder without a helmet launching massive airs in a half pipe, would you? So a helmet might not prevent reef rash, but it can protect you against more serious and life-threatening injuries on shallow reefs. Rash Vest The clues in the name. A wetsuit top (2mm) can help prevent reef rash. Let’s say you fall and scrape your back against the bottom, bareback this would result in long grazes and reef rash all down your back. But by wearing just a thin wetsuit top, you project yourself, even just a little bit, from this risk. While a wettie top might not protect you entirely, it also serves as excellent sun protection, and if it’s a bit windy or raining, even in the tropics, I get cold, which helps with that too! Symptoms of Reef Rash Other than bleeding and stinging, some of the reef rash symptoms may include: Aching Firey feeling Redness Soreness Itching Mainly it will sting a lot and be annoying, but if symptoms persist, it could mean you have an infection (look for a reddening area around the cut), which will need antibiotics. How to Treat Reef Rash? If you’ve already had a fall and copped a bit of reef rash, don’t stress. There are a few ways you can treat it and prevent infection straight off the bat. Please note that for severe lacerations and cuts, you’ll need medical attention and may need stitching. But for minor scratches and grazes, the following remedies can work wonders. Lime – Any surf camp in the tropics will have a few limes knocking about, and this is the traditional budget surf travelers’ reef rash remedy. And yes, it works–well! Grab a lime and squeeze and rub it into the rashed area. The acidity in the lime will help clean and disinfect bacteria from the reef. Yes, it does hurt like hell, and yes, you might scream. But it’s super effective. Betadine – Betadine is not available in all counties (I can’t get it over the counter in the UK), but if you’re in Bali or coming from Australia, you can buy s small tub of betadine for less than $10 at your local chemist. It’s a brown disinfectant liquid that stops bacteria, and … Read more

Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

When you begin a new sport, such as surfing, you must learn the basics. The basics of any sport allow the athlete to grow in confidence and master more advanced tricks in the future. So, before you focus on the gnarliest tricks done by professional surfers, focus on getting the basics right. The best surfing tricks for beginners include the pop-up, the bottom turn, and the cutback, and these tricks, when practiced repeatedly, will lead the surfer to be able to do more advanced tricks. The best intermediate surfing tricks for beginners include the top turn, floater, and off-the-lip. In the article below, we will dissect the best tricks for beginner/intermediate surfers and provide a step-by-step guide on executing them. The best thing about starting with the best basic tricks for beginner surfers is finding a certain flow to your surfing. Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners: A Guide to Getting Started Technically speaking, before you focus on any of the best surfing tricks for beginners listed in the article, the first and one of the most important tricks to master is paddling. You will struggle to get in the best positions to perform the various surfing tricks without a good paddling technique. Surfing is a water sport where a surfer uses a board to ride the face (forward section) of a moving wave toward the shore. The surfer must employ a variety of basic tricks and proper techniques to successfully surf a wave and evolve into the best water athlete possible. Here’s a list of the key basic surfing tricks for beginners, and if you’re new to the sport of surfing, it’s highly suggested that you master them first: Basic Surfing Tricks for Beginners: The Pop-Up One of the most fundamental tricks of surfing is called the pop-up. The maneuver gets you from lying to standing; ultimately, you can’t surf if you can’t perform a pop-up, as you need to be on your feet when surfing. Think of the pop-up as a single-motion push-up that is both explosive and fluid simultaneously. Try the following steps when practicing the pop-up. Step 1: Positioning Your Body on the Surfboard The correct body positioning on the board is vital when performing a pop-up. Ideally, you want to lay in the sweet spot of your board, not too far forward and not too far back. Balancing in the middle of your board, called the sweet spot, makes paddling more efficient, resulting in good speed and maneuverability while out on the water. Lying too far back will result in too much weight on the tail, slowing the board down and counterproductive to planning. Lying too far to the front of the board will result in more planning speed and forward momentum, but the chances of nosediving increase. Before you perform a pop-up, lie on your stomach with your feet together (toes pointing towards the back of the board) and your hands on the surfboard close to your shoulders. Step 2: Find the Right Position in the Water Moving around and positioning yourself in the water is a required skill when you want to catch a wave. Scan the horizon for the right wave and paddle towards it to position yourself in the right position. Start paddling to shore to ride the wave when it reaches you and lifts you. Step 3: Push Your Body Up and Pop Up by Sliding Your Feet When you’re on the wave (wait for the lift), you must push your body up by using your core muscles, hands, and arms and sliding your feet forward. The aim is to land on your feet in the stance you have practiced on dry land. Swing both legs under you when pushing your body up. Your front foot must be near the board’s center, and your back foot should be near the tail. Your knees must be bent, and your weight distribution should be centered over the board for the best balance. If everything goes swimmingly, you should manage to surf the wave. Pat yourself on your back as you have performed what surfers call the pop-up. Helpful Hint – Practice your pop-up technique on dry land until your body learns and stores the memory in muscles. The more comfortable you become on land and regarding technique, the better your pop-up will feel when doing it in the water. Here is a helpful video if you’re struggling with your pop-up technique. Basic Surfing Tricks For Beginners: The Bottom Turn When you can perform the pop-up, a new set of beginner tricks must be mastered. One of these is called the bottom turn. The bottom turn is used to control your ride down the line in a smooth and effective manner. Step 1: Move Down the Wave Surfing involves moving to different parts of the wave to maximize the ride. After you pop up, the next thing to do is to ride the wave. As you go down the wave, your body should be in a crouch position. Make sure to focus on the spot of the wave where you want to go and use your extended arms for balance. Step 2: Keep Your Weight on Your Back Foot When reaching the bottom part of the wave, the aim is to keep your weight on your back foot, as you will need to launch the board into a pivotal turn and redirect it towards the face of the wave. Step 3: Launch the Board Up the Face of the Wave When you reach the bottom area of the wave, weight on the back foot, you need to push the tail of the surfboard down, turning it up to face the face of the wave. Keep your arms extended for balance, with your knees slightly bent, focused on where you want to go. The bottom turn sets you up to successfully ride down the line and rejoin the wave in surfable areas. Here is an excellent video on perfecting the bottom turn featuring Patrick … Read more

