Surfing: Ride Waves, Experience Thrills & Conquer New Height

Surfing in The Olympics: A History & Overview

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

It’s always been this way, Surfing. A sport that walks the line between sport and lifestyle, a fringe sport, or an outcast of sorts–a counter-culture. But nowadays, with multiple ways to make money through surfing, most notably through competition, surfing certainly is a sport. With big endorsement deals and solid prize money for Championship Tour athletes, surfing at the top level can be a 6-figure career. Not bad for riding waves and traveling the world, huh? However, surfing competitively is no easy feat, and it’s no coincidence the WQS (now Challenger Series) is known as the Q grind. It’s tough, and making it to the Championship Tour takes years of training, traveling, losing clutch heats, and heartbreak, not to mention tens of thousands of dollars. In recent years there’s been another dangling carrot for competitive surfers; a carrot that promises an international stage, good(ish) waves, and the chance to represent their country doing what they love at one of the biggest sporting events in the world, the Olympic Games. For the first time ever, surfing was added to the Olympics in the Tokyo 2022 games. While the waves were expectantly lackluster, Olympic surfing was an interesting watch for surf fans and the general public alike. The inaugural event took place in Chiba, just outside of Tokyo, at Shidashita Beach, whereas surfing’s next Olympic appearance will be at the 2024 France Olympics at Teahupoo, Tahiti (A french overseas territory). In this article, we dive into everything you need to know about surfing in the Olympics. We’ll cover how Olympic surfing works, how surfing became an Olympic sport, and how the qualification process works. We have a lot to get through, so let’s jump in. How Does Olympic Surfing Work? Olympic surfing works much in the same way as your favorite WSL Championship Tour event. In Man-on-man heats, the surfer’s best two waves make up an overall score out of 20, and surfers have 40 minutes to find their best rides and progress. The event is knockout and will run from Round 3 through Round 2, Quarterfinals, Semi-Finals, and eventually, a man-on-man finale where the remaining two battle it out for a coveted surfing Olympic medal. Now we know the rough competition format, let’s take a closer look at how Olympic surfing works. Contest Format The Olympic surfing contest format includes 48 surfers, 24 men and 24 women. 2 x surfers from each (NOC-country) will represent their respective nation and compete for countries that have qualified (through a separate ISA event. Confused yet? Same. Through the ISA world games, surfers can qualify their country for the games, regardless of individual performance. (Nation’s must also qualify). Scoring So how is surfing scored in the games? Olympic surfing will be scored with the traditional surf contest criteria, with waves marked on a combination of: Speed, power, and flow Commitment and degree of difficulty Combination of major maneuvers Variety All WSL contests are judged based on these criteria, and so too will the Olympics. However, emphasis is put on different aspects of the criteria depending on the location and conditions. Whatever the criteria emphasis, surfers will be scored on their best two waves within a 40-minute man-on-man heat, and the closer their total to twenty, the better their chances of advancing. Conditions In the Tokyo Olympics, the contest was held at Shidshita Beach. An average stretch of beach at the best of times, let alone in mid-summer when the games were held. Waves were 1-2ft, onshore mush burgers for most of the contest before concluding on finals day in 4ft stormy but still extremely mushy conditions. (It was basically like an oversized weak Huntington). Due to the conditions, waves were scored on moves like airs, speed, power, and flow. However, things will ramp up in France 2024 with the event being held at the famous Teahupoo. Teahupoo is a perfect left barrel, hollow and heavy, and should conditions provide, waves will be scored on barrel riding as it’s traditionally a barrel-only type wave. (Fingers crossed for good waves). While epic surf isn’t guaranteed whenever a set date is in place, the planned event dates (27-30 July) are slap bang in the middle of Chope’s swell window. Most Recent Olympic Surfing Results The first-ever Olympic surfing event occurred in 2021 as part of the Tokyo 2020 (postponed initially due to Covid) at Shidashita Beach. Although the conditions and subsequent waves were 1-2ft slop at best, the event was intriguing to watch. I thought the broadcasting was excellent, with a commentary team of both surfers and non-surfers. This allowed non-surfing viewers to learn and understand what makes a well-surfed wave, and for surfers, it was great to listen to people who actually knew what they were talking about. It was also epic to see top pros mix it up with lesser-known names representing their country! There were some interesting battles, with Gabriel Media being knocked out by Japanese surfer Kanoa Igarashi, who went on to lose in the final against another Brazilian surfing superstar, Italo Ferreira–who took out surfing’s first-ever gold medal match. These were surfing’s medal placings in Tokyo 2020: 1st – Italo Ferrieria (Brazil) 2nd – Kanoa Igarashi (Japan) 3rd – Owen Wright (Australia) While the inaugural event was met with skepticism in the surfing world for me, I thoroughly enjoyed watching the surfers I know and love from the WSL compete on such a huge world stage. I regard any opportunity to see the best guys and gals surf (whatever the cosnitons) as a positive. Qualifying for the Olympics (Process & Requirements) Qualifying for the Olympics is a little complex, but I’ll try and explain it as simply as possible. In Short, the highest-ranked surfers from the WSL and ISA games events will qualify. To determine a fair way of deciding who competes, the WSL, ISA, and Olympic Committee comprised a hierarchical event structure. The Championship Tour The world’s best surfers competing on the WSL CT, will have first … Read more

