Luke Morris

BEST Surf Towns IN THE USA: Guide for Surfers

June 7, 2023by Luke Morris

More than simply being a sport, surfing has become a lifestyle for many who love being on the water. With this in mind, many surfers enjoy visiting different surf towns to integrate with the culture while indulging in their love of waves. However, if you are looking to plan your next trip or, even better, relocate to a surf town, you’ll want to know a bit about the best surf towns in the US. Some of the best surf towns in the US in terms of waves, surf culture, and beach quality include Huntington Beach, Santa Cruz, and Haleʻiwa. However, there are also other towns to consider for different reasons, such as Port Isabel and Wilmington, both great cities for various reasons. Though there are many different surf towns in the US, not all are equal, and each has unique features that make it great. Below we discuss the best of the best and examine what makes each choice unique. In addition, we also give you some information on some of the best surf towns to relocate to, some of the cheaper surf towns to go to, and some of the best surf towns in different areas of the US. What Are the Best Surf Towns in the USA? When looking for the best surf towns in the US, the key considerations include the culture, beach quality, and wave consistency. With this in mind, we have listed some of the best surf towns in the USA below, including the details mentioned above. 1. Huntington Beach, California Huntington Beach, or Surf City as some know it, is a seaside city in Southern California. With a name like Surf City, it is only natural that this city is known for its excellent climate, gorgeous beaches, and the surfing culture you can find here. Beach Quality – With a beach maintenance group that cleans the beach and keeps everything in tip-top shape year-round, the quality of the beach itself is excellent. The ocean water is also safe to swim and surf in, meeting the health standards for bacteria levels. Wave Consistency – The consistency of the waves at the Huntington surf spots can differ significantly, but waves are relatively constant, even if they aren’t always rideable. With the most consistent waves, January is the best time to surf here. Surf Culture – Huntington Beach is rich with surf culture and history, with some of its history dating back to 1914 when George Freeth surfed at the pier dedication. With this in mind, though it took a few years for everyone to catch on, Huntington Beach is now filled with surf shops and even has a surfing museum you can visit. 2. Santa Cruz, California Known for some of its fantastic surf spots, like Steamer Lane, Santa Cruz is high on the list of best surf towns in the US. With numerous surf spots in and around Santa Cruz, surf schools for those who want to learn, beautiful views of the ocean, local wineries, and strong surf culture, Santa Cruz is perfect for any surfer, especially those who enjoy wine. Beach Quality – Though the Santa Cruz beaches are clean for the most part, the ocean water quality does differ frequently. It is best to check the latest tests for water quality before you get your surfboard ready. Wave Consistency – If you want the best chance to catch some waves on the water in Santa Cruz, it is best to visit in July. During this time of the year and most of the summer, more consistent and clean waves allow you to ride for longer. Surf Culture – Also boasting a surf museum, Santa Cruz has been a go-to surfing area since the 1880s when it got reported that three Hawaiian princes introduced the locals to surfing. Since then, Santa Cruz has been home to Jack O’Neill, who introduced the wetsuit, gathered tons of exciting surfing-related items like a shark-bitten surfboard, and gained popularity among surfers. 3. Haleiwa, Hawaii One of the most well-known surf towns, Haleiwa in Hawaii is a hub of activity, culture, food, and surfing. This surf town, which now plays the role of the area’s social, cultural, and artistic hub, is rich with history and surrounded by excellent surf spots. With many eateries in old buildings, surf shops, art galleries, and boutiques, this is a go-to area for any surfer. Beach Quality – With many ongoing projects to clean the beaches of Hawaii, it is safe to say that, for the most part, the beaches themselves get kept in good condition. However, before going to Haleiwa, it is best to see if there have been any recent storms or floods since these make the water brown sometimes. Though brown water is mainly due to rain, most advise surfers to steer clear. Wave Consistency – If you want the best surfing time at Haleiwa, the best time to visit is in January, when proper surfable and consistent waves are more likely. During January, these waves occur around 38% of the time. Surf Culture – Winter in this area is full of the hustle and bustle when it comes to surfing, with people coming from all around the world to experience the fantastic waves and rich culture. Making friends with locals is also an excellent way to learn in-depth information about where to go and what you can do if the scenery and historic buildings are not enough to satiate the culture-hungry. Cheapest Surf Towns to Live in the USA If you are a budget-conscious surfer, you may need more details to determine whether you can afford the area. Below you will find some of the cheapest surf towns in the US with important information such as the median home cost and cost of living index rating. 1. Port Isabel, Texas Based on the most recent numbers, Port Isabel in Texas is one of the most affordable surf towns in the US. Despite being one of the cheaper surf towns … Read more

