Luke Morris

Pipeline Surfing Injuries | Dangerous Waves

May 3, 2023by Luke Morris

Pipeline, a wave that needs no introduction. One of the most famous waves on the planet, it’s crowded, heavy, and a wave by which all others are measured. From the most incredible rides of all time to some of the most horrific wipeouts you’ve ever seen, resulting in a litany of Pipeline surfing injuries. Pipeline serves it all each and every winter. The wave is incredible, a beautiful, bright blue cavernous barrel, lefts and rights where you can score the wave of your life or cop the beating of your life in the same session. While it looks perfect in videos, you don’t see the reef, sitting only feet below the surface, the pack of angry, hard-charging locals jostling for position, and the unpredictable nature of the wave. So while Pipeline can be perfect, it’s also deadly. Pipe has claimed more lives than any other wave on earth, but why is it so dangerous? Why is Pipeline talked about so much? And why has it served up so many injuries? A lot makes Pipe dangerous, so let’s jump in. Understanding Pipeline: Why is it so Dangerous? You often hear how Pipeline is the most dangerous wave on earth, but why? What makes it so dangerous? There are a few different contributing factors going beyond how the wave breaks. The Reef Pipeline comprises three reefs—farthest out lies third reef, which only breaks when the swell is huge. So, if you hear it’s breaking third reef, you know it’s frickin massive! Second reef is the next reef that only breaks when the swell is solid. The second reef means the wave breaks as a rolling whitewater before doubling up and hitting first reef. First reef is where the action starts, and the wave stands up abruptly and barrels down the reef. This is Pipeline’s shallowest and deadliest section, where the best barrels and worst wipeouts go down. First reef is also incredibly shallow, sitting only feet under the breaking lips. The reef is hard as concrete and is made up of caves, which is not uncommon for surfers to be stuffed into after a bad wipeout. The Crowd Because of the potential of riding the wave of your life and the attention of the surfing world fixated on Pipeline all winter, the attraction of coverage and making a name for yourself on the North Shore as a professional surfer is why Pipe is so crowded. Throw in the cloaks that dominate and regulate the Pipe lineup, and you have a recipe for aggression, fear, and a hectic crowd. On any given day, there can be between 50 and 100, if not more, people making up the pack at Pipe. The Pipe line-up runs in a hierarchy, with top locals and surfing legends taking their pick of the waves first, the top pros get the next best, and everyone else feeds off the scraps. Swells Because Hawaii sits in the middle of the Pacific, swells march un-interpreted from the North Pacific and slam straight into the reef at Pipe. It is why Hawaii has such good big waves, as solid swells hit Pipe directly. Conditions also change rapidly at Pipe, meaning sand (that sits adjacent to the Pipe reef) shifts and impacts how makeable the wave is. This can make Pipe even more deadly than usual by rendering the wave a closeout. The shallow reef, aggressive line-up, and huge swells make Pipeline incredibly dangerous; combine that with fear and other factors such as wind, tide, swell direction, backwash, and sand. You have a recipe for danger—a recipe for Pipeline. Pipeline Surf Injuries Pipeline has served up more injuries and deaths than any other wave. Taking many lives over the years, most notably Tahitian charger Malik Joyeux in 2011, along with many other surfers, all well-versed in waves of consequence. Even the best Pipe surfers of all time have had their fair share of life-threatening injuries out there. Jamie Obrien – JOB needs no introduction at Piepiline, but even for him, the waves he gets out there now have come at a price. Whether it be battling locals for waves his entire life or taking more wipeouts in a season than most of us rack up in a lifetime, Jamie had also broken both of his legs at Pipepine, and this all by the time he was 15. JJF – John John, one of the best Pipe surfers ever, broke his back in 2012 at Pipeline with a fairly run-of-the-mill wave (by John John standards) but managed a full recovery and return to surfing Pipeline. Andre Botha – The South African bodyboard legend almost lost his life at Pipe after being knocked unconscious–hitting his head on the reef, and being rescued by Jamie Obrien and North Shore lifeguards. Owen Wright – Owen Wrights’ return to professional surfing was one of the best surfing comebacks ever. After sustaining a brain injury at Pipe, the Australian won his first CT event back at Snapper Rocks. Owen, a well-renowned charger and CT veteran, took off on a closeout double-up, didn’t make it, and suffered a severe brain injury. Kala Grace – In the 2023 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, Kala Grace, a North Shore legend and Pipe charger, sustained a horrific head injury after falling inside the barrel and taking a solid first reef closeout on his head during a heat. He was rescued and taken to hospital and is still recovering as I write this. Billy Kemper also injured himself within minutes of this incident. Pipeline Surf Safety Even for the most experienced and best Pipe surfers, there are several precautions surfers must take to be safe (or at least minimize the risk) at Pipeline. Many surfers now wear Gath helmets if they hit the reef with their heads. Even Pipe specialists will avoid Pipe days where it’s bigger than usual or the wind or swell isn’t right; it just makes things even more dangerous than they already are. Final Thoughts Undoubtedly, Pipeline is an … Read more

