Surfing: Ride Waves, Experience Thrills & Conquer New Height

Most Famous Surf Gangs in the World (Updated)

January 19, 2022by Luke Morris

According to NOAA, the United States’ shoreline (including coastal states and other territories) is 95,471 miles long. Out of those are hundreds of public beaches. But sadly, only a few of them have sizeable waves that are perfect for surfing. Because of this, local surfers can be territorial about their surf breaks. Surf gangs are norms in places where great waves are rare. Their members aren’t afraid to use fear and fists to intimidate tourists and surfers visiting their turf. But surf gangs, apart from their notorious reputations, have an important role in the surfing culture. They maintain order and avoid overpopulation on local surf breaks. In this post, we’ll let you in on the other side of surfing that not a lot of people know of. The worlds of the most famous surf gangs are complicated and dangerous, but we’ll tell you everything you need to know about them. What are surf gangs? Surfing isn’t all fun and games. It has a dark side, and surf gangs are right at the center of it. As a novice surfer, being caught up in their radar is something you don’t want to experience. A wrong wetsuit or kind of board may put you in a tough spot because these people will not think twice about resorting to verbal and physical threats just to intimidate you. Surf gangs are the result of localism, or also known as the aggressiveness of locals towards the most crowded surfing spots. It started in Southern California in the 1960s wherein the locals were hostile and belligerent towards the surfers from San Fernando Valley. Over time, the natives formed their own groups consisting of all-local surfers. Their goal: to vandalize, intimidate, stir-up trouble, and incite violence to foreigners. If they don’t like you, they’d ask you to leave the beach even before you get to touch the waters, and if you cause trouble in the lineup, it’s possible that you get into a terrible ‘accident’. Surf gangs have caused gang wars, violence, and even death, but why are the local police not interfering with these crimes? It’s quite known that even the law enforcers fear them because they are known for taking acts of revenge and retributions. Sure, non-locals view surf gangs as menacing and threatening, but to locals, these people are quite harmless. The thing is, most gang fights occur because of overcrowded territories and disrespectful surfers. Surf gangs are there to act as reminders for tourists to behave on local beaches. They are there to protect and defend their beach towns and shores. The Most Famous Surf Gangs in the World Da Hui a.k.a The Black Shorts The Da Hui of the North Shore, or also known as the “Club of Wave Riders” or the “Hui O He’e Nalu” in Hawaiian, sets the bar when it comes to surf gangs. They’re the original and are considered the most dangerous. And as per The Offspring’s song, “I won’t fuck with Da Hui. Because Da Hui will fuck with me.” This surf gang is founded by Eddie Rothman, Clyde Aikau, Bryan Amona, and Kawika Stant Sr. in 1976. Today, Da Hui consists of around 400 members. They’re known for their uniform surf attire that they’ve developed later on into their own clothing brand. Da Hui started as a club to see-through contests, but they turned out to be too aggressive to the non-native contestants. During that time, corporate businesses are slowly taking over the North Shore’s high-quality waves, and in the events being held, Hawaiians were being excluded. In order to protest, the Da Hui members paddled out the beach and refused to leave. Because of Da Hui’s goal to preserve their beach breaks from outsiders, foreigners have always felt that they’re unwelcome on the North Shore. One incident that this surf gang is famous for is the Busting Down the Door Saga, wherein their members had beaten up an Australian surf team who disrespected their surf customs. Although this group can be aggressive when they want to get their points across, Da Hui cares for their local community. They organize events, such as the Da Hui Easter egg hunt and the paddle racing that’s held every July 4th. Watch this video below to see how Da Hui has influenced the surfers on the North Shore. Bra Boys The Bra Boys is one of the most violent and notorious surf gangs in the world, with some of their members being charged with murder, assault, rape, and organized crimes among others. Founded in the 1990s, the Bra Boys was formed in the suburbs of Maroubra in Australia. They are known internationally because of the documentary the members themselves have written and directed — ‘Bra Boys: Blood is Thicker Than Water’. This docu-film features their history, from how they grew up in impoverished backgrounds and lived in public housing projects. It also features how their mutual love for surfing and community connections brought them all together. The Bra Boys’ name came from Maroubra, and ‘bra’, which is slang for ‘brother’. Members of this gang are characterized by their chest tattoos that say, “My Brother’s Keeper”, and the postcode of Maroubra ‘2035’ written at their backs. They’re known for being territorial towards the Sydney reef break ‘Cape Solander’, which they also refer to as ‘Ours’. The Bra Boys consist of North Maroubra surf riders, professional rugby players, and cage fighters. Among their most famous members are Reni Maitua, John Sutton, Vaculik, Evan Faulke, Mark Matthews, and the renowned Abberton brothers — Sunny, Jai, and Koby. Koby Abberton is a talented, big-wave surfer who’s won quite an amount of awards in his career. His charm earned him a celebrity status that’s bumped elbows with other famous people like Paris Hilton and Russell Crowe. However, like the other members, he’s also associated with crimes such as perverting the course of justice wherein he was jailed for it for nine months and assaulting an officer that cost him three days in jail. Meanwhile, his … Read more

Why Do You Wax A Surfboard?