The WSL: An Overview of The World Surf League

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Here in 2023, we have countless ways to consume amazing surf content, from YouTube to Stab Cinema and tapping into your favorite surf movies! Heck, even scrolling through Instagram can feel like a moving version of your favorite surf mag. There are clips and content everywhere. But watching surf competitions can be painstaking. With long lulls, lackluster waves, and questionable wave scoring, it’s no wonder surfing hasn’t become the mainstream sport everyone can relate to. However, The WSL is changing this, working hard to create a platform where competitive surfing is not only watchable but exciting and engaging. The WSL’s mission is putting (as their slogan goes) the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves. While several surf tours comprise the WSL, the overriding focus is on the Championship Tour and respective Challenger Series, where the world’s top high-performance surfers battle it out around the globe. In this post, we take a closer look at how this all works, so whether you’re new to competitive surfing or have lost track of how it works, take a seat, grab a cuppa, and let’s dive into the world of the WSL. What is The WSL? The WSL is the largest governing body for international surfing. The largest platform for professional surfers to make or launch a career as a professional surfer. Comprised of multiple tours across various surfing disciplines, the WSL is a company that broadcasts and shows surfing to the world. With events all around the globe in epic waves, the free webcasts are a spectacle, and the WSL does an amazing service to surfing. History of The WSL Back in the day, competitive surf events ran much in the same way they do today, only they were held in sub-par conditions. These early days of competitive surfing were far from what we see today. The events were held in population centers (where sponsors could push their logos in front of as many beachgoing eyeballs as possible), but waves would often be crappy. Were’ talking Virginia Beach, Huntington Beach–1-2ft slop. There were no webcasts, no airs, and sponsorship deals were minimum, if not non-existent. Eventually, surfers came together to end what was, at best, an average tour of average beach breaks. Icons like Rabbit Bartholomew from Australia were at the forefront of pushing the tour into what later became the Dream Tour, stating, “It should be the world’s best surfers, in the world’s best waves” after a series of meetings, the surfers, and the ASP came together to make a tour that was exactly that, with the addition of world-class surf spots such as Cloudbreak, Pipeline, G-Land, Snapper Rocks, the tour was transformed into the Dream Tour. These incredible waves set the foundation for some of the most iconic moments in surf history, and the best surfing the world had ever seen. As surfing progressed, world tour surfers now had a platform to showcase what they could do in real waves. Through the early noughties, professional surfing entered its heyday; sponsorship deals were big, the waves pumped, and the most influential surfers of our time battled in epic rivalries! We’re talking Andy Vs. Kelly Slater, The Hobgood twins, Mick, Parko…Ahhh, what a time! Today, the ASP has rebranded as the WSL into a multi-million dollar company, but before we dive into the tours and WSL schedule, how does the WSL work now for surfers? How Does The WSL Work? Tours The WSL comprises multiple tours. The Championship Tour (where the best surfers on earth compete for the world title), the Big Wave World Tour (where the best big wave riders compete in big wave venues when a swell is called on), the world longboard tour, and the junior series. By far, the biggest aspect of the WSL arsenal is the WCT, the championship tour, and qualifying for it is a big deal! The Tour Schedule The Championship Tour schedule is held at eleven different events in various locations. Over the years, locations have chopped and changed around due to rights issues, waves, contracts, and not mention Covid, but now as we move through 2023, the WSL looks to solidify a consistent tour schedule. Event 1: Pipeline, North Shore, Hawaii Event 2: Sunset Beach, North Shore, Hawaii Event 3: Supertubos, Peniche, Portugal Event 4: Bells Beach, Torquay, Australia *Event 5: Main Break, Margaret River, Western Australia Event 6: Surf Ranch, Leemore, California Event 7: Punta Roca, La Libertad, El Salvador Event 8: Saquarema, Rio De Janeiro, Brazil Event 9: Jeffery’s Bay, South Africa Event 10: Teahupoo, Tahiti, French Polynesia Event 11 – The WSL Final (Top 5 Only) After event 6, the tour gets cut in half after the WSL announced the return of the mid-year cut, where the lowest-ranking surfers at this stage in the season fall off the tour and are relegated to the challenger series. This leaves a condensed tour for the reaming half of the season, with only the top-performing surfs competing for the final five places. Then, the top 5 surfers do battle at Lower Trestles, a perfect a-frame in Southern California and a platform where high-performance surfing can go down! In the beys of the WSL. this is the venue to decide the World Title. This decision was met with much criticism in the surfing world as previously, the world title showdown would traditionally happen at Pipeline, in heavy barreling waves. Each contest is held over a waiting period, which ensures good waves for each event. If you’ve ever competed at a local boardriders event, you’ll know firsthand that scheduling a surf contest on a random weekend doesn’t always give you good surf. The WSl typically has 10-day event windows and only runs a competition on the best days. Ranking Regardless of the tour, surfers are allocated points based on how they finish in a competition. Then surfers are ranked in the leaderboard system, and whoever has the most points finishes at the top and either … Read more

Surfing in The Olympics: A History & Overview

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

It’s always been this way, Surfing. A sport that walks the line between sport and lifestyle, a fringe sport, or an outcast of sorts–a counter-culture. But nowadays, with multiple ways to make money through surfing, most notably through competition, surfing certainly is a sport. With big endorsement deals and solid prize money for Championship Tour athletes, surfing at the top level can be a 6-figure career. Not bad for riding waves and traveling the world, huh? However, surfing competitively is no easy feat, and it’s no coincidence the WQS (now Challenger Series) is known as the Q grind. It’s tough, and making it to the Championship Tour takes years of training, traveling, losing clutch heats, and heartbreak, not to mention tens of thousands of dollars. In recent years there’s been another dangling carrot for competitive surfers; a carrot that promises an international stage, good(ish) waves, and the chance to represent their country doing what they love at one of the biggest sporting events in the world, the Olympic Games. For the first time ever, surfing was added to the Olympics in the Tokyo 2022 games. While the waves were expectantly lackluster, Olympic surfing was an interesting watch for surf fans and the general public alike. The inaugural event took place in Chiba, just outside of Tokyo, at Shidashita Beach, whereas surfing’s next Olympic appearance will be at the 2024 France Olympics at Teahupoo, Tahiti (A french overseas territory). In this article, we dive into everything you need to know about surfing in the Olympics. We’ll cover how Olympic surfing works, how surfing became an Olympic sport, and how the qualification process works. We have a lot to get through, so let’s jump in. How Does Olympic Surfing Work? Olympic surfing works much in the same way as your favorite WSL Championship Tour event. In Man-on-man heats, the surfer’s best two waves make up an overall score out of 20, and surfers have 40 minutes to find their best rides and progress. The event is knockout and will run from Round 3 through Round 2, Quarterfinals, Semi-Finals, and eventually, a man-on-man finale where the remaining two battle it out for a coveted surfing Olympic medal. Now we know the rough competition format, let’s take a closer look at how Olympic surfing works. Contest Format The Olympic surfing contest format includes 48 surfers, 24 men and 24 women. 2 x surfers from each (NOC-country) will represent their respective nation and compete for countries that have qualified (through a separate ISA event. Confused yet? Same. Through the ISA world games, surfers can qualify their country for the games, regardless of individual performance. (Nation’s must also qualify). Scoring So how is surfing scored in the games? Olympic surfing will be scored with the traditional surf contest criteria, with waves marked on a combination of: Speed, power, and flow Commitment and degree of difficulty Combination of major maneuvers Variety All WSL contests are judged based on these criteria, and so too will the Olympics. However, emphasis is put on different aspects of the criteria depending on the location and conditions. Whatever the criteria emphasis, surfers will be scored on their best two waves within a 40-minute man-on-man heat, and the closer their total to twenty, the better their chances of advancing. Conditions In the Tokyo Olympics, the contest was held at Shidshita Beach. An average stretch of beach at the best of times, let alone in mid-summer when the games were held. Waves were 1-2ft, onshore mush burgers for most of the contest before concluding on finals day in 4ft stormy but still extremely mushy conditions. (It was basically like an oversized weak Huntington). Due to the conditions, waves were scored on moves like airs, speed, power, and flow. However, things will ramp up in France 2024 with the event being held at the famous Teahupoo. Teahupoo is a perfect left barrel, hollow and heavy, and should conditions provide, waves will be scored on barrel riding as it’s traditionally a barrel-only type wave. (Fingers crossed for good waves). While epic surf isn’t guaranteed whenever a set date is in place, the planned event dates (27-30 July) are slap bang in the middle of Chope’s swell window. Most Recent Olympic Surfing Results The first-ever Olympic surfing event occurred in 2021 as part of the Tokyo 2020 (postponed initially due to Covid) at Shidashita Beach. Although the conditions and subsequent waves were 1-2ft slop at best, the event was intriguing to watch. I thought the broadcasting was excellent, with a commentary team of both surfers and non-surfers. This allowed non-surfing viewers to learn and understand what makes a well-surfed wave, and for surfers, it was great to listen to people who actually knew what they were talking about. It was also epic to see top pros mix it up with lesser-known names representing their country! There were some interesting battles, with Gabriel Media being knocked out by Japanese surfer Kanoa Igarashi, who went on to lose in the final against another Brazilian surfing superstar, Italo Ferreira–who took out surfing’s first-ever gold medal match. These were surfing’s medal placings in Tokyo 2020: 1st – Italo Ferrieria (Brazil) 2nd – Kanoa Igarashi (Japan) 3rd – Owen Wright (Australia) While the inaugural event was met with skepticism in the surfing world for me, I thoroughly enjoyed watching the surfers I know and love from the WSL compete on such a huge world stage. I regard any opportunity to see the best guys and gals surf (whatever the cosnitons) as a positive. Qualifying for the Olympics (Process & Requirements) Qualifying for the Olympics is a little complex, but I’ll try and explain it as simply as possible. In Short, the highest-ranked surfers from the WSL and ISA games events will qualify. To determine a fair way of deciding who competes, the WSL, ISA, and Olympic Committee comprised a hierarchical event structure. The Championship Tour The world’s best surfers competing on the WSL CT, will have first … Read more