Surfer’s Ear: Causes, Symptoms & Treatments

May 1, 2023by Luke Morris

Do you know about Surfer’s Ear? We put our bodies through it as surfers. We cram in double sessions on the weekend, jump in the water before and after work, and on surf trips; we spend 8 hours per day paddling, duck diving, getting tubed, or, if you’re like me, taking sets on the head and spending most of the session underwater. This kind of activity fills our sinuses with water, and you only need to have been in the middle of dinner, even on a date and have a cup full of water poor out of your nose onto the dinner table. A little embarrassing, but all part and parcel of being a surfer! But if you’re a cold-water surfer, you face another, more serious problem from surfing too much. Surfer’s ear. If you’ve ever come out of the surf unable to hear, had water stuck in your ear for days, or had an ear infection, you’ll know first-hand how frustrating surfers ear can be. In this article, we dive into everything you need to know about the incredibly annoying surfer ear. From what it is, why it happens, and what you can do to prevent it. What is Surfer’s Ear? Surfer’s ear is a bone growth inside the ear from repeat exposure to cold water and wind. If you live in a cold water surf destination such as Canada, Northern Califonia, Europe, or even South Australia, you’re exposed to the risk of a surfer’s ear. It’s the body’s way of protecting the eardrum from constant cold exposure that can permanently damage your ear. So the bone grows over the canal to protect the more important parts of your ear. Although you know it as the annoying water wedged in your ear after surfing all day, the scientific name for surfer’s ear is exostoses. What Are The Surfer’s Ear Symptoms? Nowadays, we are lucky enough to be able to surf in any water at any temperature. Wetsuits are amazing and allow us to surf for hours in sub zeros and in destinations as far-flung as Alaska, Iceland, and Tasmania. But surfing in such places (particularly if you live and surf there every day) comes with an increased risk of surfer’s ear. Some common symptoms include: Loss of hearing Water stuck in the ear Middle ear infections Ear pain When you can’t get that water out by shaking your head or stuffing your index finger in there–it’s super frustrating. While surfer’s ear can happen to surfers of all ages and abilities, it’s most common for surfers who have surfed in cold water most of their lives and who are in their mid-30s. So now we know the symptoms, how do you treat a surfer’s ear? How to Treat Surfer’s Ear There are several ways to treat a surfer’s ear, but before it gets to the point of needing treatment, you must look for the early signs and put preventative measures in place. Recognize the Early Signs Early signs of surfer’s ear include loss of hearing, having water stuck in the ear after surfing, pain in your ears, etc., all the annoyances of surfing consistently in cold water. If you’re experiencing any of these symptoms, get checked for the early signs of exostoses by a doctor. They’ll be able to tell you if you have early onset surfers’ ear or not. However, there is something else worth considering if you have experienced these symptoms. I surf all the time and went to get checked for the surfer’s ear after water was lodged in there for days, and I couldn’t hear! The doctor told me I have no signs of surfer’s ear yet (I’m 26), but often water gets trapped behind ear wax, leading to infection. Non-surgical Remedies for Surfer’s Ear? Initially, surfers’ ear doesn’t require treatment; if it’s early or you just have an infection, antibiotics are usually prescribed to treat it. Surgical Remedies for Surfer’s Ear? When things become more serious, when bone grows over the ear canal, partially or completely, surfer’s ear requires treatment. Unfortunately, once the bone starts growing, it doesn’t stop you get it surgically removed. There are two methods you can go about it: By incision – The most common way of treating surfer’s ear is where a pigeon makes an incision behind the patient’s ear and drills into the bone to remove it. By Microchisel – This involved chiseling away the bone growth to clear it. Afterward, a thin sheet of plastic silicone is applied inside the ear to protect the treated area and is removed 3 weeks later. How to Prevent Surfer’s Ear? By far, the best way to treat surfer’s ear is to prevent it in the first place! Ultimately, there is only one way you can prevent surfers’ ear entirely and that’s to avoid surfing in cold water. But you and I both know you won’t be doing that, so the next best option is to wear earplugs and/or a hood for super cold winter sessions. You can purchase custom earplugs online or buy a good set from any decent surf shop or grab standard-sized earplugs over the counter for surfers and swimmers. In my experience, although I don’t have surfers ear (yet), I often use earplugs to avoid infections when surfing in dirty water. (After it rains in Bali) and have found cheap earplugs usually fall out, and it’s well worth investing in a customized pair. Final Thoughts There’s no doubt looking after your ears is a crucial part of being a surfer, and getting constant ear infections and being unable to hear is no badge of honor for being a hardcore surfer, far from it. It’s just annoying. So, whether you’ve got early onset surfers’ ear or want to avoid it before it starts happening, wear ear plugs (invest in good ones), wear a hood if you’re surfing in cold water, and generally take care of your ear health. We’re not going to stop surfing in cold water, and nor … Read more

