Luke Morris

Teahupo’s History and Surf Break | Behind the Wave

December 28, 2021by Luke Morris

Teahupo (spelled as Teahupo’o and pronounced Chop-pu) is one of the world’s mightiest waves. Teahupo, a small and tranquil community, nestled on the southwest corner of Tahiti’s smaller dormant volcano, Tahiti Iti, has kept much of its traditional culture. The waves of Teahupo have a unique combination of size, force, and speed, which is made even more deadly because they break over a steep coral reef only meters beneath the surface. We can add sharks, capsizing boats, and the ability to pull your pants down to those scary possibilities. Still, year by year, the world’s best surfers head to this surfing destination for pro competitions. Let’s take a look at Teahupo’s History and Surf Break and find out why it’s terrifying and exciting at the same time. Teahupo’s History Freshwater ruined the reef hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago when it flowed down from the mountains behind Teahupo’o, producing what is today known as Passe Havea, the point where the paved road stops in town and dirt roads begin. Teahupo’o is now known as “The End of the Road” because of this. As the ocean swell bends and races along the reef, the monstrous wave takes on its dramatic shape and pitch as it leaves a gently sloping bottom and is hurled towards a dry reef. To avoid being launched, a surfer must take off under the lip to successfully surf a wave at Teahupo’o. That’s how close it comes to colliding with the live coral below. The Late 1900s When the surge of waves rolled in each year, Teahupo’o residents witnessed this monster build outside their homes – but no one thought of trying to surf it until the late 1900s. Then, in 1985, Thierry Vernaudon, a Tahitian, and a few other locals embarked on a 15-minute paddle out and surfed Teahupo’o’s Surf Break for the first time. The waves they surfed were nothing like what we now call Teahupo’o – the thick, heaving wave that terrifies everyone. Teahupo’o was still a closely guarded secret. Then, barely a year later, bodyboarders Mike Stewart and Ben Severson found themselves crossing the bridge at the End of the Road – and they were the first to show off Teahupo’o’s potential, if only to their friends. Teahupo’s Surf Break became a gathering site for the subterranean hellmen of the bodyboard scene, thanks to whispers and tall tales. The Emergence of Professional Surfing The rest of the world did not widely recognize Teahupoo until 1997. There had been some film up to that time, but not much, and what was accessible didn’t even scratch the surface of what was possible. The ASP World Tour then traveled to Tahiti to compete on this legendary slab. They were unable to locate what they were looking for. And the Teahupo contest was practically never held. “We came here in 1997 to run the first event,” recalls Steve Robertson, then-ASP Australasian Manager. Steve was given the task of organizing the event. “And it was a disaster.” “The surf was terrible. The weather was terrible. We were using a big ferry boat for the Beach Marshall, and when there was a drastic wind change in the middle of the day, the ferry was blown up onto the reef causing thousands of dollars in damage. Then mid-event, the organizers up and left us because they ran out of money.” This left Steve and the rest of the ASP team to foot the bill for the award money, nearly going bankrupt in the process. Steve remarked, “It was a terrible experience. And we decided that we weren’t going to come back.” Teahupo’s Second Chance The Tahitian government contacts Steve out of the blue and offers to pay everything back if the ASP can show them the invoices incurred during the accident. That is exactly what they did. “Then they plead for us to return and run the event in 1998,” Steve continues. So the ASP returned to Teahupo the following year, preparing to run the Gotcha Pro at Teahupoo — only to be met with calamity once more. “It was the same old story – terrible weather, terrible surf – and the government was doing everything they could to welcome us, but at the end of the day, the ocean was still flat.” “Halfway into the competition, almost everyone was frightened, fearful that they wouldn’t be able to finish. Almost everyone that is – with the exception of Teahupoo legends Raimana Van Bastolaer and Vetea Poto David. The waves will come shortly, do not worry,” Raimana stated over and over. They did, as it turned out. The Teahupo Wave that Changed Surfing Forever “We got up the next morning, and it was like nothing I’d ever seen in my life,” Steve adds. “Richie Porta, the Head Judge at the time, was with me when we first saw it at daybreak. We couldn’t believe what we saw. It was one of the most surreal experiences I’ve ever felt.” “It was easily 12-foot, but it wasn’t the size that worried us. The sheer power was unbelievable and completely uncharted territory for an event. We thought, ‘Can we really run and make these guys go out in this surf?’ We had a really good field of surfers (it was a WQS 6-Star at the time), and it was just too perfect to call it off. We knew we could do it. So we did.” The Gotcha Pro lasted three days, and each day was spectacular. The imagery spread like wildfire, and the event became an overnight sensation. Had there been no persistence from the Tahitian government, particularly Pascall Luciani and the Tahitian Water Patrol, the team wouldn’t have returned. Teahupoo would have never made it to the history of surfing. Teahupo’s Surf Break Teahupo is one of the world’s most dangerous waves. It has the potential to give you a once-in-a-lifetime ride or to kill you. The liquid gem of Tahiti is often referred to as a mutant species that courageous, … Read more