Reef Rash: A Comprehensive Guide

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

There’s a picture-perfect blue wave peeling lushly into a channel. A Perfect hollow barrel with an easy exit and roll-in entry–the easiest wave you’ll ever surf. The sun’s beaming, the water is bathtub-like, and there’s no one else in sight. It’s the stuff of dreams, right? If you’ve been lucky enough to sample the waves of the Mentawais or the Maldives, you’ll know this scene is a daily occurrence. I mean, it’s why you go! However, not everything is as it seems. What many people don’t tell you about some of the world’s best waves is they all break over sharp shallow reefs. Most tropical surf spots break over razor-sharp coral, and if you’ve ever dived on these reefs on flat days or been lucky enough to come into contact with one after a wipeout, you’ll know first-hand just how sharp and nasty they are. It’s a danger most surfers are pretty blase about. But falling can lead to serious injury, laceration, or reef rash. In this article, we dive into the annoying world and trip hindrance that is reef rash. From what it is and its symptoms to what you can do about it. I’ve written this post to give you confidence on your next surf trip and show you that reef rash doesn’t mean your trip is over. We have a bit to uncover, so let’s dive in. What is Reef Rash? Reef rash is the slang term given to a surfer who falls and cuts themselves on a reef. Typically, these types of injuries will appear as either a laceration or graze. They often look worse than they are if there’s lots of blood, and it can be so bad that medical treatment (stitches) is required. Coral is sharp and contact with it can break coral heads and mean you not only have a cut, but tiny pieces of coral implanted into you, which in somewhere like remote Indonesia is a recipe for infection. This is reef rash; if you’ve ever been on a trip and experienced it, you’ll know it can make you uncomfortable, itchy, in pain, and even out of the water. So how can you prevent reef rashes in the first place? How to Prevent Reef Rash? The best and easiest way to prevent reef rash is not to surf shallow reef breaks. Duh? Or, like me, spend your entire ten-day Mentawai trip terrified of the reef sitting wide in the channel. But you don’t want to do this. You want to catch amazing waves and maybe the barrel of your life. When surfing shallow reefs, there’s always the risk of hitting the reef and getting rashed up. Reef Boots The most common area to get reef rash and cuts are the feet. Whether from walking across the reef or getting in from a break to fumbling around and getting your board back after a wave, the feet cop the brunt of it when it comes to contact with sharp reef. Thankfully, you can purchase a pair of reef boots. These are super thin wetsuit boots that protect your feet from the reef. It’s the best way to prevent most reef cuts! I’ve never worn reef boots because I come from England and refuse to put on any sort of wetsuit-related bootie in the topics; after all, it’s what I go to Indo to escape, so I just get cut–stupid! Helmet A helmet is great for more serious waves, such as shallow, hollow reef passes. The Gath helmet has seen a resurgence in recent years in lineups worldwide after Owen Wright took out the Chopes WCT wearing one. It’s strange that, as surfers, most of us don’t wear helmets even when surfing waves of consequence; you wouldn’t see a skateboarder without a helmet launching massive airs in a half pipe, would you? So a helmet might not prevent reef rash, but it can protect you against more serious and life-threatening injuries on shallow reefs. Rash Vest The clues in the name. A wetsuit top (2mm) can help prevent reef rash. Let’s say you fall and scrape your back against the bottom, bareback this would result in long grazes and reef rash all down your back. But by wearing just a thin wetsuit top, you project yourself, even just a little bit, from this risk. While a wettie top might not protect you entirely, it also serves as excellent sun protection, and if it’s a bit windy or raining, even in the tropics, I get cold, which helps with that too! Symptoms of Reef Rash Other than bleeding and stinging, some of the reef rash symptoms may include: Aching Firey feeling Redness Soreness Itching Mainly it will sting a lot and be annoying, but if symptoms persist, it could mean you have an infection (look for a reddening area around the cut), which will need antibiotics. How to Treat Reef Rash? If you’ve already had a fall and copped a bit of reef rash, don’t stress. There are a few ways you can treat it and prevent infection straight off the bat. Please note that for severe lacerations and cuts, you’ll need medical attention and may need stitching. But for minor scratches and grazes, the following remedies can work wonders. Lime – Any surf camp in the tropics will have a few limes knocking about, and this is the traditional budget surf travelers’ reef rash remedy. And yes, it works–well! Grab a lime and squeeze and rub it into the rashed area. The acidity in the lime will help clean and disinfect bacteria from the reef. Yes, it does hurt like hell, and yes, you might scream. But it’s super effective. Betadine – Betadine is not available in all counties (I can’t get it over the counter in the UK), but if you’re in Bali or coming from Australia, you can buy s small tub of betadine for less than $10 at your local chemist. It’s a brown disinfectant liquid that stops bacteria, and … Read more

Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

When you begin a new sport, such as surfing, you must learn the basics. The basics of any sport allow the athlete to grow in confidence and master more advanced tricks in the future. So, before you focus on the gnarliest tricks done by professional surfers, focus on getting the basics right. The best surfing tricks for beginners include the pop-up, the bottom turn, and the cutback, and these tricks, when practiced repeatedly, will lead the surfer to be able to do more advanced tricks. The best intermediate surfing tricks for beginners include the top turn, floater, and off-the-lip. In the article below, we will dissect the best tricks for beginner/intermediate surfers and provide a step-by-step guide on executing them. The best thing about starting with the best basic tricks for beginner surfers is finding a certain flow to your surfing. Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners: A Guide to Getting Started Technically speaking, before you focus on any of the best surfing tricks for beginners listed in the article, the first and one of the most important tricks to master is paddling. You will struggle to get in the best positions to perform the various surfing tricks without a good paddling technique. Surfing is a water sport where a surfer uses a board to ride the face (forward section) of a moving wave toward the shore. The surfer must employ a variety of basic tricks and proper techniques to successfully surf a wave and evolve into the best water athlete possible. Here’s a list of the key basic surfing tricks for beginners, and if you’re new to the sport of surfing, it’s highly suggested that you master them first: Basic Surfing Tricks for Beginners: The Pop-Up One of the most fundamental tricks of surfing is called the pop-up. The maneuver gets you from lying to standing; ultimately, you can’t surf if you can’t perform a pop-up, as you need to be on your feet when surfing. Think of the pop-up as a single-motion push-up that is both explosive and fluid simultaneously. Try the following steps when practicing the pop-up. Step 1: Positioning Your Body on the Surfboard The correct body positioning on the board is vital when performing a pop-up. Ideally, you want to lay in the sweet spot of your board, not too far forward and not too far back. Balancing in the middle of your board, called the sweet spot, makes paddling more efficient, resulting in good speed and maneuverability while out on the water. Lying too far back will result in too much weight on the tail, slowing the board down and counterproductive to planning. Lying too far to the front of the board will result in more planning speed and forward momentum, but the chances of nosediving increase. Before you perform a pop-up, lie on your stomach with your feet together (toes pointing towards the back of the board) and your hands on the surfboard close to your shoulders. Step 2: Find the Right Position in the Water Moving around and positioning yourself in the water is a required skill when you want to catch a wave. Scan the horizon for the right wave and paddle towards it to position yourself in the right position. Start paddling to shore to ride the wave when it reaches you and lifts you. Step 3: Push Your Body Up and Pop Up by Sliding Your Feet When you’re on the wave (wait for the lift), you must push your body up by using your core muscles, hands, and arms and sliding your feet forward. The aim is to land on your feet in the stance you have practiced on dry land. Swing both legs under you when pushing your body up. Your front foot must be near the board’s center, and your back foot should be near the tail. Your knees must be bent, and your weight distribution should be centered over the board for the best balance. If everything goes swimmingly, you should manage to surf the wave. Pat yourself on your back as you have performed what surfers call the pop-up. Helpful Hint – Practice your pop-up technique on dry land until your body learns and stores the memory in muscles. The more comfortable you become on land and regarding technique, the better your pop-up will feel when doing it in the water. Here is a helpful video if you’re struggling with your pop-up technique. Basic Surfing Tricks For Beginners: The Bottom Turn When you can perform the pop-up, a new set of beginner tricks must be mastered. One of these is called the bottom turn. The bottom turn is used to control your ride down the line in a smooth and effective manner. Step 1: Move Down the Wave Surfing involves moving to different parts of the wave to maximize the ride. After you pop up, the next thing to do is to ride the wave. As you go down the wave, your body should be in a crouch position. Make sure to focus on the spot of the wave where you want to go and use your extended arms for balance. Step 2: Keep Your Weight on Your Back Foot When reaching the bottom part of the wave, the aim is to keep your weight on your back foot, as you will need to launch the board into a pivotal turn and redirect it towards the face of the wave. Step 3: Launch the Board Up the Face of the Wave When you reach the bottom area of the wave, weight on the back foot, you need to push the tail of the surfboard down, turning it up to face the face of the wave. Keep your arms extended for balance, with your knees slightly bent, focused on where you want to go. The bottom turn sets you up to successfully ride down the line and rejoin the wave in surfable areas. Here is an excellent video on perfecting the bottom turn featuring Patrick … Read more