Best Jet Skis for Tow-In Surfing and Rescue Sleds

May 1, 2023by Luke Morris

Wherever there are surfers, especially highly skilled, competitive surfers, there are also jet skis being used for tow-in-surfing and jet ski rescues using rescue sleds. The two things go hand in hand, with jet skis serving as one of the most critical tools in big wave surfing and in everyday lifesaving situations. While jet skis are used on their own for recreation by thrill seekers who love spending time in the waves, they are also used by lifeguards and first responders all across the world who are tasked with keeping surfers and swimmers safe. In those critical moments when a lifesaving operation is underway, a reliable, high-performance jet ski is needed to ensure first responders can quickly reach a surfer in distress. Jet skis are also used for tow-in surfing, delivering surfers to the hardest-to-reach big waves in scenarios where paddling may not be practical. Read on to learn more about how jet skis became an integral part of competitive big wave surfing and a much-needed tool in lifesaving efforts on the water. We have rounded up the best jet ski for tow surfing, along with the best rescue sleds below. Jet Skis: A Brief History Today we use the name “Jet Ski” to describe almost any personal watercraft (PWC), but the first versions made in Europe were originally known as “water scooters.” These machines first appeared in the 1950s, but it was not until 1973 that Kawasaki manufactured the first “Jet Ski.” Kawasaki’s new design resulted from the initial efforts of Australian Clayton Jacobsen, who had made significant changes to the earliest European versions of personal watercraft. He altered the driver’s position from seated to standing, replaced the outboard motor with an internal pump jet, and eventually constructed a model of this personal watercraft from fiberglass. Kawasaki took an interest in his design and eventually brought it to the marketplace, paving the way for companies such as Yamaha and Bombardier to follow. The jet ski industry now has a market size of $1.1 billion in the United States alone. Why Do Surfers Use Jet Skis? While many surfers dream of always finding that next big wave, getting to it can prove impractical or simply impossible, or at least it was until the mid-1990s. Toward the end of the 20th century, some of surfing’s biggest names began to try what would become known as “tow-in surfing.” Elite competitors like Laird Hamilton and others realized they could reach a large breaking wave with the assistance of a PWC or even by dropping from a tow-in line attached to a helicopter. This truly changed the playing field in competitive surfing, allowing surfers to reach waves that were once out of their grasp with traditional paddling. In general, the maximum wave height most surfers reached before tow-in surfing came into play was 20 feet / 6 meters. Once jet skis and helicopters came into the picture, surfers could experience the thrill of waves ranging from 30 to 50 feet / 9 to 15 meters. From Northern California to Cape Town, South Africa, tow-in surfing has become a significant (albeit controversial) part of surf culture across the globe. Jet skis are also an important safety component in big wave surfing, especially when combined with rescue sleds, which we will explore further in this article. Important Features of Jet Skis for Tow-In Surfing When it comes to tow-in surfing, jet skis play a vital role in launching surfers into massive waves. Here are some key factors to consider when selecting the best jet ski for tow-in surfing: Power and Speed The ability of a jet ski to generate sufficient power and speed is essential for towing surfers into waves effectively. Look for jet skis with high-performance engines capable of propelling both the surfer and the watercraft swiftly. Stability Stability is another crucial factor, especially when navigating through turbulent waters and choppy waves. Opt for jet skis with a wide hull design and advanced stability features to ensure better balance and control. Maneuverability Maneuverability is vital for executing precise turns and maneuvers while towing surfers into position. Choose jet skis with responsive steering and agile handling to navigate through crowded lineups and challenging surf conditions with ease What Is the Best Jet Ski for Tow-In Surfing? If you are using a jet ski for cruising local waters and having fun with friends, you may not give much thought to its features, speed, or build in general, as long as you feel safe and comfortable on it. On the other hand, surfers relying on PWCs to reach monster waves want to know they are using the absolute best jet ski money can buy. They certainly would not attempt to surf a 30, 40, or 50-foot wave on a cheap surfboard, and they would not rely on anything less than the best jet ski to get to that big wave. While speed is certainly a critical factor in reaching waves, it is not the only thing to focus on when it comes to choosing the right jet ski. You also need to consider the model’s reputation for engine reliability, safety features, and overall stability. Here are three of the best jet skis on the market for use in tow-in surfing: 1. Yamaha FX Cruiser SVHO Curb weight: 875 pounds Seating Capacity: 1 to 3 Length: 140.9 inches Fuel Capacity: 18.5 gallons With premium features and the quality consumers expect from Yamaha, the FX Cruiser SVHO is a solid choice for tow-in surfing. This model accelerates from 0 to 30 miles per hour in under two seconds and can reach a max speed of 67 miles per hour. It enables drivers to rapidly decelerate when hitting tight corners and comes equipped with a supercharged marine engine with 260 horsepower. Yamaha’s LCD touchscreen includes GPS technology, and it comes with a waterproof integrated audio system and high-quality EcoXGear speakers; Yamaha covered all the bells and whistles with this model! The storage capacity is ample enough at 30.3 gallons, … Read more

Surf Training on Land: How to Train

May 1, 2023by Luke Morris

Nothing can replace surfing, and no exact movement replicates what we do when surfing a wave. However, we don’t all have the luxury of surfing all day, every day–dedicating our entire lives to improving our surfing. I know how it is. Life gets in the way, responsibilities crop up, and finding time to surf and chase swells falls by the wayside. But don’t stress; this doesn’t mean you can’t improve your surfing. There are countless ways to help you stay fit, flexible, and stronger when you can’t get in the water. While I would highly encourage you to surf as much as possible, if you live far from the Ocean or just can’t find the time, it’s time to start doing surf-specific training. In this post, we dive into land-based surf training; from what can be done to most accurately replicate surfing, the key fitness components you should focus on on land, to the importance of mobility and stretching in surfing. We’ll also discover how to create a land-based surf training program. A lot goes into getting fit for surfing, so let’s get down to it. Replicating Surfing on Land – Is it Possible? Because of the tiny movements you make in surfing and an ever-changing ocean, it’s super tricky (even with all the technology we have at our fingertips) to replicate the moves in the ocean. I think one of the best ways to do it is simple: watch surf movies and try and replicate the body movements you see in clips. Do this in your room when no one’s looking because it looks ridiculous. But this way, you get your body and mind used to the positions you need to perform certain maneuvers. I used to do this as a kid all the time! I also used to walk down the street pretending a bush was a long tube, adopting an upper-body tube stance as I walked along. And yes, I’m not afraid to say I still do this, aged 26. Additionally, mobility routines and stretching exercises can help mimic surfing movements. Putting your body in the same positions you do in surfing will help your flexibility and muscle memory. Despite this, training outside the water doesn’t have to focus on surf-specific movements. Training with “gimmicky” surf-specific routines can have an adverse effect! Just look at the best surfers in the world to see how they train; take Nate Florence and Gabriel Medina; in their training, they perform explosive, power-based body weight exercises in circuit-style sessions. Surf Workouts We have several fitness-based components in surfing, including power, strength, cardiovascular fitness, and flexibility–all essential in good surfing. Whenever top surfers are training, they focus on these aspects. Here’s how they relate to surfing. Strength The stronger you are, the easier surfing will be. Paddling, pushing through turns, duck diving, and how long you can surf for. Muscular strength and endurance are slightly different muscle-based but equally essential fitness components. While muscular endurance helps you surf for longer (and be able to practice more), muscular strength and power will give you the ability to push through turns and throw spray. Power All the maneuvers we do in surfing are fast and explosive; therefore, power is critical. Successful tour surfers have power in their game, big legs, strong cores, and the ability to torque and throw their boards around. Even basics such as popping up or performing an off-the-top are quick (fast twitch) movements, and power-based exercises help you perform them better. Cardio Cardiovascular training is essential for surfing. The fitter you are, the longer you can surf, the easier paddling and riding waves will be, and the more waves you catch. More waves = more improvement. If you don’t surf all the time, cardiovascular training such as running, cycling, and swimming will undoubtedly help you feel better in the water. Even if you surf a lot, this type of training helps you keep motivation and froth levels high when the waves suck (which is more often than not). Flexibility Flexibility and mobility is the most crucial factor to consider when it comes to surfing well. Everything in surfing requires flexibility, from paddling (shoulders), popping up (hips), and top turns (hips, ankles, back). If your muscles are tight, you won’t just feel sore from surfing but will be limited in the maneuvers you can perform. The Championship Tour surfer is super flexible, and this is no accident. Mobility & Stretching Rather than focusing on land-based surf replication, stretching will be more beneficial in helping you surf better. A good stretch routine (while watching a great surf movie to see how surfers move) is a great way to stay limber and flexible. I recommend starting a daily stretch routine first thing in the morning, making some flowing, fluid movements to get the blood flowing, and then into a great yoga routine. Establishing this long-term routine can help you feel better when you do get to surf. Post-surf stretching is also super important! If you surf, then sit at a desk all day, it leads to stiff muscles and soreness. A recipe for injury! But stretching, even for 30 minutes, post surf, can work wonders in helping your body feel good for the next session. How to Create a Surf-Specific Workout Routine The best surf-specific routine focuses more on developing; strength, power, cardio fitness, and flexibility than trying to replicate what you do in surfing completely. These things combine to make surfing easier and less tiring when you get in the water. Make stretching a habit (both morning and post urf), A movement-based, flowing routine in the morning and a deep post-surf stretch session. Try and do 3 x strength bases sessions per week. (Adapt depending on how much you surf that week). Perform bodyweight exercises such as push-ups, lunges, dips, squats, jumps, and spider craws. These are dynamic movements that incorporate the entire body. These are great for strength and muscular endurance as part of a circuit. Cardio Sessions: If … Read more