Mikey Wright: Australia’s Favorite Surfing Son

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Few surfers combine such an out-there personality and surfing style as Mikey Wright. Embodying the true Aussie spirit, Mikey lives life in the fast lane–in and out of the water. In a sport so professional and clean-cut, the young Aussie is a refreshing antidote. An antidote that brings surfing back to its raw uncut roots. In this post, we dive into the life of the youngest Wright sibling, born into an Australian surf royalty in NSW. We’ll dive into how Mikey got started with surfing, his competitive and free surfing career, as well as Mikey’s unique style and personality. He’s been up to a lot in the past few years, so let’s get down to it. Mikey Wright: Upbringing Mikey Wright was born in Culburra, NSW, Australia—a small surf town south of Sydney, where Mikey was the youngest of four siblings. The Wrights are a renowned Australian surfing family and one of the most successful surf families ever. Tyler, Mikey’s older sister, is a veteran on the CT and 2 x women’s world champion, while Owen, his older brother (now retired), has been a top 10 feature on the CT for the past decade. Yep, Mikey had a lot to live up to as a grom! His older siblings paved the way for young Milkey, feeding him into a lifestyle of all things surf. The family traveled up and down the East coast of Australia in a bus, competing in junior/QS contests and surfing their brains out. This out-the-ordinary upbringing set the foundations for how Mikey surfs today. Young Mikey was picked up by Quiksilver at a young age and shared the up-and-coming grom spotlight with now big-name surfers such as Jack Robinson, Leo Firovanti, and Kanoa Igarashi. Before chasing the CT, Mikey was already a notorious free surfer, gaining media and social traction for his show-stopping video edits. If you haven’t seen Mikey’s videos like Root and Rage, I recommend checking them out! Mikey now resides on the Gold Coast in Queensland and has succeeded in and out of the jersey. Mikey Wright’s Career As a junior, Milkey was successful in competition, taking out multiple junior events, which fed him into the WQS. After chasing waves and seemingly pursuing a career in free surfing, Mikey qualified for the Championship Tour in 2018. (Note – Mikey appeared as a wildcard in a handful of CT events beforehand). But Mikey’s induction to the Championship Tour was challenging. After sustaining a back injury while surfing in the WQS event at Pipeline in February, Mikey surfed the entire year nursing an injury–without telling anyone! Mikey pushed through the year with true Aussie grit and did what he needed to ensure requalification. He then pulled out of the remaining season to rest and recuperate for the following year. In 2019, Mikey secured a 12th-place season finish after a 3rd at Uluwatu/Margaret River Pro and Keramas CT events. With back problems still lingering, the 2020 tour was canceled anyway due to Covid, and we wouldn’t see professional surfing gain until 2021! For surfing’s return, the season wildcard was decided in a surf-off between Mikey and Leo Firovanti, who both had solid cases to be awarded the injury wildcard. Mikey lost to Leo in a Pipeline “surf-off” but still competed in many events as an injury replacement. In a condensed tour in 2021, due to many covid restrictions, Mikey completed the entire year before deciding to quit the tour to pursue his free surfing entirely. While Mikey was by no means a slouch on the competitive scene, he will be remembered for the intensity of his free surfing. A Unique Style & Personality In a sport that’s so clean, professional, and, let’s face it, a tad boring at times, Mikey’s raw approach, unique style, and personality are a refreshing touch to pro surfing and make the young Aussie stand out. Mikey loves all things Australia, spending his time camping, fishing, and 4WD’’ing in the bush. A fast-paced lifestyle that translates well into the water. With his famous mullet and beard, Mikey wouldn’t look out of place as a Gold Coast tradie but chuck him in the water, and he blows everyone else out of it. When you watch Mikey surf, you never really know what will happen. He charges in serious waves and surfs big waves like me, and you try and surf our 2ft local. Big barrels, smooth carves, and giant airs make up much of his surf edits–he is truly one of the best and most exciting surfers to watch ever. Tap into some Mikey content archives here. Sponsors, Achievements & Net Worth As you’d expect for such a prolific surfing figure, Mikey has gained solid sponsorships and been the face of Quiksilver since the launch of their “Stay High” campaign; a doth of the cap to surfing’s go hard or go home roots. With some high-place finishes in competition and stupidly good free surf edits, Mikey has amassed an estimated net worth of $5 million and represents everything it is to be a top Australian surfer. When Mikey surfs, people watch, which makes him so valuable, in the jersey or otherwise. Final Words While we don’t see Mikey surf as much as we’d like (his career has been plagued by injury, and he’s no longer on the CT), when Mikey posts clips, everyone stops to watch, and that’s how it is. If you’re a fan of big barrels, massive open-face carves, and ridiculously high airs, Mikey is up there with the best in the world. I don’t know the future of Milkey’s surfing, But I do know that when a clip crops up on the social feed, I stop whatever I’m doing and watch, and you should too! Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy and passion of surfing and water sports with enthusiasts around the world. With a deep-rooted love for the ocean and a lifelong … Read more