Who Are The Hawaiian Gods? | Hawaiian Mythology

December 27, 2021by Luke Morris

One of Joseph Campbell’s quotes says that “Myth is the secret opening through which the inexhaustible energies of the cosmos pour into human cultural manifestation.” The connection between humans, myth, and nature is apparent in Hawaii, once called “The Big Island.” Hawaiian mythology isn’t just a piece of history from long ago. It’s a widespread spiritual belief among many of the island’s indigenous people. Hawaiian kahunas’ (or priests) ancient chant – the epic Kumulipo traces humanity’s origins to a cosmic night believed to be the concept of biological evolution. Let’s take a closer look at Hawaiian mythology. We’ll learn who are the Hawaiian Gods and goddesses, and we’ll see how many of the island’s best attractions are linked to old stories. Who Are The Hawaiian Gods? Hawaiians still follow the ancient Hawaiian religion and mythology. Kāne, Kanaloa, Kū, and Lono were the four main Hawaiian gods of the people and the chiefs in the past and present. Each of these Hawaiian gods is different, and each community worships a different version of them. The Four Main Hawaiian Gods Kāne: The God of Creation and the Sky The father of living creatures The highest of the four major gods Kāne was the creator and the god of light in Hawaiian mythology. He was also a significant person in the world. Each time Kane is used in a title, it means the creator god. A lot of places where he lives call him “Tane.” He lives in Tahiti and New Zealand, as well as southeast Polynesia. People prayed to him as the god, gave him Kapa cloth, and gave him small amounts of alcohol. There are a lot of myths about Kāne, who is said to live in a floating cloud between earth and heaven. Kāne is said to live off Kauai’s west coast. Kane-huna-moku, or “hidden land of Kāne,” is the place’s name. It was thought to be the place where the sacred water of life, which has magical properties like making people rise from the dead, was found. In Hawaii, the great white albatross was thought to be a god because it was so white. Some Hawaiian chants were written for Kāne in the 19th century. They seem to have been inspired by early Christians who came to the island. The Hawaiian gods Kāne and Kū, and Lono were thought to be part of a primordial trinity with Kane, where the two Hawaiian gods helped Kane make heaven and earth. In one myth, they made a man and a woman in a land called the marvelous land of Kane. Kū: The God of War The god of war, politics, farming, and fishing The husband of goddess Hina Kū, the Hawaiian god of war, is often called Tu in Polynesia. The words ku and tu mean being stable, standing tall, or rising up. The war god had a high place in the pantheon because there were a lot of fights between tribes and island groups. In fact, King Kamehameha I was very fond of Kū, and he had a wooden statue of him with Kū when he went on many wars. The war god Kū also played a lot of other roles. He was called Kūʻula-kai, which means “Ku of the sea,” and Kū-moku-hāliʻi, which means “Ku of the canoe.” Because of how he spread the forest, he also became known as Kū-moku-hāliʻi, or Ku the island spreader. In Hawaii, Kū was linked to male fertility and the husband of Hina, and he and Hina were called on in rituals to help people have children. Lono: The God of Peace, Rain, and Fertility The god of agriculture Associated with fertility, rainfall, music, and peace Lono was the Hawaiian god of agriculture, and he was linked to fertility and the sky’s clouds, storms, rain, and thunder. When people call him by his full name, they call him Great Lono Dwelling in the Water. His symbol was the akua loa, which is a long staff with a carved human figure on top. Its neck has a crosspiece and is decorated with feathers, ferns, and Kapa cloth. Lord Lono, also known as Rongo or Ro’o in southeastern Polynesia, was also a Hawaiian god who could help people get better. There, he goes by the name of Ono in the islands of the Marquesas. In Hawaii, there were a lot of temples built for him that were used for medical things. The priests also asked Lono for rain and many crops, especially during the rainy season. The makahiki, which is a celebration of the annual harvest, was named after him because of this. Many people on the Hawaiian island thought Captain James Cook was their god Lono when he came to their island in 1778. Even the priests held a ceremony in their temples to honor him. In the end, the people in Hawaii realized that he was just like them. A fight broke out between the British and the Hawaiians, and Cook was killed. Kanaloa: The God of the Ocean The god of the underworld Teacher of magic and ruler of the ocean Kanaloa, Kāne’s younger brother, was the god of the ocean and wind in Hawaii. His name is Tangaroa, and he is one of the most important Hawaiian gods in all of Polynesia and is considered the best. However, his authority and roles vary from one island group to the next one. Even though he didn’t live on the island, Polynesians even thought of him as their creator and main Hawaiian god. Kanaloa was not as important in Hawaii as Kane, Ku, and Lono as the three Hawaiian gods. This is likely because people later arranged their pantheon to look like the Christian triadic pattern. Hawaiians thought of him as the god of squid, or sometimes an octopus that lived deep in the ocean. His own temple was not very common, but he was mentioned in prayers and celebrated during a specific time of the lunar month. People in Polynesia believe … Read more

What Are Lifeguard Flags? | Understanding Beach Warnings

December 23, 2021by Luke Morris

The beach is an ever-changing and dynamic environment. It might be enjoyable, but it can also be unpredictable and dangerous for those who are unaware of its potential dangers. This is why professional lifeguards who know their way around the beach utilize a system of lifeguard flags and signs to inform visitors about the crucial information they need to know. Understanding lifeguard flags can easily differentiate a lazy and enjoyable afternoon at the beach from a traumatic trip to the emergency room. What are lifeguard flags? Read on to find out what each color means for your day at the beach and more. What Are Lifeguard Flags? Lifeguard Flags have been used by lifeguard agencies in the US and worldwide for decades to inform swimmers of conditions, warn of hazards, mark safer swimming zones, and inform beachgoers about regulated areas. The Worldwide Life Saving Federation produced international warning flag criteria in 2004 to maintain global consistency. The International Standards Organization has partly adopted these rules, and the USLA (United States Lifesaving Association) endorsed them. By adhering to these warning flag rules regularly, lifeguard agencies may guarantee that everyone understands what they mean and improve their effectiveness. These flags are only allowed to be used on beaches when USLA-certified lifeguards are on duty. Flags are not a replacement for adequately trained and equipped rescuers; instead, they are tools to employ around the coast. How Do Lifeguard Flags Work? To be truly effective, the usage of warning flags to alert the public to current hazard levels must be constant, based on objective, measurable criteria that can be registered, tracked, and then adjusted when conditions change. They should be accompanied by initiatives to educate people about the significance of the lifeguard flags. The state of the ocean varies across the United States. In some regions, conditions that are deemed mild may be viewed as a serious safety issue in others. As a result, the USLA recommends that particular local criteria be devised in each location where lifeguard flags are used and that the public be made aware of such measures. Lifeguard Flag Definitions Here are the most common lifeguard flags you may need to understand and heed to keep you safe in the waters and make the most of your beach trip. Yellow Flag The danger level is moderate. There are moderate waves or currents. The entry of weak swimmers into the water is discouraged. Others should be treated with extra caution and attention. Yellow flags indicate that it’s going to be a hard day in the waves, that there are significant waves, or that there’s a small rip current. We encourage adult supervision at all times in yellow flag conditions (or actually any surf conditions). If there are kids, make sure they’re wearing life vests. The most prevalent type of flag seen is the yellow flag. Before swimming in an area with a yellow flag, you should take safety measures. Red Flag There is a significant risk. The presence of a red flag denotes that the surf is particularly hazardous. This could be due to large waves, severe rip currents, or other potentially dangerous situations. Unless you are a really skilled swimmer, you should avoid going into the ocean when the red flag is flying. If you really must go out under red flag circumstances, do not enter the water with children, and always swim with a friend. Finally, this flag means that you should only swim at your own risk, and even then, you should proceed with extreme caution. The red sign indicates a “High hazard,” as defined by the ILSA. Double Red The ILSA describes a red flag above another red flag as “Extremely high hazard. Water is closed to public use.” This flag is only displayed in the most severe surf conditions. In these situations, we strongly advise avoiding entering the sea. At all costs, avoid entering into surf conditions with double red flags. Purple There are marine pests such as jellyfish, stingrays, and other marine species that can cause mild injury in the ocean. It would be best to surf at your own risk with purple flags. Before entering, always check with your lifeguard because marine pests could range from bioluminescent algae to Box Jellyfish. We strongly advise against entering purple flag situations. The sting of a hazardous jellyfish can be lethal. However, note that this flag does not indicate the presence of sharks. Red/Yellow (Halved Red Over Halved Yellow) This flag means Lifeguards are stationed in the vicinity. These flags can be used in pairs to signify a defined area or zone along a beach or waterfront that is most closely overseen or patrolled by qualified lifeguards and where swimming and surfing are allowed. These flags can be used individually to indicate that swimming is permitted in front of the flagged area and that a qualified lifeguard supervises the area. Black/White (Quartered) These lifeguard flags can be used in pairs to identify a specified area or zone along a beach or waterfront for people who use surfboards and other non-powered watercraft. The conditions are ideal for surfing in this area, and the flag warns non-surfers to stay away to keep both surfers and beachgoers safe. Yellow With Central Black Ball This lifeguard flag means non-powered watercraft, such as surfboards, are prohibited. Orange Windsock This cone-shaped lifeguard flag is used to show the direction of offshore winds and that using inflatable objects in the ocean is dangerous. Red/White (Quartered) The quartered red and white lifeguard flag means emergency evacuation is required. In the event of an emergency, swimmers should exit the water. Emergencies can include but are not limited to the presence of dangerous marine species, such as sharks, contaminated water, or lifeguards performing a search of the water area, such as looking for a lost child. (Alternatively, the double red flag could be used.) Safety Tips Supervise Children at All Times It’s critical to keep an eye on kids and young adults at all times. They … Read more