10 Highest Paid Surfers | How Surfers Get Paid

April 27, 2023by Luke Morris

Surfing is different; it always has been. It walks the line between sport and lifestyle. But for athletes at the top level, surfing is undoubtedly a sport and a well-paid one at that. Whether they’re grinding it out on the WQS or in the top 10 on The Championship Tour, there’s good money in pro surfing. But cash in surfing doesn’t filter down the ranks equally, and there is a massive gap between how much the top-level pro surfers are paid and the rest of the pack. Who earns what money in surfing goes beyond simple prize money and contest win bonuses. It involves prize money, sponsorships, circumstance, marketability, other revenue streams, and, let’s face it, some industry who knows who. In this article, we dive into how surfers get paid. We’ll discover the highest-paid surfers, how they earn their paychecks, the differences between male and female earnings, and where surf salaries are today. We have a bit to get through, so let’s hit it. Who are the Highest Paid Surfers? While the Championship Tour roster includes 34 surfers, only ten may be considered well-paid; however, even the highest-paid surfer’s salaries pail compared to most sports. Here are the highest-paid surfers right now. 1. Kelly Slater Kelly Slater is the greatest surfer of all time and one of the winningest athletes in all sports. The 11x world champion continues to compete at the highest level today at 51. As you’d expect, Kelly is the highest-paid surfer ever, with an estimated net worth of around $ 25 million. Between 2010 and 2014, the Floridian amassed $ 2.2 million in prize money alone. This doesn’t include endorsement deals with major brands like Quiksilver and GoPro. Kelly has used his multiple revenue streams wisely, investing in his sustainable surf company, Outer known, and revolutionary wave pool technology at his famous Kelly Slater Surf Ranch. 2. John Florence Any surf fan in the past decade has heard of John Florence. John has won two world titles, going back to back in 2016 and 2017, produced one of the greatest surf movies ever, and continues to blow minds every time he surfs. If you haven’t seen View From a Blue Moon yet, I’d highly suggest checking it out. With two world titles behind him and big-name backing from Nike, Hurley, and Monster, John is one of the highest earners in surfing. His net worth is $ 12 million, and like Kelly, John has invested wisely, starting his own company, “Florence X Marine,” and generating revenue from surf movies and YouTube. 3. Mick Fanning The face of Australian surfing, Mick Fanning, is a 3x time world champion from the Gold Coast in Queensland. Now retired, Mick was one of the highest-performing competitors of all time, pipping Kelly to the post to win three world titles. The Queenslander still boasts some big sponsors, including Red Bull, Rip Curl, and DHD Surfboards—an iconic surfing figure worth $ 8 million. 4. Gabriel Medina Gabriel Medina is a Brazilian superstar with a net worth of around $ 3.5 million. The 3x world champion is already regarded as one of the best competitive surfers ever, with a fearsome reputation in heats and heat surfing that wouldn’t look out of place in the latest surf flick. Medina is a megastar in Brazil, mates with Neymar, and enjoys huge endorsement deals with Rip Curl and Audi. 5. Laird Hamilton Laird Hamilton is a pioneer of big wave tow surfing and one of the first names people associate with surfing. He changed how waves were ridden in the early 2000s and was one of the first to surf Jaws and Teahupoo. Laird has amassed massive wealth from surfing (net worth of $ 10 million) and is also an actor and sportswear model. Other highly paid surfers There are some other well-paid surfers I couldn’t squeeze into this list, including Julian Wilson, Kolohe Andino, Jordy Smith, and Kanoa Igarashi. The Highest-Paid Female Surfers in the World In many sports, women earn significantly less than their male counterparts, but in 2019, the WSL announced equal pay for male and female athletes, becoming the first US sport to do so. However, there is still a huge gap between the top five female surfers and the rest of the pack. Some of the highest-paid female surfers include: 6. Carissa Moore Carissa Moore is the face of women’s surfing and one of the most successful female surfers ever. The Hawaiin has won the world title 5 times and has huge sponsors to match her success. Red Bull, Target, Hurley, and Mayhem surfboards are among them. Carissa’s net worth is estimated at around $ 2 million. 7. Steph Gilmore Steph Gilmore is the greatest female surfer of all time and has won the world title 8 times, most recently in 2022 at the WSL Finals at Trestles. Gilmore is also regarded as one of the most stylish surfers ever, and her sponsors include Roxy, DHD, and Nixon—an incredible surfer with a net worth of $ 16 million. 8. Sally Fitzgibbons Another Australian surfing icon and successful CT veteran. Fitzgibbons has competed on the WCT for over a decade, finished 2nd in the world, and competed in the Tokyo 2022 Olympics. Her net worth is $ 1 million. 9. Maya Gabeira Maya Gaberia is a big wave surfing phenomenon from Brazil and one of the best female big wave surfers ever. Hailing from Rio de Janeiro, Maya has surfed some of the world’s most terrifying big wave spots, including Portugal/s Nazare and Tahiti’s Teahupoo. She has won XXl awards and even a Guinness World Record for a wave she rode at (68ft) Nazare after almost drowning there four years previous. 10. Malia Manuel Malia Manuel is a professional surfer and model from Kauai, Hawaii. Despite appearing at the highest level in multiple CT events, she is regarded as one of the most underrated female surfers. She remains at the top level of female surfing (despite not competing on the WCT) … Read more