Mikey Wright: Australia’s Favorite Surfing Son

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Few surfers combine such an out-there personality and surfing style as Mikey Wright. Embodying the true Aussie spirit, Mikey lives life in the fast lane–in and out of the water. In a sport so professional and clean-cut, the young Aussie is a refreshing antidote. An antidote that brings surfing back to its raw uncut roots. In this post, we dive into the life of the youngest Wright sibling, born into an Australian surf royalty in NSW. We’ll dive into how Mikey got started with surfing, his competitive and free surfing career, as well as Mikey’s unique style and personality. He’s been up to a lot in the past few years, so let’s get down to it. Mikey Wright: Upbringing Mikey Wright was born in Culburra, NSW, Australia—a small surf town south of Sydney, where Mikey was the youngest of four siblings. The Wrights are a renowned Australian surfing family and one of the most successful surf families ever. Tyler, Mikey’s older sister, is a veteran on the CT and 2 x women’s world champion, while Owen, his older brother (now retired), has been a top 10 feature on the CT for the past decade. Yep, Mikey had a lot to live up to as a grom! His older siblings paved the way for young Milkey, feeding him into a lifestyle of all things surf. The family traveled up and down the East coast of Australia in a bus, competing in junior/QS contests and surfing their brains out. This out-the-ordinary upbringing set the foundations for how Mikey surfs today. Young Mikey was picked up by Quiksilver at a young age and shared the up-and-coming grom spotlight with now big-name surfers such as Jack Robinson, Leo Firovanti, and Kanoa Igarashi. Before chasing the CT, Mikey was already a notorious free surfer, gaining media and social traction for his show-stopping video edits. If you haven’t seen Mikey’s videos like Root and Rage, I recommend checking them out! Mikey now resides on the Gold Coast in Queensland and has succeeded in and out of the jersey. Mikey Wright’s Career As a junior, Milkey was successful in competition, taking out multiple junior events, which fed him into the WQS. After chasing waves and seemingly pursuing a career in free surfing, Mikey qualified for the Championship Tour in 2018. (Note – Mikey appeared as a wildcard in a handful of CT events beforehand). But Mikey’s induction to the Championship Tour was challenging. After sustaining a back injury while surfing in the WQS event at Pipeline in February, Mikey surfed the entire year nursing an injury–without telling anyone! Mikey pushed through the year with true Aussie grit and did what he needed to ensure requalification. He then pulled out of the remaining season to rest and recuperate for the following year. In 2019, Mikey secured a 12th-place season finish after a 3rd at Uluwatu/Margaret River Pro and Keramas CT events. With back problems still lingering, the 2020 tour was canceled anyway due to Covid, and we wouldn’t see professional surfing gain until 2021! For surfing’s return, the season wildcard was decided in a surf-off between Mikey and Leo Firovanti, who both had solid cases to be awarded the injury wildcard. Mikey lost to Leo in a Pipeline “surf-off” but still competed in many events as an injury replacement. In a condensed tour in 2021, due to many covid restrictions, Mikey completed the entire year before deciding to quit the tour to pursue his free surfing entirely. While Mikey was by no means a slouch on the competitive scene, he will be remembered for the intensity of his free surfing. A Unique Style & Personality In a sport that’s so clean, professional, and, let’s face it, a tad boring at times, Mikey’s raw approach, unique style, and personality are a refreshing touch to pro surfing and make the young Aussie stand out. Mikey loves all things Australia, spending his time camping, fishing, and 4WD’’ing in the bush. A fast-paced lifestyle that translates well into the water. With his famous mullet and beard, Mikey wouldn’t look out of place as a Gold Coast tradie but chuck him in the water, and he blows everyone else out of it. When you watch Mikey surf, you never really know what will happen. He charges in serious waves and surfs big waves like me, and you try and surf our 2ft local. Big barrels, smooth carves, and giant airs make up much of his surf edits–he is truly one of the best and most exciting surfers to watch ever. Tap into some Mikey content archives here. Sponsors, Achievements & Net Worth As you’d expect for such a prolific surfing figure, Mikey has gained solid sponsorships and been the face of Quiksilver since the launch of their “Stay High” campaign; a doth of the cap to surfing’s go hard or go home roots. With some high-place finishes in competition and stupidly good free surf edits, Mikey has amassed an estimated net worth of $5 million and represents everything it is to be a top Australian surfer. When Mikey surfs, people watch, which makes him so valuable, in the jersey or otherwise. Final Words While we don’t see Mikey surf as much as we’d like (his career has been plagued by injury, and he’s no longer on the CT), when Mikey posts clips, everyone stops to watch, and that’s how it is. If you’re a fan of big barrels, massive open-face carves, and ridiculously high airs, Mikey is up there with the best in the world. I don’t know the future of Milkey’s surfing, But I do know that when a clip crops up on the social feed, I stop whatever I’m doing and watch, and you should too! Luke MorrisLuke is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy and passion of surfing and water sports with enthusiasts around the world. With a deep-rooted love for the ocean and a lifelong commitment … Read more