Top 8 Best Long John Wetsuits for Men and Women

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

A good, reliable wetsuit is an important part of every water sports enthusiast’s life. Whether you are surfing the waves of the ocean, wakeboarding behind a boat, or spending your time on a SUP, there is a wetsuit suited for your needs. As the weather begins to warm up, you will likely be switching out your thick winter suit for a thinner summer wetsuit. One popular summer/ spring wetsuit cut is the long john, which we will look closer into throughout the article below. What is a long john wetsuit? A long john (male) or long jane (female) wetsuit is a full-length wetsuit with a sleeveless top. This style of the wetsuit has the advantage of providing maximum coverage while keeping the shoulders and arms free, thus allowing for a full range of motion. Long john wetsuits are usually used in summer and spring months with water temperatures approximately 62 *F – 68 *F (16.67 *C – 20 *C), although this differs from person to person. Long john wetsuits are ideal for swimming, triathlons, wakeboarding, and kayaking as the full coverage keeps the athlete warm while allowing their shoulders to be free. Because surfing requires a large amount of paddling with the shoulders, a long john wetsuit, although not popular, could be an asset. Top 8 Best Long John Wetsuits For Men: XCEL Axis Long John Wetsuit (Our Top Pick) Body Glove Long John (Best Budget) Neil Pryde Firewire Long John Wetsuit (Best High End) Neo Sport Waterman John Wetsuit O’Neill Men’s Reactor 2 For Women: Roxy Rise Collection Long Jane Spring Suit (Our Top Pick) Billabong Sol Sistah(Best Budget) Mirage Ultimate Long Jane Wetsuit Best Long John Wetsuits for Men XCEL Axis Long John Wetsuit (Our Top Pick) When it comes to wetsuit manufacturing, no one excels in the industry like XCEL. For many surfers, once they have used an XCEL wetsuit they never go back, and this is for good reason. The XCEL Axis is no different and stands above the rest with its 2mm long john style cut, Flushlock seams, and short back zipper to limit water flush potential. This wetsuit is perfect for either warmer water, or when you will be performing at high intensity, will keep you insulated and protected from the sun’s UV, all while allowing your arms to move naturally. Body Glove Long John (Best Budget) There are many wetsuit manufacturers out there that are mostly ignored because they don’t use the XCEL or Billabong name, Body Glove, however, is not one of these companies. Well sealed, insulated, and fitted like a glove, these wetsuits are some of the best on the market. Although Body Glove makes its name from cold-water wetsuits, their 2mm front entry summer long john suit is perfect for a summer surfer on a budget. Neil Pryde Firewire Long John Wetsuit (Best High End) Neil Pryde, a top name in the windsurfing world, brings some of the best-designed wetsuits for kitesurfers, windsurfers, and wakeboarders alike. The Firewire long john wetsuit is unrivaled when it comes to flexibility which leaves you with better maneuverability and more energy to concentrate on your surfing. The thicker 3mm neoprene makes this suit more suitable for a wider range of water temperatures while remaining insulating thanks to the thermal chest panel. This is without a doubt, a wetsuit that thought and time was given to. Neo Sport Waterman John Wetsuit Coming in 3mm, 5mm, and 7mm thicknesses, the waterman long john wetsuit from Neo Sport offers diversity to best suit the climate you will be training in. Whether you are a surfer, kayak, or are training for a triathlon, this wetsuit with its adjustable neck, flatlock seams, and spot taped stress points, the waterman is a great option. O’Neill Men’s Reactor 2 The Reactor-2 from O’Neil is built with performance and flexibility in mind. This 2mm spring suit is made with strategic seam placement for maximum durability and comfort, ankle zips to aid with entry and exit, and Flatlock stitched breathable seams. Best Long John Wetsuits for Women Roxy Rise Collection Long Jane Spring Suit (Our Top Pick) When it comes to women’s surf gear, there are not many better-known names than Roxy. Only 1.5mm thick, colorful, and of the best quality, the Roxy Rinse Long Jane is perfect for stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, and surfing on the hottest summer days. With a front zip entry, and Stretch Flight 2 neoprene, this suit is easy to take on and off, flexible, but yet surprisingly insulating. Billabong Sol Sistah (Best Budget) Biiliabong’s Sol Sistah spring suit is another long john style wetsuit perfect for UV protection during the summer. This wetsuit’s lining is made with 100% recycled Superflex and is comprised of 80% neoprene, 10 nylon, and 10% polyester. As this long jane wetsuit is only 1mm thick, it creates the perfect balance from the elements while preventing you from overheating. Mirage Ultimate Long Jane Wetsuit If you are looking for a full-length swimsuit that has just a little more insulation than normal, then the Mirage Ultimate long jane is the perfect suit. This long jane is not like other styles as it takes into consideration the style and cut of the wetsuit. This is not just a suit to protect you from the ocean and other environments, but a stylish costume for slightly cooler conditions. What to Look For When Buying a Long John Wetsuit If you are looking at buying a new (or secondhand) long john wetsuit, you will need to go through much of the same process as buying other wetsuits. You will need to consider where you will be surfing, the climate of the area, the temperature of the water, the type of ocean bottom, the thickness of the suit, and how active you generally are in the water. Above this, however, it is particularly important to pay attention to the length of the long john wetsuit. As long johns are armless, they do not seal as well as a full-length … Read more