January 6, 2022by Luke Morris

If you’ve just bought a new surfboard, the last thing you want to do is smear some gunky wax all over it and “ruin” its gleaming, smooth surface. But, unless you bought the board solely for display purposes, you’ll have to do precisely that. So, why do you wax a surfboard? Is it really necessary to smear its smooth surface with wax? Yes, it is essential to wax your surfboard. A surfboard isn’t all you need in surfing but waves and wax, too. The wax on your board determines whether you have a good session or a bad one. Read along to understand the need to wax your surfboard. This article explains everything about the wax’s relation to your surfboard and what it does to your performance. Why Do You Wax A Surfboard? When wet, surfboards are slippery. The most significant way to ensure that you don’t slip off your board in varied water temperatures is to apply wax to your board. The texture of a soft top’s deck changes when exposed to cold and warm water. Applying a layer of wax to your board can help you maintain a higher level of traction in all conditions. In short, nothing holds you to the board save a small layer of wax for grip. How Is A Wax For Surfboard Made? Paraffin, beeswax, and other hard waxes are used to make surf wax. Every company has its own top-secret, sticky formula. Because the major component – paraffin – is produced from oil, which is not the most environmentally friendly product, natural substitutes such as beeswax, vegetable oils, pine resin, soy, and others are now being employed. Are There Different Types of Wax For Different Temperatures? Yes. Waxes naturally tend to become soft at higher temperatures and hard at lower temperatures. That is why different waxes are required for different temperatures. Each wax has the perfect hardness/tackiness point at a different temperature range. A higher-temperature surf wax is required for surfers who live in more tropical locations (such as Hawaii or Australia). In different environments, surf wax is necessary for individuals surfing in cooler climes. Let’s have a look at the various temperatures so you’ll be prepared when the time comes. Cold Water Wax If you plan on surfing in temps of 60 degrees or lower (don’t forget to wear a wetsuit), cold-water wax is recommended. This is meant to keep your board in the best possible condition, even when the weather drops below freezing. Keep this wax in a cool, dry place to prevent it from melting in hot weather. It’s also vital to avoid using it in hotter or tropical locations because it won’t be able to endure the heat. The majority of surf brands provide their popular selections in various temperatures. This implies you won’t have to swap brands to get a good product at a different temperature. If you live in a colder climate, your local store will most likely have the right product; similarly, if you live in a tropical environment, you’ll most likely discover tropical and warm wax. Cool Water Wax Cool surf wax is suitable for water temperatures ranging from 58 to 68 degrees. Cool Water Wax mixtures perform well in cooler conditions to retain grip and traction, but they won’t hold up as well when the weather warms up. Warm Water Wax Warm water wax is required for water temperatures ranging from 58 to 75 degrees. Because these are less resistant to high temperatures, following the manufacturer’s instructions is critical for maximum board traction. Tropical Water Wax If you plan on surfing in waters that are 75 degrees or above, you’ll need a tropical surf wax to preserve your board traction. These are made to resist higher temperatures, so they won’t melt when it becomes too hot outside or when exposed to direct sunshine. In addition, these temperatures are often more challenging to work with than other wax temperatures. Wax Application Knowing when and how to apply surf wax is critical to a successful surfing session. For starters, if you don’t apply enough wax, staying upright on your board will be tough, if not impossible. This is especially critical for newcomers who are still learning the ropes. On the other hand, putting too much wax on your board can make it overly slippery. This is essentially a waste of wax because you’ll be right back where you started—except with a dirty board to clean. When To Apply Surf Wax “One board, one wax job,” as the saying goes, which sounds fantastic but in practice probably means getting a new quiver of boards every few months, which we think you don’t. The majority of surfers like to wax their surfboards before each session. Obviously, this will build up to a thick, heavy, grey layer of ungrippy wax that will need to be replaced over time. Whether you have OCD or not, the frequency with which you wax your surfboard will vary, but in general, de-waxing with the change of the seasons (4 times per year) or every time you go on a surf trip should be enough. It’s also worth considering whether a fast combing with a wax comb is preferable to apply more wax. How Far Forward Should You Wax A Surfboard? To catch the front foot on those frontside fin chuck/tail blasts, surfers like John John Florence wax almost all the way to the nose. You won’t be doing many of those in a typical session, but you could want to get forward into small tubes. It’s better to have the wax all the way up to the nose and not need it than to be slipping and sliding away if you need it. Choosing The Best Surf Wax Aside from water temperature, there are a few things you should consider in picking the best surf wax. Here’s all you need to know about surf waxes if you’ve mixed up your base and top coats and don’t know where to start! Basecoat … Read more