Reef Rash: A Comprehensive Guide

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

There’s a picture-perfect blue wave peeling lushly into a channel. A Perfect hollow barrel with an easy exit and roll-in entry–the easiest wave you’ll ever surf. The sun’s beaming, the water is bathtub-like, and there’s no one else in sight. It’s the stuff of dreams, right? If you’ve been lucky enough to sample the waves of the Mentawais or the Maldives, you’ll know this scene is a daily occurrence. I mean, it’s why you go! However, not everything is as it seems. What many people don’t tell you about some of the world’s best waves is they all break over sharp shallow reefs. Most tropical surf spots break over razor-sharp coral, and if you’ve ever dived on these reefs on flat days or been lucky enough to come into contact with one after a wipeout, you’ll know first-hand just how sharp and nasty they are. It’s a danger most surfers are pretty blase about. But falling can lead to serious injury, laceration, or reef rash. In this article, we dive into the annoying world and trip hindrance that is reef rash. From what it is and its symptoms to what you can do about it. I’ve written this post to give you confidence on your next surf trip and show you that reef rash doesn’t mean your trip is over. We have a bit to uncover, so let’s dive in. What is Reef Rash? Reef rash is the slang term given to a surfer who falls and cuts themselves on a reef. Typically, these types of injuries will appear as either a laceration or graze. They often look worse than they are if there’s lots of blood, and it can be so bad that medical treatment (stitches) is required. Coral is sharp and contact with it can break coral heads and mean you not only have a cut, but tiny pieces of coral implanted into you, which in somewhere like remote Indonesia is a recipe for infection. This is reef rash; if you’ve ever been on a trip and experienced it, you’ll know it can make you uncomfortable, itchy, in pain, and even out of the water. So how can you prevent reef rashes in the first place? How to Prevent Reef Rash? The best and easiest way to prevent reef rash is not to surf shallow reef breaks. Duh? Or, like me, spend your entire ten-day Mentawai trip terrified of the reef sitting wide in the channel. But you don’t want to do this. You want to catch amazing waves and maybe the barrel of your life. When surfing shallow reefs, there’s always the risk of hitting the reef and getting rashed up. Reef Boots The most common area to get reef rash and cuts are the feet. Whether from walking across the reef or getting in from a break to fumbling around and getting your board back after a wave, the feet cop the brunt of it when it comes to contact with sharp reef. Thankfully, you can purchase a pair of reef boots. These are super thin wetsuit boots that protect your feet from the reef. It’s the best way to prevent most reef cuts! I’ve never worn reef boots because I come from England and refuse to put on any sort of wetsuit-related bootie in the topics; after all, it’s what I go to Indo to escape, so I just get cut–stupid! Helmet A helmet is great for more serious waves, such as shallow, hollow reef passes. The Gath helmet has seen a resurgence in recent years in lineups worldwide after Owen Wright took out the Chopes WCT wearing one. It’s strange that, as surfers, most of us don’t wear helmets even when surfing waves of consequence; you wouldn’t see a skateboarder without a helmet launching massive airs in a half pipe, would you? So a helmet might not prevent reef rash, but it can protect you against more serious and life-threatening injuries on shallow reefs. Rash Vest The clues in the name. A wetsuit top (2mm) can help prevent reef rash. Let’s say you fall and scrape your back against the bottom, bareback this would result in long grazes and reef rash all down your back. But by wearing just a thin wetsuit top, you project yourself, even just a little bit, from this risk. While a wettie top might not protect you entirely, it also serves as excellent sun protection, and if it’s a bit windy or raining, even in the tropics, I get cold, which helps with that too! Symptoms of Reef Rash Other than bleeding and stinging, some of the reef rash symptoms may include: Aching Firey feeling Redness Soreness Itching Mainly it will sting a lot and be annoying, but if symptoms persist, it could mean you have an infection (look for a reddening area around the cut), which will need antibiotics. How to Treat Reef Rash? If you’ve already had a fall and copped a bit of reef rash, don’t stress. There are a few ways you can treat it and prevent infection straight off the bat. Please note that for severe lacerations and cuts, you’ll need medical attention and may need stitching. But for minor scratches and grazes, the following remedies can work wonders. Lime – Any surf camp in the tropics will have a few limes knocking about, and this is the traditional budget surf travelers’ reef rash remedy. And yes, it works–well! Grab a lime and squeeze and rub it into the rashed area. The acidity in the lime will help clean and disinfect bacteria from the reef. Yes, it does hurt like hell, and yes, you might scream. But it’s super effective. Betadine – Betadine is not available in all counties (I can’t get it over the counter in the UK), but if you’re in Bali or coming from Australia, you can buy s small tub of betadine for less than $10 at your local chemist. It’s a brown disinfectant liquid that stops bacteria, and … Read more

Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

When you begin a new sport, such as surfing, you must learn the basics. The basics of any sport allow the athlete to grow in confidence and master more advanced tricks in the future. So, before you focus on the gnarliest tricks done by professional surfers, focus on getting the basics right. The best surfing tricks for beginners include the pop-up, the bottom turn, and the cutback, and these tricks, when practiced repeatedly, will lead the surfer to be able to do more advanced tricks. The best intermediate surfing tricks for beginners include the top turn, floater, and off-the-lip. In the article below, we will dissect the best tricks for beginner/intermediate surfers and provide a step-by-step guide on executing them. The best thing about starting with the best basic tricks for beginner surfers is finding a certain flow to your surfing. Best Surfing Tricks for Beginners: A Guide to Getting Started Technically speaking, before you focus on any of the best surfing tricks for beginners listed in the article, the first and one of the most important tricks to master is paddling. You will struggle to get in the best positions to perform the various surfing tricks without a good paddling technique. Surfing is a water sport where a surfer uses a board to ride the face (forward section) of a moving wave toward the shore. The surfer must employ a variety of basic tricks and proper techniques to successfully surf a wave and evolve into the best water athlete possible. Here’s a list of the key basic surfing tricks for beginners, and if you’re new to the sport of surfing, it’s highly suggested that you master them first: Basic Surfing Tricks for Beginners: The Pop-Up One of the most fundamental tricks of surfing is called the pop-up. The maneuver gets you from lying to standing; ultimately, you can’t surf if you can’t perform a pop-up, as you need to be on your feet when surfing. Think of the pop-up as a single-motion push-up that is both explosive and fluid simultaneously. Try the following steps when practicing the pop-up. Step 1: Positioning Your Body on the Surfboard The correct body positioning on the board is vital when performing a pop-up. Ideally, you want to lay in the sweet spot of your board, not too far forward and not too far back. Balancing in the middle of your board, called the sweet spot, makes paddling more efficient, resulting in good speed and maneuverability while out on the water. Lying too far back will result in too much weight on the tail, slowing the board down and counterproductive to planning. Lying too far to the front of the board will result in more planning speed and forward momentum, but the chances of nosediving increase. Before you perform a pop-up, lie on your stomach with your feet together (toes pointing towards the back of the board) and your hands on the surfboard close to your shoulders. Step 2: Find the Right Position in the Water Moving around and positioning yourself in the water is a required skill when you want to catch a wave. Scan the horizon for the right wave and paddle towards it to position yourself in the right position. Start paddling to shore to ride the wave when it reaches you and lifts you. Step 3: Push Your Body Up and Pop Up by Sliding Your Feet When you’re on the wave (wait for the lift), you must push your body up by using your core muscles, hands, and arms and sliding your feet forward. The aim is to land on your feet in the stance you have practiced on dry land. Swing both legs under you when pushing your body up. Your front foot must be near the board’s center, and your back foot should be near the tail. Your knees must be bent, and your weight distribution should be centered over the board for the best balance. If everything goes swimmingly, you should manage to surf the wave. Pat yourself on your back as you have performed what surfers call the pop-up. Helpful Hint – Practice your pop-up technique on dry land until your body learns and stores the memory in muscles. The more comfortable you become on land and regarding technique, the better your pop-up will feel when doing it in the water. Here is a helpful video if you’re struggling with your pop-up technique. Basic Surfing Tricks For Beginners: The Bottom Turn When you can perform the pop-up, a new set of beginner tricks must be mastered. One of these is called the bottom turn. The bottom turn is used to control your ride down the line in a smooth and effective manner. Step 1: Move Down the Wave Surfing involves moving to different parts of the wave to maximize the ride. After you pop up, the next thing to do is to ride the wave. As you go down the wave, your body should be in a crouch position. Make sure to focus on the spot of the wave where you want to go and use your extended arms for balance. Step 2: Keep Your Weight on Your Back Foot When reaching the bottom part of the wave, the aim is to keep your weight on your back foot, as you will need to launch the board into a pivotal turn and redirect it towards the face of the wave. Step 3: Launch the Board Up the Face of the Wave When you reach the bottom area of the wave, weight on the back foot, you need to push the tail of the surfboard down, turning it up to face the face of the wave. Keep your arms extended for balance, with your knees slightly bent, focused on where you want to go. The bottom turn sets you up to successfully ride down the line and rejoin the wave in surfable areas. Here is an excellent video on perfecting the bottom turn featuring Patrick … Read more