What Is Adaptive Surfing? | Ocean’s Power to Heal

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Bethany Hamilton was 13 years old when she went for a morning surf on Kauai’s Tunnels Beach with her best friend Alana Blanchard and Alana’s father and brother. While lying on her surfboard belly-down and conversing with Alana, a 14-foot-long (4.3 m) tiger shark attacked her. Her left arm, which she had been dangling in the water just below the shoulder, was quickly bitten off by the shark. The very same arm she needed to paddle and balance while perfecting her surfing tricks – gone in a blink of an eye. Everyone was left wondering how she’d surf and if she’d ever surf again. She did and even won awards. Hamilton refers to herself as an “adaptive” athlete. But what is adaptive surfing and an adaptive athlete, you ask? This article brings the answers to that and more. What Is Adaptive Surfing? Adaptive surfing is simply defined as riding ocean waves toward the shore on a surfboard while overcoming a physical limitation. But, to the global community of adaptive surfers, the hundreds of local and international organizations that support the sport, and the army of volunteers who devote their time to adaptive surfing events, adaptive surfing means a lot more. Adaptive surfing means – surfers leaving their wheelchairs and crutches behind to hit the waves. It is making surfing more accessible to youngsters and adults because of advancements in board modifications, bespoke prosthetics, and the warmth of wetsuits. Adaptive Surfing: Leisure, Competition, or Therapy Adaptive surfing is an outdoor sport that takes place in a natural, dynamic, and physically demanding setting. Compared to other typical adaptive water sports, shifting waves, rip currents, tides, and the beach appear to be a new method (such as swimming, rowing, or sailing). Adaptive surfing can be divided into three broad categories of treatments based on this foundation: sports leisure and play, competition and high performance, and therapeutic technic or rehabilitation proposals. In the first category, adaptive surfing as leisure can be found in various casual settings, such as sports tourism, recreational activities, or simply free-time or weekend pursuits. At the competitive level, the adaptive surfer’s high performance and results are considered. It has a more formal commitment since the sports practitioner becomes a professional athlete, adhering to the tight training, feeding, and resting standards to concentrate on competition results. The adaptive surfer is focused on achieving greater results than other surfers in this form of intervention at a competitive level. The last category is a therapeutic intervention. This is similar to the previous one because its particular motor, psychological, and social skills must be met. Although the surfer/patient is focused on achieving better results in this type of intervention, he focuses on his rehabilitation and social inclusion. He achieves all these by realizing independence and functional autonomy in his daily living, rather than outperforming the other surfer. Who Can Surf? Anyone, especially those with particular requirements, such as those with a disability, who require extra support, specialized equipment, or an adapted surfing experience to fit their abilities, can do adaptive surfing. Impairment Type Athletes must have a physical or visual disability to compete. And, in order to compete, athletes must have a classification. Classification Adaptive Surfing has six divisions: OPEN AS 1 (Stand/Kneel – Upper Limb Amputees, BK Amputees) OPEN AS 2 (Stand/Kneel – Kneel, AK Amputees) OPEN Visually Impaired OPEN Upright (Waveski) OPEN Prone OPEN Assist Each division has its own set of categories that must be met to compete. How To Get Classified Each participant’s application will be reviewed by the ISA Adaptive Surfing Classification Review Committee, which will determine their eligibility for adaptive surfing events. Adaptive Surfing on Global Stage The 4th annual World Adaptive Surfing Championship, held in early December 2018 in La Jolla, CA, with a record-breaking 120 players representing 24 national para-surfing teams, demonstrated the rise of adaptive surfing. The International Surfing Association (ISA), the same governing organization responsible for including surfing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, hosted the four-day event. In total, 12 individual world champions were crowned in six categories, including Team USA’s first-ever overall team gold medal. The popularity of the competitive side of the sport is at an all-time high, thanks to the ISA’s continued efforts to have Adaptive Surfing included in the 2028 Paralympics in Los Angeles. This level of excitement and intensity is not exclusive to great athletes. It also includes the growing number of people who want to experience the healing power of the ocean on their first wave, as well as others who are returning to surfing after spinal cord injuries that have changed their lives. The ISA (International Surfing Association) The International Olympic Committee recognizes the International Surfing Association (ISA) as the World Governing Authority for Surfing. Shortboard, Longboard, Bodyboarding, StandUp Paddle (SUP) Racing and Surfing, Para-Surfing, Bodysurfing, Wakesurfing, and other wave riding activities on any wave or flat water using wave riding equipment are all governed and defined by the ISA. They aim to use surfing to make the world a better place by promoting, developing, and leading surfing in all of its forms worldwide while also uniting the global surfing community and promoting accessibility and universal involvement. The Birth of Adaptive Surfing Jesse Billauer was one of the best junior surfers in the world in 1996, and he was going to compete professionally. Billauer struck a shallow sandbar headfirst while surfing his local break in Malibu, CA, shattering his 6th vertebrae and rendering him paraplegic. But it was his road back to being able to surf that paved the way for those who have been paralyzed to have access to surfing. Life Rolls On, Billauer’s non-profit group, presented its first event, “They Will Surf Again,” in 2001. LRO took a step into the unknown on that day, and TWSA has now developed into a nationwide, ten-city tour that has touched thousands of lives. Each event welcomes up to 50 participants who will spend the day surfing waves and sharing the stoke with hundreds of wetsuit-clad … Read more