What Are Lifeguard Flags? | Understanding Beach Warnings

December 23, 2021by Luke Morris

The beach is an ever-changing and dynamic environment. It might be enjoyable, but it can also be unpredictable and dangerous for those who are unaware of its potential dangers. This is why professional lifeguards who know their way around the beach utilize a system of lifeguard flags and signs to inform visitors about the crucial information they need to know. Understanding lifeguard flags can easily differentiate a lazy and enjoyable afternoon at the beach from a traumatic trip to the emergency room. What are lifeguard flags? Read on to find out what each color means for your day at the beach and more. What Are Lifeguard Flags? Lifeguard Flags have been used by lifeguard agencies in the US and worldwide for decades to inform swimmers of conditions, warn of hazards, mark safer swimming zones, and inform beachgoers about regulated areas. The Worldwide Life Saving Federation produced international warning flag criteria in 2004 to maintain global consistency. The International Standards Organization has partly adopted these rules, and the USLA (United States Lifesaving Association) endorsed them. By adhering to these warning flag rules regularly, lifeguard agencies may guarantee that everyone understands what they mean and improve their effectiveness. These flags are only allowed to be used on beaches when USLA-certified lifeguards are on duty. Flags are not a replacement for adequately trained and equipped rescuers; instead, they are tools to employ around the coast. How Do Lifeguard Flags Work? To be truly effective, the usage of warning flags to alert the public to current hazard levels must be constant, based on objective, measurable criteria that can be registered, tracked, and then adjusted when conditions change. They should be accompanied by initiatives to educate people about the significance of the lifeguard flags. The state of the ocean varies across the United States. In some regions, conditions that are deemed mild may be viewed as a serious safety issue in others. As a result, the USLA recommends that particular local criteria be devised in each location where lifeguard flags are used and that the public be made aware of such measures. Lifeguard Flag Definitions Here are the most common lifeguard flags you may need to understand and heed to keep you safe in the waters and make the most of your beach trip. Yellow Flag The danger level is moderate. There are moderate waves or currents. The entry of weak swimmers into the water is discouraged. Others should be treated with extra caution and attention. Yellow flags indicate that it’s going to be a hard day in the waves, that there are significant waves, or that there’s a small rip current. We encourage adult supervision at all times in yellow flag conditions (or actually any surf conditions). If there are kids, make sure they’re wearing life vests. The most prevalent type of flag seen is the yellow flag. Before swimming in an area with a yellow flag, you should take safety measures. Red Flag There is a significant risk. The presence of a red flag denotes that the surf is particularly hazardous. This could be due to large waves, severe rip currents, or other potentially dangerous situations. Unless you are a really skilled swimmer, you should avoid going into the ocean when the red flag is flying. If you really must go out under red flag circumstances, do not enter the water with children, and always swim with a friend. Finally, this flag means that you should only swim at your own risk, and even then, you should proceed with extreme caution. The red sign indicates a “High hazard,” as defined by the ILSA. Double Red The ILSA describes a red flag above another red flag as “Extremely high hazard. Water is closed to public use.” This flag is only displayed in the most severe surf conditions. In these situations, we strongly advise avoiding entering the sea. At all costs, avoid entering into surf conditions with double red flags. Purple There are marine pests such as jellyfish, stingrays, and other marine species that can cause mild injury in the ocean. It would be best to surf at your own risk with purple flags. Before entering, always check with your lifeguard because marine pests could range from bioluminescent algae to Box Jellyfish. We strongly advise against entering purple flag situations. The sting of a hazardous jellyfish can be lethal. However, note that this flag does not indicate the presence of sharks. Red/Yellow (Halved Red Over Halved Yellow) This flag means Lifeguards are stationed in the vicinity. These flags can be used in pairs to signify a defined area or zone along a beach or waterfront that is most closely overseen or patrolled by qualified lifeguards and where swimming and surfing are allowed. These flags can be used individually to indicate that swimming is permitted in front of the flagged area and that a qualified lifeguard supervises the area. Black/White (Quartered) These lifeguard flags can be used in pairs to identify a specified area or zone along a beach or waterfront for people who use surfboards and other non-powered watercraft. The conditions are ideal for surfing in this area, and the flag warns non-surfers to stay away to keep both surfers and beachgoers safe. Yellow With Central Black Ball This lifeguard flag means non-powered watercraft, such as surfboards, are prohibited. Orange Windsock This cone-shaped lifeguard flag is used to show the direction of offshore winds and that using inflatable objects in the ocean is dangerous. Red/White (Quartered) The quartered red and white lifeguard flag means emergency evacuation is required. In the event of an emergency, swimmers should exit the water. Emergencies can include but are not limited to the presence of dangerous marine species, such as sharks, contaminated water, or lifeguards performing a search of the water area, such as looking for a lost child. (Alternatively, the double red flag could be used.) Safety Tips Supervise Children at All Times It’s critical to keep an eye on kids and young adults at all times. They … Read more

What Is Adaptive Surfing? | Ocean’s Power to Heal

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Bethany Hamilton was 13 years old when she went for a morning surf on Kauai’s Tunnels Beach with her best friend Alana Blanchard and Alana’s father and brother. While lying on her surfboard belly-down and conversing with Alana, a 14-foot-long (4.3 m) tiger shark attacked her. Her left arm, which she had been dangling in the water just below the shoulder, was quickly bitten off by the shark. The very same arm she needed to paddle and balance while perfecting her surfing tricks – gone in a blink of an eye. Everyone was left wondering how she’d surf and if she’d ever surf again. She did and even won awards. Hamilton refers to herself as an “adaptive” athlete. But what is adaptive surfing and an adaptive athlete, you ask? This article brings the answers to that and more. What Is Adaptive Surfing? Adaptive surfing is simply defined as riding ocean waves toward the shore on a surfboard while overcoming a physical limitation. But, to the global community of adaptive surfers, the hundreds of local and international organizations that support the sport, and the army of volunteers who devote their time to adaptive surfing events, adaptive surfing means a lot more. Adaptive surfing means – surfers leaving their wheelchairs and crutches behind to hit the waves. It is making surfing more accessible to youngsters and adults because of advancements in board modifications, bespoke prosthetics, and the warmth of wetsuits. Adaptive Surfing: Leisure, Competition, or Therapy Adaptive surfing is an outdoor sport that takes place in a natural, dynamic, and physically demanding setting. Compared to other typical adaptive water sports, shifting waves, rip currents, tides, and the beach appear to be a new method (such as swimming, rowing, or sailing). Adaptive surfing can be divided into three broad categories of treatments based on this foundation: sports leisure and play, competition and high performance, and therapeutic technic or rehabilitation proposals. In the first category, adaptive surfing as leisure can be found in various casual settings, such as sports tourism, recreational activities, or simply free-time or weekend pursuits. At the competitive level, the adaptive surfer’s high performance and results are considered. It has a more formal commitment since the sports practitioner becomes a professional athlete, adhering to the tight training, feeding, and resting standards to concentrate on competition results. The adaptive surfer is focused on achieving greater results than other surfers in this form of intervention at a competitive level. The last category is a therapeutic intervention. This is similar to the previous one because its particular motor, psychological, and social skills must be met. Although the surfer/patient is focused on achieving better results in this type of intervention, he focuses on his rehabilitation and social inclusion. He achieves all these by realizing independence and functional autonomy in his daily living, rather than outperforming the other surfer. Who Can Surf? Anyone, especially those with particular requirements, such as those with a disability, who require extra support, specialized equipment, or an adapted surfing experience to fit their abilities, can do adaptive surfing. Impairment Type Athletes must have a physical or visual disability to compete. And, in order to compete, athletes must have a classification. Classification Adaptive Surfing has six divisions: OPEN AS 1 (Stand/Kneel – Upper Limb Amputees, BK Amputees) OPEN AS 2 (Stand/Kneel – Kneel, AK Amputees) OPEN Visually Impaired OPEN Upright (Waveski) OPEN Prone OPEN Assist Each division has its own set of categories that must be met to compete. How To Get Classified Each participant’s application will be reviewed by the ISA Adaptive Surfing Classification Review Committee, which will determine their eligibility for adaptive surfing events. Adaptive Surfing on Global Stage The 4th annual World Adaptive Surfing Championship, held in early December 2018 in La Jolla, CA, with a record-breaking 120 players representing 24 national para-surfing teams, demonstrated the rise of adaptive surfing. The International Surfing Association (ISA), the same governing organization responsible for including surfing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, hosted the four-day event. In total, 12 individual world champions were crowned in six categories, including Team USA’s first-ever overall team gold medal. The popularity of the competitive side of the sport is at an all-time high, thanks to the ISA’s continued efforts to have Adaptive Surfing included in the 2028 Paralympics in Los Angeles. This level of excitement and intensity is not exclusive to great athletes. It also includes the growing number of people who want to experience the healing power of the ocean on their first wave, as well as others who are returning to surfing after spinal cord injuries that have changed their lives. The ISA (International Surfing Association) The International Olympic Committee recognizes the International Surfing Association (ISA) as the World Governing Authority for Surfing. Shortboard, Longboard, Bodyboarding, StandUp Paddle (SUP) Racing and Surfing, Para-Surfing, Bodysurfing, Wakesurfing, and other wave riding activities on any wave or flat water using wave riding equipment are all governed and defined by the ISA. They aim to use surfing to make the world a better place by promoting, developing, and leading surfing in all of its forms worldwide while also uniting the global surfing community and promoting accessibility and universal involvement. The Birth of Adaptive Surfing Jesse Billauer was one of the best junior surfers in the world in 1996, and he was going to compete professionally. Billauer struck a shallow sandbar headfirst while surfing his local break in Malibu, CA, shattering his 6th vertebrae and rendering him paraplegic. But it was his road back to being able to surf that paved the way for those who have been paralyzed to have access to surfing. Life Rolls On, Billauer’s non-profit group, presented its first event, “They Will Surf Again,” in 2001. LRO took a step into the unknown on that day, and TWSA has now developed into a nationwide, ten-city tour that has touched thousands of lives. Each event welcomes up to 50 participants who will spend the day surfing waves and sharing the stoke with hundreds of wetsuit-clad … Read more