Uluwatu vs Canggu: Best Bali Surf Destinations

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Bali has been well-established as one of the best surf destinations in the world for decades. A place of good times, good waves, and cheap livin’. While nowadays the island of the gods has lost some of its charm and allure due to its rise in popularity, rapid overdevelopment, and the subsequent hoards, the waves remain the same. The amazing reef breaks around Uluwatu and the beginner-friendly beachies in Canggu are the same today as in the 70s. However, navigating the island is tricky. With so many surf spots to choose from, countless accommodations, and several intricacies that make up a successful trip, it’s a headache. Thankfully, I’ve created this post to narrow things down. Narrow things down so that you’ll know whether Uluwatu or Canggu is right for you. Only the sprawling metropolis of Kuta separates these two iconic surf towns, but each has its characteristics, positive and negative. There is heaps to unpack from each of these Balinese icons. So let’s dive into Uluwatu Vs. Canggu. Uluwatu Overview Perched upon the cliffs on the Bukit Peninsula, Uluwatu is one of Bali’s top breaks and one of Indonesia’s most famous. It’s the very wave that drew surfers from across the globe to visit the island and put Indonesian surfing on their map. On a typical day, the wave is a long peeling left-hander. We’re talking about perfect blue walls reeling endlessly beneath the iconic limestone cliff. With wicked bars, restaurants, and cafes overlooking the waves, Ulu’s is a must-visit Balinese surf destination. Canggu Overview Further North you have Canggu, a thriving surf travel and backpacker favorite which seems to be endlessly expanding. Seriously, every time I go back there, I’m shocked at how much bigger and more developed the place gets. Crazy development aside, Canggu has sick fun waves, from the beginner-friendly rollers at Old Mans to the punchy beach break peaks of Echo Beach, there’s something for everyone. The town is also alive with more shops, bars, and restaurants than you could ever hope to visit in a lifetime trip of trips, let alone one. Uluwatu Vs. Canggu The Waves In Uluwatu, the break is exposed, meaning the place receives tons of swell. The wave itself can be fast, hollow, and powerful, and at low tide, breaks perilously close to the coral below. Throw in the infamous cave paddle out, sharp reef, and crowd factor and you have an intimidating spot for first-timers. Uluwatu breaks anywhere from 2-20ft, and when it’s in the 4-6ft range is a perfect left with multiple sections. Temples at the tops, then the peak, and finally racetracks at then; a lock and loaded freight train barrel speeding over near dry reef. At 20ft the wave transforms into a premier big wave spot where only those with an 8ft gun can take it on. For a beginner on a small day, check out Padang Padang (so good they named it twice) and Dreamlands Beach. Canggu on the other hand, while still super consistent, is nowhere near as exposed and or powerful as its Bukit counterpart. There is a handful of breaks scattered around the Canggu area that suit different abilities. If you’re a beginner or intermediate I’d suggest Old Mans, which is a mellow, series of peaks where fat lines of whitewater roll lazily into shore. Echo Beach, 2 minutes further north, is a stretch of beach more suited to advanced surfers. At one end you have a hollow left-hand reef, and at the other, a long right-hand point. Oh, and there’s a stupidly fun wedgy beachie between the two. The crowds can be insane, so don’t expect to score it by yourself. Tip – On the odd occasion (I think after a huge party night in) you can score relatively uncrowded waves to yourself. Don’t tell anyone your game plan though! The Accommodation In both towns, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodation. Personally, I find Canggu (due to its ever-expanding size) to have more options. From budget backpacker hostels to luxury Airbnb’s, the “Gu” has everything. Uluwatu also has plenty of options, less than Canggu, but for me, anywhere you stay in Bali you can pick and choose your budget, amenities, and location and book whatever you want. Note – During peak season April-October is crazy busy in Bali and many accommodations book out well in advance. The Vibe Canggu is a bustling hub of madness and the vibe is super lively, no matter which day of the week. Each bar in town has its party night, so the place can feel like a never-ending vortex of partying and hecticness. However, Uluwatu, while you can still get a taste of a similar vibe at sunset on the cliff tops, Ulu’s is more spread out and you can find a little more peace. The Amenities Both spots have an abundance of things to do, most notably the hundreds of bars, restaurants, cafes, workplaces, gyms, and interesting cultural sites. Seriously, it’s crazy! If you’re looking to stay, live and work in the tropics, you’ll be hard-pushed to find somewhere better on Earth. Additionally, there are some other epic things to check out. In Ulus, check out Uluwatu Temple at Sunset, just watch out for the monkeys, they’ll steal your sunnies and iPhone. And no I’m not joking and yes it’s happened to me before! Thing to do Canggu Surfing school: Hit the waves at spots like Echo Beach or Batu Bolong Beach. Mount Batur Sunrise Hike: Watch the Mount Batur volcano sunrise which is the best and most popular sunrise in Bali. Explore the Rice Terraces, Monkey Forest and Waterfall: Take a leisurely stroll or bike ride through the lush green rice terraces for a serene and picturesque experience. Visit Tanah Lot Temple: This iconic sea temple is a short drive away from Canggu and offers stunning sunset views over the ocean. Yoga and Wellness: Canggu is home to numerous yoga studios and wellness centers where you can … Read more

Julian Wilson: The Life and Career of a Legendary Pro Surfer

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Julian Wilson is one of the most stylish surfers ever, a surfer who combines perfect technique and flow with modern progression. An elite surfer for the past two decades and one of the best to watch, and although he never pinched a world title (damn it, Medina), Julian was a regular top 10 feature on the CT. With stand-out performances at the heaviest tour stops, Julian showed prowess in waves of consequence to back his high-performance surfing. Throw in his show-stopping movie parts, and you have one of the best and most influential surfers ever. Julian’s surfing will stand the test of time and in this post, we dive into the life of Julian. From his upbringing and early rise to fame to how he secured one of the biggest sponsorship deals in surfing. We’ll also check out why Julian retired and what he’s up to now in and out of the water. It’s been an illustrious career, which means we have a lot to get through. Let’s get down to it. Julian Wilson’s Early Life & Rise to Fame Julian had what most would consider the perfect surfing upbringing. Born and raised in Coolum Beach, Queensland, Jualin grew up around a family of keen surfers and what can only be described as the perfect environment for a budding surfer. Warm water year-round, a scattering of fun beach breaks, and Noosa’s dreamy point break just a short drive up the coast–a combination that would pave the way for young Julian. At a super young age, Wilson drew the eyes of sponsorships after competing in regional and national events as a grom and wowing with progressive surfing and a style well beyond his years. Julian would enter all categories in these events, taking out the longboard category, smashing the junior division, and well in the men’s as well. Wilson joined Quiksilver at a super young age and became the face of the brand alongside Kelly Slater, Jeremy Flores, and Freddy Pattachia. After a successful junior career and incredible free surfing, Jules was getting traction from around the world. Spending more and more time away from school; surfing on boat trips alongside his heroes and competing on the WQS, Julian reached his destiny, the World Championship Tour. However, after qualifying, Julian decided to take a year off to film his signature movie “Julian Wilson: Scratching the Surface”. Which, if you haven’t seen it, I’d drop what you’re doing, and check it out now. Julian, confident he would qualify after a year off, went back on the WQS and did exactly that. Julain’s Career, Highlights & Achievements Wilson spent the best part of two decades as a regular fixture in the top 10 on the Championship Tour. After filming his hit movie, Julian went all in and hard into the competitive scene. He finished 9th in his first year; winning the coveted Rookie of the Year award with solid performances at major world tour locations. In 2012, he backed up his first year, showing everyone that his first year at the highest level wasn’t a fluke and that he was there to stay–making a real charge for the title. He finished 9th again in 2012 and took out the Rip Curl Pro Portugal as his maiden event win. In 2014, Julian won one of the hardest and most prestigious events to win on the entire CT roster–The Billabong Pipe Masters. Julian impressed everyone with a fearless performance at heavy first reef Pipeline, not that he needed to prove anything in big surf after some incredible tow waves at the Teahupoo Code Red swell the year previous. After surfing for Quicksilver for a decade, Julain was offered a huge contract from Nike, after the sports brand entered surfing and Julian was treated like a true sports star, up there with Tiger Woods and the top basketballers of the time. You can watch more about one of the biggest contracts in surfing, in Stab Magazine’s How Surfers Get Paid). It’s an epic watch! Julian took out The Triple Crown of surfing in 2014, the Billabong Pro Teahupoo in 2017, the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast in 2018, and the Quiksilver Pro France in 2018. What a year! Unfortunately, he was pipped to the post by Gabriel Medina for the world title in 2018. After a competitive break due to Covid in 2020, Julian represented Australia at the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 (2021) but again lost to Brazilian Medina, in round 3 of the men’s shortboard event. Julian then retired after the Olympics, aged 33. The decision came as somewhat of a shock to some, but Julian stated the decision was to pursue a life outside of surfing, spend time with his family, and a decision that made him, quote; “The happiest I’ve ever been.” Julian Wilson’s Personal Life & Interests Julain is a strong advocate for breast cancer as his mom overcame the disease and Julain stands alongside fellow Australian Jackson Baker as an advocate. Often riding pink boards and wearing pink boardshorts to raise awareness. He is also strongly behind a number of environmental causes helping to protect the coast around Australia and the world. Julian also loves cricket, skateboarding, and dirt biking! Wilson is married to model Ahsley Osborne, and the pair have two young daughters. After retiring and spending more time with his girls, Julian started the surf and lifestyle brand Rivvia project, to create “surf gear that I actually feel comfortable in when performing. Today & The Future of Julian Wilson It’s no doubt that Julain is and has been one of the most influential surfers of our time. An Australian great with CT event wins and movie sports to back it. While we don’t see Julain surf as much as we used to, we can still delve into the archives and check out movies like Lost Atlas and Scartching the Surfcae, hen surfing was very much at its peak financially and in my option, movie production-wise. Luke MorrisLuke is an avid … Read more