Best Quotes About the Sun To Brighten Your Day

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

After months of cloudy and cold winter, nothing beats seeing the first glimpse of the sun’s rays and feeling its warmth. There’s just something about the sun that instantly melts the winter blues away! For many people, their most memorable moments often happen during summer — when the best waves for learning how to surf occur, and the beaches come most alive when the sun is shining oh, so brightly! Because of its power that uplifts people’s moods and spirits, a lot of movies, songs, and greeting cards are inspired by it. So if you have a family member or a surfing buddy that needs some cheering up, there’s nothing a good ol’ sun quote can’t do. Here we have compiled the best ones that are sure to put a smile on anyone’s face. The Best Quotes About the Sun Each one of us has our pick-me-ups to help us get through the day. Some drink their morning coffee, read quotes for inspiration, and others go outside for some sun. Combine all three, and you’re sure to have a great day ahead! For best results, you can start reading these sun quotes we’ve found in books and online. “If you want to shine like a sun, first burn like a sun.” — A. P. J. Abdul Kalam “The sun will rise and set regardless. What we choose to do with the light while it’s here is up to us. Journey wisely.” — JayDee Mahs “Keep your face to the sunshine.” — Walt Whitman “Don’t let the shadows of yesterday spoil the sunshine of tomorrow. Live for today.” — Nandina Morris “The sunrise, of course, doesn’t care if we watch it or not. It will keep on being beautiful, even if no one bothers to look at it.” — Gene Amole “The sun is a daily reminder that we too can rise again from the darkness, that we too can shine our own light.” — S. Ajna “Even the darkest night will end and the sun will rise.” — Les Misérables pub.1862 “If you want to see the sunshine, you have to weather the storm.” — Frank Lane “The Sun illuminates only the eyes of the man but shines into the eye and the heart of the child.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson “Staring up at the sky on a bright, sunny day makes me dream and gives me ideas.” — Marc Jacobs “The sun don’t shine on the same dog’s ass all the time.” — Catfish Hunter “I cannot endure to waste anything so precious as autumnal sunshine by staying in the house.” — Nathaniel Hawthorne, The American Notebooks “Ô, Sunlight! The most precious gold to be found on Earth.” — Roman Payne “Sunshine is delicious, rain is refreshing, wind braces us up, snow is exhilarating; there is really no such thing as bad weather, only different kinds of good weather.” — John Ruskin “Some people are so much sunshine to the square inch.” — Walt Whitman “When the sun has set, no candle can replace it.” — George R. R. Martin “The Sun himself is weak when he first rises and gathers strength and courage as the day gets on.” — Charles Dickens “The sun shines everywhere, not just at the beach.” — Brande Roderick “I used to cover my windows in heavy curtains, never drawn. Now I danced in the sunlight on my hardwood floors.” ― Kimberly Novosel, Loved “Every day is a good day to be alive, whether the sun’s shining or not.” ― Marty Robbins “Do not lose hope. Please believe that there are a thousand beautiful things waiting for you. Sunshine comes to all who feel rain.” ― R.M. Drake “May sunshine surround you each new day. And may smiles and love never be far away.” ― Catherine Pulsifer “Be like a flower. Turn your face to the sun.” ― Kahlil Gibran “Some sunshine is good for the soul, but I always make sure I wear a big hat.” ― Miranda Kerr “And so with the sunshine and the great bursts of leaves growing on the trees, just as things grow in fast movies, I had that familiar conviction that life was beginning over again with the summer.” ― F. Scott Fitzgerald “In your darkest hour, give thanks, for in due time, the morning will come. And it will come with a ray of sunshine.” ― Michael Bassey Johnson “After every storm, the sun will smile; for every problem, there is a solution, and the soul’s indefeasible duty is to be of good cheer.” ― William R. Alger “Even after all this time, the sun never says to the earth, ‘You owe me.’ Look what happens with a love like that. It lights the whole sky.” ― Hafez “When the morning sun wakes up, the darkness in the valleys looks for a place to hide!” ― Mehmet Murat Ildan “The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.” ― Christopher McCandless “The sky takes on shades of orange during sunrise and sunset, the color that gives you hope that the sun will set only to rise again.” ― Ram Charan “There is sunshine in my soul today.” — Unknown “I only really and truly fully relax on my own. Give me a sun lounger, a pool, and a sea view, and I’m happy.” — Miranda Hart “Even the Sun directs our gaze away from itself and to the life illumined by it.” ― Eberhard Arnold “Like the moon, I will fade away, But like the sun I will rise again.” — Unknown “When the Sun kisses the horizon, that’s when you see the sky blush.” — Anthony T. Hincks “Laughter is magic that dispenses clouds and creates sunshine in the soul.” ― Richelle E. Goodrich “Being in the Sun is like going to parties – too much ages your … Read more