How to Stay Warm When Surfing in Cold Water: Top Tips for Toasty Waves

April 25, 2023by Luke Morris

person surfing on waves in winter - wondering how to stay warm when surfing in cold water

Where I live in Western Australia, we happen to get our best swell in the winter months. As a cold-water winter surfer, I know firsthand how important it is to know how to stay warm when surfing in cold water in order to enjoy the waves. Cold temperatures can quickly sap your energy and make it difficult to perform at your best. With that in mind, I’d like to share some tips on how to stay warm while surfing in cold water. One of the key elements to staying warm during those frosty surf sessions is paying close attention to how we protect our extremities, like our hands and feet. These body parts are typically more exposed to the elements, and as a result, they require some special consideration. In the next sections, I’ll be discussing the different ways to keep your hands and feet warm while riding those chilly swells. What Do Surfers Do to Stay Warm in Winter Wetsuits and Accessories When I surf winter swells in cold water, I make sure to wear a good quality wetsuit with the appropriate thickness to keep my body warm. Thick neoprene wetsuits, especially hooded ones, provide extra insulation against the cold. I also wear essential wetsuit accessories like gloves, booties, and earplugs to protect my extremities and prevent heat loss. Gloves and booties keep my hands and feet warm, while hooded wetsuits and earplugs protect me from cold water flushing and possible ear infections. Techniques and Tips One important tip I follow to stay warm when surfing is to keep moving in the water. I paddle regularly and stay active, as this helps in maintaining my body temperature and blood circulation. Avoiding unnecessary duck dives also helps in retaining body heat by not submerging myself and the surfboard beneath the waves when it is not needed. I don’t know about you, but the old ‘doing a wee in the wetsuit’ offers a bit of immediate relief too and is a classic surfer’s trick where I’m from (Haha, sorry, too much information!?) Diet and Nutrition In order to maintain my energy and body temperature while cold water surfing, I plan a nutritious pre-surf meal. High-calorie foods rich in carbohydrates, proteins, and healthy fats provide fuel to my body and help me stay warm. Fruits and vegetables with high water content might not be the best choice before cold water surfing, so I opt for more substantial meals instead. Coffee and alcohol might be tempting for a quick fix, but they are not advisable as they can reduce my body’s core temperature. Of course, a hot drink and warm feed immediately after surfing is a great way to warm back up again too. I personally love the Aussie classic of a hot choccie and a sausage roll with tomato sauce! Preparing for Winter Surfing Before heading out for a winter surf, I make sure to warm up by stretching and doing light exercises. Having a warm and insulated van to change in and gather my gear is a great way to start my session comfortably. It’s also a good idea to keep a changing poncho and a container of warm water handy for rinsing and warming up my hands and feet after a surf. Understanding Water Temperature I always consider the water temperature before a winter surf session. Knowing the ideal wetsuit thickness and accessories needed for specific water temperatures helps me prepare better and stay warm while surfing. For instance, thicker wetsuits and extra accessories like hoods and gloves might be essential when water temperatures drop significantly, certainly this is needed when I surf in the colder south eastern states of Australia in the winter; I can only imagine what it’s like in parts of Europe and the USA (you guys are mad!). Rejuvenating after a Cold Surf Session After a cold surf session, I focus on rejuvenating my body and warming up quickly. A hot shower, warm drinks, and dry clothes help me regain my body temperature and recover faster from the effects of cold water surfing. I also make sure to refuel my body with a nutritious post-surf meal to replenish energy and restore balance. In Australia, we surfers wear ugg boots – sheepskin wool lined boots; in fact you wouldn’t be a surfer in winter in Australia unless you pulled your uggies on straight after your feet were nearly dry (even with sand on them, the lot!). Don’t let the cold water stop you chasing epic waves! Get the right gear, eat the right foods, warm up quickly and enjoy the winter swell! Luke MorrisLuke Morris is an avid athlete and the driving force behind Surfhungry, a vibrant online platform dedicated to sharing the joy and passion of surfing and water sports with enthusiasts around the world. With a deep-rooted love for the ocean and a lifelong commitment to riding waves, Luke’s journey as a surfer has inspired him to create a community where like-minded individuals can come together to celebrate their shared passion.