How to be a Pro Surfer: A Step-by-step Guide

June 5, 2023by Dan Harmon

Becoming a pro surfer is no easy feat in 2023! Gone are the days of six-figure contracts, big money deals, and brands throwing cash at every new kid from Coolangatta and San Clemente. It’s not how it used to be, and surf brands don’t have the money to hand out cash to every aspiring pro surfer. Nowadays, the guys and gals with the biggest deals are in the top 5 on the CT or “stylish” mal riders with large social followings, so unless you fall into one of these two categories, becoming a well paid pro surfer is tricky. However, don’t let that put you off; getting paid well to surf is still possible! With multiple infinite means of promoting yourself through social media, healthy contest prize money, and more revenue streams available than ever before, you can earn a comfortable living through surfing. In this article, we dive into everything you need to know to become a professional surfer, from the essential skills and techniques to building a personal brand and professional network. We’ll also look closely at balancing surfing with other aspects of life to achieve the holy grail of getting paid to surf and maintaining a happy life outside surfing. There’re heaps to unpack here, so let’s get to it. What Does it Take to Become a Professional Surfer? Becoming a professional surfer is a lifelong pursuit, a mission requiring years of dedication, time, and money, and it all starts in the early days. Starting Age Mos top CT surfers were early starters, riding their first waves as early as age 7, 6, and even 5. While you don’t want to push your kid into heat strategies as soon as they’re out of nappies, the earlier they start surfing, the more “reference points” a young surfer will develop. The younger, the better. From riding small lines of whitewater on the inside to progressing out the back and taking on pointbreaks–fundamental to the budding surfer. Foundational Skills There are several foundational surf skills and techniques required to surf well, let alone professionally. Mastering moves like carves, snaps, and airs with speed, power, and flow is critical to riding waves to a high standard. If you can’t do these types of moves, you won’t last long on the Challenger series. Other skill-based and fitness-related components are also vital to surfing. Strength, power, cardiovascular fitness, balance, and coordination help you surf better. What’s more, you can develop these skills regardless of your age, and If you’re committed to improving your surfing, it’s never too late to become a pro surfer. Competition While you could go down the road of free surfing and making surf videos, or even YouTube nowadays, competition is a massive part of becoming a pro surfer. Learning heat strategy, contest formats, and heat simulation are crucial if you want to go down the competitive route. With regional WQS comps feeding into the Challenger Series, getting to the Championship Tour is more affordable (not necessarily easier) than it once was. Travel Learning to be on the road perpetually is one of the unspoken hardships of being a pro surfer. It sounds all dreamy, but packing your badge every other week to fly to the other side of the world and get knocked out in the first round of the contest you’ve been training so hard for is tough. Whether you’re following the contest scene trying to make the World Tour or free surfing to get clips making clips, you spend most of your time on the road. Except for the North Shore of Oahu, surfing your local spot your whole life won’t expose you to epic waves and the surfing limelight. You must be on the road, chasing swells and tackling waves of all varieties– slabs, beachies, points, the whole shebang! These waves allow you to practice moves that can only be practiced in certain types of waves. Sponsors/Support While you could set up income streams that allow you to surf professionally. (e.g., social media and YouTube), It’s tricky to do things all by yourself. Having great sponsors who pay you a salary or help you with boards, wetsuits, etc. This helps when it comes to chasing the professional surfing dream! Personal Branding Today, having a personal brand and a solid online presence is critical. Whether developing a unique surf/lifestyle or creating content that aligns with brands you want to work with, your brand determines how attractive you are to companies and how much value you can provide them. This is why guys nowadays (who aren’t necessarily the best surfers) make more money through channels like YouTube and Socials. Check out Stab Mag’s “How Surfers Get Paid” to learn more about this. It’s a super interesting series with insights into how (and how much) top-level surfers make! Essential Skills & Techniques for Professional Surfing Surfing in Different Conditions Surfing in heaps of different conditions is essential to being good at surfing. Whether it’s surfing a heat in average 2ft slop or tackling 10ft Teahupoo, you’ve got to become a surfer who can surf in anything. Look at John John; he won the Eddie Aikau event and the World Title in the same year (2016), a testament to his prowess in waves of all shapes and sizes. Surf Technique Surfing is one of the most challenging sports to get good at because there are so many variables in play every time you paddle out. Not to mention how complex the techniques are themselves. Let’s break it down, every time you surf, you contend with the wind, tide, and swell, and that’s not even starting on equipment. You’ll then decide which board to ride based on how appropriate it is to the conditions. Then, you need to find the opportunity to practice different maneuvers, which is tough in an ever-changing ocean, even if the waves are pumping. A ton of surfing and practice is required to master even basic moves in surfing. Still, when you start trying airs, … Read more