Top 5 Best Eco-Friendly Wetsuits | Most Sustainable Brands

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

best wetsuit on a surfer stretching on the beach

Green is the new black when it comes to wetsuits — and by that, we don’t mean the color. There’s a new trend in the wetsuit industry, and it involves using sustainably-sourced materials to replace petroleum-based neoprene commonly found in most wetsuits today. So what’s the reason behind the switch? According to news, 500,000 surfers in the United Kingdom replace their wetsuits once every two years, leading to over 380 tons of non-biodegradable waste ending up in landfills every year. Because of this, surfers are now looking for ‘green’ alternatives to effectively reduce their carbon footprint and help save the planet. In this article, we’ll be talking about the harmful effects of conventional neoprene used in making wetsuits, including how the use of plant-based rubber is slowly changing the industry. Here you’ll also find the best eco-friendly wetsuits in the market so you can enjoy surfing without the guilt. What are conventional wetsuits made of? Wetsuits provide protection and insulation to keep you warm in cold-water surfing; hence why their constructed material should be as durable as it is heat-retaining. In 1930, Dupont Company invented the synthetic rubber used for manufacturing different surfing gear, and in 1951, the first-ever neoprene wetsuit was created. The neoprene material that they used was similar in many ways to natural rubber — it’s durable, bouncy, weather-proof, and water-resistant; however, there are many problems that come with neoprene such as its manufacturing process, as well as its sources. Neoprene from petroleum Neoprene is made by melting polychloroprene rubber chips mixed with foaming ingredients and coloring pigments such as black, then it’s baked in an oven to expand. After baking, the gas bubbles it produced make neoprene a good insulating material. Although neoprene from petroleum is generally safe to wear and get contact the skin, it’s a non-biodegradable material. Sourcing and manufacturing pose harmful risks to the environment, as well as your health. In fact, the United States Environmental Protection Agency determined that the substances and chemicals emitted from oil-derived neoprene are carcinogens, or substances known to cause cancer in humans. This means that if you live nearby a neoprene manufacturing plant or you’re constantly exposed to its fumes because you work inside its factory, you could be at risk of developing cancer in the long term. Meanwhile, short-term exposure may cause health hazards such as respiratory problems, dizziness, chest pains, skin irritation, headache, and reduced blood pressure. Neoprene from limestones Aside from petroleum, researchers found out that neoprene fabric can also be derived from a calcium carbonate mineral known as limestones. These rocks produce a lighter, more flexible, and more stretchable fabric compared to their predecessor. In the 1960s, many people believed that limestones are the ‘greener alternatives to petroleum’; however, this theory is inaccurate. Limestones are mined from the deepest of the earth, which doesn’t exactly make it environmentally friendly. Its sources are limited, and limestones are non-renewable. Also, converting this rock to become a fabric produces more carbon dioxide emissions than its oil-derived counterpart. Top 5 Best Eco-Friendly Wetsuits Even if neoprene’s sources and manufacturing process are already proven to be harmful, a lot of companies still use these materials in making wetsuits today. But since surfers are now becoming aware of its negative impact on the environment, they try to make a change by choosing eco-friendly wetsuit alternatives. But with several wetsuit brands claiming they’re going ‘green’, how do you know which one is the real deal? We’ve searched high and low for the top 5 most sustainable brands, including their environmentally friendly wetsuits that eco-minded surfers will surely love. Patagonia R3 Yulex Back-Zip Full Suit Vissla Eco Seas’ 3/2.5 Full Suit Xcel’s Infiniti LTD Wetsuit Picture Organic’s Dome 3/2 FZ Billabong’s Furnace Natural Zipperless Full Wetsuit #1: Patagonia R3 Yulex Back-Zip Full Suit Perhaps the best thing that ever happened to the wetsuit industry is when Patagonia invented Yulex — an innovative fabric that substitutes for the use of synthetic rubber in wetsuits. Unlike neoprene, Yulex is a plant-based material that is sourced from trees. It’s both renewable and sustainable because the trees used by Patagonia are able to produce rubber for 30 years. They are also certified by the Forest Stewardship Council by Rainforest Alliance, which means that the trees they source from are from certified plantations that don’t contribute to deforestation. But everything didn’t start as smoothly as Patagonia planned. Their first version of Yulex wetsuits was free from synthetic rubber; however, they are not as well-fitting and flexible as neoprene wetsuits. They’re also not very warm and they were very uncomfortable to wear. So when the Yulex 2.0 was released, Patagonia loyalists rejoiced — not only was this version 20% more stretchable than its predecessor, but it was also 5% softer and lighter. This makes it fast-drying and easy to store in bags. Take note that Patagonia only uses 85% of Yulex on its products, as 15% of the material used on this wetsuit is chlorine-free synthetic rubber polymer. Although this brand is technically not 100% sustainable, its many efforts in preserving the environment count in so many ways. Patagonia wears many hats, and aside from making use of Yulex for the R3 Yulex wetsuit, they also color it with solution-dyed linings that save up to 86% water in production or 100 liters of water. This process also enables them to reduce their carbon emissions by 96%. To take its environmental vision a couple of steps further, this company disregards the use of solvent-based glues and opted for water-based instead for this wetsuit’s lamination. Meanwhile, the face of their fabric and the thermal microgrid lining uses recycled polyester to reduce waste. This full suit is made for dynamic movements. The fabric stretches without binding joints, and it gives more flex in the shoulder so you are freer to move. Finally, the cost of the R3 Yulex wetsuit is $489. It has a higher price point than the other brands on this list because of its reputation and the … Read more

How Much Does Surfing Cost? | Cheap waves?