Julian Wilson: The Life and Career of a Legendary Pro Surfer

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Julian Wilson is one of the most stylish surfers ever, a surfer who combines perfect technique and flow with modern progression. An elite surfer for the past two decades and one of the best to watch, and although he never pinched a world title (damn it, Medina), Julian was a regular top 10 feature on the CT. With stand-out performances at the heaviest tour stops, Julian showed prowess in waves of consequence to back his high-performance surfing. Throw in his show-stopping movie parts, and you have one of the best and most influential surfers ever. Julian’s surfing will stand the test of time and in this post, we dive into the life of Julian. From his upbringing and early rise to fame to how he secured one of the biggest sponsorship deals in surfing. We’ll also check out why Julian retired and what he’s up to now in and out of the water. It’s been an illustrious career, which means we have a lot to get through. Let’s get down to it. Julian Wilson’s Early Life & Rise to Fame Julian had what most would consider the perfect surfing upbringing. Born and raised in Coolum Beach, Queensland, Jualin grew up around a family of keen surfers and what can only be described as the perfect environment for a budding surfer. Warm water year-round, a scattering of fun beach breaks, and Noosa’s dreamy point break just a short drive up the coast–a combination that would pave the way for young Julian. At a super young age, Wilson drew the eyes of sponsorships after competing in regional and national events as a grom and wowing with progressive surfing and a style well beyond his years. Julian would enter all categories in these events, taking out the longboard category, smashing the junior division, and well in the men’s as well. Wilson joined Quiksilver at a super young age and became the face of the brand alongside Kelly Slater, Jeremy Flores, and Freddy Pattachia. After a successful junior career and incredible free surfing, Jules was getting traction from around the world. Spending more and more time away from school; surfing on boat trips alongside his heroes and competing on the WQS, Julian reached his destiny, the World Championship Tour. However, after qualifying, Julian decided to take a year off to film his signature movie “Julian Wilson: Scratching the Surface”. Which, if you haven’t seen it, I’d drop what you’re doing, and check it out now. Julian, confident he would qualify after a year off, went back on the WQS and did exactly that. Julain’s Career, Highlights & Achievements Wilson spent the best part of two decades as a regular fixture in the top 10 on the Championship Tour. After filming his hit movie, Julian went all in and hard into the competitive scene. He finished 9th in his first year; winning the coveted Rookie of the Year award with solid performances at major world tour locations. In 2012, he backed up his first year, showing everyone that his first year at the highest level wasn’t a fluke and that he was there to stay–making a real charge for the title. He finished 9th again in 2012 and took out the Rip Curl Pro Portugal as his maiden event win. In 2014, Julian won one of the hardest and most prestigious events to win on the entire CT roster–The Billabong Pipe Masters. Julian impressed everyone with a fearless performance at heavy first reef Pipeline, not that he needed to prove anything in big surf after some incredible tow waves at the Teahupoo Code Red swell the year previous. After surfing for Quicksilver for a decade, Julain was offered a huge contract from Nike, after the sports brand entered surfing and Julian was treated like a true sports star, up there with Tiger Woods and the top basketballers of the time. You can watch more about one of the biggest contracts in surfing, in Stab Magazine’s How Surfers Get Paid). It’s an epic watch! Julian took out The Triple Crown of surfing in 2014, the Billabong Pro Teahupoo in 2017, the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast in 2018, and the Quiksilver Pro France in 2018. What a year! Unfortunately, he was pipped to the post by Gabriel Medina for the world title in 2018. After a competitive break due to Covid in 2020, Julian represented Australia at the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 (2021) but again lost to Brazilian Medina, in round 3 of the men’s shortboard event. Julian then retired after the Olympics, aged 33. The decision came as somewhat of a shock to some, but Julian stated the decision was to pursue a life outside of surfing, spend time with his family, and a decision that made him, quote; “The happiest I’ve ever been.” Julian Wilson’s Personal Life & Interests Julain is a strong advocate for breast cancer as his mom overcame the disease and Julain stands alongside fellow Australian Jackson Baker as an advocate. Often riding pink boards and wearing pink boardshorts to raise awareness. He is also strongly behind a number of environmental causes helping to protect the coast around Australia and the world. Julian also loves cricket, skateboarding, and dirt biking! Wilson is married to model Ahsley Osborne, and the pair have two young daughters. After retiring and spending more time with his girls, Julian started the surf and lifestyle brand Rivvia project, to create “surf gear that I actually feel comfortable in when performing. Today & The Future of Julian Wilson It’s no doubt that Julain is and has been one of the most influential surfers of our time. An Australian great with CT event wins and movie sports to back it. While we don’t see Julain surf as much as we used to, we can still delve into the archives and check out movies like Lost Atlas and Scartching the Surfcae, hen surfing was very much at its peak financially and in my option, movie production-wise. Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an … Read more