Mikey Wright: Australia’s Favorite Surfing Son

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Few surfers combine such an out-there personality and surfing style as Mikey Wright. Embodying the true Aussie spirit, Mikey lives life in the fast lane–in and out of the water. In a sport so professional and clean-cut, the young Aussie is a refreshing antidote. An antidote that brings surfing back to its raw uncut roots. In this post, we dive into the life of the youngest Wright sibling, born into an Australian surf royalty in NSW. We’ll dive into how Mikey got started with surfing, his competitive and free surfing career, as well as Mikey’s unique style and personality. He’s been up to a lot in the past few years, so let’s get down to it. Mikey Wright: Upbringing Mikey Wright was born in Culburra, NSW, Australia—a small surf town south of Sydney, where Mikey was the youngest of four siblings. The Wrights are a renowned Australian surfing family and one of the most successful surf families ever. Tyler, Mikey’s older sister, is a veteran on the CT and 2 x women’s world champion, while Owen, his older brother (now retired), has been a top 10 feature on the CT for the past decade. Yep, Mikey had a lot to live up to as a grom! His older siblings paved the way for young Milkey, feeding him into a lifestyle of all things surf. The family traveled up and down the East coast of Australia in a bus, competing in junior/QS contests and surfing their brains out. This out-the-ordinary upbringing set the foundations for how Mikey surfs today. Young Mikey was picked up by Quiksilver at a young age and shared the up-and-coming grom spotlight with now big-name surfers such as Jack Robinson, Leo Firovanti, and Kanoa Igarashi. Before chasing the CT, Mikey was already a notorious free surfer, gaining media and social traction for his show-stopping video edits. If you haven’t seen Mikey’s videos like Root and Rage, I recommend checking them out! Mikey now resides on the Gold Coast in Queensland and has succeeded in and out of the jersey. Mikey Wright’s Career As a junior, Milkey was successful in competition, taking out multiple junior events, which fed him into the WQS. After chasing waves and seemingly pursuing a career in free surfing, Mikey qualified for the Championship Tour in 2018. (Note – Mikey appeared as a wildcard in a handful of CT events beforehand). But Mikey’s induction to the Championship Tour was challenging. After sustaining a back injury while surfing in the WQS event at Pipeline in February, Mikey surfed the entire year nursing an injury–without telling anyone! Mikey pushed through the year with true Aussie grit and did what he needed to ensure requalification. He then pulled out of the remaining season to rest and recuperate for the following year. In 2019, Mikey secured a 12th-place season finish after a 3rd at Uluwatu/Margaret River Pro and Keramas CT events. With back problems still lingering, the 2020 tour was canceled anyway due to Covid, and we wouldn’t see professional surfing gain until 2021! For surfing’s return, the season wildcard was decided in a surf-off between Mikey and Leo Firovanti, who both had solid cases to be awarded the injury wildcard. Mikey lost to Leo in a Pipeline “surf-off” but still competed in many events as an injury replacement. In a condensed tour in 2021, due to many covid restrictions, Mikey completed the entire year before deciding to quit the tour to pursue his free surfing entirely. While Mikey was by no means a slouch on the competitive scene, he will be remembered for the intensity of his free surfing. A Unique Style & Personality In a sport that’s so clean, professional, and, let’s face it, a tad boring at times, Mikey’s raw approach, unique style, and personality are a refreshing touch to pro surfing and make the young Aussie stand out. Mikey loves all things Australia, spending his time camping, fishing, and 4WD’’ing in the bush. A fast-paced lifestyle that translates well into the water. With his famous mullet and beard, Mikey wouldn’t look out of place as a Gold Coast tradie but chuck him in the water, and he blows everyone else out of it. When you watch Mikey surf, you never really know what will happen. He charges in serious waves and surfs big waves like me, and you try and surf our 2ft local. Big barrels, smooth carves, and giant airs make up much of his surf edits–he is truly one of the best and most exciting surfers to watch ever. Tap into some Mikey content archives here. Sponsors, Achievements & Net Worth As you’d expect for such a prolific surfing figure, Mikey has gained solid sponsorships and been the face of Quiksilver since the launch of their “Stay High” campaign; a doth of the cap to surfing’s go hard or go home roots. With some high-place finishes in competition and stupidly good free surf edits, Mikey has amassed an estimated net worth of $5 million and represents everything it is to be a top Australian surfer. When Mikey surfs, people watch, which makes him so valuable, in the jersey or otherwise. Final Words While we don’t see Mikey surf as much as we’d like (his career has been plagued by injury, and he’s no longer on the CT), when Mikey posts clips, everyone stops to watch, and that’s how it is. If you’re a fan of big barrels, massive open-face carves, and ridiculously high airs, Mikey is up there with the best in the world. I don’t know the future of Milkey’s surfing, But I do know that when a clip crops up on the social feed, I stop whatever I’m doing and watch, and you should too! Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy and passion of surfing and water sports with enthusiasts around the world. With a deep-rooted love for the ocean and a lifelong … Read more