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Surfing appears to be a carefree pastime that is frequently connected with relaxation and being in one with nature. As with everything fun and exciting, surfing too has a price. Things start to add up quickly if you want a couple of different boards in your arsenal and wetsuits that fit your needs. Is surfing, then, a costly pastime? Depending on how you approach it and how serious you take it, surfing may be an inexpensive hobby or an expensive sport. However, it’s safe to say that learning to surf is pretty affordable, especially if you live near the shore. This article will answer all of your queries about how much surfing cost and everything that comes with it. The Surfing Lifestyle: How Much Does Surfing Cost? Initial start-up costs can frighten a newcomer away before even stepping on a surfboard. The good news is that once you have the necessary equipment, the open ocean is all you need to get started. That is how surfing is pretty accessible. Surfing is generally less expensive than skiing, golfing, or windsurfing. The difference between skiing and surfing is that you don’t have to pay to use the beaches, unless you plan to go to the Maldives, where some resorts have private waves. However, if you acquire wave fever, make sure you have money set out for surf trips. You can simply discover waves by traveling around the world a couple of times a year. What Do I Need? To begin, you’ll need a surfboard, surf fins, leash, tail pad, wax, and a travel cover. We may also include a neoprene wetsuit, a poncho for simple changing, a key lock to keep your car keys safe while you’re in the water, a wetsuit drier, and, of course, sun protection. The list of accessories is truly endless, but so far, these are the most common surf accessories you will need. Surfboard A beginner’s surfboard can cost anywhere from $300 to $1,000. You don’t need to buy an expensive or professional branded surfboard at the start of your surfing journey. As you gain experience, you will wear it out. You might discover that surfing is not for you, so don’t waste your money first. Longboard surfboards are usually better for beginner surfers. They’re simpler to balance on and pop up on when you’re initially starting out. You should also consider getting a foam board to help you catch waves and avoid getting hurt if you spend the entire day falling off your board. Soft top surfboards, sometimes known as foamies, can cost as little as $100. Wetsuits The only other thing you’ll need is a good wetsuit once you’ve got your surfboard. Unless you’re going all out for a super high-performance suit, most wetsuits cost between $100 and $300. Make sure you get one that is within your price range. Consult local surfers to determine the type of wetsuit you require. You might discover that you won’t need one. If that is the case, you can start by wearing many rash guards or board shorts. This will save you money over buying a wetsuit because they are less expensive. But, if you intend to surf in cold water, you should dress as warmly as possible. With a proper wetsuit, you can stay in the water for as long as possible without getting cold. How Much Do Surf Lessons Cost? Depending on the popularity of the surf school and where you’re surfing, an average surfing lesson can cost anywhere from $25 to $100. In smaller, less well-known spots, one- to two-hour surf lessons cost between $10 and $20. You could end up spending anywhere from $20 to $70 per hour in larger, more popular places. While some surf shops provide free lessons, it’s nearly always part of a more extensive marketing campaign to encourage you to buy some of their gear. A typical surfing instruction lasts one to two hours. Depending on which lesson you receive, you may receive a half-day or full-day of instruction. Although you may be needed to bring your own surfboard and wetsuit to the lesson, most surf schools will provide you with this equipment. In some instances, the class fee includes the rental of a surfboard and wetsuit, so make sure you understand what you’re getting and that your demands are met. How Much Does Other Surf Accessories Cost? So you’ve got your surfboard and wetsuit, but what about the rest of the surfing accessories? To maintain your board smooth and grippy, you’ll also need a surfboard leash, surfboard wax, and a surfboard traction pad. At this point, any additional gear is absolutely optional. The good news is that all of the equipment, except for a wetsuit and the board itself, is very reasonable. For how useful board wax is, it’s incredibly inexpensive! Some surfers spend a lot of money on their way of life. Surfing should be treated as a recreational activity at first. As you improve, you might consider it a way of life. Some surfers compete in surfing events to supplement their high-priced lives. You can wind up paying $600 to $700 on new surfing equipment. Depending on how serious you are about surfing, it can be an inexpensive hobby or an expensive way of life. How Much Does Travelling For Surfing Cost? Unfortunately, flying on a surf trip is one of the most costly aspects of surfing. Airlines like American Airlines charge $150 for each board, despite it being just a surfboard. Do the arithmetic if you’re traveling with nine boards. The cost of the surfboard may possibly exceed the cost of your ticket. For long-distance flights, Delta charges $200 per board. Surfboards are charged a service fee by airlines because they require specific handling. They are typically larger and irregularly shaped, making them more difficult to carry into the belly of an airplane among common baggage goods. Surfboards, for example, are heavier and more fragile than other types of recreational equipment, necessitating special handling and, … Read more

Warmest Wetsuit for Surfing | Ultimate Cold Weather Guide

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Although many people imagine surfing in warm, tropical waters, the fact is that most of us must surf in a wetsuit for several months of the year. When it comes to surfing in cold water, we need to know how warm a wetsuit will be, because staying warm is a crucial component of having fun and remaining out in the water. So, which is the warmest wetsuit for surfing? No single brand or model is the most temperate, but the warmest wetsuits for surfing now available are 7mm thick wetsuits with enhanced thermal qualities. Let’s look at the distinctions between these sorts of wetsuits in more detail now that you know the answer in a nutshell. This article will also assist you in determining the best method for your needs to extend your time in the surf. Warmest Wetsuit for Surfing The warmest wetsuits for surfing now available are 7/6mm thick, such as the warm Billabong Furnace on Amazon. On the other hand, this type of wetsuit is designed for extreme conditions such as winter surfing in Alaska, Iceland, Norway, or elsewhere. Most surfers will never need more than a conventional 5/4mm thickness wetsuit for cold-water surfing, and even then, such wetsuits can go a long way, even in water as cold as 43°F (6°C). Different conditions will exist depending on where you live, but the following information can serve as a starting point: Moreover, it would be best if you considered the following aside from water temperature: Air temperature Wind speed Your sensitivity to coldness Activity level What To Look For in A Warm Wetsuit You want a wetsuit that has all of the following properties to get the most warmth out of it for surfing: polypropylene lining liquid-taped seams snug fit attached hood quality brand not too old Polypropylene Lining Polypropylene is a relatively new addition to surfing wetsuits, yet it is highly beneficial to those who suffer from cold water sensitivity. This is commonly seen on the inside of a wetsuit in a bright color like orange or red. It may appear fluffy and pleasant to the touch, but don’t be fooled; it adds a significant amount of warmth to a winter surfing wetsuit. Polypropylene does enhance the price of a surf wetsuit because it is an optional feature. Otherwise, there are no drawbacks; it simply warms you up and is incredibly comfortable Liquid-taped Seams In terms of surfing, wetsuits featuring these such seams are also very new. Wetsuits used to have regular stitching, but now they have liquid taped seams, making them more comfortable, last longer, and letting in less water. Liquid-taped seams are basically liquid adhesive that covers the stitching or seam. As hinted above, this extra feature not only keeps water out, but also keeps the seams together, making your warm wetsuit more durable. The seams progressively fall apart with wet tooting cold water, which is a serious issue. As you might expect, a wetsuit usually drenched water, stitched together, and worn by a surfer frequently needs to be tough. As a result, using liquid tape on the seams improves durability and allows for a more comfortable and warm wetsuit for surfing. This liquid tape is usually only seen on the exterior of wetsuits, while it is becoming increasingly common on the inside of more expensive or premium wetsuits. As with the polypropylene lining, the only disadvantage is that the more liquid-taped seams, the more expensive it can get. But, for most cold-water surfers, this compromise is well worth it. Other Types of Warm Wetsuit Seam Seals Flatlock Wetsuit Stitching Best for use in waters above 62°F Lies flat against your body with no discomfort May let in a little water Sealed Wetsuit Seams Ideal for use in waters of 55°F and higher These stitch panels are blind stitched after being glued. The blindstitching on the neoprene does not go all the way through. Instead, the stitch is impermeable since it exits on the same side that it entered. May let in very little water Sealed and Taped Wetsuit Seams Recommended for use in water that is 55°F and below This stitch is blindstitched after being glued, but it also has internal seam taping. The inner taping will give resilience to the seam, reinforce it, and prevent water from seeping through. Fit A wetsuit should fit like a second skin, with no sagging or bunching in the arms or legs. It should be snug to allow only a thin layer of water to pass between your body and your suit. If your suit is too loose, a lot of water will get in and make it less effective in keeping you warm. A warm wetsuit for surfing should also be able to wrap around your neck snugly (many people wear a rashguard underneath their wetsuit to prevent a neck rash). For extra protection and support, women wear a swimsuit underneath. When purchasing a wetsuit, the fit is quite crucial. Your wetsuit will not be able to keep you warm or provide you with the movement you require for your sport if it does not fit properly. The easiest way to find the right wetsuit fit is to consult brand-specific size charts. Wetsuit Fit Checklist There should be no extra room in the torso, crotch, shoulders, or knees once you’ve put on your wetsuit. When dry, putting on a properly fitting wetsuit will be difficult. (Pro Tip: Keeping your socks on will make it much easier for your feet to slide in!) Lift your arms above your head and stretch your shoulders once you’ve put it on. This move should only be a minor constraint. If this movement causes you to feel a lot of pressure, the suit is too tiny. You should be able to squat and move your arms freely (wetsuits with a thickness greater than 5/4mm are fundamentally limiting). Hood A hood is usually typically included with super thick surfing wetsuits. This inclusion is for a good reason – without a … Read more