Surf Wetsuit Temperature Guide | Staying Warm

June 2, 2023by Luke Morris

Surf Wetsuit Water Temperature Guide | Staying Warm

Surfing is not just a sport; it’s a lifestyle. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting, understanding how to maintain the ideal temperature while riding the waves is crucial for an enjoyable experience. And if there’s one thing that keeps surfers, swimmers, and water lovers alike stay in the waters for too long, it is the right wetsuit. But, with the many different types of wetsuits our surf industry has, it can be confusing to pick the right one. More often than not, wetsuits become a compromise between staying warm and comfortable and feeling flexible. This wetsuit water temperature guide will help you decipher the wetsuit thickness code and find the right water apparel according to your local water temperatures. How Do Wetsuits Work? Wetsuits work by entrapping a thin layer of water between your body and the suit. This layer of water gets warmed by your body. Thus, keeping you from losing too much heat while in the water. What traps the heat –neoprene insulation particularly made for warmth and protection in watersports. Neoprene is made of small closed cells packed and sealed with air that provide insulation against cold water by trapping heat in. Generally, the thicker the wetsuit’s neoprene is, the warmer the suit as it has more heat-trapping insulation. Wetsuit Water Temperature Guide In sports like surfing, you spend most of your time in the water. You wait for potential waves, paddle to it, and surf. Consequently, it makes you less exposed to the wind and outside water temperature, unlike kitesurfing, wakeboarding, or windsurfing. Most wetsuits indeed come with the manufacturer’s temperature ratings. However, it isn’t always the most accurate. So, the best way to deal with it is to consider the manufacturer’s marks and these few factors. Water Temperature Water temperature is merely just the start. Aside from it, you will have to consider air temperature. Some climates may have the air temperature relatively warm with cold water. Usually, if the air is warmer, you can go for a thinner wetsuit than what’s typically recommended. Wind should also be factored in since it significantly changes the water and airy feel. Lastly, consider the activity you will perform and your cold sensitivity. Colder Water Calls for Thicker Wetsuit Neoprene provides a good layer of insulation from different weather elements. So, the thicker the wetsuit, the more protected you get. Hooded wetsuits can also be a great option in very cold water, along with neoprene surf booties. Cold water can be very threatening to your health if you are not prepared for the elements. Quality of the Wetsuit A big part of picking the right wetsuit for any water temperature is the suit’s quality. High-quality wetsuits are usually double-stitched, taped, sealed, or liquid-sealed. This construction makes it harder for the low temperature to penetrate. Water Temperature Wetsuit Thickness Wetsuit Type Destination Extras < 42 °F / 5.5 °C 6/5 mm – 6/5/4 mm Hooded Full Wetsuit Greenland Rashguard, booties, wetsuit hood, wetsuit gloves 43-52 °F / 6.1-11.1 °C 5/4 mm – 5/4/3 mm Hooded Full Wetsuit England, Netherlands (in winter) Rashguard, booties, wetsuit hood, wetsuit gloves 52-58 °F / 11.1-14.4 °C 4/3 mm – 5/4/3 mm Hooded Full Wetsuit San Francisco, Cape Town (in winter) Warm Rashguard, booties, wetsuit gloves 58-63 °F / 14.4-17.2 °C 3/2 mm – 4/3 mm Full Wetsuit Tarifa, Spain Neoprene Top 62-68 °F / 16.6-20°C 2 mm – 3/2 mm Spring Wetsuit / Full Wetsuit Mediterranean (in Mid Season), California, Gulf of Mexico, Cape Town (in summer) Neoprene Top 65-75 °F / 18.3-23.8°C 0.5 mm – 2/1 mm Short Arm Steamer / Wetsuit Jacket Mediterranean Sea (in summer), Florida (except summer) n/a > 72 °F / 22.2°C n/a Rashguard Bali, Sri Lanka, Hawaii, Philippines, Brazil, North Carolina (in summer) Rashguard, waterproof sunscreen How Should a Wetsuit Fit? Your wetsuit should act as your second skin. It should be snug with no sagging in the back or excessive bunching in certain spots like the arms or legs. Wetsuits are supposed to fit tight to keep only a thin layer of water between your body and your suit. If your suit is loose, water will flood and flush through, making the suit less effective at keeping you warm. Moreover, your wetsuit should also fit snugly around your neck. This fitting around your neck may cause a rash, so be sure to protect yourself with a rash guard underneath. How Long Can a Person Survive in Cold Water Without Wetsuits? The coldest water you can find is usually within 39 to 41 degrees F. This is before it turns into ice. Typically, a person can endure in such water temperature for about 10 to 20 minutes. This is how long it takes for the body temperature to drop to 70 to 80 degrees F. When the body reaches this dangerously low temperature, cardiac arrest may most likely happen. Even before the heart stops, the muscles get weak, and it loses coordination and strength. One of the most common misconceptions is that vigorous swimming helps keep the body warm in cold water. This is not true. Swimming in cold water will not keep you warm. Sure, you will feel your blood rushing to the skin. In reality, it makes you lose more heat by swimming. Water Temperature and Expected Time of Survival Chart Water Temperature Expected Time Before Unconsciousness Expected Time of Survival 32.5°F / 0.3°C < 15 minutes 45 minutes 32.5–40° F / 0.3–4.4° C 15 to 30 minutes 30 to 90 minutes 40–50° F / 3.3–10° C 30 to 60 minutes 1 to 3 hours 50–60°F / 10–15.6°C 1 to 2 hours 1 to 6 hours 60–70°F / 15.6–21.1°C 2 to 7 hours 2 to 40 hours 70–80°F / 21.1–26.7°C 3 – 12 hours 3 hours to indefinitely > 80°F / > 26.7°C Indefinitely Indefinitely Additional Tips for Staying Warm and Comfortable Proper Fit: Ensure your wetsuit fits snugly but allows for freedom of movement. A loose wetsuit will let water in, … Read more

Can Longboards Surf Big Waves?