Kelly Slater (Surfing GOAT): Surfing Redefined

April 19, 2023by Luke Morris

kelly-slater-pro-surfer-how-much-do-pro-surfers make

Kelly Slater is synonymous with surfing and is one of the most successful athletes to walk the planet. The greatest surfer of all time. The GOAT. Kelly’s surfing has transcended generations, changing how surfers approach waves and redefining radical surfing. A combination of old-school flow and new-school flare led to a style of surfing that won the Floridian 11 x world titles and imprinted him in the memory of surfing forever. Kelly’s influence on surfing is clear, and his prowess in competitive surfing is what he’s so famous for. But in this article, we take a deeper dive into the life of Kelly Slater. We’ll discover how his early career played out, how he got so damn good at surfing in wave-starved Florida, and how this competitive dominance in waves of consequence. We will also look closer at his personal life, what the 51-year-old life looks like outside of surfing, and what the future holds. It’s a long and inspiring story, so grab a cuppa, and we’ll dive in! The Rise of a Young Surfer: Kelly Robert Slater was born in Cocoa Beach, Florida, on February 11, 1992. While Florida has produced some notable professional surfers over the years, the region is not typically associated with world-class waves. In fact, it’s flat most of the year. This makes Kelly’s rise to surfing success all the more astonishing. A young slater, the son of a fishing shop owner, came from a troublesome home and spent much of his childhood outdoors and at the beach. He has two brothers and began surfing at the age of 5. Kelly was competing by age ten and beating kids much older than him in contests up and down the US East Coast. Kelly started competing in 1984 and turned pro in 1990. However, his first two years on the WSL World Championship Tour (then ASP) weren’t plain sailing. He struggled for results, and it took time to adjust to life on tour and surfing well enough to beat his competitors, many of which were his idols. But by 1992, Kelly was winning—a lot. In the first five events of the 1993 tour year, he finished 3rd place or higher in three of the events before winning his first Championship Tour event at the Rip Curl Pro France later in the year. The event was held in windy Hossegor and beat tour veteran and fierce competitor Martin Potter to claim his maiden win. He later won the Pipeline Masters and his first world title, aged only 20. Kelly is still the youngest-ever surfer to win the world title. And, the eldest, winning his last at age 39. After a 6th place “blip” finish in 1994, Hawaiian legend Michael Ho won that year. Kelly went on to win five consecutive world titles in 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002. Yes, five! A feat is unmatched by anyone and a record unlikely to be broken. After 2002 and his fourth win, Kelly took a break from professional surfing. How Did Kelly Get So Good? Before we come back to Kelly’s competitive career and his return to professional surfing, how did Kelly get so good at surfing? For lack of a better description, the waves in Florida are terrible all the time, so how did young Slater improve, particularly in waves of consequence? Kelly would have to travel the world to surf better waves, bigger waves, and in line-ups where competition would be fierce. Line ups like on the North Shore of Oahu. It would be here that Kelly would go on to learn how to surf big waves and gain confidence as the World Tour became the dream tour, where waves of power and quality were added to the schedule, waves like Teahupo, Cloudbreak, and G-land. Hawaii Now, Kelly is renowned for surfing well in barreling waves, one of, if not the best. But it wasn’t always this way. In Kelly’s autobiography, Pipe Dreams, he states that everything changed for him one North Shore Season. One day, a huge NW swell hit Oahu, and a young Kelly headed to the island’s West side. He pulled up at a spot called Makaha, one of the original big wave spots and a legendary break in Hawaii. Here, he met with Brandon Davis, who was waxing up a big wave gun and took Kelly under his wing for the session. They paddled out together for a wicked session at 30-40ft Makaha. It was the tips Davis gave Kelly during this session that Kelly used for confidence in big surf, and Kelly still references the session today. Kelly has put more time in than anyone on the North Shore, a place where traditionally, non-Hawaiians fare poorly in competition. Kelly is now regarded as one of the best Pipe competitors ever. Heat Strategy Kelly became obsessed with surfing heats and gained a notorious reputation for using mind games in contests. He took things very seriously. While much of the World Tour contingent were partying their way around tour locations, Kelly took detailed notes on his competitors, their heat strategy, waves scores, and what he had to do to ride waves more critically. He was also part of the group of young tour rookies sticking it to the old school with a new way of surfing–the Momentum generation, Channel Islands Surfboards Another considerable aspect of Kelly’s surfing success was his decades-long relationship with surfboard shaper Al Merrick. Getting boards dialed in takes a long time. The two worked meticulously to create boards that allowed Kelly to surf more critically, perform tighter arcs and ride more in the pocket. Surfing that would fetch Kelly bigger scores. Health & Diet Kelly’s out-of-water training regime is shrouded in mystery, and no one knows what he does to stay fit out of the water. However, it’s well known he takes his health, diet, and body extremely seriously. After all, the guy’s still competing at age 51! Magic pills, perhaps? Kelly Slater’s Career (Career, Achievements & Awards) After a … Read more

The Best Female Big Wave Surfers in the World

April 18, 2023by Luke Morris

keala kennelly one of the best female big wave surfers sponsored by the best surf brands

You only have to paddle out at your local to notice. Lineups are still majorly male-dominated, and while things are changing, surfing has always been this way. This is particularly true in waves of consequences, with only a handful of women tackling the biggest and scariest waves in the world. But things are on the up for women’s surfing and women’s big wave surfing! After the WSL’s equal prize money announcement in 2019 and an established women’s big wave world tour, the future is bright for females and big waves. That said, there will only ever be a select few surfers (both male and female) with the mindset and skill required to ride waves that can kill you. In this article, we look into the lives of the women at the forefront of big-wave surfing. These are the women pushing boundaries and breaking down the barriers of “possibility.” We’ll dive into the history of women’s big wave surfing, learning about the pioneers who paved the way for the up-and-coming crop of young female big wave chargers. We’ll also look at the challenges associated with women’s big-wave riding and what the future holds for the sport. We have a lot to get through, so let’s dive in! The History of Female Big Wave Surfing Surfing big waves has been at the core of our sport since its Hawaiian origins. When locals first tackled North Shore spots, previously deemed unrideable on old 9ft+ guns. The sport quickly grew in popularity worldwide as new big-wave spots were discovered, and small groups of dedicated big-wave chargers began popping up around the globe. This select group became known as big wave surfers, which has grown to include globally renowned professionals and “do it for” the love swell chasers, men, and women. Some of the first women in that group included Keala Kennelly, from Kauai, and Maya Gabeira, from Rio, two of the first women to tackle the scariest waves in the world. Mavericks, Teahupoo, Jaws, Nazare, Ghost Trees–big wave spots as dangerous and mystical as their names suggest! The Best Female Big Wave Surfers in the World An increasing number of female big-wave surfers chase swells, compete on the WSL women’s big-wave world tour, and ride stand-out waves during major swell events. This includes both younger and upcoming riders and pioneers. Here are some of the most notable figures in women’s big wave surfing. Keala Kennelly Hailing from Kauai, Hawaii, Keala Kennelly is synonymous with women’s big wave surfing. Keala was and still is at the forefront of female big wave surfing and among the first to surf death-defying spots such as Teahupoo, Pipeline, and Waimea. To this day, Keala is one of the best female big-wave surfers in the world. After spending ten years on the Women’s World Championship Tour (WCT), the Hawaiian celebrated wins at Teahupoo and Pipeline before quitting the tour to pursue careers in music and acting. Despite moving away from competitive surfing in everyday waves, Keala never stopped riding big waves and went on to compete in multiple big wave events. She took out the first-ever women’s big wave contest at Nelscott Reef, Oregon, in 2010 and is known for riding one of the biggest barrels ever ridden by a female at Puerto Escondido in Mexico. Kennelly is also famous for sustaining one of the most horrific wipeouts in surfing history, slicing her face open after face planting the reef on the “Code Red” swell at Teahupoo. Maya Gabeira Another huge name in women’s big wave surfing. Maya Gabeira has been pushing what’s possible for the past decade. Maya, originally from Rio, moved to Australia and Hawaii to surf bigger, more perfect waves. She holds the Guinness world record for the biggest wave ever surfed – a 73ft mountain at Nazare. The ride happened just a few years after she almost drowned at the same spot. Maya has won multiple Billabong XXL awards and was the first woman to tackle Ghost Trees, Teahupoo, and Nazare—a true icon of female big wave surfing. Paige Alms You only have to pull up some Jaws clips to see Paige Alms crop up. Paige is one of the best female big wave riders and has had some of the best waves of all time at Jaws. She lives only minutes from Jaws, which many consider the best big wave in the world. Originally from Canada, Alms moved to the wave-rich island paradise of Maui aged 9. She would take to surfing quickly and eventually progress onto bigger and bigger waves–going on to collect multiple big wave accolades. She has been nominated for the WSL Ride of the Year award and Performer of the Year and took out the Women’s Big Wave World Tour in 2016. In 2023, she became one of the first women ever to surf in the iconic Eddie Aikau event at Waimea Bay. It’s also worth noting Paige, despite a few small sponsors, is mostly self-funded in her pursuit of big waves surfer, working odd jobs to chase swells and follow her passion. Justine Dupont Justine Dupont is a professional big-wave surfer from South West France. She surfs well in anything from 2ft to 20ft and beyond and is a leading figure in female big wave surfing. She was the first woman ever to surf Belharra in the Basque Country and is a repeated stand-out in big wave sessions. With a 2021 Ride of the Year award, Nazare Tow Challenge Title, XXL Performer of the Year award, and Women’s Performer at Mavericks award to her name, the accolades speak for themselves. She also rode one of the biggest waves ever ridden by a female back in 2022, with a massive tow wave tube at Jaws. Seriously, the thing is crazy, and I’d highly suggest checking it out here. Sarah Gerhardt Sarah Gerhart is an interesting figure in women’s big wave surfing and one of the few on our list who isn’t a professional surfer. Gerdhart is a chemistry teacher who … Read more