How Much Does Surfing Cost? | Cheap waves?

December 20, 2021by Luke Morris

Surfing appears to be a carefree pastime that is frequently connected with relaxation and being in one with nature. As with everything fun and exciting, surfing too has a price. Things start to add up quickly if you want a couple of different boards in your arsenal and wetsuits that fit your needs. Is surfing, then, a costly pastime? Depending on how you approach it and how serious you take it, surfing may be an inexpensive hobby or an expensive sport. However, it’s safe to say that learning to surf is pretty affordable, especially if you live near the shore. This article will answer all of your queries about how much surfing cost and everything that comes with it. The Surfing Lifestyle: How Much Does Surfing Cost? Initial start-up costs can frighten a newcomer away before even stepping on a surfboard. The good news is that once you have the necessary equipment, the open ocean is all you need to get started. That is how surfing is pretty accessible. Surfing is generally less expensive than skiing, golfing, or windsurfing. The difference between skiing and surfing is that you don’t have to pay to use the beaches, unless you plan to go to the Maldives, where some resorts have private waves. However, if you acquire wave fever, make sure you have money set out for surf trips. You can simply discover waves by traveling around the world a couple of times a year. What Do I Need? To begin, you’ll need a surfboard, surf fins, leash, tail pad, wax, and a travel cover. We may also include a neoprene wetsuit, a poncho for simple changing, a key lock to keep your car keys safe while you’re in the water, a wetsuit drier, and, of course, sun protection. The list of accessories is truly endless, but so far, these are the most common surf accessories you will need. Surfboard A beginner’s surfboard can cost anywhere from $300 to $1,000. You don’t need to buy an expensive or professional branded surfboard at the start of your surfing journey. As you gain experience, you will wear it out. You might discover that surfing is not for you, so don’t waste your money first. Longboard surfboards are usually better for beginner surfers. They’re simpler to balance on and pop up on when you’re initially starting out. You should also consider getting a foam board to help you catch waves and avoid getting hurt if you spend the entire day falling off your board. Soft top surfboards, sometimes known as foamies, can cost as little as $100. Wetsuits The only other thing you’ll need is a good wetsuit once you’ve got your surfboard. Unless you’re going all out for a super high-performance suit, most wetsuits cost between $100 and $300. Make sure you get one that is within your price range. Consult local surfers to determine the type of wetsuit you require. You might discover that you won’t need one. If that is the case, you can start by wearing many rash guards or board shorts. This will save you money over buying a wetsuit because they are less expensive. But, if you intend to surf in cold water, you should dress as warmly as possible. With a proper wetsuit, you can stay in the water for as long as possible without getting cold. How Much Do Surf Lessons Cost? Depending on the popularity of the surf school and where you’re surfing, an average surfing lesson can cost anywhere from $25 to $100. In smaller, less well-known spots, one- to two-hour surf lessons cost between $10 and $20. You could end up spending anywhere from $20 to $70 per hour in larger, more popular places. While some surf shops provide free lessons, it’s nearly always part of a more extensive marketing campaign to encourage you to buy some of their gear. A typical surfing instruction lasts one to two hours. Depending on which lesson you receive, you may receive a half-day or full-day of instruction. Although you may be needed to bring your own surfboard and wetsuit to the lesson, most surf schools will provide you with this equipment. In some instances, the class fee includes the rental of a surfboard and wetsuit, so make sure you understand what you’re getting and that your demands are met. How Much Does Other Surf Accessories Cost? So you’ve got your surfboard and wetsuit, but what about the rest of the surfing accessories? To maintain your board smooth and grippy, you’ll also need a surfboard leash, surfboard wax, and a surfboard traction pad. At this point, any additional gear is absolutely optional. The good news is that all of the equipment, except for a wetsuit and the board itself, is very reasonable. For how useful board wax is, it’s incredibly inexpensive! Some surfers spend a lot of money on their way of life. Surfing should be treated as a recreational activity at first. As you improve, you might consider it a way of life. Some surfers compete in surfing events to supplement their high-priced lives. You can wind up paying $600 to $700 on new surfing equipment. Depending on how serious you are about surfing, it can be an inexpensive hobby or an expensive way of life. How Much Does Travelling For Surfing Cost? Unfortunately, flying on a surf trip is one of the most costly aspects of surfing. Airlines like American Airlines charge $150 for each board, despite it being just a surfboard. Do the arithmetic if you’re traveling with nine boards. The cost of the surfboard may possibly exceed the cost of your ticket. For long-distance flights, Delta charges $200 per board. Surfboards are charged a service fee by airlines because they require specific handling. They are typically larger and irregularly shaped, making them more difficult to carry into the belly of an airplane among common baggage goods. Surfboards, for example, are heavier and more fragile than other types of recreational equipment, necessitating special handling and, … Read more