June 1, 2023by Luke Morris

The global prevalence of longboards has exploded over the previous decade, mainly due to their practicality, functionality, and ease of use when surfing over slower and smaller waves. Modern longboards are typically wider, longer, heavier, and more cumbersome than traditional shortboards. Longboards can technically be used to surf big waves, but it is not recommended. While longboards can be used for surfing big waves, their lengthy, functional, and passive design makes them difficult to maneuver, increasing the chance of severe injury. Longboards are intended to function optimally when traversing smaller, slower waves found in calmer waters. are an inexperienced surfer or longboarder, experts recommend using one of the traditional shorter surfboards when surfing big, fast, and powerful waves. However, you can safely use your longboard to surf bigger waves in an unexpected emergency. To guarantee your safety and enjoyment, it is vital to use the correct equipment when surfing, as this article will detail. Are Longboards Practical For Surfing Big Waves? Longboards are not practical for surfing bigger, faster, and more powerful waves as they were originally designed to operate effortlessly in slower, smaller, and less forceful waves. While longboards can occasionally handle bigger waves, modern iterations were not intended to continuously traverse the power, speed, or gradient associated with larger waves. However, longboards measuring between nine and ten feet in length can be utilized by experienced surfers to surf in big wave conditions, although this is not recommended for their inexperienced counterparts. It is said that with the correct equipment and technique, longboards can be an optimal tool to handle some of the largest and most powerful waves imaginable. At the same time, before you attempt to surf big, fast, and powerful waves with a longboard, there are several important considerations to initially account for. It is incredibly challenging to duck under waves, paddle out, and glide down steep inclines using a traditional longboard. In addition, you must master the fundamentals of big wave and nose-ride surfing before attempting to take your longboard out into larger, more powerful waters. It is worthwhile noting that modern longboards function optimally in waves of between one and four feet. Most operational longboards can be found in locations such as Hawaii and California, with their notable lull between more forceful swells being ideal. Since longboards have more volume, are longer, and are significantly heavier compared to shorter surfboards, they offer users unparalleled stability and forgiveness in calmer waters. Moreover, longboards are usually easier to operate and become accustomed to, making it perfect for inexperienced people to learn how to surf. Are Longboards Or Shortboards Better For Big Wave Surfing? Short surfboards are the better option for most people concerning big-wave surfing as they offer significantly enhanced control, maneuverability, and agility compared to modern longboards. Traditionally, shorter surfboards are manufactured in a narrower, more streamlined, and shorter shape. The designs typically associated with shortboards enable them to maneuver instantly in any direction, ideal for having as much control as possible during critical moments while surfing big, steep, and powerful waves. At the same time, big-wave surfers prefer highly specialized surfboards known as tow boards or gun boards. Generally, these surfboards are considered shortboards as their unique shaping allows them to handle the unmatched intense forces associated with rapidly moving big waves. It should be noted that while shortboards are usually preferred when surfing bigger, faster waves, longboards can be utilized if necessary. Despite being impractical for high-velocity big-wave surfing, longboards can technically handle big waves if utilized correctly by an experienced surfer. Additionally, the likelihood of experiencing severe injury while big wave surfing is significantly increased when using longboards. Longboards are not considered unsafe; however, they are substantially more difficult to maneuver quickly, which makes control at crucial moments during the big wave surfing near impossible for most surfers. While shortboards are accepted as being more practical regarding big-wave surfing, the ultimate decision should be taken per your current surfing skill level, confidence, and state of mind. Taking risks during big-wave surfing can quickly lead to unnecessary disasters, severe injury, and even death. Tips For Using A Longboard To Surf Big Waves Safety is the most important aspect of using a longboard to surf big waves. The sheer size, weight, and volume associated with modern longboards make them hazardous projectiles for inexperienced surfers. There are numerous tips for using a longboard to surf big waves, depending on your skill and experience levels. However, there are five fundamental aspects every longboard surfer should remember while attempting to catch big, powerful, and fast waves: Remember to wear a certified, high-quality leash, which is commonly thought of as the most vital piece of safety equipment for kite surfers while on the waves. Always maintain an appropriate distance from any crowded peaks or fellow swimmers, as the volume, weight, and length associated with modern longboards render them a significant safety risk. Maintain perfect situational awareness while watching your back to ensure the safety of surrounding surfers. Give preference to shortboard surfers when big waves are hard to come by. You should never kick out in a flashy, stylish, or reckless manner, as the longboard’s weight could easily cause severe injury or even death. While catching and riding big waves using a longboard is more challenging, it is possible with relatively little practice. When using a longboard to ride big and powerful waves, it is vital to catch the wave as early as possible before it breaks. If the wave breaks while attempting to catch it, you will be thrown over the front, as longboards cannot safely surf down steep wave faces. Catching big waves early, maintaining a knee-bent position, and staying relaxed is the best approach when using longboards, as they will allow you to pinpoint the optimal portion of the board for your feet to be placed for enhanced maneuverability. Once you are comfortable catching larger, steeper, and more powerful waves, you can implement the drop knee technique, cross-stepping, and riding the nose to make … Read more