Bethany Hamilton: A Story of Surfing, Adversity & Inspiration

April 14, 2023by Luke Morris

Bethany Hamilton carving a wave with only one arm wearing best surf brands of all time as sponsors

The incredible story of a young Hawaiian surfer who lost her arm in a shark attack. There are few more inspiring stories in sport, let alone surfing, than that of Bethany Hamilton. A truly inspirational figure who’s experienced something more traumatic and overcome a challenge that most of us will never experience. But Bethany Hamilton hasn’t simply overcome a barrier but gone on to excel and compete with the world’s best, redefining what’s possible on a surfboard and pushing women’s surfing. Bethany’s remarkable story has been well documented in the mainstream media, with TV shows, books, and even a Hollywood movie, recreating her journey for the world to see. Today, we take a deeper dive into the life of Bethany, going beneath the surface into her story, from where she grew, how the fateful day played out, and what happened next. We’ll also explore her journey through a remarkable recovery, her return to competitive surfing, her personal life, the accolades she’s collected, and where Bethany is today. We’re in for a heck of a story, so grab a cuppa and let’s dive in! Growing up in Kuaui Bethany Meliani Hamilton was born in Kauai, Hawaii, on February 8, 1990. Kauai is a paradisical island with world-class waves, although you wouldn’t know it as the island remains an “underground spot,” and no filming is allowed there. The high wave quality and lack of crowds make it one of the best places on earth to grow up as a surfer. As a budding surfer, 13-year-old Bethany juggled school, free surfing, and competing in national surf contests. This was how things played out in Hawaii for any up-and-coming surf grom. Her best friend, an aspiring professional surfer, and model, Alana Blanchard, surfed with Beth regularly, and their families were tight friends. What the two families didn’t know was that on one day in October 2003, everything would change forever. The Shark Attack It began as any typical day would on Kauai’s north shore, an early rise, healthy breakfast, talking about where to surf, discussing conditions, and gathering up surf stuff. Tunnels Beach, known locally as Makua, would be the surf spot of choice on this particular day. Bethany, Alana, Alana’s father, and brother would all meet up that morning and, after the short drive out to the beach, waxed up and paddled out together. The waves are fun, in the 3-4ft range, and the four trade waves together. It’s a beautiful morning, and the vibe is happy, ecstatic even. There is a long lull, a gap in surfing where no waves come through, and the four surfers bob in the water, chatting while eagerly awaiting the next set. Bethany lies flat, stomach down on her surfboard, talking with Alana. Her arms are dangling off the rails of her surfboard, hanging in the water. As she’s talking, Bethany’s arm is gripped and pulled by an incredible force. A 14-foot tiger shark rises from her left side and locks its teeth around Betahny’s arm, ripping it off. The water turns red, and the Blanchard family scrambles to help Bethany. They help her paddle to shore, and on the sands of tunnels beach, Alana’s father fashions a tourniquet from a torn-up rash vest and leg rope. They jump in their truck and race to the hospital. As they’re driving, Bethany goes into hypovolemic shock, and the blood loss is severe. It’s said by the time Hamilton reached Wilcox Memorial Hospital, she had lost over 60% of her blood. As it happened, Bethany’s father was in the same hospital that morning, about to undergo knee surgery. But as his daughter is rushed into the building, he gives up his bed and postpones his surgery. Doctors save Bethany’s life, and after recovering for a short time in the hospital, she is taken home. After a few weeks, 13-year-old Bethany is already back in the water. The Recovery & Return to Surfing In an event that would put most off surfing for life, Bethany was surfing again just weeks after the attack. But returning to surfing certainly wasn’t a case of picking up where she left off. Instead, young Bethany would have to learn to surf again and adapt to using one arm—an incredible feat. The learning process involved changing how she popped up to her feet and attaching a handle to the board’s deck. Initially, she rode a longer, thicker board as she improved her new standing technique. Eventually, she returned to the performance shortboards she used in competition, pre-attack. This alone is a testament to her determination and will to overcome adversity. A challenge most would not overcome. However, Hamilton wasn’t content with simply getting back in the water. Instead, she went on to chase her professional surfing dream, competing with the world’s best women and becoming one of the most influential and inspiring surfers ever to walk the planet. The Hawaiian has an extensive list of accolades and competitive highlights to show this. Bethany’s Achievements and Accolades Bethany has competed on the world stage, battling it out with the best in the world in some of the best waves, many of them heavy waves of consequence. Bethany has appeared in and achieved impressive results in many international contests, including top-level WSL events: 2010: 9th place Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2010: 3rd place Women’s Fiji Pro 2011: 13th place Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach 2012: Rip Curl Cup Padang Padang invitee 2022: 9th place Billabong Pro Pipeline These are all notable achievements in waves of consequence. These events are held in waves that humble even the most hard-charging surfers in the world. Cloudbreak, a powerful freight train barrel in Fiji. Padang, a wide open tube in Bali. Supertubos, a thumping beachie in Portugal, and Pipeline, a wave that needs no introduction. These waves are no joke; anyone who competes at them is on a short list of surf talent. Bethany continues to show prowess in waves of this nature, most notably at Pipeline. During the 2022 … Read more