Surfing with Sharks | What You Can Do

November 24, 2021by Luke Morris

What do you think are the odds of you encountering a shark while you’re surfing? According to Florida Museum, 61% of the total cases of shark bites in the world are related to surfing and other board sports. It’s because of the constant paddles, wipeouts, and splashes in the water that makes you look like an injured prey, therefore luring the men in the grey suits in. It can be scary, but you should know that the chance of a shark attack is actually quite low. You can even compare it to getting struck by a lightning or hitting the lottery jackpot; however, that doesn’t mean you should take unnecessary risks and go look for trouble. Sharks are apex predators that you share the ocean with — one wrong move can lead to attacks that may cause you injury or death. For this article, we’ll help you understand why sharks attack surfers, what you can do to avoid these situations, and famous surfing spots where these predators are known to lurk underneath the water surface. Why do sharks attack surfers? Sharks, similar to orcas, are ocean predators that play an integral part in the ecosystem. They provide the scraps for the organisms to eat and help regulate the ocean population by preying on the weak. Sharks are designed to hunt, but you should know that humans are not part of their diet. They have a slow digestion process which makes them very selective of their food, a reason why they often eat seals and sea lions — marine mammals that are high in fat content. So why do you think some sharkies would chomp on surfers? It’s because they’re curious. Surprising as it seems, smart dogs and toothy sharks have one thing in common, and it is by how they investigate things with their mouths. Sharks may circle on a person because they’re curious and they want to find out if they’re edible. The shark’s goal: to have a test bite, not to eat. Once they have a bite, it’s seldom they would go for another. Humans consist of a lot of bones, see, and sharks don’t really like to consume that. This is the reason why sharks ‘hit and run’, and most victims survive the attacks. Sharks have good vision and sense of smell. Their impressive eyesight is ten times much better than humans, and this allows them to hunt in both daylight and low light conditions. However, when the water is murky, their vision becomes dull, which makes it challenging for them to see clearly and hunt for their prey during stormy days. This brings us to another possible theory why sharks attack humans — mistaken identity. Based on research, sharks (specifically the great whites) also bite on humans because they often mistake us as seals, a.k.a their primary prey. In a test conducted by experts, they observed how a shark’s retina will be able to recognize the visual motions of a seal and a swimmer paddling with a surfboard from the perspective of viewing things below the water surface. Turned out, sharks cannot differentiate the two; therefore, proving the theory to be true. Lastly, the water temperature also affects a shark’s behavioral pattern. In Western Australia for instance, statistics show that when the water reads at 18 to 20 degrees, great white sharks are more prone to attack humans. Meanwhile, in other places of the world where there are dry spells or drought, attacks are also frequent because of the increased interaction and close proximity of the sharks and people at the beach. Surfing with Sharks If you come face-to-face with a shark, or you see it swimming from under your board while you’re surfing, what would you do? In the worst- case scenario of shark encounters, here are some basic principles and gentle reminders you need to keep in mind to avoid being the shark’s next sample meal. Stay calm Staying calm is a pearl of conventional wisdom and probably the simplest tip of all, but the most difficult to execute when you’re actually in the moment of being confronted by a six-foot shark. A typical reaction of most people when they see a shark is to shout “Shark!” or paddle like a mad man towards the shore. But if you do this, you will just put more attention on yourself and make you appear like injured or easy prey in the shark’s eyes. In this situation, here’s what you can do. If you see a triangular dorsal fin and a tailfin slicing through the water surface coming towards you, do not panic and try your best to keep a level head. As casually as you can, paddle your way towards the shore. If that’s not an option, stay still. Keep your feet and your arms up your surfboard. If the shark detects no movements, it will most probably lose its interest and move on to another target. Know the shark’s direction Always keep an eye on any uninvited toothy guests. Sharks look for lone targets, so they usually stay away from people in the lineup; however, in a situation where they do get close, it’s best to huddle up as a group. Track the shark’s movements, avoid the direction where it’s going, and head to the shore as safely and calmly as you can. Avoid surfing in murky waters or low-light conditions Bull sharks are often spotted in murky water sources like brackish river mouths because that’s where they feed and reproduce. If you see lots of seals and seabirds, sharks are also probably there looking for prey. Avoid surfing if you can. A lot of surfers also like to ride the waves in early light and before evening; however, these periods are high-risk conditions. In low-light settings, shark attacks are most likely to occur. The poor visibility enables the shark to see its prey’s silhouette from below and move without their target knowing where it is, making it ideal for the shark to … Read more