Surf Wetsuit Temperature Guide | Staying Warm

June 2, 2023by Luke Morris

Surf Wetsuit Water Temperature Guide | Staying Warm

Surfing is not just a sport; it’s a lifestyle. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting, understanding how to maintain the ideal temperature while riding the waves is crucial for an enjoyable experience. And if there’s one thing that keeps surfers, swimmers, and water lovers alike stay in the waters for too long, it is the right wetsuit. But, with the many different types of wetsuits our surf industry has, it can be confusing to pick the right one. More often than not, wetsuits become a compromise between staying warm and comfortable and feeling flexible. This wetsuit water temperature guide will help you decipher the wetsuit thickness code and find the right water apparel according to your local water temperatures. How Do Wetsuits Work? Wetsuits work by entrapping a thin layer of water between your body and the suit. This layer of water gets warmed by your body. Thus, keeping you from losing too much heat while in the water. What traps the heat –neoprene insulation particularly made for warmth and protection in watersports. Neoprene is made of small closed cells packed and sealed with air that provide insulation against cold water by trapping heat in. Generally, the thicker the wetsuit’s neoprene is, the warmer the suit as it has more heat-trapping insulation. Wetsuit Water Temperature Guide In sports like surfing, you spend most of your time in the water. You wait for potential waves, paddle to it, and surf. Consequently, it makes you less exposed to the wind and outside water temperature, unlike kitesurfing, wakeboarding, or windsurfing. Most wetsuits indeed come with the manufacturer’s temperature ratings. However, it isn’t always the most accurate. So, the best way to deal with it is to consider the manufacturer’s marks and these few factors. Water Temperature Water temperature is merely just the start. Aside from it, you will have to consider air temperature. Some climates may have the air temperature relatively warm with cold water. Usually, if the air is warmer, you can go for a thinner wetsuit than what’s typically recommended. Wind should also be factored in since it significantly changes the water and airy feel. Lastly, consider the activity you will perform and your cold sensitivity. Colder Water Calls for Thicker Wetsuit Neoprene provides a good layer of insulation from different weather elements. So, the thicker the wetsuit, the more protected you get. Hooded wetsuits can also be a great option in very cold water, along with neoprene surf booties. Cold water can be very threatening to your health if you are not prepared for the elements. Quality of the Wetsuit A big part of picking the right wetsuit for any water temperature is the suit’s quality. High-quality wetsuits are usually double-stitched, taped, sealed, or liquid-sealed. This construction makes it harder for the low temperature to penetrate. Water Temperature Wetsuit Thickness Wetsuit Type Destination Extras < 42 °F / 5.5 °C 6/5 mm – 6/5/4 mm Hooded Full Wetsuit Greenland Rashguard, booties, wetsuit hood, wetsuit gloves 43-52 °F / 6.1-11.1 °C 5/4 mm – 5/4/3 mm Hooded Full Wetsuit England, Netherlands (in winter) Rashguard, booties, wetsuit hood, wetsuit gloves 52-58 °F / 11.1-14.4 °C 4/3 mm – 5/4/3 mm Hooded Full Wetsuit San Francisco, Cape Town (in winter) Warm Rashguard, booties, wetsuit gloves 58-63 °F / 14.4-17.2 °C 3/2 mm – 4/3 mm Full Wetsuit Tarifa, Spain Neoprene Top 62-68 °F / 16.6-20°C 2 mm – 3/2 mm Spring Wetsuit / Full Wetsuit Mediterranean (in Mid Season), California, Gulf of Mexico, Cape Town (in summer) Neoprene Top 65-75 °F / 18.3-23.8°C 0.5 mm – 2/1 mm Short Arm Steamer / Wetsuit Jacket Mediterranean Sea (in summer), Florida (except summer) n/a > 72 °F / 22.2°C n/a Rashguard Bali, Sri Lanka, Hawaii, Philippines, Brazil, North Carolina (in summer) Rashguard, waterproof sunscreen How Should a Wetsuit Fit? Your wetsuit should act as your second skin. It should be snug with no sagging in the back or excessive bunching in certain spots like the arms or legs. Wetsuits are supposed to fit tight to keep only a thin layer of water between your body and your suit. If your suit is loose, water will flood and flush through, making the suit less effective at keeping you warm. Moreover, your wetsuit should also fit snugly around your neck. This fitting around your neck may cause a rash, so be sure to protect yourself with a rash guard underneath. How Long Can a Person Survive in Cold Water Without Wetsuits? The coldest water you can find is usually within 39 to 41 degrees F. This is before it turns into ice. Typically, a person can endure in such water temperature for about 10 to 20 minutes. This is how long it takes for the body temperature to drop to 70 to 80 degrees F. When the body reaches this dangerously low temperature, cardiac arrest may most likely happen. Even before the heart stops, the muscles get weak, and it loses coordination and strength. One of the most common misconceptions is that vigorous swimming helps keep the body warm in cold water. This is not true. Swimming in cold water will not keep you warm. Sure, you will feel your blood rushing to the skin. In reality, it makes you lose more heat by swimming. Water Temperature and Expected Time of Survival Chart Water Temperature Expected Time Before Unconsciousness Expected Time of Survival 32.5°F / 0.3°C < 15 minutes 45 minutes 32.5–40° F / 0.3–4.4° C 15 to 30 minutes 30 to 90 minutes 40–50° F / 3.3–10° C 30 to 60 minutes 1 to 3 hours 50–60°F / 10–15.6°C 1 to 2 hours 1 to 6 hours 60–70°F / 15.6–21.1°C 2 to 7 hours 2 to 40 hours 70–80°F / 21.1–26.7°C 3 – 12 hours 3 hours to indefinitely > 80°F / > 26.7°C Indefinitely Indefinitely Additional Tips for Staying Warm and Comfortable Proper Fit: Ensure your wetsuit fits snugly but allows for freedom of movement. A loose wetsuit will let water in, … Read more