Uluwatu vs Canggu: Best Bali Surf Destinations

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Bali has been well-established as one of the best surf destinations in the world for decades. A place of good times, good waves, and cheap livin’. While nowadays the island of the gods has lost some of its charm and allure due to its rise in popularity, rapid overdevelopment, and the subsequent hoards, the waves remain the same. The amazing reef breaks around Uluwatu and the beginner-friendly beachies in Canggu are the same today as in the 70s. However, navigating the island is tricky. With so many surf spots to choose from, countless accommodations, and several intricacies that make up a successful trip, it’s a headache. Thankfully, I’ve created this post to narrow things down. Narrow things down so that you’ll know whether Uluwatu or Canggu is right for you. Only the sprawling metropolis of Kuta separates these two iconic surf towns, but each has its characteristics, positive and negative. There is heaps to unpack from each of these Balinese icons. So let’s dive into Uluwatu Vs. Canggu. Uluwatu Overview Perched upon the cliffs on the Bukit Peninsula, Uluwatu is one of Bali’s top breaks and one of Indonesia’s most famous. It’s the very wave that drew surfers from across the globe to visit the island and put Indonesian surfing on their map. On a typical day, the wave is a long peeling left-hander. We’re talking about perfect blue walls reeling endlessly beneath the iconic limestone cliff. With wicked bars, restaurants, and cafes overlooking the waves, Ulu’s is a must-visit Balinese surf destination. Canggu Overview Further North you have Canggu, a thriving surf travel and backpacker favorite which seems to be endlessly expanding. Seriously, every time I go back there, I’m shocked at how much bigger and more developed the place gets. Crazy development aside, Canggu has sick fun waves, from the beginner-friendly rollers at Old Mans to the punchy beach break peaks of Echo Beach, there’s something for everyone. The town is also alive with more shops, bars, and restaurants than you could ever hope to visit in a lifetime trip of trips, let alone one. Uluwatu Vs. Canggu The Waves In Uluwatu, the break is exposed, meaning the place receives tons of swell. The wave itself can be fast, hollow, and powerful, and at low tide, breaks perilously close to the coral below. Throw in the infamous cave paddle out, sharp reef, and crowd factor and you have an intimidating spot for first-timers. Uluwatu breaks anywhere from 2-20ft, and when it’s in the 4-6ft range is a perfect left with multiple sections. Temples at the tops, then the peak, and finally racetracks at then; a lock and loaded freight train barrel speeding over near dry reef. At 20ft the wave transforms into a premier big wave spot where only those with an 8ft gun can take it on. For a beginner on a small day, check out Padang Padang (so good they named it twice) and Dreamlands Beach. Canggu on the other hand, while still super consistent, is nowhere near as exposed and or powerful as its Bukit counterpart. There is a handful of breaks scattered around the Canggu area that suit different abilities. If you’re a beginner or intermediate I’d suggest Old Mans, which is a mellow, series of peaks where fat lines of whitewater roll lazily into shore. Echo Beach, 2 minutes further north, is a stretch of beach more suited to advanced surfers. At one end you have a hollow left-hand reef, and at the other, a long right-hand point. Oh, and there’s a stupidly fun wedgy beachie between the two. The crowds can be insane, so don’t expect to score it by yourself. Tip – On the odd occasion (I think after a huge party night in) you can score relatively uncrowded waves to yourself. Don’t tell anyone your game plan though! The Accommodation In both towns, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodation. Personally, I find Canggu (due to its ever-expanding size) to have more options. From budget backpacker hostels to luxury Airbnb’s, the “Gu” has everything. Uluwatu also has plenty of options, less than Canggu, but for me, anywhere you stay in Bali you can pick and choose your budget, amenities, and location and book whatever you want. Note – During peak season April-October is crazy busy in Bali and many accommodations book out well in advance. The Vibe Canggu is a bustling hub of madness and the vibe is super lively, no matter which day of the week. Each bar in town has its party night, so the place can feel like a never-ending vortex of partying and hecticness. However, Uluwatu, while you can still get a taste of a similar vibe at sunset on the cliff tops, Ulu’s is more spread out and you can find a little more peace. The Amenities Both spots have an abundance of things to do, most notably the hundreds of bars, restaurants, cafes, workplaces, gyms, and interesting cultural sites. Seriously, it’s crazy! If you’re looking to stay, live and work in the tropics, you’ll be hard-pushed to find somewhere better on Earth. Additionally, there are some other epic things to check out. In Ulus, check out Uluwatu Temple at Sunset, just watch out for the monkeys, they’ll steal your sunnies and iPhone. And no I’m not joking and yes it’s happened to me before! Thing to do Canggu Surfing school: Hit the waves at spots like Echo Beach or Batu Bolong Beach. Mount Batur Sunrise Hike: Watch the Mount Batur volcano sunrise which is the best and most popular sunrise in Bali. Explore the Rice Terraces, Monkey Forest and Waterfall: Take a leisurely stroll or bike ride through the lush green rice terraces for a serene and picturesque experience. Visit Tanah Lot Temple: This iconic sea temple is a short drive away from Canggu and offers stunning sunset views over the ocean. Yoga and Wellness: Canggu is home to numerous yoga studios and wellness centers where you can … Read more