The Best Surf Cars For Your Beach Adventure

May 28, 2023by Luke Morris

A surfer’s gear makes traveling far distances to the beach complicated. That is unless you have the right car. Fortunately, there are several fantastic cars for surfers! However, the struggle is knowing which models make the cut. So if you’re planning your next beach adventure, read this article to discover the best surf cars. The best surf car has sufficient storage to safely accommodate passengers and gear, including a large body or roof racks. These cars must also be affordable and, most importantly, reliable. While Toyota, Jeep, and Volkswagen have fantastic options, surf cars are not limited to specific brands. Unfortunately, most of us do not live within walking distance from the beach. Although most new surfers don’t consider it, having a suitable car is essential. While you might already have a car, it’s no guarantee it’ll be great for surfing! Below we investigate what makes a good surf car and which brands are best. What Makes A Good Surf Car? While any vehicle is better than none (extending to scooters, e-bikes, normal bikes, etc.), a car makes all the difference when transporting your surfing gear. However, not every car is the perfect “surf mobile,” as a good surf car needs to meet some important criteria. For example, larger vehicles provide more space for surfboards and gear but are usually heavier on gas and cost more to service. The ideal surf car is a trade-off between space, comfort, safety, and affordability. A pickup truck meets many of the criteria surfers need in their vehicles; however, they are more expensive to purchase and maintain than smaller vehicles. A van is also practical but equally heavy on the gas. The best method of selecting a good surf car is to get out and test various models. Take your board along and compare it (when possible) to the car’s dimensions to get a better feel for your needs. A Good Surf Car Should Be Big Enough Gear, surfboards, other surfers (we’ve all played lift club), food; there are many things to consider (and find a place for) when packing your car. The worst is if you can’t fit everything you need because your car is too small or doesn’t have enough space. A good surf car needs enough space to safely store and transport everything. A Place For You Board(s) While a truck is ideal for boards thanks to its load body, it’s not the only way to transport surfboards (and stacking a longboard surfboard on the back of a truck is not a guaranteed fit!). A good surf car should accommodate roof racks because they solve your board-carrying problems. Alternatively, a car that pulls a trailer is also practical, as you can fit most of your gear into it. It’ll also make surfing weekends away from home easier (more space to pack tents/sleeping-out equipment). A Good Surf Car Should Be Affordable Surfing is not a cheap hobby. While the stereotype of surfers being “broke beach bums” is not necessarily true, most surfers appreciate saving some money somewhere. A good surf car must be affordable on purchase and when refueled and serviced/fixed. A Good Surf Car Should Be Reliable The essential feature of a good surf car is that it is a reliable vehicle that does not leave you hanging. Imagine going on a road trip/surfing holiday to a remote area. You spend the day surfing up a storm, only to find out that your car (that’s been struggling to start) won’t start. An unreliable car is a nuisance or even an outright safety hazard in many situations. You need a car that operates correctly (starts, brakes, stops, lights, flickers, etc.) to keep you safe on your travels. A Good Surf Car Must Be Compatible With The Terrain While most people surf in areas easily accessible by good roads, there are several places where a normal sedan might not be adequate for getting to your favorite surf spot. While you might not need a four-wheel drive vehicle, you want a surf car with sufficient clearance to get through rougher terrain. While off-roading is not for everyone, it’s important to remember terrain compatibility when traveling to new surf spots. What Are The Best Surf Car Brands? Although certain car manufacturers make better surf cars, no “ultimate” brand exists. Some brands produce more applicable models that fit your criteria better, while others won’t work. The table below lists some popular brands, models, and what type of vehicle they are. Brand Model Vehicle type Ford Flex SUV Ranger Pickup truck Jeep Wrangler SUV Subaru Crosstrek Compact SUV Forester SUV/Station wagon Suzuki Jimny SUV Volkswagen Beetle Compact car Caddy Van California Van Caravelle Van Golf Compact car Volvo V90 SUV/Station wagon Thanks to the effort these companies put into their vehicle designs, these brands offer spacious, reliable, practical, and fuel-efficient models which make ideal surf cars. However, not all models these brands produce are suitable for surf cars. Although these are the brands you’ll frequently see in beach parking lots, they are not the only ones. Many other brands produce suitable car models, and personal preference plays an essential role. Which Toyota Models Are Best For Surfing? No list of surf cars would be complete without a healthy Toyota component, so they get an entire entry. For whatever reason, when Toyota set out to make vehicles, they achieved greatness (probably accidentally) in producing some of the best surf cars on the market. Toyotas are some of the most popular surf cars thanks to their space, comfort, reliability, efficiency, and other features. The best Toyota surf car models include: Best Surf Cars: Toyota Prius V What the Prius lacks in storage capacity, it makes up for in fuel economy (average 53 miles/gallon) and affordability. Like most sedans, the Prius is limited in trunk space; however, with a decent pair of roof racks, your Prius will accommodate most boards (although maybe not many of them simultaneously). While not an off-roading vehicle, the Prius is ideal for … Read more

Mastering SUP Surfing: Techniques

May 28, 2023by Luke Morris

In Stand-Up Paddle (SUP) surfing, water and gravity conspire to create the perfect playground between water, paddle, and board. Even though it’s much easier than typical prone surfing, there is still a booty of tips and tricks to keep you out of Davy Jones’ Locker and mastering some sick shredding. With that in mind, how do you master SUP surfing and take your skills to the next level? The key to mastering SUP surfing is to read the ever-changing conditions, conquer the whitewash, position yourself perfectly to catch waves and navigate the lineup appropriately. It includes knowing the proper paddling form, board positioning, and reading and navigating through the waves. SUP surfing is climbing the charts as a popular must-do sport combining exhilarating versatility and stability when riding waves. As soon as you have the nitty-gritty down to master the art, you’ll shred your masterpiece, using the ocean as your canvas. Read on as we help you get ready to level up your skills and climb into the thrilling world of SUP surfing. SUP Surfing Technique 1: Proper Paddling Form Paddling is the foundation of SUP surfing. It’s how you get from points A-B, catch waves, and maneuver on the board. Without proper paddling form, you’ll waste energy, lose speed, and miss out on the fun. Here are some tips to improve your paddling form and power: How To Hold The Paddle: Tips & Tricks The paddle is your trusty companion in the water, so make sure you hold it with finesse. Grip the handle with your top hand and place the other hand halfway down the shaft. Remember, the blade should face forward, not backward, like a rebellious rookie. This forward-facing position gives you stability and the power to slice through the water and embrace the wider-arm stance for extra control and leverage – it’s the secret sauce to keeping your SUP surfing journey steady. Paddling is it’s a full-body symphony and not just an arm workout. Engage your core muscles and let them serenade the water as you paddle. Keep those legs slightly bent and springy, ready to absorb any wild waves that come your way. To execute the perfect paddle stroke: Reach forward, extending your paddle without compromising your balance. Immerse the blade into the water, close to the board, and feel the connection with the current. Pull back with conviction, using your core and torso to rotate as if you’re harmonizing with the ocean’s rhythm. Lift the blade when it reaches your feet, ready to repeat the symphony on the other side. Using Your Legs To Generate Power Ah, the hidden treasure of SUP surfing – your legs, which are not just for standing; they hold the key to unlocking the wave’s potential. The more comfortable you become using your legs, the easier the process becomes. Here are some steps to follow when embracing your leg power: Hold the bend in your knees, the spring in your step, and let your legs become the driving force behind your paddling prowess. As you reach forward with your paddle, push down with your front leg like a surfer ready to launch into the unknown (try to stay on the board, of course). As you pull back, feel the power of your back leg pulling up, propelling you forward with a surge of energy. Switch legs, ensuring each stroke is a synchronized masterpiece. Proper paddling form is the gateway to SUP surfing greatness. It will elevate your speed, increase your wave-catching prowess, and unlock a world of endless fun. Remember these tips the next time you’re paddling it out, and you’ll begin to notice the effect. Practice with passion, and soon you’ll be gliding effortlessly on the water, leaving a vibrant trail in your wake! SUP Surfing Technique 2: Positioning On The Board Positioning on the board is like finding your groove, setting the stage for balance, speed, and maneuverability. To navigate the waves tactfully, you must master the art of finding the proper stance, adjusting your weight for balance, and positioning yourself on the wave. Here are some tips to enhance your positioning on the board: Finding The Right Stance Almost like a performance, your stance on the board is everything. Stand with feet fairly wider than shoulder-width apart, slightly putting one foot in front of the other. Point your toes outward, embracing the surfer’s swagger. Remember to keep your knees bent, back straight, head up, and eyes locked forward. And to help you find your sweet spot, place a foot in front of the carry handle (which is located dead-center of your board if it has one) and the other about two feet behind it, allowing your weight to flow almost effortlessly over the board’s center, providing control and stability. Adjusting Your Weight For Balance As the waves sway beneath you, your weight becomes your ally in maintaining balance. Let your feet, hips, and core muscles be your guides. A few steps to finesse your weight adjustments include: Shifting your weight to your toes or heels to move frontward or backward on the board will help you catch waves or stylishly dodge a nose-dive. To carve left or right, gently shift your weight to your left or right foot, allowing the wave to become the momentum to move forward. To maintain balance, expand your stance or lower your center of gravity by holding the bend in your knees. This move absorbs the water’s surprises and keeps you in control. Knowing Where To Position Yourself On The Wave The wave becomes your rhythm, and your positioning sets the pace. To flow with the waves, keep the following in mind. To catch a wave, paddle with gusto, matching its speed and direction. Position yourself at the wave’s peak, where it first breaks. This prime spot grants you enough time and space to ride the wave like a maestro. To ride the wave’s rhythm, angle your board slightly toward the desired direction. Position yourself on the face of the … Read more