Surfing 2 Foot Waves | Discover Fun in Knee-High Waves

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Surfers usually discard small waves. We often say, “If it’s small, it’s not worth it.” However, there are several lessons to be gained from the tiniest ripples. But what constitutes a good wave, and how big do waves have to be for you to surf it? Are you able to surf two-foot waves? Even if you prefer bigger waves to smaller waves, you can definitely ride 2 foot waves. Even while 2 foot waves may appear insignificant, they are totally surfable. The truth is, due to the way surfers estimate wave height, what’s considered a two-footer could actually be 3 or 4 feet. For example, it depends on whether the surfer is measuring the wave’s face or rear. This article explains surfing 2 foot waves and everything you need to know about knee-high waves. Can You Surf 2 Foot Waves? As hinted above, 2 foot waves are definitely rideable. Knee-high waves are ideal for beginners to learn on as well as professional surfers to practice on. These waves have less force behind them, making them ideal for improving your paddling skills. While big waves do a lot of the work for you in terms of pulling you onto the wave, little waves need you to paddle much harder. Larger waves require more energy to maintain, so you’ll have to pump harder down the wave. 2 foot waves need different boards than larger waves. Utilizing a larger board, such as a longboard or a foam board, will be more pleasurable. Small surf is more common in most regions than huge surf; therefore, knowing how to ride it is essential. You might not get out much if you’re just waiting for massive swells. Learning to ride different sorts of waves is crucial because practice is a big part of becoming a great surfer. Moreover, not all waves are made equal. Wind, swell, and where the waves break all play a role in generating surf. Wave Height Measurement There are a few options when it comes to determining the height of a wave – Body Measurements, the Hawaiian Scale, the Bascom Method, and the Surfable Wave Method. Which approach you employ is determined by your location or preference. Because there are several methods for measuring wave height, you should be aware of how someone determines wave height when discussing the surf. Body Height Method While not a formal method of measuring waves, it is a well-known and widely used method. Waves are labeled as ankle-high, knee-high, etc., up to overhead and double overhead using the body height approach. It’s not entirely true because all surfers are of various heights, but it’s based on a surfer who stands 6 feet tall. This is arguably the simplest way to describe wave height in an informal situation. Below is the Surfline Surf Height Scale, which implies a surfer on a wave has slightly bent knees. 1’ = ankle-shin high 2’ = knee-thigh high 3’ = waist-belly high 4’ = chest-shoulder high 5’ = head high 6’ = 1 foot overhead 8’ = 3’overhead 10’ = 5′ overhead or Double overhead faces 12’ = Double Overhead+ faces 15’ = Triple Overhead faces 20’ = It’s just massive The Hawaiian Scale Local surfers in Hawaii utilize the rear of the wave to estimate wave height, which is referred to as the Hawaiian scale or the traditional scale. The history of the Hawaiian scale and the conversion process are both hotly argued topics. From trough to crest, the translation from face to Hawaiian is around 1/2 to 2/3 of the original size. However, as the wave’s magnitude increases on the Hawaiian scale, the distance between its face height and its stated height widens. A wave nearly two to three times overhead (12-15’+ wave face), for example, would be 6 to 8 feet high. In addition, this traditional wave measurement is not too popular outside Hawaii. The Bascom Method A US engineer, adventurer, and scientist saw waves differently from how the Hawaiians saw them. Willard Newell Bascom developed the Bascom Method – a widely regarded method that was simple, fair, and rational. In his book “Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface,” he claimed that waves could be measured by standing on the beach and aligning your eyes with the wave crest and horizon. The wave is determined from the crest point to the average sea level. The distance between the trough and the crest of a wave is referred to as the “wave height” in the context of boating. Some surfers believe that the results are exaggerated and overestimated for some reason. The Surfable Wave Method The Surfable Wave Method is a fair and balanced approach based on the area that the surfer actually rides. It’s called Wave Amplitude in nautical terms, and it refers to how far from the top of the water is the undisturbed water surface to the bottom of the sea. This method strikes a balance between the Hawaiian Scale and the Bascom Method. According to the Surfable Wave Face concept, 2/3 of the Bascom Method is where surfers develop their lines and tricks from the bottom-turn and all the way up to the surface of the water. To summarize, a two-meter wave (6.5 feet) measured using the Bascom Method is equivalent to a one-meter wave (3.2 feet) on the Hawaiian Scale and a 1.3-meter wave (4.2 feet) when measured using the Surfable Wave Face measurement technique. Using the Surfable Wave Face approach, it is possible to achieve a wave measuring system for competition surfing that is both accurate while also balancing out the “underestimated” and “overestimated” methods. How To Surf 2 Foot Waves Riding small waves is not easy. But, it is from these 1 to 2 foot waves that we all learn how to surf. Mike Stewart, a nine-time World Champion bodyboarder, said; “You learn more from surfing small waves than you do from riding big waves.” While it isn’t so much fun to drive down to the beach only … Read more

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