Julian Wilson: The Life and Career of a Legendary Pro Surfer

June 5, 2023by Luke Morris

Julian Wilson is one of the most stylish surfers ever, a surfer who combines perfect technique and flow with modern progression. An elite surfer for the past two decades and one of the best to watch, and although he never pinched a world title (damn it, Medina), Julian was a regular top 10 feature on the CT. With stand-out performances at the heaviest tour stops, Julian showed prowess in waves of consequence to back his high-performance surfing. Throw in his show-stopping movie parts, and you have one of the best and most influential surfers ever. Julian’s surfing will stand the test of time and in this post, we dive into the life of Julian. From his upbringing and early rise to fame to how he secured one of the biggest sponsorship deals in surfing. We’ll also check out why Julian retired and what he’s up to now in and out of the water. It’s been an illustrious career, which means we have a lot to get through. Let’s get down to it. Julian Wilson’s Early Life & Rise to Fame Julian had what most would consider the perfect surfing upbringing. Born and raised in Coolum Beach, Queensland, Jualin grew up around a family of keen surfers and what can only be described as the perfect environment for a budding surfer. Warm water year-round, a scattering of fun beach breaks, and Noosa’s dreamy point break just a short drive up the coast–a combination that would pave the way for young Julian. At a super young age, Wilson drew the eyes of sponsorships after competing in regional and national events as a grom and wowing with progressive surfing and a style well beyond his years. Julian would enter all categories in these events, taking out the longboard category, smashing the junior division, and well in the men’s as well. Wilson joined Quiksilver at a super young age and became the face of the brand alongside Kelly Slater, Jeremy Flores, and Freddy Pattachia. After a successful junior career and incredible free surfing, Jules was getting traction from around the world. Spending more and more time away from school; surfing on boat trips alongside his heroes and competing on the WQS, Julian reached his destiny, the World Championship Tour. However, after qualifying, Julian decided to take a year off to film his signature movie “Julian Wilson: Scratching the Surface”. Which, if you haven’t seen it, I’d drop what you’re doing, and check it out now. Julian, confident he would qualify after a year off, went back on the WQS and did exactly that. Julain’s Career, Highlights & Achievements Wilson spent the best part of two decades as a regular fixture in the top 10 on the Championship Tour. After filming his hit movie, Julian went all in and hard into the competitive scene. He finished 9th in his first year; winning the coveted Rookie of the Year award with solid performances at major world tour locations. In 2012, he backed up his first year, showing everyone that his first year at the highest level wasn’t a fluke and that he was there to stay–making a real charge for the title. He finished 9th again in 2012 and took out the Rip Curl Pro Portugal as his maiden event win. In 2014, Julian won one of the hardest and most prestigious events to win on the entire CT roster–The Billabong Pipe Masters. Julian impressed everyone with a fearless performance at heavy first reef Pipeline, not that he needed to prove anything in big surf after some incredible tow waves at the Teahupoo Code Red swell the year previous. After surfing for Quicksilver for a decade, Julain was offered a huge contract from Nike, after the sports brand entered surfing and Julian was treated like a true sports star, up there with Tiger Woods and the top basketballers of the time. You can watch more about one of the biggest contracts in surfing, in Stab Magazine’s How Surfers Get Paid). It’s an epic watch! Julian took out The Triple Crown of surfing in 2014, the Billabong Pro Teahupoo in 2017, the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast in 2018, and the Quiksilver Pro France in 2018. What a year! Unfortunately, he was pipped to the post by Gabriel Medina for the world title in 2018. After a competitive break due to Covid in 2020, Julian represented Australia at the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 (2021) but again lost to Brazilian Medina, in round 3 of the men’s shortboard event. Julian then retired after the Olympics, aged 33. The decision came as somewhat of a shock to some, but Julian stated the decision was to pursue a life outside of surfing, spend time with his family, and a decision that made him, quote; “The happiest I’ve ever been.” Julian Wilson’s Personal Life & Interests Julain is a strong advocate for breast cancer as his mom overcame the disease and Julain stands alongside fellow Australian Jackson Baker as an advocate. Often riding pink boards and wearing pink boardshorts to raise awareness. He is also strongly behind a number of environmental causes helping to protect the coast around Australia and the world. Julian also loves cricket, skateboarding, and dirt biking! Wilson is married to model Ahsley Osborne, and the pair have two young daughters. After retiring and spending more time with his girls, Julian started the surf and lifestyle brand Rivvia project, to create “surf gear that I actually feel comfortable in when performing. Today & The Future of Julian Wilson It’s no doubt that Julain is and has been one of the most influential surfers of our time. An Australian great with CT event wins and movie sports to back it. While we don’t see Julain surf as much as we used to, we can still delve into the archives and check out movies like Lost Atlas and Scartching the Surfcae, hen surfing was very much at its peak financially and in my option, movie production-wise. Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an … Read more

Surfing in Mexico: The Best Spots for Surfers

June 5, 2023by Dan Harmon

Mexico is easily one of the best surfing destinations in the world. The country has over 4500 miles of coastline and offers the perfect weather, beautiful beaches, and the perfect relaxed beach vibe for a surfing getaway. With so much coastline, Mexico is a good place for all surf skill levels to find the perfect wave. Most beach towns cater to both beginners and advanced surfers. The East and West coasts provide some top surfing conditions in some of the most stunning settings in the world. We will go into everything surfing and Mexico, looking at when the surf is good and all that you will need to keep in mind before heading on your Mexican surf trip. We also look at the top surf spots in Mexico, from the top beaches and lines for experienced surfers to the ultimate learn-to-swim beaches with excellent surf schools and rentals available. The Best Surfing Spots In Mexico Mexico is a land of sun and sea with large swathes of coastline, making it excellent for surf vacations. Be it a newbie or a skilled surfer, there is a Mexican beach for everyone. Let’s take a look at the most pleasant surf destinations in Mexico and what they have to offer. Sayulita Located on the Riviera Nayarit, Sayulita is an excellent surfing spot for all surf competency levels. The town is the quintessential Mexican beach town with cobbled streets and various bars and coffee cafés lining it. Cacti abound, and hotels and surf hostels make for the perfect Mexican surf vacation spot. The coast in this area provides a fantastic shoreline that offers beginner-friendly stretches of the beach and reefs and point breaks that offer more advanced surfing opportunities. The best surf spot for the more skilled surfer is located out of Sayulita but still within easy reach, so there is always an option for half day trip to catch the better waves. While you are unlikely to catch your dream wave in Sayulita if you’re traveling with a group with varying skills, this beach is one of the best spots to allow everyone a chance to enjoy the surfing holiday, particularly as Sayulita is known for its consistent waves in the Sayulita Right. The town offers well-priced surf schools, relaxed, authentic Mexican beach vibes, warm water, and fantastic weather. On the downside, Sayulita is becoming more crowded and can get super busy during peak vacation times. Hotel prices are also pricey, so surf hostels are your best option for accommodation if you’re on a budget. Puerto Escondido Puerto Escondido is the Mexican surfing Mecca. The beach offers amazing waves of a variety that allows for both beginner and professional surfers. Waves are seasonal, with the bigger Mexican Pipeline or Playa Zicatela only being in evidence during summer from May to June. Zicatela should only be attempted by those skilled and able to handle being barreled, as the waves are large and hollow. Wipeouts can be spectacular at this spot, so you have been warned. La Punta offers a less aggressive set and is excellent for advanced and intermediate surfers. Carrizalillo is a stunning bay in Peurto Escondido that offers a safe and chilled playground for beginners. The town is well equipped for surfing vacations and offers many hotels and hostels that are locally owned, as well as beachfront cafés and eateries. Los Cabos Los Cabos, more commonly called Cabo, is a top vacation town that provides some great swells and a party atmosphere. This is one the best spots to come if you have non-surfers in the group, as they will have endless things to keep themselves busy on the beach while you’re out shredding the waves. Los Cabos has waves for everyone, from beginners to pros, and the party vibe makes for a vibrant and fun experience. There are nine good spots with varying levels of difficulty. Todos Santos is best for more skilled surfers, with beginners being able to find safer waters in Playa San Pedro. Costa Azul provides the best breaks in the area, and locals will hang out here. Ensenada Found in Notre Baja, Ensenada is located on the North West Mexican coastline and is only 67 miles from the US. The town acts as a home base and jump-off point to various top surf spots that occur along a 40-mile stretch of the coast. And they are top surf spots, with some of the most consistent wave breaks in the area during the summer and winter months. Calafia offers waves for all skill sets, although it gets crowded thanks to its close proximity to the US. San Miguel is the birthplace of surfing in Mexico and offers a good lineup of activities for the more experienced, although beginners can still get some practice closer to shore. El-Morro and Las Gaviotas offer a more chilled, mellow wave option and are better for beginner and intermediate-skilled surfers. The best waves come through in winter. Mazatlán Mazatlán is one of the most scenic towns on the Mexican coastline. It exudes old-world charm, and the town itself is worth visiting to enjoy the Centro Historico’s architecture. The surf is superb, and the swell can be depended upon all year round, although if you’re looking for top-notch waves, you may need to wait for the summer SW swell from June to August. The beaches are long and offer all three, beach breaks, reef breaks, and point break waves. The town is a bowl on the coast, providing beaches facing North, South, and West so the swells stay intact year-round. Playa Bruja is the best surf spot in the area and is the favored spot amongst the locals, thanks to its sound waves. Olas Atlas is excellent, although more for its close proximity to the old town; the waves are average, although, on big days, you can expect to be dumped. Olas Atlas is nonetheless a fantastic beach that opens out from the old town suddenly. Playa Cerritos provides beginners with a long … Read more