How to Surf a Crowded Lineup: Pro Tips and Tricks

November 6, 2021by Luke Morris

people surfing AT THE BEACH WONDERING HOW TO SURF A CROWDED LINE UP

Gone are the days when we could rock up at our favorite surf break and be one of, if not the only person in the water. With over 20 million surfers worldwide, and a surf population growing at 12% per year, secret spots are slowly becoming less secret, and popular surf breaks are often too crowded to catch a wave. Although it is never ideal when the lineup is full of people, it is often something we need to deal with if we want to catch a ride. By remaining patient, visual, friendly, and willing to put in some extra work, a crowded day does not need to be a bust. Crowded breaks are undeniably annoying, but the following tips will help you better navigate overpopulated surf lineups and make the most out of your day. What Are the Downsides of Surfing in a Crowded Lineup? No one likes to surf in a crowded lineup, and for good reason. Once you have read the downsides of crowds in a surf lineup you will begin to understand why. High Competition Unlike snowboarding or skating where you can constantly ride your board, in the ocean, even when surf conditions are perfect, you still need to wait for a wave to break. Furthermore, in most cases, the rule goes that only one surfer should ride a wave at a time (although there are exceptions to this rule), which makes waves even rarer. Add a bunch of people to the lineup and it is easy to see how a relaxing surf can quickly turn into a fierce competition for the few available waves. Fewer Waves for Time If you are lucky enough to find yourself in a crowd that respects how a surf lineup works, you will be able to avoid the savage competition for the waves, but this comes with a disadvantage. If everyone is waiting their turn, there are five waves per set, and twenty people in the water, it is easy to see how you will be waiting a while for your ride. This can of course be an advantage of its own but is not ideal if you just paddled out for a few quick waves. People in Your Way When there are too many people in a lineup you will constantly find yourself dodging someone. Unless everyone in the water is a good surfer and follows surf etiquette to the tee, you will constantly find people paddling out through the middle of the break, throwing their boards away, or falling off waves at the peak. As you will need to maneuver around them, you will not be able to ride the wave as you wish. This can become frustrating, especially when you have waited so long for your turn. Crowds Are Dangerous Having a few people in the water makes surfing safer as there are people around if something goes wrong. When a few people become a big crowd, the opposite is true. The more surfers there are in a lineup the higher the chance you have of running into someone else. This can, in extreme cases lead to concussions<span style=”font-weight: 400;”>, lacerations, and loss of consciousness, or if you are lucky, a broken or dinged surfboard. In a large crowd, if someone was to lose consciousness it would be a lot harder to notice them missing. Tension in the Water When there are a lot of people in a lineup tensions always seem higher. Everyone is on edge waiting to charge the next set, constantly on the lookout for other surfers, and slightly annoyed that they are not surfing as much as they wish. This, of course, is not always the case but will happen more times than not. Although some lessons can be learned from this, it does take away from the relaxing, nature-immersing experience that surfing can be. Are There Benefits to Surfing a Crowded Lineup? No one will choose to surf a crowded lineup over an empty one because the benefits do not come even close to the downsides, but this is not to say that there can’t be any upsides at all. Teaches You Patience One of the greatest lessons a crowded lineup can teach you is patience. Both for the waves and the people around you. While you wait for your wave, instead of becoming annoyed with the waiting, practice patience, and you will find yourself enjoying the waiting as much as you enjoy the surfing. Teaches You to Work for What You Want Surfing in a crowded lineup means that you cannot simply sit and wait for a wave to come to you, you need to work for it. This lesson, taught through a non-ideal surfing situation, remains true in all aspects of our life and should be contemplated while in and out of the water. Competition Makes You Better Fierce competition can be off-putting, but healthy competition provides an amazing platform for improvement. As you will be fighting for your waves, you will need to surf better than those around you. This will likely mean pushing yourself to the max and learning a thing or two in the process. Teaches You to Deal With Pressure A crowded lineup can become a stressful situation, especially when a set forms further out and breaks on top of the lineup. Although crowds can cause a lot of pressure, learning to deal with this in a somewhat safe environment will begin to prepare you for larger, faster swell and harsher conditions. 15 Tips for Surfing a Crowded Lineup To successfully surf a crowded lineup you need to be prepared for what is to come and pay close attention to details. Finding a balance between respect and fighting for your wave is important. 1. Study the Break You should never go for a surf before you have assessed the waves, currents, weather, and lineup. Doing so can put yourself and others at risk. This is even more important when you will be paddling out into … Read more

Should I Surf at High or Low Tide?

November 6, 2021by Luke Morris

Picture this: You’re at this surf town you’ve been wanting to visit for years. You’ve waxed your board, you’ve put on your wetsuit, and now that it’s time to go surfing, you see that all the water’s gone and it’s a hundred meters away from where you’re standing. What the heck!? Some surfers may find light in this low tide situation, while others may not. You may be asking yourself, is it worth it to walk through all that exposed beach? And if you do, will you still be able to find beach breaks and swells at the other end? Fret not, my friend. In this article, I’ll tell you all about the factors you need to know about the best times for surfing, and whether you should surf during a high or a low tide. What is a high tide and a low tide? First, let’s talk about what these tides are and how they occur. The rise and fall of the oceanic tides, also known as the high tide and low tide, happen because of the sun and moon’s gravitational pull towards the Earth. These occurrences consist of two cycles that are divided into 12 hours each. You may have noticed that during the full or a new moon, the tide’s high and the waves are bigger. This happens when the moon is closest to our planet, and the influence of its gravity pulls at the earth; therefore creating swelling or a bump where the water naturally drags in. This results in the ‘high-tide effect’. Meanwhile, on the other side of the planet, they experience what we call the low tide, or the event wherein the water moves away from the shore. Factors that Affect the Waves Before we dig deeper, let me briefly discuss the other factors that we need to consider in determining which tide you should surf on. Aside from the gravitational pull, other factors affect the tide and waves such as the tidal push, the undertow currents, and the kinds of wind. The onshore wind is the type wherein the wind from the sea blows in towards the shore, while the offshore wind is the one that blows from the land to the sea. There’s also the cross-shore winds that create choppy waters. Throughout the day, these different winds fluctuate and affect the condition of the waves. Surfing During Low Tide During low tide when the sea is at its farthest, the water surface is shallow, so the rocks, sandbars, and barnacles of the sea are exposed. This means that the sea is below the tidal range, causing small breaks and weaker waves. Believe it or not, some people prefer to surf in lower tides when the take-off spot and the water over the reef are not at their maximum depth. Beginners also find low tide a more enjoyable condition to practice in, because when it’s low tide in some locations, the surf breaks with higher waves, and that creates deeper and more pronounced barrels. Again, this varies in the place where you’ll be surfing. Some beaches have the biggest waves an hour after low tide, while others have zero waves as soon as the water moves far back from the shore. Now, we also have the extreme low tide, wherein the waves fall flat and the reef is at its shallowest. There will be no good breaks at this time, and in this condition, surfing isn’t recommended as it is risky and could be life-threatening. Surfing During High Tide If you’re an entry-level surfer, you might want to skip surfing during high tide. High tide is when the water is at the top of the tidal range, and because it continuously rises, the waves will push higher, creating fat waves that could become mushy and choppy later on when the tide reaches its peak. In this condition, you can expect lesser crowds, as the waves are harder to ride on and are potentially dangerous. But as intimidating as it may seem, hardcore surfers find extreme high tide a more preferable time to surf, because they see shore break waves as more fun, perhaps maybe even more than reef breaks. In simple terms, shore breaks are unpredictable waves that break directly into a steep shore. Examples of these are Waimea in North Shore, Oahu, and Teahupoo in Tahiti. These powerful waves are known to break boards and cause injuries to many surfers; however, they still attract hundreds of heavyshore pounders every year. How to Check the Tides for Surfing The locals know best about their waves; however, if for some reason you’re unable to ask them for the best time for surfing in their area, there are other ways you can know about this. You can look at the local surf reports, check with your smartphone tide app (My Tide Times, Tide Charts, Tides Near Me, Tide Alert, etc.), or get your own tide-monitoring watch where you can view the tide updates in real-time. The Best Times for Surfing Now that we’ve discussed the wave conditions of the low tide and the high tide, I will now tell you about the three best times of the day for surfing. Mainly, it’s in the morning before sunrise, during mid-tide, and before the sun sets. I find these to have the least crowd and the most consistent waves; therefore I get the most out of my surfing sessions. A little bit of disclaimer, though, as these will also depend on your location’s wave conditions and weather. For your reference and safety, please go ahead and ask the locals or other surfers for more information. Morning/ Before sunrise Have you heard of the popular surfing term ‘dawn patrol’? It’s when a group of surfers go out to surf at dawn, just before the sunrise so they have the first dibs on the waves before the other surfers wake up. Aside from the lesser crowd, another reason why most people like to surf early in the morning … Read more