5 Best Costco Bodyboards + Size Guide

April 11, 2023by Luke Morris

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If you want to purchase the best bodyboard before you head out to the beach, here’s a comprehensive Costco bodyboard review. Costco are renowned for their broad selection of cheap bodyboards. Our review will help with your purchase, plus we’ve included a helpful bodyboard size guide to make sure you select the perfect bodyboard for your size, gender or shape! 5 Best Costco Bodyboards in Review Bodyboards come in a variety of styles, designs, and features. So, deciding which one to pick can be extremely difficult. However, it doesn’t have to be. If you don’t have enough time to browse through the entire article, here’s a summary of the top choices in our Costco bodyboards review. Mach 7 Bodyboard by Morey – Best Overall Costco Bodyboard Boogie Board by Lucky Bums – Most Durable Bodyboard Storm Bodyboard by BPS – Best for Summer Waters Dubb Pro Plus Bodyboard by Hubboards – Best for Dropknee Riding Titan XPE Bodyboard by Custom X – Best for Big Surfers 1. Mach 7 Bodyboard by Morey Features Stringers Large frame/ideal for 160 – 180 pounds Color choices Crescent tail The legendary Morey Mach Bodyboard has finally come to Costco, featuring a simplistic yet awesome design. It’s truly the best all-around board for all riders and is also one of the longest-lasting models in the industry. It’s no surprise that many bodyboarders have stuck to the Morey brand for decades. Now, let’s get to the details. The Mach 7 has a single power rod stringer through the middle of the board, allowing for impressive stability. It integrates a PE core and a crescent tail, making the bodyboard both flexible and easy to control in the water. Overall, this is our top pick for being a classic and being one of the most reliable boards today. 2. Boogie Board by Lucky Bums – Most Durable Bodyboard Features 60/40 Rails Comes with a leash and wrist strap Three different sizes Rear channels A close second to the Morey Mach, the Lucky Bums boogie board provides an awesome experience, and we recommend it especially for kids because it comes with a bodyboard leash. The board is constructed with an EPS Core in 3 sizes, and the 60/40 rails allow you to put on a show with some sick tricks. Along with the rear channels, you can easily grab onto the waves and learn how to turn. One of the things we love best about this boogie board is its extremely inexpensive design, which allows it to be one of the cheapest boards on the market. And despite that, the actual quality of the board is not affected. Other cheap boards use lower-quality foams, but you won’t find that with the Lucky Bums bodyboard. Next, the polyethylene bottom is perfect if you’re looking for a fast board, especially since it combines well with the light EPS core. With a lifelong warranty, you can be sure that Lucky Bums has got your back. 3. Storm Bodyboard by BPS – Best for Summer Waters Features Comes with a coiled leash and fin tethers EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) core Bottom rear channels Lightweight bottom surface Another titan in the bodyboard industry, BPS continues to innovate with its Storm Bodyboard. One of the lightest boards on the market, the Storm bodyboard with its slick bottom surface and crescent tails offers a superior performance to take on even the most challenging waves. This board comes with fin tethers to protect your fins from damage and its EPS core provides durability and flexibility during your rides. We can’t recommend the storm bodyboard enough for both beginners and experienced riders. You can be sure your board will be secure with a nice 12-month warranty. 4. Dubb Pro Plus Bodyboard by Hubboards – Best for Dropknee Riding Features Line contour deck Double or single stringer Graduated channels Full crescent tails with tails piece Nose and tail bumpers So, you must have been wondering when we would introduce the Hubboards bodyboard. Well, here we are. Don’t let the #4 deceive you because this trails just slightly below the above. Hubboards was created by Jeff and Dave Hubbard, having been bodyboarding for a large portion of their life. Together, they continually designed, innovated, and refined their boards, ultimately launching the bodyboard that would be known as the best for drop knee riding. If you’re not familiar, drop knee riding is one of the more difficult bodyboarding techniques to get down, and having a bad board makes learning it even more difficult. Hubboard’s wide crescent tail takes the weight at the back of the board and the non-slip deck allows for extra grip for your hands and knees. Now, for the construction. Like the previous boards, this board is made from polypropylene, making it lighter, stronger, and faster for your turns and tricks. Ultimately, the Dubb Pro Plus is your perfect board if you’re looking for a speedy board without compromising maneuverability. 5. Titan XPE Bodyboard by Custom X – Best for Big Surfers Features Double rails (50/50) Single stringer made of graphite Made for maximum wave time IXL cross-link deck Last but certainly not least is the Titan XPE board by Custom X. If you’re not already familiar with Custom X, they are known for making higher-end boards. This shouldn’t come as a surprise as they were originally started in 1995 and have been recognized as some of the best shapers in the past decades. They have a great professional team that oversees the manufacturing process, so you can be sure you won’t be getting a cheap Chinese-made board. These boards are also typically for bigger and heavier riders, so if you skew to that end, this will be perfect for you. Like the Hubboard’s Dubb Pro Plus, the Titan XPE is also great for drop knee riding. Another feature we wanted to highlight is the Surlyn bottom and graphite stringer, which increases the durability of the board without compromising speed. Moreover, the dual rails and channels help you to … Read more

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