How To Plan a Surf Trip | Advice from a Surf Travel Guru

June 2, 2023by Dan Harmon

man loading black bag in back of suv, showing how to plan a surf trip

Ahhh, the surf trip. Whether you’re heading off on your maiden surf venture or you’re already a seasoned swell chaser, nothing beats the feeling. The feeling of having your flights and accommodation booked, knowing that you’re going. After you’ve gawked at every photo, watched every video clip, and read every blog post on your destination. All those months of dreaming and planning your surf trip become a reality. However, a successful trip goes beyond Googling a place to death and jumping on the next flight. While a few mishaps and unexpected events are part and parcel of a great surf trip, you’ve got to come away with some stories, right? You still want to minimize risk and choose a destination suited to your ability and bank balance. This is where excellent planning comes in. So you can reduce risk and choose the best destination to suit your needs, this article breaks down everything you need to know to plan a surf trip. Stop sitting there wondering, ‘How Do I Plan a Surf Trip?’ and let’s dive into everything through the entire surf trip planning process, from choosing the perfect destination appropriate to your ability, the best time of year, what to pack, and what to have in place pre-departure. A lot goes into the perfect surf trip, so let’s dive right in. Choosing Your Destination Your destination can make or break your trip; this is the most important factor in planning your trip. Choosing the right destination is tricky because there are hundreds to choose from, but some crucial considerations include: Your Ability Some countries and specific areas are renowned for particular wave types. For instance, West Australia is synonymous with slabs, big waves, and sharks, while in contrast, Sri Lanka is known for its mellow beginner-friendly beachies and forgiving pointbreaks. So you want to choose somewhere that aligns with your ability. However, most of the world’s best destinations have a variety of spots for all abilities. Ultimately, you want a place that: You enjoy You feel comfortable in Allows for some surf progression These are all factors that contribute to the enjoyment of your trip. Next up, your bank balance. (eek). Your Budget Your bank balance plays a significant role in where and how you travel. Always select a destination based on the cost of living. Destinations such as the Maldives or the Mentawaii islands have incredible waves but are among the most expensive surf destinations on Earth. On the other hand, places like Morocco, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and Mexico are much more affordable, and you can score two weeks of world-class waves for under USD $1000. Pretty cool, right? Your Time We’d all love to pick and choose when and where we go, but time-constraint is often a huge factor in where you go on a surf trip and for how long. Life gets in the way, work and family commitments take priority, and it leaves you with only 1-2 weeks a year to chase waves. And that’s if you’re lucky. Therefore it’s critical to maximize your time. You don’t want to sacrifice wave quality, but choosing a destination close to home, as it doesn’t take three days to get there, allows you to spend more time in the water (hopefully in the tube) and less time in the airport. For example, if you’re in North America, Mexico, or Nicaragua would make sense, while for Aussies, Indonesia is great! Sick waves and only a few hours on the plane. It saves money and time! Now we know the factors you must consider pre-trip, let’s discover some of the best surf trip destinations and why they’re so good. Choosing The Best Destination The following countries aren’t chosen based purely on wave quality; I have hand-picked these because they have the best blend of great waves for all abilities, accessibility, culture, and affordability. Mexico It’s no secret Mexico has some of the best waves in the world, and surfers have been flocking there for decades. The country has everything, from thumping beach breaks to perfect right points and even beginner-friendly a-frames; the place has it all. Throw in a massive variety of spots, friendly locals, epic food, and low-cost climbing, and you have everything you need for a wicked surf trip. Best time to go? Mexico’s surf season runs from April to October; the biggest swells happen, and the country’s premier breaks light up. However, Mexico has excellent waves all year round. A rule of thumb is that the South works best from April to October, while the North is better from October to April. Best Breaks Puerto Escondido – Playa Zicatela for advanced surfers looking to get tubed. There’s also a beginner-friendly left point and reef in town! Barra de la Cruz – perfect right point for advanced surfers to get tubes and rip into Sayulita – The perfect beginner surf destination and epic for longboarders. There’s a wicked vibe in town, and the beaches are beautiful. Indonesia Indonesia has more waves than you could hope to ride in one lifetime. Seriously, it’s ridiculous how wave rich the archipelago is! From the well-known breaks of Uluwatu, Lakey Peak, and Kuta Beach to the world-class Mentawaii islands and some lesser-known corners, Indo has it all! Best time to go? Indeosmais surf season runs between April and October. This is when large long-period south swells march up from the south Indian Ocean and wrap into the various reefs across the archipelago. Best Breaks Kuta Beach – The original beginner-friendly beach break in the heart of Bali! Kuta Lombok – Lombok’s surfing hub, incredible spot variety, and a wave for all abilities The Mentawaii – Hundreds of perfect waves scattered across a paradisical island chain. For advanced surfers looking to get the waves of their life. Costa Rica From North America, Costa Rica is the perfect surf trip destination, offering a wealth of forgiving breaks for beginners and punchy beachies for advanced surfers; the country also provides safety, accessibility, and … Read more