Top 7 Best Workouts for Surfing | Guide

October 23, 2021by Luke Morris

SURFING WORKOUTS, TRAINING FOR SURFING BEST SURFING WORKOUT

From its humble beginnings in 1885 to its mainstream popularity today, surfing remains a gratifying and rewarding pastime. The excitement of being alone on your board in the vast ocean gives nothing but natural high. As stimulating as it may sound, surfing is a physically and mentally demanding activity. It needs you to have a fantastic combination of strength, power, endurance, balance, flexibility, speed, and mental toughness. We listed down surf fitness exercises that will improve your surfing and boost your athletic capacity. The best workouts for surfing will prepare you to tackle more giant waves as your fitness level meets the strength and ability every wave requires you to have. Why Should You Workout for Surfing? The best training for surfing would be, well, surfing too. But, if you are getting three to four sessions a week, it wouldn’t be enough to keep you physically fit in the water. Cody Thompson, a Floridian surfer and personal trainer, suggests that spending an hour inside a musty, halogen-lit gym can appear entirely dissonant for sliding on the waters, but doing so can help your surfing skills in the long run. Thompson says that if you want to become a better surfer, you can ride more waves. But, if you don’t get to surf as often as you wish, you can incorporate into your gym routine some workouts for surfing to keep you in surf-shape. Best Workouts for Surfing Generally, you don’t need to be incredibly fit to surf. Although, it helps if you are relatively active and in shape, can swim a few lengths, and enjoy surf sessions without feeling too exhausted. It can be pretty tricky to train for surfing – you must exercise on land to perform well in the water. You need to prepare your entire body dynamically by imitating the movements on the surfboard. Keeping yourself in surf-shape is another thing. As we’ve hinted above, if you are fit to surf, you can go on surfing for extended hours without feeling too tired. We’ve compiled a list of the best workouts for surfing to improve your surfing and boost your athletic capacity. Squats The main component of most lower body exercise programs is squats, and it is a crucial pattern to surfing. Imagine crouching through a bottom turn, landing at a higher speed with a complete rail turn – the best way to achieve that is to have a strong lower body with healthy joints to move through the full range of motion. Even though many consider them as leg exercise, basic squats are, in fact, a full-body workout. And, it is the best workout for surfing. When you surf, the ankles, knees, hips, and spine support a heavy load, so they need to be as strong as they can be. As you progress, add load and complexity. Some of the squat variations you can try are: Jump squats or going down into a squat and explosively jumping as high as you can from the squat position. Single leg squats or standing on one leg and squatting as low as you can. You can hold on to something for support and slowly let go once you get the hang of it. Bulgarian split squats. Do this while standing straight and raising one leg on a chair or box behind you. Achieve by bending your front knee, lowering your back knee towards the ground, and going as low as possible. Barbell squats. Do this while standing with your feet shoulder-width apart. Hold the bar across your upper back with an overhand grip. Squat down and repeat. Braced squats. This squat variation requires you to hold a weight plate in front of your chest with both hands and arms straight. Then perform a squat while keeping the plate in place. Turkish Get-Ups The amazing benefits for your overall athletic ability are what make Turkish get-ups more popular than ever. Combine them with your surf training program, and it will increase your mobility, joint health, dynamic movements, spine stability, shoulder control, core strength, and many more. As you develop your skill and precision with Turkish get-ups, slowly add some load and go up to 44 lbs (20 kgs) for men and 26 lbs (12 kg) for women. Think through all the dynamic positions you are putting your joints through while surfing. Different hip positions while turning or popping up, shoulder angles as you duck dive or rotate – all of them are encompassed in this workout for surfing. Turkish get-ups are quite a versatile workout that you may choose to utilize this exercise as a part of your surf warmup, too. Push-ups Push-ups are raising and lowering your body using your arms from the prone position. This exercises the pectoral muscles, triceps, and interior deltoids. In short, it builds both the upper body and your core strength. The good old basic push-up will never go out of any workout routine, including workouts for surfing. Push-ups engage your whole body and strengthen the core, align the spine, and improve shoulder control. It is a good workout for surfing, considering the water activity needs a strong upper body for easier pop-ups, duck dives, and injury prevention. For push-ups, alignment should be worked on first. Then the volume or how many more reps you can do. After mastering the classic push-up, you can work your way up to TRX or gym ring push-ups. You may also add weight by elevating your feet or wearing a weighted vest. Ring push-ups – this great progression exercise emphasizes building strength in the stabilizing muscles of the shoulder while increasing coordination and additional muscle recruitment in the chest. TRX push-ups – push-ups performed using the TRX suspension system allows you to use your own body weight as resistance during the movement. Dumbell push-ups – with a dumbbell in each hand while in a push-up position, you can work out by pushing up and rotating 90 degrees to one side, and raising one weight overhead. Clap push-ups … Read more