How To Get Better At Paddling For Surfing

May 28, 2023by Luke Morris

When you start surfing, the first thing that hits you square between the eyes isn’t a spray of water but rather how difficult it is to paddle. After a first session, you might feel all your shoulder, back, arm, and even finger muscles torn to pieces, indicating that you must practice the skill of paddling continuously. To enhance your paddling skills when surfing, you must apply the correct body position and ensure that your paddling technique is on par when paddling your hands and arms through the water. Regular exercise helps strengthen the muscles used for paddling, instantly improving your paddling skills. One of the very first surfing skills that you must learn to master is paddling. Even before you dream of basic skills such as the pop-up, bottom turn, and cut back, paddling is the one you need to focus on with all your energy because it’s a skill that saps your energy in the beginning. This article will highlight ways to improve your paddling skills. The Importance Of Paddling In Surfing If you’re contemplating joining the surfing world, it’s essential to know the following from the get-go. Without a strong upper body, which includes arms, back, shoulders, and neck, you will struggle to enjoy surfing to the fullest. Paddling, of all the surfing components, may seem the least important skill to master, but in truth, it’s the skill that elevates the surfing experience to another level. Ask experienced surfers how much paddling they do in a single surf session and wait for the 90%-of-the-time answer. Most of the time you will ever spend on a surfboard will involve paddling. So, it’s in your best interest to become efficient in paddling as quickly as possible for your sake and the surfers around you. Every surfer needs a good paddling technique to help get to the best surfing positions, navigate past other surfers without causing a hindrance, and ultimately catch and surf the waves. Paddling is a skill set that needs to be developed and practiced, as without proper paddling technique and a strong body that ensures paddling endurance, you will struggle to do the following consistently: Catch a wave: You will only catch waves with a suitable paddle technique. Upskilling your paddle capabilities will allow you to position yourself favorably for an incoming wave. Paddling moves you around in the water as you search for the best spot to sync with the waves. The best surfers are the best paddlers; you only catch the best waves with an efficient paddling technique. Stay in the water longer: If you can’t paddle, you can’t surf. Floating around on a board at the mercy of the ocean because your arms are sore and you can’t paddle anymore isn’t surfing; it’s more a case of surviving. In the beginning, as you slowly but surely build up your strength and technique, expect shorter surf sessions. Once you have gained paddling endurance, you will find that you can maneuver much better while in the water, and you won’t get so tired so fast. Distance: Paddling gets you around when in the water. On days when you need to cover a fair distance to get to the gnarliest waves, you will miss out if you can’t paddle efficiently. If your paddling technique is lacking, you will struggle to move to alternative surf spots, as you will get fatigued reasonably quickly when employing the wrong method. How To Improve Your Paddling Technique When you look at any successful surfer or sportsman, all we see is greatness. The ease with how these famous sports stars perform in their designated fields is always astounding and impressive, especially when trying your hand at the respective sport is difficult. We don’t see the hundreds of hours these superstars put in behind the scenes. We don’t see the blood, tears, and sweat. It’s the same with paddling. If you practice and implement what works for the surfers before you, you will indeed become a surfer with a good paddling technique. If you’re serious about surfing and want to improve your paddling technique, then the following tips will help you become a more efficient paddling machine: Focus On Your Body Position When paddling in the water, it’s essential to maintain the correct body position on your surfboard. What’s the correct body position when paddling? The head must always be upright, with your chest pushing forward, creating an arched back with raised shoulders. Your hips should be low in the water, improving your speed by reducing drag. Keep your feet together and out of the water, as feet touching the water creates foot breaks! Your body weight should rest on your sternum. Focus On How You Position Your Body On The Surfboard Align your whole body on the stringer, ensuring no leaning or rolling to one side. When you’re paddling out, your weight can be farther forward compared to when you’re paddling to catch a wave. You’ll struggle to get the surfboard to the plane in the water when you’re too far back. You’ll notice drag in the nose area when you position yourself too far forward. You’ll see how smoothly you glide through the water when you balance your weight perfectly. Focus On The Position Of Your Fingers, Hands, And Arms Push your fingers tightly together as if you’re forming a blade with them or slightly apart. Keep them stiff as you scoop them through the water, fingers pointing forward and palms down. Keep your wrists firm. Keep your shoulders high as your hands enter the water, focusing on slightly bending your arm as you reach forward to stroke through the water. Ensure you stroke past your body; you want long deep strokes, not short, fast ones! Practice your strokes so no surface splashing occurs; dig deep and as far back as possible. The greater the surface area that your hand, forearm, and arm move through, the faster the speed of your board. Focus On Your Breathing Technique Taking … Read more