Can Longboards Surf Big Waves?

June 1, 2023by Luke Morris

The global prevalence of longboards has exploded over the previous decade, mainly due to their practicality, functionality, and ease of use when surfing over slower and smaller waves. Modern longboards are typically wider, longer, heavier, and more cumbersome than traditional shortboards. Longboards can technically be used to surf big waves, but it is not recommended. While longboards can be used for surfing big waves, their lengthy, functional, and passive design makes them difficult to maneuver, increasing the chance of severe injury. Longboards are intended to function optimally when traversing smaller, slower waves found in calmer waters. are an inexperienced surfer or longboarder, experts recommend using one of the traditional shorter surfboards when surfing big, fast, and powerful waves. However, you can safely use your longboard to surf bigger waves in an unexpected emergency. To guarantee your safety and enjoyment, it is vital to use the correct equipment when surfing, as this article will detail. Are Longboards Practical For Surfing Big Waves? Longboards are not practical for surfing bigger, faster, and more powerful waves as they were originally designed to operate effortlessly in slower, smaller, and less forceful waves. While longboards can occasionally handle bigger waves, modern iterations were not intended to continuously traverse the power, speed, or gradient associated with larger waves. However, longboards measuring between nine and ten feet in length can be utilized by experienced surfers to surf in big wave conditions, although this is not recommended for their inexperienced counterparts. It is said that with the correct equipment and technique, longboards can be an optimal tool to handle some of the largest and most powerful waves imaginable. At the same time, before you attempt to surf big, fast, and powerful waves with a longboard, there are several important considerations to initially account for. It is incredibly challenging to duck under waves, paddle out, and glide down steep inclines using a traditional longboard. In addition, you must master the fundamentals of big wave and nose-ride surfing before attempting to take your longboard out into larger, more powerful waters. It is worthwhile noting that modern longboards function optimally in waves of between one and four feet. Most operational longboards can be found in locations such as Hawaii and California, with their notable lull between more forceful swells being ideal. Since longboards have more volume, are longer, and are significantly heavier compared to shorter surfboards, they offer users unparalleled stability and forgiveness in calmer waters. Moreover, longboards are usually easier to operate and become accustomed to, making it perfect for inexperienced people to learn how to surf. Are Longboards Or Shortboards Better For Big Wave Surfing? Short surfboards are the better option for most people concerning big-wave surfing as they offer significantly enhanced control, maneuverability, and agility compared to modern longboards. Traditionally, shorter surfboards are manufactured in a narrower, more streamlined, and shorter shape. The designs typically associated with shortboards enable them to maneuver instantly in any direction, ideal for having as much control as possible during critical moments while surfing big, steep, and powerful waves. At the same time, big-wave surfers prefer highly specialized surfboards known as tow boards or gun boards. Generally, these surfboards are considered shortboards as their unique shaping allows them to handle the unmatched intense forces associated with rapidly moving big waves. It should be noted that while shortboards are usually preferred when surfing bigger, faster waves, longboards can be utilized if necessary. Despite being impractical for high-velocity big-wave surfing, longboards can technically handle big waves if utilized correctly by an experienced surfer. Additionally, the likelihood of experiencing severe injury while big wave surfing is significantly increased when using longboards. Longboards are not considered unsafe; however, they are substantially more difficult to maneuver quickly, which makes control at crucial moments during the big wave surfing near impossible for most surfers. While shortboards are accepted as being more practical regarding big-wave surfing, the ultimate decision should be taken per your current surfing skill level, confidence, and state of mind. Taking risks during big-wave surfing can quickly lead to unnecessary disasters, severe injury, and even death. Tips For Using A Longboard To Surf Big Waves Safety is the most important aspect of using a longboard to surf big waves. The sheer size, weight, and volume associated with modern longboards make them hazardous projectiles for inexperienced surfers. There are numerous tips for using a longboard to surf big waves, depending on your skill and experience levels. However, there are five fundamental aspects every longboard surfer should remember while attempting to catch big, powerful, and fast waves: Remember to wear a certified, high-quality leash, which is commonly thought of as the most vital piece of safety equipment for kite surfers while on the waves. Always maintain an appropriate distance from any crowded peaks or fellow swimmers, as the volume, weight, and length associated with modern longboards render them a significant safety risk. Maintain perfect situational awareness while watching your back to ensure the safety of surrounding surfers. Give preference to shortboard surfers when big waves are hard to come by. You should never kick out in a flashy, stylish, or reckless manner, as the longboard’s weight could easily cause severe injury or even death. While catching and riding big waves using a longboard is more challenging, it is possible with relatively little practice. When using a longboard to ride big and powerful waves, it is vital to catch the wave as early as possible before it breaks. If the wave breaks while attempting to catch it, you will be thrown over the front, as longboards cannot safely surf down steep wave faces. Catching big waves early, maintaining a knee-bent position, and staying relaxed is the best approach when using longboards, as they will allow you to pinpoint the optimal portion of the board for your feet to be placed for enhanced maneuverability. Once you are comfortable catching larger, steeper, and more powerful waves, you can implement the drop knee technique, cross-stepping, and riding the nose to make … Read more

Feed Your Stoke. Join the Surf Hungry Crew