Can Longboards Surf Big Waves?

June 1, 2023by Luke Morris

The global prevalence of longboards has exploded over the previous decade, mainly due to their practicality, functionality, and ease of use when surfing over slower and smaller waves. Modern longboards are typically wider, longer, heavier, and more cumbersome than traditional shortboards. Longboards can technically be used to surf big waves, but it is not recommended. While longboards can be used for surfing big waves, their lengthy, functional, and passive design makes them difficult to maneuver, increasing the chance of severe injury. Longboards are intended to function optimally when traversing smaller, slower waves found in calmer waters. are an inexperienced surfer or longboarder, experts recommend using one of the traditional shorter surfboards when surfing big, fast, and powerful waves. However, you can safely use your longboard to surf bigger waves in an unexpected emergency. To guarantee your safety and enjoyment, it is vital to use the correct equipment when surfing, as this article will detail. Are Longboards Practical For Surfing Big Waves? Longboards are not practical for surfing bigger, faster, and more powerful waves as they were originally designed to operate effortlessly in slower, smaller, and less forceful waves. While longboards can occasionally handle bigger waves, modern iterations were not intended to continuously traverse the power, speed, or gradient associated with larger waves. However, longboards measuring between nine and ten feet in length can be utilized by experienced surfers to surf in big wave conditions, although this is not recommended for their inexperienced counterparts. It is said that with the correct equipment and technique, longboards can be an optimal tool to handle some of the largest and most powerful waves imaginable. At the same time, before you attempt to surf big, fast, and powerful waves with a longboard, there are several important considerations to initially account for. It is incredibly challenging to duck under waves, paddle out, and glide down steep inclines using a traditional longboard. In addition, you must master the fundamentals of big wave and nose-ride surfing before attempting to take your longboard out into larger, more powerful waters. It is worthwhile noting that modern longboards function optimally in waves of between one and four feet. Most operational longboards can be found in locations such as Hawaii and California, with their notable lull between more forceful swells being ideal. Since longboards have more volume, are longer, and are significantly heavier compared to shorter surfboards, they offer users unparalleled stability and forgiveness in calmer waters. Moreover, longboards are usually easier to operate and become accustomed to, making it perfect for inexperienced people to learn how to surf. Are Longboards Or Shortboards Better For Big Wave Surfing? Short surfboards are the better option for most people concerning big-wave surfing as they offer significantly enhanced control, maneuverability, and agility compared to modern longboards. Traditionally, shorter surfboards are manufactured in a narrower, more streamlined, and shorter shape. The designs typically associated with shortboards enable them to maneuver instantly in any direction, ideal for having as much control as possible during critical moments while surfing big, steep, and powerful waves. At the same time, big-wave surfers prefer highly specialized surfboards known as tow boards or gun boards. Generally, these surfboards are considered shortboards as their unique shaping allows them to handle the unmatched intense forces associated with rapidly moving big waves. It should be noted that while shortboards are usually preferred when surfing bigger, faster waves, longboards can be utilized if necessary. Despite being impractical for high-velocity big-wave surfing, longboards can technically handle big waves if utilized correctly by an experienced surfer. Additionally, the likelihood of experiencing severe injury while big wave surfing is significantly increased when using longboards. Longboards are not considered unsafe; however, they are substantially more difficult to maneuver quickly, which makes control at crucial moments during the big wave surfing near impossible for most surfers. While shortboards are accepted as being more practical regarding big-wave surfing, the ultimate decision should be taken per your current surfing skill level, confidence, and state of mind. Taking risks during big-wave surfing can quickly lead to unnecessary disasters, severe injury, and even death. Tips For Using A Longboard To Surf Big Waves Safety is the most important aspect of using a longboard to surf big waves. The sheer size, weight, and volume associated with modern longboards make them hazardous projectiles for inexperienced surfers. There are numerous tips for using a longboard to surf big waves, depending on your skill and experience levels. However, there are five fundamental aspects every longboard surfer should remember while attempting to catch big, powerful, and fast waves: Remember to wear a certified, high-quality leash, which is commonly thought of as the most vital piece of safety equipment for kite surfers while on the waves. Always maintain an appropriate distance from any crowded peaks or fellow swimmers, as the volume, weight, and length associated with modern longboards render them a significant safety risk. Maintain perfect situational awareness while watching your back to ensure the safety of surrounding surfers. Give preference to shortboard surfers when big waves are hard to come by. You should never kick out in a flashy, stylish, or reckless manner, as the longboard’s weight could easily cause severe injury or even death. While catching and riding big waves using a longboard is more challenging, it is possible with relatively little practice. When using a longboard to ride big and powerful waves, it is vital to catch the wave as early as possible before it breaks. If the wave breaks while attempting to catch it, you will be thrown over the front, as longboards cannot safely surf down steep wave faces. Catching big waves early, maintaining a knee-bent position, and staying relaxed is the best approach when using longboards, as they will allow you to pinpoint the optimal portion of the board for your feet to be placed for enhanced maneuverability. Once you are comfortable catching larger, steeper, and more powerful waves, you can implement the drop knee technique, cross-stepping, and riding the nose to make … Read more

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