Kanoa Igarashi: The Rising Surfing Star

May 28, 2023by Luke Morris

Kanoa Igarashi: A familiar household name in Japan and a name undoubtedly worthy of its growing popularity in the world of surfing, particularly in the western surfing hot spots such as Brazil, Australia, and the USA. This rising surfing star from Japan is destined to reach the top and give it his all to bring home the gold. Kanoa Igarashi is an American surfer from Japanese descent who’s been on the world-surfing scene since 2012. In 2016, at age 18, he entered as the youngest beginner to the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour. He is a silver medalist from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics and a 2024 Paris Olympic qualifier. Let’s dive into the life of this rising star. We will explore why Kanoa Igarashi chooses to surf for Japan. We will look at his early life, family, net worth, ranking, multilingual abilities, sponsors, participation in the Olympics and WSL competitions, world title aspirations, and his ever-growing inspirational Instagram account. Kanoa Igarashi: Birthplace And Early Years Kanoa Igarashi was born to parents Tsutomu and Misa on October 1st, 1997, in Huntington Beach, California- dubbed “Surf City.” Kanoa was always destined to surf as Tsutomu, his father, grew up in Japan and was an ardent surfer in the 1960s. Kanoa’s parents quit their jobs and moved from Tokyo to California just before his birth, hoping to raise him to be a competitive surfer. Kanoa was literally born riding a surfboard! At age 3, his father had him hitting the beach and riding the waves as early as 5:45 am each morning so he could still be on time for a day at school. By age 7, Kanoa had already signed his first endorsement deal with a local surf shop and won his first surfing trophy. The Igarashi parents were committed to grooming Kanoa into being one of the youngest and most promising surfers. The sacrifices made by his parents allowed Kanoa to live out his surfing dream and enabled him to qualify for the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour in 2015. Kanoa Igarashi made headlines in 2016 when he competed in the WSL for the first time and because he was the first representative surfer for Japan. He may have been the youngest surfer on tour, but he was by no means unskilled. He was about to prove his skills to be on point by surfing those waves with precision. Kanoa At The Olympics And WSL Competitions Kanoa represented Japan in Tokyo’s first-ever Summer Olympic Games in 2020. However, the games were postponed to July 2021 due to the 2019 coronavirus pandemic. Ironically, the chosen beach for the competition was the same beach that Keanu’s father surfed at back in his surfing days. Tsutomu Igarashi and his friends discovered this beach back in the ’60s. The boys climbed through fences and hiked through tall grass to find this wave. It became their little private “secret” beach, and they discovered the perfect wave they nicknamed the “Dojo.” Most of the Japanese competitors learned to surf at this beach. Little did Tsutomu know that his son would compete at this secret little beach spot at the Olympics one day. It must have been an incredibly proud and emotional moment for Kanoa’s father indeed, as the same wave his son was competing at the Olympics for the first time was the same wave that he had discovered. What a unique story, for sure! After being defeated by Brazil’s Italo Ferreira in the men’s final, Kanoa walked away with a silver medal. 2019 is marked as Kanoa’s best year yet, as he was ranked number 6 in the WSL CT World Tour and took the win. Some of Kanoa’s other significant WSL surfing achievements are: Tournament Name Year 2016 Year 2017 Year 2018 Year 2019 Hurley Pro at Trestles 13th 5th – – Fiji Pro 13th 25th – – Billabong Pipeline Masters 2nd 3rd 13th 17th MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 13th 3rd 5th 3rd Quicksilver Pro France 13th 25th 25th 17th Freshwater Pro – – 3rd 9th Billabong Pro Tahiti Teahupoo 13th 13th 9th 17th Corona Open J-Bay 13th 25th 3rd 5th Oi Rio Pro 13th 9th 9th 5th Margaret River Pro 13th 13th 25th 9th Corona Bali Protected – – 25th 1st Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach 13th 25th 25th 9th Quicksilver Pro Gold Coast 9th 25th 9th 9th FINAL RANKING 20th 17th 10th 6th Kanoa also boasts 2 US Open of Surfing champion wins in 2017 and 2018, and he is an inductee of the Surfers’ Hall of Fame, an imprint collection of legendary surfers in California Huntington Beach. Is Kanoa A World Title Holder? Even with a silver Olympic medal on the shelf and securing a quota spot to participate in the 2024 Olympic games to be held in Paris, Kanoa Igarashi has yet to become a world title holder. He secured his spot by participating in the 2022 ISA World Surfing Games and achieved one of his personal goals when he secured top 5 world status at this competition. He was grateful to have been afforded the opportunity of competing in his first world title event and to have been given a chance to fight for the world champion title holder. At the 2022 Rip Curl WSL Finals held at Lower Trestles, California, last September, Kanoa remained motivated and fixed on achieving his ultimate dream. However, Brazilian surfer Filipe Toledo walked away with his first world title at this event. We are pretty confident that Kanoa won’t give up any time soon. For now, we believe that Kanoa will focus on the qualification spot that Japan won for the men’s event for the 2024 Olympics. Considering that Kanoa won his first gold medal at the 2022 ISA World Surfing Games, we do not doubt that he will bring home a gold medal from the 2024 Olympics. He is currently taking all the steps needed to work towards his ultimate goal, a world title. We suggest you … Read more

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