Surf Slang and Terms | All You Need to Know

October 19, 2021by Luke Morris

Before you venture out into the world of surfing, make sure you’re on the same page with your peers. Surfers have an exclusive way of talking, and not understanding a word they’re saying can REALLY make you feel like an outsider — or worse, a kook. I’ve been surfing for many years now, and have conversed with other surfers of different genders, ages, and native tongues. Still, it’s surprising to me how we all instantly connect when it comes to the way we talk. In this article, I’ll teach you all about surf slang and terms, and how I usually use them in my daily conversations. You’ll be able to catch up on inside jokes, engage in friendly chats, and impress other surfers with your fluency in Surf Lingo 101 in no time! Surf Slang and Terms A-frame- a peak-shaped wave with left and right shoulders Example: “Dude, A-frame. You go right, I go left.” Accessory man- a surfer that wears all kinds of accessories at the same time i.e. reef walkers, visors, multiple rashguards under the wetsuit Example: “If you ever need a rashie, I’m sure accessory man over there’s got a-plenty.” Aggro- an aggressive surfer or way of surfing Airplane wings- ugly longboards Example: “Did you see that dude with airplane wings? Man, he almost hit me.” Akaw- a term used for something shocking, rad, or awesome Example: “Akaw! Yo, look at that wave. Dude’s looking like he’s gonna get pitted.” Amped- the feeling of excitement before a surfing session Example: “Today’s surf report’s got me amped up this morning!” Ankle slapper/biter- small waves as if reaching ankle-level Example: “Man, the waves are ankle slappers today, I should’ve stayed home.” Axed- a heavy wipeout directly hitting a surfer Example: “Dude, that wave has so much speed, it axed me straight to the face!” Baby photo- small pecker/penis shrinkage after cold water surfing Example: “Yo dude, your full-on baby photo looks so obvious in your wetsuit right now. Ha!” Backdoor- to go inside a wave barrel Example: “Amazing backdoor on that gnarly wave, dude!” Bail out – to abandon or jump off from the board before or during a wipeout Example: “Oh my god, that wave almost killed me I had to bail out.” Balancing on the log- to paddle out on a surfboard with an erection Example: “Yo, wait up! Just having a little trouble balancing on the log up here.” Barney- a derogatory term for a surfer rookie, untalented (see also kook) Example: “Wow, the sesh today sucks. Too many Barneys out there.” Barrel- wave curl, tube, or hollow part of the wave Example: “Dude. Everybody’s stoked about today’s barrels.” Beach bunny- women wearing bikinis who frequently tan at the beach Example: “Brah, I see that beach bunny as often as I see you getting axed.” Betty- female surfer Bilge- water or goo that comes out of boots Example: “Dude, where did you swim? That bilge’s just plain nasty, man.” Bomb- a massive wave Boots/booties- neoprene booties usually worn with wetsuits Example: “I need to put on my booties or else I get reef rash.” Brah/bro- surfer friend or buddy Example: “Jeez bro, you need to practice in a surf camp or something or they’d be calling you Barney next.” Brekky- post-surf breakfast Carve- sharp turn on the wave’s face Example: “Rad carve, Matt!” Cheah- another term for ‘Yeah’ Example: “Eggy dude just told me he’s sorry for snaking in. Cheah, right.” Choppy (similar to blown-out)- inconsistent wave conditions Example: “Watch out for yourself out there, I heard we have some choppy waves today.” Clean- smooth wave conditions without bumps Cliffhanger- snot or booger inside the nose that gets obvious in water Example: “Dude, you better wipe off that cliffhanger before you talk to Betty.” Clipped- to get hit on the head with a lip Example: “You need to watch out, man. Getting clipped ain’t no fun.” Coffee bomb- when you’re sitting out on a wave and then feel an urge to drop turd after drinking coffee Example: “Dang, I wish I didn’t drink that coffee. I’m about to drop this coffee bomb.” Comb- used to remove or maintain surf wax Contra-gear- a product in exchange for weed Example: “Ey, Mike, I’ve got some contra-gear here in my pocket, dude.” Crest- top point of the wave Cutback- sharp turn or change direction in the face of a wave Example: “That cutback ripped the wave, man.” Cutting off- also referred to as snaking, to cut someone off who’s next in the lineup of catching a wave Example: “Ayo, that dingbat keeps cutting people off in the line!” Dawn patrol- surfing session before sunrise/early morning Example: “Sorry, bro. Can’t get my budgies on for tonight. I’m on dawn patrol tomorrow.” Deck-check- to paddle towards a big wave and back out last second Example: “Dude went in for the bomb, but deck-checked before the drop-in.” Dick-dragger (female: clam dragger)- a term used for surfers who can’t stand up on their boards yet Example: “Dude, you’ve been dick-dragging for days, stand up, will ya?” Ding- damage or crack to the board Drop in – when a surfer closest to the peak dropped, then another surfer down the lineup cut off on the wave Example: “Hey dimwit, why’d you drop in for!?” Dryspell- a long period of flat wave conditions Example: “Man, I’ll give you ten bucks if you end this dryspell right now.” Dude- a fellow surfer, can also be referred to as ‘due’ Eddie would go- a reference to the surfing legend Eddie Aikau who’s fearless when taking on big waves (also a bumper sticker in Hawaii) Egg beater- a surfer who sits on his/her board, blocking your way toward a wave Example: “Hey, egg beater! Get the hell out of the way!” Eggy- the feeling of dullness in the morning Example: “Will take a rain check today, I’ve been feeling eggy since I woke up.” Eskimo roll- to roll the board over to avoid being washed off the … Read more

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